magicxman

Albert, I tried this method earlier and the reason why I am going for printing one object at a time is to prevent ruining the whole batch if one object failed. By printing one at a time, I can still salvage the rest by discarding only the spoilt one. Regarding slicing different profiles in one batch, project planner is able to slice them and print them either by together.

Sanjay, I have just placed an order for a 3mm DIY kit. I am from Singapore and looking forward to try out your design on my Ultimaker. My Ultimaker is enclosed in a chamber like setup, with side walls covered up as well as the top and heated bed. Temperature in the chamber is quite consistent except I have a small fan to move the hot air around above when the bowden tube is.

Thanks gr5 and Daid. Here is my results based on gcode given by Daid. I noticed that there are some residue before start of each object. Could it be that the retraction is not enough?

I have a job which need to print many small parts, up to 20 parts per print. I tried to use project planner printing of one object at a time, print head will return to origin and ooze out much plastics. Is there anyway to use retraction and move the bed up again with minimum head movement?

Thanks for the tips. I have managed to compile, run and package successfully on 10.8. Hope fully this helps. Follow the instructions in github Daid/Cura on OSX section. After that, try to run cura with pythonw -m Cura.cura as per Daid's advice above. Then there may be errors and try to install the missing modules: easy_install pyobjc-core easy_install pyobjc pip install numpy pip install PyOpenGL PyOpenGL_accelerate pip install pyserial pip install power Finally, Cura should be able to be executed finely. Then only package it with ./package.sh darwin.

Thanks. I encountered another error: ImportError: No module named objc

I am trying to compile latest github pull of Cura on 10.8.3 OSX and managed to setup the environment as well as package the .dmg file. The only problem is that after I installed the .dmg file which I packaged earlier, I tried to run Cura. Cura quits immediately. When I try to run cura.py using pythonw, the following error appears: File "cura.py", line 15, in <module> from Cura.util import profile ImportError: No module named Cura.util Anyone can help?

I noticed that when using different slicer to slice same parts, the printing 'music' or noise generated from the motor is different. Some slicers generated lesser noise. Does anyone encounter this? If so, let's poll which slicer generate least noise.

Agreed, Bob. I do noticed the same with Cura. That's the reason I looked into Kisslicer to get better improvement on surface quality. After getting pass the UI, I managed to get better quality prints especially on the edges and surfaces.

No sure why. Maybe only temporary as there is a new firmware release in the making.

Is there anyway to revert back the manual placement function in project planner? I have a heated bed which is smaller than ultimaker default bed. It is only 20x20cm and auto-placement will place some parts out of my bed printable area.

Great. I will continue to use Cura and will wait patiently for the good news. Hope this new slicer will be more efficient for multiple parts print as sometimes Cura tends to take longer route to print next object. This happens when you print more than 4 parts on single file. It supposed to router to the next part instead it went to farther part and came back to the next object after completion of the farther part.

Does anyone know the difference between Cura and Kisslicer? Which produces better results for what kind of print? I googled around and there are different opinions on the results of the prints. Of course, Cura is easier to use but to achieve better results, I would like to know when to use which slicer. Anyone can help?

I have the same issue earlier and I resort to download from github/ultimaker/marlin to build it manually. You need to uncomment the #define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING or #define PIDTEMPBED depending on if you are using a relay or MOSFET to control your bed. Also, don't forget to uncomment the #define ULTICONTROLLER and TEMP_SENSOR_BED to enable the temperature monitoring.

I have found out the problem and it is due to the firmware. Need to get the firmware from source/github/Ultimaker/marlin and modify the define file. Configuration.h has changed as some of the things have been moved to Configuration_adv.h. Make sure the defines like BED_LIMIT_SWITCH is uncommented as well as TEMP_SENSOR_BED set to 1 or 6 depending on thermistor type. Normally 1 is good enough for most 100k thermistor. Use Arduino IDE to compile and upload the firmware to the Ultimaker.

I have recently installed a heated bed using MK2 PBC on Ultimaker. Now wanted to monitor the temperature of the heated bed on Ulticontroller. I compiled Marlin using Daid's Marlin builder and enabled heated bed temperature sensor according to the thermistor I used. I tested the bed temperature reading with Printrun and able to see the temperature accurately. But the temperature is not displayed on Ulticontroller. What is the settings required to see this temperature on Ulticontroller? I did google around and most mentioned nothing much required to be done and the temperature will be displayed automatically. Is there any other settings need to be done? I hope someone can help me.

John, it is possible that you post a picture of your heated bed setup. It will be great help. Thanks a lot.

Thanks John, your method sounds good so I can use the software to monitor the temperature and connect the sensor to the board directly. For the relay to work, it will be an external power source to power up the MK2 heater board. Is this the correct setup? What is the voltage required to trigger the relay?

John, thanks for sharing. This is very useful. I have ordered a MK2 thermal board and glass on Ebay as well as PID temperature controller to monitor my control my bed temperature with an external power supply. The reason of doing it independent of ultimaker board is because I am afraid it will disturb my Ultimaker board and causing power drain or to prevent something blow up. I hope this comes out well. Will update again.

I will like to print using ABS but till now, still don't know where to start. I am still practicing and fine tuning my PLA prints and not sure should go the direction of setting up heated bed for ABS print. Can anyone point me to the direction of which is the best setup for heated bed as from various posts in Google groups as well as blogs, some says aluminium bed is better than glass bed while some others mentioned otherwise. I do wish that we can have official Ultimaker heated bed upgrade. Meanwhile, really good if everyone can post their setup and settings for ABS printing in this post.

Thanks, Joergen. I did managed to find info about ABS on ultimaker but nothing much about the actual print settings but more on how to change to heated platform and etc. I guess I need to try it myself and learn through experience as there is no quick setup guide or some tutorials where I can follow. BTW, I am new to 3D printing and have not upgrade my platform to heated one, maybe will do in future. I think the advise given by you is very good for me to use a guideline. This is the kind of information I need. If anyone can tell us their experience and techniques on printing on non-heated bed, either using raft or not, it will be good. Thanks a lot.

My project requires me to print purely on ABS using Ultimaker but I cannot find enough information to use ABS on Ultimaker. Furthermore, do need pre-heated bed mods or I can just print with raft on blue tape? Please advise.