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Everything posted by czucker

  1. You're correct, correct and correct. . . . I went ahead and got a larger stepper (Amazon Link) but, I'm actually finding that when the heated bed gets to a certain point, the stepper is heating up way too much. I'm going to give your mount a go. . . . I'm a bit unclear on the fan silencers though. Where are you using them? Thanks! Chris
  2. Just a note on this. After moving my XY steppers to the outside of my UM, I was able mount my extruder motor inside the enclosure, removing the need for the external mount. All I had to do was print a 4mm Nema 17 plate to overcome the lip on the UM, so that the feeder was able to open. I'm using the original stepper with good results. The printer is much, much quieter and more stable.
  3. That's interesting. I didn't realize that this was the expected behavior of the UM2. My UM, with the larger lead screw was always pretty solid with or without the motors powered. For bed leveling, I guess the solution is to just make sure my motors are on. Thanks Jonny.
  4. I went ahead and cobbled together my own UM2 style build platform to use with my existing heated bed. I purchased an aluminum platform, an 8mm 4 start lead screw and nut and the appropriate bearings (LMK12LUU). Everything works perfectly, except for one small and really irritating snag. . . . When the Z motor is off, the platform has a tendency to slide all the way down on its own. This doesn't effect my prints, but it can be really annoying when trying to level my bed. Anyone have any thoughts on a solution? Thanks, Chris
  5. Okay, got it. I didn't realize that about the UM2. That makes more sense. Thanks a lot for walking me through this. I was even able to find a 4 start rod and nut to match the UM2. So it'll be 200*8/8 (or just plain old 200).
  6. Thanks for the replies. . . . I'm a touch confused though. So far as I can tell, since I'm not changing the stepper motor all that is changing is the screw pitch (and diameter). It is going from 3mm to 2mm. Wouldn't that mean I need to enter 200.0*8/2?
  7. Hi, I am in the process of cobbling together an Ultimaker2 build platform for my UM Original. I've been able to find the aluminum plate and linear bearings. However, it seems that I'm going to have to switch to an 8mm 2mm pitch lead screw like on the UM2. Can anyone help me out with the settings that I will need to change in the firmware? Is it as simple as changing the steps/mm from 200.0*8/3 (UM Original) to 200 (UM2)? I've looked through the configuration.h file and I'm not really sure what I'm looking for. Thanks, Chris
  8. So, just an update here. Whatever it is that I did yo my UM board, it seems to be damaging the Mega 2560. I can no longer connect to the one that came with my UM via Cura or the Arduino IDE. I was able to flash firmware to a spare Arduino, but as soon as I hooked it up and turned the printer on, it also lost it's ability to communicate via USB. . . .
  9. Hi Daid, I've tried so, so many times. Still times out. . . . Is there a log somewhere that I can send that would be helpful to you? Or, maybe an older version of Cura that this doesn't happen with? I've now tried on both a mac (10.9) and a Windows box (Win 8). I'm going to try on an old 10.6.8 mac today. . . .
  10. I'm having this problem currently, using Cura 14.09. Is there any solution to this that doesn't require magic? Best, Chris
  11. Wearing. . . .Wearing. Stupid predictive text correction. It is indeed a thermistor on the hot end. And I have a home built heated bed upgrade. Buit everything was working just fine until last night. However, I get a reading of 130º with absolutely nothing plugged in to the board beyond the ulticontroller. I'm also finding that Cura times out when trying to upload firmware. . . . . I'm kind of at a loss. . . .
  12. It's the Printrbot hot end. No board prior to the UM board. I'm kind to refresh an see what happens. By the way, we met briefly at Maker Faire, no? I was eating a navy ball cap. Spoke about the new build platform. . .
  13. Sorry, I was unclear. I was fiddling with the wires at the print head. And, it's an Ultimaker original. It did cycle power by itself at one point. I'm wondering if maybe the firmware went back to factory. Is that possible? It does read 0 degrees if I pull the 4.7k resistor on the um board.
  14. Or, is that the expected reading without the ubis temp sensor attached? Perhaps I hosed that?
  15. My hot end (UBIS ceramic) stopped working today and I was trying to jiggle the wires a bit to see if I could get it working (more on that in another post). Then I heard a pop, powered down the UM, and powered it back on. Now, it's reading 130º without the hot end even attached. I'm guessing I blew something on the board, but I don't know where to look. Any thoughts? Thanks, Chris
  16. Yeah, I guess that's the rub, huh? I suppose I just wish it were different. The competition in the 3D printer market seems to be growing at a very fast pace these days. I'd love to see UM do well. The product is outstanding.
  17. In the U.S. you can buy MakerBots in a few corporarte stores, B&H photo in NYC just opened a store within a store and Microsoft stores now carry them. You can get Afinia printers at Radioshack. Where, as of an article that I read the AM, will also be selling Printrbots. I love my UM original and really feel that with the introduction of the UM2 they have the polish to be very competitive. I would love to see a slightly more aggressive general marketing push. Maybe some units in stores at least for display. . . Just my 2¢.
  18. Good Call! I didn't even think to check that. I never did change the print head size in the machine settings when I popped the UBIS on. My gut tells me that this is the problem.
  19. No short pulleys in my setup. I went direct drive on the motors. I will check the set screws on the couplers though. Out of curiosity, is there any reason not to use a little dab of locktite on the set screws to avoid things like this in the future?
  20. I'm having a very odd problem in the past 2 days. It seems that when I print multiple objects, the first layer shifts after the brim is printed. You can see what I'm talking about in the attached photo. The first object (right) printed just fine, but the second (left) shifted after the brim finished. I'm printing via OctoPrint from my Raspberry Pi. . . . I saw that people have had similar issues that may have been cleared up after reflashing firmware. I'll give that a shot tonight, but in the meantime, anyone have any thoughts? Best, Chris
  21. Late Spring sounds good to me. After this winter, I almost forgot about the summers here.
  22. Oh nice! I'm in Brooklyn as well. Born and raised. Anyone feel like putting together some sort of meet up sometime over the spring/summer?
  23. So, I'm wondering how many of us are in NYC?
  24. I'm a very busy man! But seriously, I'm up in Vancouver for a few days, so I'm not near my printer. I'll be home by the end of the week and should have the proper transistor in hand. Thanks a million for the very detailed response. Oh, one more thing. I'm curious about whether or not the TIP120 would be a suitable replacement if I ever have an issue in the future. They're readily available off the shelf. Thanks, Chris
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