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Everything posted by phanc60844

  1. I take it that 13.10 has an upgrade for dual extrusion? so as i cant get 13.10 to work, there is no point in me upgrading? is there another program I could use that would allow dual extrusion? Paul
  2. Daid, I removed the file and it made no difference. the print window just opens up empty and it sits there. If i click on it ,it comes up as not responding. looks like I'm sticking with 12.11 Paul
  3. Daid, I really struggle to get any build after 12.11 to work properly. I tried 13.04 last night with the stock settings and the extruder seamed to run way too slow ,the print ended up looking like a fishing net instead of being solid. Yet 12.11 works straight away with no tweaking required at all. The only problem I've had with 12.11 is that sometimes when I upscale a model, it returns an error 'something went wrong with the slicing' , or something similar Paul
  4. I've just upgraded to 13.10 (win xp) and loaded a model that worked on previous versions. When i press print all I get is an empty window titled 'printing' and nothing else. I'm not sure if its just hung or if its doing something in the background. I've retried it with some other models and I get the same issue. If I return back to a previous version (12.11) it prints OK, any ideas???? paul
  5. They are designed around expensive machines because they deliver parts that are of retailable quality. The makerbot machines are nothing more than a version of the reprap machines ,designs of which are freely available. Given the expertise that Stratasys obviously have ,it wouldnt take much to advance the machine way more than the user base ever could. so really I would value the product really low as the user base is very low, the amount of users on Thingiverse is masive though. The advertising potential is huge and these days it seems that it is far easier to let a website rake in the cash t
  6. The items are grouped together so I would say that its not unreasonable to check that you have the main groups available before you start. You dont have to check it down to the last nut and bolt before you start ,i would say that you are more likely to loose something that way. As for complaining over a year after receiving the item, I'm inclined to go with Ultimaker on that one. As for the T's& C's that Daid has pointed out, they also say that they don't guarantee electronic components. Well if anyone does have issues with their electronics it would be worth pointing out to them that as a
  7. Stratasys could easily make their own version of the makerbot machine ,if they wanted too. More likely is that they just want the website as they could turn it into the 3D printing world version of Facebook. Paul
  8. Although my issue wasn't quite the same ,just try removing the arduino from the main board ,then try to establish comms and download the current firmware. Replace the arduino on the main board (carefully as others have fried components when the arduino wasnt connected to the correct pins) and then see if you can see the device. Paul
  9. Im getting similar problems which was improved slightly by turning off the fan. Im still unable to print anything which is wide and thin (thingiverse fan cover) as the bottom layers just curl off the bed after 2-3 layers. I've been extruding at 25-260C bed temp 85-95C. Paul
  10. Try an older version of Cura ,I get loads of comms errors with 13.04, I went back to 12.** and no issues, I don't use anything else now. Paul
  11. would it be possible to automatically reduce the print speed on tall thin objects? If I try to print something tall then invariably I have to gradually reduce the speed as the height increases otherwise the print either wobbles and falls over or is knocked off the table by the nozzle. Reducing the speed part way through means I cant leave the machine alone or to start it off on a very slow speed and leave it at that. You could have a box where you could either input a minimum base size or a % ratio of base to height. Then another box for the % reduction in speed that you would want the print t
  12. Mine appeared to pack in once when I had caused a short on the nozzle heater connections on the main board. I unplugged it from the mains and kept retrying it every 10 minutes. It took 4 hours to reset by which time I'd already ordered a spare from eBay. The lesson here is to be not to hasty ,give it time Paul
  13. Bill, I don't think that you can count the cost of replacing parts as I recall in your case, some of that was down to how it was put together or used? but not only that, most people can get the machine to print straight away with few or no issues so I think that to say that costs are similar is stretching the truth just a tad. Paul
  14. Trim the tube and try again, if the fitting gives way with a sharp tug, I wound say either the tube is still damaged (possibly undersized but unlikely) or the fitting is damaged. paul
  15. Have you tried giving the tube a sharp pull after fitting to engage the grips inside the fitting? please bear in mind that if the tube has pulled out already, the tube will probably be damaged and will have to be trimmed back to fresh material paul
  16. either you bent the rods that support the extruder or the bed is bent. fix a glass sheet to the bed and use a piece of paper to gauge the nozzle height across the full extent of the bed. it cant be the x,y axes as they would move the extruder up/down every revolution, more likely one of the extruder support rods is out. you could remove them and roll them over the glass that you checked the bed with. Paul
  17. Fair enough if you are printing something to sell on but the print quality of the Ultimaker is far below what I would expect of a commercial machine so I certainly will never pay for the right to print a model. If it ever gets to the point where I have no choice then I will either draw my own or the machine goes. Why is it that when something good comes along, someone has to ruin it by commercializing it? Sky has done it with TV coverage of football and Formula One ,now someone is trying it on in the 3D community, please leave alone! Just my 2 pence worth. Paul
  18. As long as there are sites such as thingverse, I will never pay for the right to print a model. paul
  19. I don't think it matters too much just as long as they nor the belts dont foul anything.The pulleys are too close to the bearings to worry about bending moments.I just let the pulleys run loose over the rods while I moved the head around the table a few times, the pulleys just found their own position and I locked them at that. Paul
  20. instructions? they are only for people who dont know what they are doing :ugeek: paul
  21. But do you have to pay $30 to download it????? not so cool now Paul
  22. Does it work with the UC disconnected? If it does it must be a fault with the UC, otherwise check the voltage on the main board from the power supply, could be low?????? paul
  23. Is your nozzle digging into the bed? This causes excess pressure in the nozzle which can cause the tube to pop off ,make sure there is a paper thickness gap between the nozzle and bed. paul
  24. How are you leveling it? are you using piece of paper to gauge the nozzle height? are you making sure that at one of the bed screws is raised above the bed to prevent fouling and are setting that one last? are you checking that the bed is free to float on the springs and is not binding/fouling? are you going around the bed at least twice as any adjustment on one screw affects the setting on every corner. without being there to see ,its difficult to know for sure. Paul
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