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About coen

  • Birthday 01/27/1982

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  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original
  1. To check how off-center my pulleys were I took the complete x-y gantry apart and after measuring the puleys put it back together again (as I was waiting for a GT2 pulley/belt order from China to be shipped). This strangely also solved my clicking problem... Not an outcome you would want as I still can't pinpoint the exacty cause... but rebuilding the gantry and maybe swapping around some pulleys can certainly fix the problem.
  2. Glad to see some improvements happening. Probably noted already: * when you hit 'edit post' scroll to the edit field instead of staying focused on the post like nothing happened. * What's the 'display as thumbnail' checkmark doing in the image upload section? If I don't click it I'm not allowed to select the image, so why bother having a checkmark?
  3. Well, I've finally found some time to work on the drone again... to design the outside of the drone... I guess it's finished, if you guys don't have any remarks that is. A few suggestions: 'it's way too tight, create some space to fit stuff in!' 'The legs are too small, you'll snap those off!' 'And my first proper investigation: Move the motors higher up, you'll sink!' Somewhere next week the gnarly job of subdividing it into 3D-printable parts starts. That means choosing printing orientations, bottom planes, hollowing the parts out, creating mounts, etc, etc. Lots of work, but it's great to make some progress again. How's it going with you guys? Any new designs? crashed drones? Working on other stuff?
  4. After reading through the pulleys thread fully I decided to go for a GT2 pulley/belt system as an upgrade to fix this issue. As that needs new printer parts I firstly reassembled my printer. First results: the clicking sound that had been plagueing it before is gone . Print quality also is nice, but I am yet to print a full surface to see if the infill issue has been reduced or not (adjusted belt tensions too). The major find however: there is a major offcentre issue visible on the pulley on my y-driving stepper... as well as that on some pulleys the screws push the pulleys offcenter too. So yeah, GT2 upgrade to be ordered this afternoon and until that time: work with what I've got.
  5. Idem here... not part of beta group, so I'm assuming someone ticked a box that is now sending e-mail out to all users who ever liked a post... nice. :(
  6. The diameter of pulley+belt is 13.7mm, times pi gives 43mm, which is rather perfectly in the range of the spacing issue... I'll inspect the pulleys to see if I can see anything on them from the outside. Do you know if Ultimaker has since upgraded them? I've seen a topic on the forum about custom wellcentered pulleys... I'd rather order those then get a new crooked batch from UM... here's the custom pulley thread: http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/4110-top-quality-pulleys-what-do-you-think-is-an-appropriate-price
  7. A small project that pales in comparison to the great work that was recently posted... Two gifts for the wedding of a friend of mine. They asked for money for new tableware... but yeah who gives that when you can 3D print. I stole the logo from their invitations, and due to some issues with the 3D printer a lot of putty was involved in achieving the final finish (which still has some 'personality'). You can see the issue thread to see the before putty pictures...
  8. The wedding already took place... I gave the plates with bad infill and asked to get them back after to fix them up properly... so I'm now working with Putty... Thicker layers don't help, it will just add more layers with holes in them... flow helps a little bit, but then the regions that have proper infill now get 'plowing marks'. These could be sanded down, but yeah :( As for the rods: I took them to work today and rolled them on a granite block... they're perfectly straight.... that leaves the pulleys or some other issue as the possible cause... Suggestions welcome!
  9. mmmm.... it's pretty hard to judge whether the rods are curved or not. I can see a small airgap when I roll em on the table or put the on a ruler... but you would expect this gap to change in size if they are curved and you roll them, but this does not happen, or at least not in a way that I can see it. I don't have a flat table available hear, but I might take them to work to check it out... what's the best way to test them for curvedness? I can try putting them in a drill and then checking at higher speeds?
  10. Thanks! But I can't take credit for the logo, I copied it from the invitation :-). I actually replaced the tape between printing the square tray and the plate. The plate has a very large flat surface and I was worried about how ugly it would be with all the cracks and holes ;-). So this sadly couldn't be it, as the issue didn't improve between the two prints. It is kind of hollow, both in x and y. Only very slightly, if I press down on the ruler it sinks into the tape and the light disappears. Yesterday I tried printing a full size flat object but without filament to check this out. By eye I can't make out any wobble during the printing on the gantry axes. I'll take it apart tonight though to see how they hold up when I roll em on a flat table.
