stevie.d

Had one of those when released first. There is another listing on E-Bay for same only has plate and cables. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-Aluminium-Plate-with-Temperature-Sensor-for-Ultimaker-3D-Printers-/221520297760?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123 Have to be really careful though, I ripped the connector off the side after a week The relay I got with it was crap burned out in no time got this instead http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&view=all&item=180887450162&tid=1252082252008&ssPageName=ADME:X:UPICB:IE:1123 The Power supply they w

It was the heated bed on sale on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118%20, still hearing good things about it, upgraded the relay on it to a 30a one, I think with all the pulling and pushing of boards n stuff I might have shorted something out, I have a project for the next couple of days but might dip my toe after that thanks for your help and encouragement.

Thanks 3dGuy that worked, printer back to where it was, heated bed not working, but a bit unnerved by the whole thing, so I think I'll just go without now.

Having a nightmare here, same issue, managed to reinstall new firmware, put machine back together and controller is just dead in the water now, tried all obvious connections etc.anyone have any idea where i should start looiking??

Apologies for not replying sooner, it appears that it was the Infill overlap as suggested by illuminarti took the overlap down to 5% which was leaving lines at the top of my model where there was an inset with support material and just ended up making the infill 100% and overlap at which seemed to do the trick, the back of the part was still slightly rougher but attributing that to fan position so reversed the part and it came out ok,

I've been having this recurring issue with tall thick prints for a while now I've checked belts and gone from having them really tight to somewhat looser to really loose,I've messed around with the bed too but nothing seems to make this go away,it only seems to happen on Prints with thick walls requiring fil The walls on this model are http://www.flickr.com/photos/90997546@N04/9313787496/ is on the left hand side of the printer Fan side and is as good quality as I can get ,the second pichttp://www.flickr.com/photos/90997546@N04/9311001725/in/photostream/ is the back side and the third is t

Get Ultimaker kit on the 11th, on the 13th during build discover teflon plug end for the Bowden tube is missing, search everywhere several times, wonder if this part is not obsolete 'cause wiki doesn't get updated very fast I notice. Post on forum, told I definetley do need piece, so then after exploring all these avenues contact Ultimaker, get a vague non committal mail asking have I perhaps "misplaced" piece myself , if not, mail back and they will sort it out for me. Mail back assuring them that I have most defineltey not "misplaced" part and explain other avenues taken before contacting

Thanks so much for your quick response ,guess I'm not printing this week then :(

Hi ,I'm in the middle of building my printer and I'm stuck on the bowden tube feeder, in on the wiki it refers to a teflon tube that the bowden tube fits into,http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/8185558850/lightbox/ , all I have is this guy, which I am presuming goes on top of the head, so is it the case that this part is obsolete and the intention is for the bowden to feed directly into the PEEK as shown , or, have I been left short this teflon tube??

Hi Daid, Changing the opengl file worked for me thanks .

Hi. I'm having same problems in Win 64bit found the the file preview3d.py C:/Program Files(x86)/Cura_12.11/gui but no line of code with 9999 in it, checked several times, could you perhaps put it into context with preceding lines or even a screen shot. I'm on the cusp of buying a machine but want to do some tests first.Thanks