ultibrain
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3D Prints
Posts posted by ultibrain
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Woohoo. Ik ben benieuwd naar je eerste prints!
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Mijn ervaring is dat een tumbler niet de heilige graal is voor het bewerken van bronzefill... Ik heb zo'n ding staan met een steelshot (zeer duur!). Ik vind het geld wat erin zit niet opwegen tegen het resultaat. Met de hand heel licht schuren, en vervolgens met het staalsponsje verder, is in mijn ogen ook heel mooi.
De brazzfill is een ander verhaal. Met messing schroefjes in de tumbler schijnt dat heel gaaf te worden...
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MeshMixer is currently my favourite tool to create supports!
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Ik houd het niet meer bij... 1 1/2 spoel oid?
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Ik heb een tumbler staan. Ik weet nog niet of het de investering waard is. Om eerlijk te zijn, ik denk het niet.... maar misschien leer ik wat bij!
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Als je mij een PM berichtje stuurt met het bestand, lijkt het me leuk om je hierbij te helpen, en het eventueelt te printen!
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Hey Meltx dat is goed nieuws! Ik print xt nu zowel op de ultimaker als op de delta met full metal e3d nozzle. Ik heb geweldige resultaten!!!! Mijn beginnersfout was dus dat ik een te lage flow had.
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Tsjah, ik heb mijn printer in de woonkamer staan. ABS is geen optie, vanwege de stank.
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Can't wait to hear the official announcements! What I hope for: spare parts for a lower price and delivery within 3 business days. So if I break my printer, I gain some confidence I can keep my business going.
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This yogi style vase I just created for a special yogi.
It's printed at the Kossel delta printer, around 26 cm high. As you probably will see, there are some 'vibrations' in the print. This has to do with the frame (totally) unenforced.
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A small remark about the video. I used blue tape to hold the black parts together. This saves some disassemble/assemble time.
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I like my beer in my own printed https://youmagine.com/designs/random-vase-hex. In ColorFabb XT it prints wonderfull. It looks a bit 'frozen'.
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Just to make sure. Is the initial layer thickness set to 0.2 also. Is the Cut off object bottom set to zero?
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This: printed this on the Kossel, it's 28.5 cm high, printed in XT. @255, 0.6 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, spiralize. It's water tight.
https://youmagine.com/designs/vase-xxl-updated
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Although printing at a real low speed. I'm hitting the sweet spot with this deltaprinter, printing XT @255 degrees, with the E3D full metal hot-end. Extrusion seems to continue without failure! Wew.
- 0.2 mm layer height
- 0.6 mm nozzle
- XT white
- Cura: 20 mm/s
- printer at 80%
After the printer finishes I go try at double speed to see the difference in quality and to test if the feeder/hot-end can keep-up.
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Wat ik heb gedaan: schilderstape rond de kop langs de twee naadjes wikkelen zodatie niet uit elkaar valt. (Afgekeken van een engineer bij Ultimaker...). Dan de zijfans eraf schroeven. Die bungelt er dan aan het draadje bij (voorzichtig!). Dan de 4 schroeven op de kop voorzichtig uitelkaar halen, zodat de onderkant vrijkomt. Je kan de witte koppeling er dan zo uitwippen. Post even een pic van je koppeling hier, ik ben benieuwd hoe die eruit ziet na 382 uur. Welke temperatuur print je gemiddeld? Ik print zelf hoofdzakelijk met ColorFabb PLA, op de voorgeschreven warmte van 210 graden.
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Jonny, that metal delta looks like a Kossel on steroids!!!
Compared to the UM's the effector indeed feels - a bit - wobbly. I experience this at the Kossel too.
But let's tell about my experiences. @UltiArjan, you're welcome to drop by and have a look on-site. Maybe we can compile a BOM or something. By-the-way. I started building before I noticed this thread. And this thing still is a work in progress. To start with....... I needed a second printer. A spare with a decent quality. Like LARGE vases. Or statues. Not those 100% precise parts. An ultra-high delta printer seemed usefull (and cool!). So I went for the Kossel.
I went to the site http://www.builda3dprinter.eu. The guy behind it, really gave some great advise for I wanted a 3mm filament, and an extra high version.
Because I did want to run 2.85mm filament I choose for the e3d v6 bowden 3mm hotend. Ordered the hot-end on the website e3d-online.com. Received it fast. One minor thing: the blue fan shroud was very looze on the alu cooler. On the other side: my current effector does not have a fan for the printed object. So I have to fully design it myself. Some day. For now I managed to add a fan mount using tie raps....
I have two extra long side rods, about 1000mm, for a build size of max 55 cm high. However currently I run a 750mm rod having a 30 cm buid height. First get a working printer, after that it's time for freewheeling.... After I assembled the frame, the stability was as expected. Not too stable. However stable enough to print a fine vase...
