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Posts posted by czucker

  1. You're correct, correct and correct. . . .

    I went ahead and got a larger stepper (Amazon Link) but, I'm actually finding that when the heated bed gets to a certain point, the stepper is heating up way too much.

    I'm going to give your mount a go. . . . I'm a bit unclear on the fan silencers though. Where are you using them?





    I also did that at first (since my rods are also direct driven) but some of the downsides are (in my eyes):


    1. you lose another side to which you can flip the ultimaker when you need access to the electronics
    2. it requires direct driven rods
    3. the entry angle of the filament
    4. it's more noisy than the damped version on the outside
    5. the bowden tube is maybe a bit too short since the distance between feeder and hotend is longer
    6. whats about dual extrusion?


    I also thought about possible solutions then:


    1. to mirror the feeder design and flatten the protruding side a bit
    2. well, I like the direct driven rods... :D
    3. design some filament guides like for the UM2
    4. it should be possible to integrate dampers to the mounting plate
    5. i didn't really faced problems here, but a longer tube should fix that
    6. you could maybe drill a new hole or something like that but i always like the possibility to change everything back "as it was" (i.e. if you realize that a design doesnt work as it should). I didn't found a good solution and that's the reason why i did the design above ;)


    furthermore you say the quality is still "good" with the original stepper...

    i also thought like that at first but then, while printing really high quality prints (0.6 layer height at around 30mm/s), i recognized a "rough" surface. Some of the developers of Ultimaker confirmed that in an google-group discussion. To avoid problems in the future i would really recommend an 0.9° stepper (or maybe one of foehnsturms trials here in the forum: flexible shaft/direct extruder at the printhead).


  2. I went ahead and cobbled together my own UM2 style build platform to use with my existing heated bed.

    I purchased an aluminum platform, an 8mm 4 start lead screw and nut and the appropriate bearings (LMK12LUU).

    Everything works perfectly, except for one small and really irritating snag. . . .

    When the Z motor is off, the platform has a tendency to slide all the way down on its own. This doesn't effect my prints, but it can be really annoying when trying to level my bed.

    Anyone have any thoughts on a solution?



  3. Okay, got it. I didn't realize that about the UM2. That makes more sense.

    Thanks a lot for walking me through this. I was even able to find a 4 start rod and nut to match the UM2.

    So it'll be 200*8/8 (or just plain old 200).


  4. Thanks for the replies. . . . I'm a touch confused though.

    So far as I can tell, since I'm not changing the stepper motor all that is changing is the screw pitch (and diameter). It is going from 3mm to 2mm.

    Wouldn't that mean I need to enter 200.0*8/2?


  5. Hi,

    I am in the process of cobbling together an Ultimaker2 build platform for my UM Original.

    I've been able to find the aluminum plate and linear bearings.

    However, it seems that I'm going to have to switch to an 8mm 2mm pitch lead screw like on the UM2.

    Can anyone help me out with the settings that I will need to change in the firmware?

    Is it as simple as changing the steps/mm from 200.0*8/3 (UM Original) to 200 (UM2)?

    I've looked through the configuration.h file and I'm not really sure what I'm looking for.




  6. So, just an update here. Whatever it is that I did yo my UM board, it seems to be damaging the Mega 2560.

    I can no longer connect to the one that came with my UM via Cura or the Arduino IDE.

    I was able to flash firmware to a spare Arduino, but as soon as I hooked it up and turned the printer on, it also lost it's ability to communicate via USB. . . .


  7. Wearing. . . .Wearing. Stupid predictive text correction.

    It is indeed a thermistor on the hot end. And I have a home built heated bed upgrade. Buit everything was working just fine until last night.

    However, I get a reading of 130º with absolutely nothing plugged in to the board beyond the ulticontroller.

    I'm also finding that Cura times out when trying to upload firmware. . . . . I'm kind of at a loss. . . .


  8. Sorry, I was unclear. I was fiddling with the wires at the print head. And, it's an Ultimaker original.

    It did cycle power by itself at one point. I'm wondering if maybe the firmware went back to factory. Is that possible? It does read 0 degrees if I pull the 4.7k resistor on the um board.

  9. My hot end (UBIS ceramic) stopped working today and I was trying to jiggle the wires a bit to see if I could get it working (more on that in another post).

    Then I heard a pop, powered down the UM, and powered it back on.

    Now, it's reading 130º without the hot end even attached.

    I'm guessing I blew something on the board, but I don't know where to look.

    Any thoughts?




  10. In the U.S. you can buy MakerBots in a few corporarte stores, B&H photo in NYC just opened a store within a store and Microsoft stores now carry them.

    You can get Afinia printers at Radioshack. Where, as of an article that I read the AM, will also be selling Printrbots.

    I love my UM original and really feel that with the introduction of the UM2 they have the polish to be very competitive.

    I would love to see a slightly more aggressive general marketing push. Maybe some units in stores at least for display. . .

    Just my 2¢.


  11. Are you sure the fan isn't catching on the first print under some circumstances. I mean I know it got the brim down ok, but based on the photo at least, it looks like it would be pretty tight to fit the fan into the gap between the parts?


    Good Call! I didn't even think to check that. I never did change the print head size in the machine settings when I popped the UBIS on.

    My gut tells me that this is the problem.


  12. No short pulleys in my setup. I went direct drive on the motors. I will check the set screws on the couplers though.

    Out of curiosity, is there any reason not to use a little dab of locktite on the set screws to avoid things like this in the future?


  13. I'm having a very odd problem in the past 2 days.

    It seems that when I print multiple objects, the first layer shifts after the brim is printed. You can see what I'm talking about in the attached photo.

    The first object (right) printed just fine, but the second (left) shifted after the brim finished.

    I'm printing via OctoPrint from my Raspberry Pi. . . .

    I saw that people have had similar issues that may have been cleared up after reflashing firmware.

    I'll give that a shot tonight, but in the meantime, anyone have any thoughts?



    Y Offset


  14. 2 days later he says...


    I'm a very busy man!

    But seriously, I'm up in Vancouver for a few days, so I'm not near my printer. I'll be home by the end of the week and should have the proper transistor in hand.

    Thanks a million for the very detailed response.

    Oh, one more thing. I'm curious about whether or not the TIP120 would be a suitable replacement if I ever have an issue in the future. They're readily available off the shelf.



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