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thevictor11

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Everything posted by thevictor11

  1. Pretty much the answer I was expecting haha. Looks like I'll have to restock my sandpaper
  2. Is there a way to prevent the surface that is supported to not have a melted look when the supports are broken off? I'm printing an object similar to the bottom of a boat and the smooth under body is just awful once I break the supports off. Took me almost an hour just to get it to a presentable stage.
  3. If there's a lot I run over it with a blade to get rid of the larger chunks. After that I just sand what ever is left with 200 grit sandpaper. That usually takes care of what gets left on mine. Good luck!
  4. Thanks for the reply Daid. Couldn't get Slic3r to make retractions in spots so I gave up and went back to Cura. I managed to do a 40 micron print with the Skin feature. It was a little rough but it sanded down to a really smooth finish which is exactly what I wanted, a few flaws but might be the innaccuracies like you said after 50 microns. I'm gonna give the 50 micron print a go. Really glad to have an actual conversation with the people directly connected to the software Thanks again.
  5. Thanks again for the help Owen! I'll have to go through these tonight
  6. So over my winter break from classes I decided to recalibrate and went through the entire machine from top to bottom making sure everything was the way it should. Caught 4 bolts that were not 100% tight either my fault or just from the machine working. Now, I've printed 5 objects and all came out perfectly. No weird lines or weird layering like I used to have. I've been printing at 200 microns and I figured with my new found success with prints I figured I could aim to get my prints down/up to the crazy 20 microns that I kept hearing about. First print with Cura, unsuccessful. It came out really rough kinda like sandpaper. My question is, is it possible to go down to 20 microns with Cura on the default Ultimaker nozzle? I have a print I sliced with Slic3r that's currently printing and from what I see so far, it's pretty smooth so we'll see when it finishes in 2 hours haha. I personally love Cura's interface and if I can, I would definitely like to stick with it rather than switch to another program.
  7. After using Cura for the past few months I decided to take advantage of the Netfabb license I bought with the Ultimaker. My problem is I have no idea how to use Netfabb. I was following the "guide" on the Ultimaker support http://wiki.ultimaker.com/NetFabb_Setup_Guide_and_Quick_Introduction#Backup_old_profiles_.26_cleaning_of_old_versions but I feel like it isn't up to date because I get to certain point and I can't follow it anymore because buttons and labels aren't the same. Is there an up to date tutorial for this? Thanks!
  8. It's weird though. My model is supposed to be about 3" tall but if I scale it to 25.4 it's almost 6.5" tall. I'll try the export in mm and see. Been so busy with classes I haven't printed a single thing all week =(
  9. I've been printing things using cura, usually from thingiverse but when I export STLs from cinema4d I noticed things don't I.port at the same scale. I export them in inches, which is the same unit I build my things in but when my 4" block is imported in its like 25% scale. I'm not sure how to fix this. Any idea?
  10. Thanks guys, I glad someone with more than one ultimaker replied haha. I'll give both a try tonight
  11. Hey guys, so I decided to upgrade the fan duct from the original but I'm not sure which ones are "best". I've tried a few but they've either hit the heating block or they sat too low for some reason. I have the newest Ultimaker kit with the V2 hot end and...anything else they've upgrade :lol: I've already printed a few already but it's a downer printing so many fan ducts that don't end up working and become "garbage". I have a second fan here and a 2 pin splitter in the mail so if anyone has any suggestions on a setup for the second fan as well? I was thinking of trying these but I figured I'd get some input before I drop more hours and resources on them. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20991 I'm pretty sure this isn't for the ultimaker but it's nice that it has 2 fan option http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23713 The main reason for this upgrade is that I think the PLA warps too much if it doesn't get cooled properly which is why sometimes my nozzle catches my prints. I'm not 100% on that theory so if anyone has any input on that that'd also be great
  12. Luckily my cats know better/don't care haha. I've been meaning to look into getting another fan during the holidays. I'm just curious where you would plug the second one into?
