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Everything posted by tomnagel

  1. The NFC antenna in the tag on Ultimaker materials is quite large. Most tags will not be picked up by the antenna in the spool holder. The tags are not protected, and can be rewritten. So start with an original Ultimaker tag and try to write it
  2. You will quickly wear out your printcore, but worse is that also your feeder wheel will wear out, which will harm the performance for all materials. For printing abrasive (filled) materials, you have to upgrade to an S3 or S5. These have hardened feeder wheels out of the box, and you’ll have to purchase a CC print core with a ruby nozzle.
  3. The newer firmware works with weak spring and with stiff spring. Replacing the spring is not necessary, but feel free to do so. The behavior you describe is of course not how it should be. You may want to reach out to your reseller, they will be able to help you. How is your bed positioned? I always make sure the bottom of the glass plate is slightly (0.5mm or so) higher than the top of the alu at the front. The screw on the back must be adjusted so that the bed is parallel to the gantry (I do that by manually raising the bed, and then manually move the printhead from front to back and making sure the nozzle / bed distance is equal) this procedure is seldomly necessary but the screws with the weaker springs may untighten themselves after some use
  4. That is really simple: put a sticker on the camera, and unplug the nfc reader on the back of your printer (that is the cable that runs to your spool holder).
  5. You can use the diagnostics menu to see what tags the NFC reader is detecting. If you install only the PLA spool on the printer, what does the diagnostics tell you?
  6. tomnagel

    S5 Active Level

    In firmware release 5.2, Active leveling has become a lot faster because only a part of the build plate is measured (the part that is printed upon)! Model-based active leveling. We've boosted the efficiency of active leveling on the Ultimaker S5. Instead of probing the entire build plate, only the footprint of the model is measured before a print starts. Disabled print cores are skipped to speed up the process. To make use of this feature, prints need to be prepared using Ultimaker Cura 4.0 or above.
  7. In my Cura 4 it is on by default,and I think it has already been for quite some time now. Could it be that you work with modified profiles, that are copied into new installations?
  8. So you try to move 1 inch, and the extruder actually moves 0.7 inch? So an error of 0.3 inch? and what happens when you try to move the extruder 2 inch? Is the error linear with the length of the move? I am asking because I don’t know a single cause that can influence the gain (stepspermm) without changing the hardware.
  9. @mark269, you say your Y-axis "is 7.62mm off". What exactly do you mean with that? If you have an (mechanically, and software-wise) unmodified UM2, using "steps per mm" to compensate for a dimensional error is not a good method. First of all, to be sure: with the Y direction, you mean front to back right? Could there be another reason that your Y dimension is not printing well? Is your printhead moving smooth if you move the printhead (by hand) around the buildplate surface? Are the shafts well oiled? Are the pulleys screwed tight to the shafts? Does the dimensional error scale with the size of your printed object?
  10. I recommend not to use just any glue stick, but the one supplied by Ultimaker. All glue sticks are not created equal. A lot of effort was put into testing, and the Uhu sticks came out best. I’m not saying other sticks don’t work as well, but i’m Sure there are other glue sticks who definitely perform worse.
  11. have you tried this? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clean-the-print-cores I have yet to see the first case where disassembly is necessary.
  12. I don't think so. The printers were operated normally, and there was a cooldown between printjobs. I don't think that a pause of a day between prints can cause issues other than PVA taking up moisture. PVA should print reliably, this is tested very thouroughly for years now. If not, let's find out why not. There enough people here who can help, and your reseller should be able to help you as well. Start with a clean BB nozzle, start with dry PVA filament, use Ultimaker filament, use Ultimaker Cura without changing printing parameters. If that does not work, please post pictures of what goes wrong.
  13. Under normal circumstances, it is absolutely not necessary to clean your BB nozzle every few days. We've done 2000h tests on 20 printers, with varying cleaning intervals. Our advice is to clean the BB nozzle after 400h of printing (hot and cold pulls). But even the few printers that printed the full 2000h without cleaning still printed fine. However, cleaning is very important after incidents like empty spool, or entangled filament or any other issue that keeps the BB nozzle hot without any material flow. The PVA then burns in the nozzle, and the nozzle will clog. (a print where there is a very small amount of PVA on each layer could also cause this) Of course this was all tested with Ultimaker PVA. Your mileage with other brands may vary. And @kmanstudios is right: keep your PVA dry.
  14. Dimensional accuracy is a difficult subject. There are many many causes for inaccuracy. Some causes depend on temperature, some on the printing process parameters, some are in the mechanical tolerances on parts etc. It is a topic that is being addressed within R&D, but I realise that does not help you now. I would not advise to adjust the scaling of X Y and Z. That is too big of a simplification, and afterwards when you print objects with other dimensions your calibration will not work, and possibly make things worse. My own experience is that often the inaccuracies are pretty reproducible. A 4 or 5mm big hole prints always 0.25mm smaller than in CAD. So I compensate for that in CAD. You say you have measured inaccuracies up to 1.5mm. That is pretty extreme, and indeed can make parts unusable. Can you share an example of that? An STL and actual measurements, and/or a photo?
  15. I believe that when no material is set for an extruder, the nozzle stays cold during the active leveling. But you should know that it is heated to flatten possible plastic remains below the nozzle. If those plastic remains are cold and hard, the outcome of the active leveling procedure will get an offset, causing the nozzle to be too high during printing.
  16. So the problem stayed with the same printer, after you switched the power supplies of 2 printers? And you are using original Ultimaker Print Cores? Than I think you should contact your reseller. Your problem reproduces and it seems like a heater is out of specification, causing the overloaded power supply.
  17. Temperatures to get good adhesion are about 10 degrees higher for aluminium than for glass. For example, PC has a bed temperature of 120°C with alu. UM2/3 cannot reach those temperatures because of power supply limitations.
  18. Hi gr5, An outer diameter of the spool (G) of 102mm? You mean 201mm?
  19. @cjs Sorry for going off-topic, but did you change the (material of) your bowden tubes? They look white instead of semi-transparent.
  20. @The_Rob did this error occur during printing, or somewhere in the warm-up phase? I assume it is the latter. You can then maybe avoid your power consumption problems by first manually pre-heating your printbed. When it is hot, it consumes less power since the electrical resistance of the copper traces of the bed heater has gone up.
  21. your fan bracket not closing properly might also be related to your problems with active leveling (other thread). The measurement pcb is located in this bracket, and when it moves during leveling, this will influence the results.
  22. temperatures used to be in those help articles. Maybe they took those out because the printer takes care of that when you follow the built in procedure (UM3 only) (printer also moves the print head into one of the corners, so you can't forget that as well) (edit: I didn't see the responses above)
  23. Hi @pfordmedia 35 degrees for a cold pull is too low. The material is much too hard to pull out, and will snap like you described. Please follow the instructions on this webpage.
  24. Please don't put words in my mouth. I mean my statement literally, and I don't mean to imply anything else. Users following my advice profit from thorough testing that takes place within Ultimaker. Users who make other choices have to find out stuff for themselves.
  25. Disassembly of your print core is not advised and never necessary. With hot pulls and cold pulls it is *always* possible to get your print core going again. Cold pulling with polycarbonate works extra good if you have that. please believe me: PVA printing is reliable on your UM3, if you stick to Cura profiles, UM material and keep ambient relative humidity below 50%.
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