  11. Sorry for the long radio-silence... parts are in! However, I've also landed a new job and girlfriend... so designing and building the multicopter has been moved to the evening hours/weekends :(. It'll probably be somewhere in August that I make some progress. How are you guys doing? Flying?
  12. After many (3) years of semi-reliable service my Ultimaker Original has now developed a problem (or it has become more apparent) that I can't seem to fix. I was printing a wedding gift for friends of mine: a plate with their initials. In this large flat object a regular banding became apparent: good infill, bad infill, good infill, bad infill, roughly in y-direction. This effect shows from the bottom layer, to the top, and also through the whole prints. Pictures tell a thousands words, so without further ado, here's a complete novel (apologies for the coordinate direction not being the same in all pictures, but be assured: the pattern is in y-direction): On the small one the problem wasn't that apparent on the top, but I still need to fix it with Putty. However, on the big plate it is really bad: notice also the loose support material: it would be a really good idea for Ultimaker to make round corners instead of the perpendicular ones: perpendicular motions put a peeling force on the deposited filament. I can go through the motions and put a whole load of info about cura settings here, but as it has happened now in two big prints I'm pretty convinced it's a hardware issue related to the driving system in x/y. Maybe banana rods lifting the printhead at a regular interval, or perhaps a speeding issue due to offcentered pulleys... The extruder train seems unlikely as you would then expect the effect to be regular in extruded length, not in y-coordinate. Issues with the bed would show more heavily in the bottom layers, and disappear at the top layers, which is not the case. My current approach would be to take the machine apart, inspect all parts, replace where necessary and then put it back together again. Any idea of what to check before I start doing that?
  13. Same problem on this Ultimaker original. Every since the beginning (sep 2012). The guys at Protospace didn't know what to make of it, they replaced the bearings, but that didn't change the sound. I'm at the point of taking it apart completely as I am having some other issues too... I'm suspecting banana rods too. However, with regard to the clicking sounds: I've always suspected them to be caused by the wooden parts moving ever so slightly within the lasercut slots: the frame is constructed in a way that it enhances sound (acoustic guitar anyone? ;-)), so that might have to do with it?
  14. Well, in the end I did go for the Turnigy 9XR Pro as well... the Taranis only comes via HK global warehouse currently, which demands a huge payment in shipping (€50,-!), with the added risk of 20% customs surcharge and €14,- administration cost... with all that calculated in it actually becomes a lot more expensive than the Pro with FrSky D8-IIR telemetry set. For pricing reasons I also ordered some parts from RCTimer... which actually only asks for $2,- shipping... very strange... well, we'll see, it will probably take a lot longer too. You're actually referring to the exact same table I was using. However, you chose the Chassis rating instead of the power transmission that I was looking at. When you compare those ratings to the ratings you see mentioned on fora then people use them at much higher amps. Could you explain the choices you made? The XT90 connector is suited for much higher amps (90A continuous) than the 30A you mention. The AWG14 is actually what I'll be using for the ESC-Motor part of my setup (30A esc, 22A max motor draw), with 3,5mm bullets. What draw do you have on your motors/escs? For my battery I go with AWG10 and the XT90 connector as well, so quite a lot heavier than yours (I'm expecting around 80A max). @gr5 Could you elaborate on your wire sizes and connectors a bit perhaps? Now you only mention that people think they look heavy, without giving other people (me ) the chance to prevent doing the same.
  15. Good to hear from you again MrWong, and nice pictures! Where's the inflight vid? ;-) Thanks for the advice... it looks like I won't be able to order all parts from one HK warehouse anyway, so I'll probably get a Taranis or 9XR... the nice thing of the Taranis is that I"ll have built-in telemetry immediately... will investigate a little further, but good to hear that you're happy with 9XR. People on fora were saying that the Taranis gives a lot more bang for a little more buck compared to 9XR. Did you consider Taranis at all? As I'm moving towards finalizing the orders I'm getting close to the smaller bits and bytes: wiring and connectors. Could you comment on what you are using? I'm looking at approximately 22A max current draw from the motors. So I'm thinking I should be fine using EC3 (3,5mm bullet) connectors for the part from ESC to motor, using AWG14(?) wiring?. The average draw should be much smaller than 22A. For the wiring to the battery it should be much heavier: even AWG6, using XT90 connectors... is this too heavy? What guidelines do you use? If I look at the official AWG tables it results in wiring that to my inexperienced mind looks very heavy! What do your wiring/connector schematics look like?
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