  13. Thanks Owen. I'll give KISSlicer a try. The printer just got its power unplugged because my dog ran and tripped over it :cry: Going to give the new fanduct a go and see how that goes. Also give KISSlicer a go for the next attempt.
  14. So I believe I may have found the problem. The bumping starts when it starts printing the hands of the figure. I guess because it's such a small area to fill in that the PLA warps and angles upwards which is what gets caught. That combo'd with a tower of support material being the only support structure it has doesn't give it a very strong platform. Does this sound right to people with more experience? I'm not quite sure how to solve this issue. Would a better fan duct help? I noticed while holding the print steady for 15 minutes that the default fan duct doesn't blow directly onto the area the nozzle just dealt with. Any suggestions would be awesome UPDATE: I noticed the support structure on the right side, that is barely hit by the fan, is much more wobbly than the left one. Does being cooled make the plastic sturdier than cooling gradually? Also this is the model I'm trying to print. Finally got a decent render of it.
  15. Are you doing all the mould making and casting yourself? Have you considered using silicone mould? I've used that for a more complicated project and because it's flexible, you can keep the mould to 2 parts. You paint on coats until you get a thick enough layer then you make a plaster mould around the silicone to give it a hard case. After that you just cut the plaster and silicone parts in half with registration points. And unfortunately I can't even afford 1 of the $200 ducks. lol
  16. Quick question. I noticed this while I was just tightening the belts. Is the Z axis screw supposed to just hover under the hole? I questioned it when I built it but never bothered to post it. That seems to be the only issue I can find so far. Gonna give the Cura control panel a test. UPDATE: So I tried the Cura control panel to slowly step it down by 0.1mm at a time and see if there were any inconsistent drop rate and this is what I got. Z + 002.20 002.30 002.39 ... 009.39 009.50 ... 037.50 037.59 it's the consistent all the up to where I stopped at 080.09 So I'm not sure if that would ever make a difference in the nozzle getting stuck. The print usually messes up around the Z045.00 - Z055.00 range. I've tightened all the screws relating to the Z axis I believe. The 4 on the motor at the bottom, the 4 for the cylindrical thing that the motor and Z axis is connected to annnd....that might be all I can think of. Pain in the arse. If anyone ever printed off that Makerbot piece I linked in an earlier post could they let me know if it went smoothly? I'm going to try it again now and see if it happens again there. If not I'm hoping whatever I've done in the past 2 hours has fixed this. UPDATE2: So printed the Makerbot claw but this time connected directly to my PC. No issues at all, no weird steps, no jumps and no catching. This may be looking up. Will try the figure again tomorrow but connected to the PC. This is starting to feel like those experiments I did in high school where I recorded everything I did haha. Maybe this will help someone having this issue if it works. Cheers!
  17. I would back that kickstarter x10. I hate how my ear buds run wild in my pockets or backpack and that is a very good looking solution. Also on my To-Print List once I get mine in working order. I have a little experience with mold making so I understand the frustration of trying to get one for it. Good luck!
  18. It's pretty close to the same area each time. Happens usually just before the crotch or right at it. Roughly 3/4" window where it will have an accident. I'll give the control panel a try when i get home from class, completely forgot that existed once I started using the Ulticontroller :lol:
  19. I'm not sure how to lower it manually and get an accurate measurement each time. Maybe I can do it through cura? I was thinking of just going back to the start and recalibrating EVERYTHING I can. Make sure all the belts are properly adjusted, check all the screws and everything is in the right position. Quick question for the extruder. How tight is the screw supposed to be? I'm pretty sure I have it at a good tightness but I'm not 100% sure. This time zone difference is unfortunate. The waiting is killing me haha. Really appreciate the feedback though. Everything helps, if I find anything wrong, even though it doesn't relate to the current problem is a plus. :mrgreen: NOTE: I printed http://www.thingiverse.com/image:183945 and it did the same thing that happened to my model. I had done about 2 hours worth of printing before that one and just before the point where it would've connected the 2 side pieces it kicked it to the side. On my second attempt I caught it and manually raised the platform and it worked fine from there but left a weak spot in the print. If anyone wants to give it a try and see if that happens to you as well then I can confirm that it's my model which would be unfortunate and kind of awesome. It happened at 19% completion. It's labeled RIGHT CLAW. NOTE2: I'm not sure if this matters or not but prior to the first attempt at the piece mentioned above, I printed http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32510. At the tip, about 95% of the way through the print I noticed it just failed to print 1 side of model. I'll post a picture of it later when I get home from class. Didn't think to document that when it happened.