My plan is to make some side panels, two large K's, from blue plexiglass in the theme of the printer in Marine Blue. I also will get some dailight LED's from the IKEA, to have it look even cooler :smile:. But of course this is not the most important. I want to start printing. Soon.Assembling the Kossel was, except the soldering and cabling, a piece of cake. Easy. I got the whole printer up and running in let's say 3 days. So optimistic as I was I took my printer to the monday ulti evening at the ProtoSpace in Utrecht. Got a lot of questions and offers for support during the evening. Powered it on and printed a small cup. All went well.... till... extrusion stopped. Last days I was trying to print several larger objects, no success. Somehow extrusion stopped to soon. Time after time. Spilled meters of original Ultimaker PLA, XT.
So I set back, took some distance and decided to recheck all trivial things....Wooha, my bad, for some kind of reason the temp sensor settings selected was not stored back on disk. As a result next compile, the wrong temperature entered the build. TEMP_SENSOR_0_1 (instead of 5 which is needed by the sensor on the kossel).
About the calibration.... I didn't :smile:.I just lowered the nozzle manually to X0 and Y0. Entering this as a starting point into the delta printing hight (MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS). I took the Kossel XL configuration from Ardon's website. (http://builda3dprinter.eu), these settings proved to be very precise! I carefully increased X and Y to the edges, looking at the nozzle not touching the build plate. Perfect fit, and: PEFECT first layers!!!! (Which is so cool!)
Now I'm printing Joris' weekly cup 34 in Orange XT. It looks PERFECT. Extrusion seems ok, now my Z axis is on Z059.20. Sitting here with a huge smile!
The whole thing costed me about €750,-. Delivering me a perfect first €750 euro vase :smile:
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A layer number would be better than the current percentage. Altough just displaying the Z coördinate would be nice. This way also when spiralizing the correct info is shown.
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Ik sluit me bij de laatste twee reacties aan. Flow hooghouden is bij XT belangrijk. Als het spul te lang in de hotend blijft degradeert het filament.
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Welke ventilator gaat het om? Die aan de achterzijde of de twee aan de zijkant....
Verder zie je door de zwarte PET beschermkabel heen, vlak boven de kop, een aantal connectors. Kan het zijn dat daar eentje van is losgeschoten. Dan zou je de onderzijde van de printer kunnen bekijken, of daar alle kabeltjes goed vastzitten.
Suggestie: Misschien maandag even aankloppen voor garantie bij Ultimaker? Zo te zien is dat bij jou om de hoek...
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It's time to share some pictures... and a small movie!
I'm printing @230 degrees, Ultimaker PLA, slooooow. The fan mount is not ready yet, but I managed to mount a fan using tie raps. Still huge cooling problems. I also put a fan direct on the feeder, so it hasn't chance to warm and bump the filament.
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Dit lijkt goed op te lossen.
1. controleer de bowden tube, dat er geen achtergebleven materiaal in zit
2. zorg dat feeder goed schoon is. haal die evt uit elkaar
3. doe een cold pull
4. het bed staat vrij laag waardoor de eerste laag niet goed blijft plakken stel deze nog eens in
Heb je overwogen om robert's feeder te gaan gebruiken?
Verder vind ik je temperatuur (250?) vrij hoog om te printen... Maar daar zou ik eens wat mee experimenteren als de extrusie weer op orde is.
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When I push in standard ultimaker light blue pla at 250 into the UM2 hotend, eg for atomic pull, it doesnt take much force. Same filament in e3d much more force same for xt. I'm curious what your observations will be.
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I guess this tool is called a 'jig' or 'Spannvorrichtung'. .Very nice...as glue I used a 2-component, solid in 5 minutes. Btw I'm building the Kossel. Pictures will follow soon
About the e3d, I have the v6 3mm bowden version. I'm not happy with it, a lot of friction in the hot-end. Causing problems in the toothed wheel on th eextruder. I am only to print with Ultimaker PLA, 0.6 nozzle, and crazy high temperatures, and borrowing slow speeds. The plan -was- to be able to use 3mm filaments from the Ultimaker in the e3d hotend. I'm almost giving up.
My plan is to make some side panels, two large K's, from blue plexiglass in the theme of the printer in Marine Blue. I also will get some dailight LED's from the IKEA, to have it look even cooler :smile:. But of course this is not the most important. I want to start printing. Soon.
Bronzefill polijsten: Tumblers
in Nederlands
Posted
Klopt. Als je een brassfill print in de tumbler stopt, en je stopt er schroeven van brass (messing?) in, dan krijg je wel heel gave resultaten!
Zie hier twee bronzen beeldjes die ik in de tumbler heb gehad: