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pauldutch

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  1. I swapped the cable pairs but left the order of each cable pair as they were.. Ie.. If from left to right the plug is: Red-Blue-Green-Black This will then become: Green-Black-Red-Blue..
  2. That's odd.. I am sure all of you have seen the new 3DS printers, the improved Cube and the CubeX. Both able to print ABS.. BUT.. no heated bed or enclosed chamber? From http://fabbaloo.com/blog/tag/3d-systems#.UPNV02-R949; "We asked 3D Systems Rajeev Kulkarni how the Cube can print ABS successfully when it no longer has a heated build platform? Why doesn't the ABS warp? Kulkarni explained they've changed the formulation of the plastic and combined with software changes ABS warp is reduced significantly. And the glue you apply to the print bed helps, too. " Anyone got any experience with the new Cibe printers to confirm warpage with ABS?? And what's in the CubeStick glue?
  3. Aj.. condolences.. Good work on Cura from you guys though!
  4. Aha! So front left corner eh? Yes, I'll try and rotate the model and see if that makes any difference. It would be really really handy if at least we can define a different area where to define the start area for all perimeters. But even better if we could tick it over a certain amount every layer so that no vertical line would be formed. So Skeinforge would have to integrate this for Cura to take over?
  5. Hi all, Loving Cura as it is very easy to use and lots of options to play with. What I was wondering though if there is a setting somewhere that lets you define the start of each perimeter line. I have an issue whereby the stacked start and ends of the perimeter lines form a vertical line through the part on a seen face. Is there any way to move this start point to a defined area? Thanks!
  6. Thanks guys for the feedback! Yesterday I have swapped my stepper motors to the outside of the UM and it is working fine. I have swapped the pairs of wires around as suggested and it works perfectly. The wires to the connector are easy to push out and in again, so permanent swapping is no problem. Today or tomorrow my heated bed will show up that I bought from Ebay and in the meantime I will enclose the sides and figure out what power supply to use for the heated bed. In essence it will have upgraded the UM to be similar to the MB replicator 2X without too much extra effort.
  7. Cheers Guys for your feedback. I will try and swap the wires. The firmware update seems easier, but will have to remind myself to do it every time I update firmware. This patent of Stratasys is a good guide when building a heated build chamber: http://www.google.com/patents/US6722872 It says that the heated chamber really should be between 70-90 degC for ABS and all the steppers etc should be outside of it. I reckon that the uM is idealy made to convert to this, apart from the structure being made of wood. Just swap the motors to the outside and all that is really left is to make sure that the bowden tube gets cooled. Perhaps wrapping insulation around it plus blowing cooler air into the tube would work. Ideally the PCB underneath should be transferred to the back with some insulation in between. Quick fix obviously is a heated bed, but seems to me that that is only half of the solution..
  8. Aha! Thanks Joergen for your input. So just a straight swap? Does it matter if the order of the wires in the pairs are swapped?
  9. People, Over the last while I have researched how "professional" FDM printers prevent warpage and they all seem to prefer the "heated build chamber" approach. Now, I know that Stratasys hold the patent for it (How they got approved such a generic beats me..) and I think that that is the reason why people stay away from it. But I do think that best results are achieved with a heated build chamber so I'd like to incorporate it in my UM. I reckon that cooling off layers with a fan as they get built is counter productive. It is a bad fix to make up for not having a proper support material. Since my UM has dual extrusion I think the Heated Chamber is the way to go. A support material fixes the overhang and bridging issues where a fan would be needed otherwise. A cooling fan only makes warping worse. To heat the Build Chamber I'd need to flip the XY stepper motor to sit outside the build chamber otherwise they'd get too hot. It seems to be an easy exercise, but if flipped they run the axis opposite towards where they would normally go. Does anyone here have an easy solution to swapping the motor direction? Ie. which wires would I have to swap around? The extruder motor in an UM luckily is already outside the chamber. Only issue would be to try and cool the Bowden Tube to prevent the filament from softening. A secondary sleeve with blown cool air should do the trick.
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