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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

coen

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  • Country
    NL
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    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  1. To check how off-center my pulleys were I took the complete x-y gantry apart and after measuring the puleys put it back together again (as I was waiting for a GT2 pulley/belt order from China to be shipped). This strangely also solved my clicking problem... Not an outcome you would want as I still can't pinpoint the exacty cause... but rebuilding the gantry and maybe swapping around some pulleys can certainly fix the problem.
  2. Glad to see some improvements happening. Probably noted already: * when you hit 'edit post' scroll to the edit field instead of staying focused on the post like nothing happened. * What's the 'display as thumbnail' checkmark doing in the image upload section? If I don't click it I'm not allowed to select the image, so why bother having a checkmark?
  3. Well, I've finally found some time to work on the drone again... to design the outside of the drone... I guess it's finished, if you guys don't have any remarks that is. A few suggestions: 'it's way too tight, create some space to fit stuff in!' 'The legs are too small, you'll snap those off!' 'And my first proper investigation: Move the motors higher up, you'll sink!' Somewhere next week the gnarly job of subdividing it into 3D-printable parts starts. That means choosing printing orientations, bottom planes, hollowing the parts out, creating mounts, etc, etc. Lots of work, but it's
  4. After reading through the pulleys thread fully I decided to go for a GT2 pulley/belt system as an upgrade to fix this issue. As that needs new printer parts I firstly reassembled my printer. First results: the clicking sound that had been plagueing it before is gone . Print quality also is nice, but I am yet to print a full surface to see if the infill issue has been reduced or not (adjusted belt tensions too). The major find however: there is a major offcentre issue visible on the pulley on my y-driving stepper... as well as that on some pulleys the screws push the pulleys offcenter too. So
  5. Idem here... not part of beta group, so I'm assuming someone ticked a box that is now sending e-mail out to all users who ever liked a post... nice. :(
  6. The diameter of pulley+belt is 13.7mm, times pi gives 43mm, which is rather perfectly in the range of the spacing issue... I'll inspect the pulleys to see if I can see anything on them from the outside. Do you know if Ultimaker has since upgraded them? I've seen a topic on the forum about custom wellcentered pulleys... I'd rather order those then get a new crooked batch from UM... here's the custom pulley thread: http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/4110-top-quality-pulleys-what-do-you-think-is-an-appropriate-price
  7. A small project that pales in comparison to the great work that was recently posted... Two gifts for the wedding of a friend of mine. They asked for money for new tableware... but yeah who gives that when you can 3D print. I stole the logo from their invitations, and due to some issues with the 3D printer a lot of putty was involved in achieving the final finish (which still has some 'personality'). You can see the issue thread to see the before putty pictures...
  8. The wedding already took place... I gave the plates with bad infill and asked to get them back after to fix them up properly... so I'm now working with Putty... Thicker layers don't help, it will just add more layers with holes in them... flow helps a little bit, but then the regions that have proper infill now get 'plowing marks'. These could be sanded down, but yeah :( As for the rods: I took them to work today and rolled them on a granite block... they're perfectly straight.... that leaves the pulleys or some other issue as the possible cause... Suggestions welcome!
  9. mmmm.... it's pretty hard to judge whether the rods are curved or not. I can see a small airgap when I roll em on the table or put the on a ruler... but you would expect this gap to change in size if they are curved and you roll them, but this does not happen, or at least not in a way that I can see it. I don't have a flat table available hear, but I might take them to work to check it out... what's the best way to test them for curvedness? I can try putting them in a drill and then checking at higher speeds?
  10. Thanks! But I can't take credit for the logo, I copied it from the invitation :-). I actually replaced the tape between printing the square tray and the plate. The plate has a very large flat surface and I was worried about how ugly it would be with all the cracks and holes ;-). So this sadly couldn't be it, as the issue didn't improve between the two prints. It is kind of hollow, both in x and y. Only very slightly, if I press down on the ruler it sinks into the tape and the light disappears. Yesterday I tried printing a full size flat object but without filament to check
  11. Sorry for the long radio-silence... parts are in! However, I've also landed a new job and girlfriend... so designing and building the multicopter has been moved to the evening hours/weekends :(. It'll probably be somewhere in August that I make some progress. How are you guys doing? Flying?
  12. After many (3) years of semi-reliable service my Ultimaker Original has now developed a problem (or it has become more apparent) that I can't seem to fix. I was printing a wedding gift for friends of mine: a plate with their initials. In this large flat object a regular banding became apparent: good infill, bad infill, good infill, bad infill, roughly in y-direction. This effect shows from the bottom layer, to the top, and also through the whole prints. Pictures tell a thousands words, so without further ado, here's a complete novel (apologies for the coordinate direction not being the same i
  13. Same problem on this Ultimaker original. Every since the beginning (sep 2012). The guys at Protospace didn't know what to make of it, they replaced the bearings, but that didn't change the sound. I'm at the point of taking it apart completely as I am having some other issues too... I'm suspecting banana rods too. However, with regard to the clicking sounds: I've always suspected them to be caused by the wooden parts moving ever so slightly within the lasercut slots: the frame is constructed in a way that it enhances sound (acoustic guitar anyone? ;-)), so that might have to do with it?
  14. Well, in the end I did go for the Turnigy 9XR Pro as well... the Taranis only comes via HK global warehouse currently, which demands a huge payment in shipping (€50,-!), with the added risk of 20% customs surcharge and €14,- administration cost... with all that calculated in it actually becomes a lot more expensive than the Pro with FrSky D8-IIR telemetry set. For pricing reasons I also ordered some parts from RCTimer... which actually only asks for $2,- shipping... very strange... well, we'll see, it will probably take a lot longer too. You're actually referring to the exact same table
  15. Good to hear from you again MrWong, and nice pictures! Where's the inflight vid? ;-) Thanks for the advice... it looks like I won't be able to order all parts from one HK warehouse anyway, so I'll probably get a Taranis or 9XR... the nice thing of the Taranis is that I"ll have built-in telemetry immediately... will investigate a little further, but good to hear that you're happy with 9XR. People on fora were saying that the Taranis gives a lot more bang for a little more buck compared to 9XR. Did you consider Taranis at all? As I'm moving towards finalizing the orders I'm getting close to th
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