  20. I've taken my digital calipers to the filament a few times after each print just to make sure. I've been adjusting the diameters between 2.78 and 2.82. I'm not sure how much of a difference that makes. It was default at 2.89. The build up was cleaned after that last print. It stays clean up until it messes up where the nozzle spends a few seconds getting caught in the print and covers itself. I sped the print up from 50mm/s to 65mm/s to see if that makes a difference. Will update in 2 hours, general time frame when it fails. UPDATE: Okay it takes 3 hours before it messes up. Woooh :( Anyways. I noticed after so long the Z axis didn't lower enough to clear the print and the nozzle started scraping the against it. I held on to the print to see if I could manually lower the Z axis just a little bit but it bumped the print off before I could. Very frustrating. Also the nozzle is still clean, no drips or blobs hanging on it. The diameter is still the same as when the print started from what my calipers tells me. Not sure what to do other than completely redo my 3D model in hopes that the model is the problem and not the settings despite it working on a low quality print. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated Managed to get my camera working and took a few snaps of the print and the previous one. I'm not sure if this would help at all but worth a shot. Mind the puns, sorry. Also, I'm not sure if this is just a small detail or not but I noticed the skirt prints almost like a cone. The outer edge is on the platform but as it prints more layers it slowly starts to rise. If I let it continue until it filled itself in, it would look like a cone. :?:
  21. So after another attempt at printing this figure, it's fallen again. It tipped over at the crotch again, for some reason I guess a bump catches the nozzle and it pushed the figure off. The skirt is still connected to the platform, unmoved. I looked over the model in Cura and I didn't see any problems at the waist area. There are some red sections but those are near the neck. I'm not sure what to do now, it's been 7 prints and every one of them has fallen over in the same area. I tried a quick print prior to this one using 0.3mm layer height and the speed set to 75mm/s and it printed flawlessly. I normally have it at defaults using 0.1mm layer height and 50mm/s speed. Appreciate it guys :oops: AN extra note. I've printed a few other things as well and none of them has had any issues with the nozzle catching.
  22. Finally got the replacement. Came to $90 after duty fees :(
  23. I can't help you on the plug but I just cleaned the PLA off from my parts because of a leak. What I did was I seperated the parts from the heater block and heated the brass parts with a flame until the plastic liquefied and wiped it off with a cloth. I repeated the steps until they were clear, just make sure you free up the threads. I also took a flame to it before I connected the brass parts again to get rid of any fibers from the cloth. Not sure how good this advice is since I haven't pieced mine back together 100% yet but the parts that did go back on, went without issue. Good luck!
  24. I noticed a leak mid print and decided to stop it to clean it. It came out from between the heater block and the brass tube. I keep the heat going to make sure nothing solidifies and slowly unscrew the parts. The brass tube snaps kinda like this Except that both ends are completely stuck in other pieces :cry: I just sent support an email but holy crap. Stressed to the bone right now. The worse part is, even if I get a replacement part I have to figure out how to get the 2 wires out of the heater block. They were a huge pain to get in. I just tried to remove the smaller one which I believe is the temperature monitor and the sleeve started to pull back which isn't a good thing. I also tried pushing the other end with a long screw but it is definitely stuck in there. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? UPDATE: managed to to free the part from the heater block. For some reason when I was trying before the temperature had dropped low enough for the parts to "stick" .
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