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Everything posted by 3design

  1. Actually, I printed as well with ABS (with blocked the nozzle), PP (with went fairly well) and TPU (which went well after using hot glue to fix the object on the blue tape).
  2. I am still working with an Ultimaker Original using blue masking tape, e. g. without heated surface. Now I'd like to upgrade it with a heated bed. As I do not have neither the tools nor the knowledge to construct in myself: Where would you advice me to buy a heated bed fitting to an Ultimaker Original, and what key issues I would have to takt into account when installing it? As being less experienced in hardware mods, it would be nice as well if you could advise me of any helpful tutorials.
  3. Looks like I wa lucky with all my prints up to now - you are right, I never really wondered about too high printing speed. During the 3rd print (with succeeded in the end) i even increased the printing speed on the controller from 100 to 130% - and all went fine. I will readily try out different speeds or layer thickness, what might help as well with more filigrane objects - some of them I wasn't able to print because the moves of the print head caused them to bow and finally drop off. Thank you very much for your advice.
  4. As there have been no answers since, I decided to repeat the printing. After a second printing failed (again due to abrased filament), I started a third one where I continually observed the feed. I concluded that the crux of the matter was in the filament spool. The filament was so densely packed that the filament cycles blocked each other, resulting in slowing down the feed an eventually stopping it. I unwound the entire spool, so the filament was loosely lying on it. Such, I finally could successfully finish the print. I hope to help others with this solution, the topic can be closed.
  5. What could be the reason that filament was abrased inside the feeder unit and stopped to proceed? Please have a look at the following pictures (filament string which was abrased during printing, object when filament feed stopped, Cura settings): It is the first time that problem occurred. As it was a five-hour-printout, I would be glad if you told me about the reasons for the problem. Do you think one of the following could be the reason: - old filament (might be up to 3 years - overheated stepped motor in the feeding unit - long printing time, problem occurred after 3.5 to 4 hrs of printing - any of the settings chosen (Ultimaker Original, newest Cura version) I'd be glad about any idea or hint how to fix that issue.
  6. That was precisely the problem, thank you very much. After having done some research, I came to the same result. Ticking the "Solid infill top" box lead to a proper upper layer. Don't ask me why the box was deselected - I never changed anything. For the sake of completeness, I add the two pictures again: The lately printed object displayed a proper, closed surface. Instead I had problems with warping, but that's another story ;-)
  7. I have Cura 15.04.6, and checking for update inside Cura I read that I've got the newest version. The settings are as following: - layer height are 0.2mm, shell thickness 0.8mm, and bottom/top thickness 0.6mm, nozzle size 0.4. That should work, shouldn't it? @ pictures good point, my server is on the ISS ;-) I am quite a newbie with uploading pictures, so if you can recommend me a server on earth I'd be grateful; and, BTW, what do your mean with UMO?
  8. Hi With my last printed objects, the top layers seem to miss, i.e. instead of a continuous layer, you see the square pattern inside the object. What might be the reason for that? I am using an Ultimaker one and the latest Cura version. Please have a look at the pictures added. With the icosaedron, the top layer of the biggest body is missing, with the cookie cutter, the top layer of the broader rim at the bottom. Icosahedron cookie cutter
  9. IMHO not so obvious as it might look like. Considering the 3D desing tips this might be a subject quite many people are interested in, as they use the same software. So why not gather the Ultimaker support for those (currently) 9 listed tools in one place such as this forum?
  10. Well... after three days of refusing to download my objects, Tinkercad today kept out of mischief and supplied me with a flawless stl file. Hoping that I was just creating a storm in a teacup :mrgreen: the topic can be closed.
  11. Recently, I had a problem to download an object for 3d printing made in Tinkercad. Although I can choose the "stl" option for my object, but what happens then is that a blank page opens in my browser. Who has spotted this problem as well and knows what to do?
  12. I sprinkle the bottom of the object with IPA from all sides, wait a minute or two, and then gently insert a carpet cutter between the object and the blue tape. Sometimes, the object comes off together with the tape (without ripping it), then while holding the object in the air with one hand, with the other I press down the tape back to the build plate. Be sure to catch the right moment for that because when the PLA evaporated too much, the blue tape will stick again to the object. If the tape rips, anyway, I remove as much as possible from the object as long as there is PLA around. The tape remainders I remove by soaking the object bottom in warm water for some minutes and scraping it clean with the carpet cutter. Maybe not the most simple method but generally resulting in a clean, undamaged object.
  13. Reading your post I understood I can post the file here in the forum. But sure enough, posting a link to a website works as well. I'll stay tuned.
  14. I'm afraid to be at a loss... how do I post a sketchup file?
  15. I reached a higher level on confusion :???: Now, with Cura 13, I can position the object on the printing area. I tried this out with a dae file (Export from Sketchup) as well with the original stl file. With both objects, Cura showed me a "0 minutes 0 meter o gram" printing time resp. PLA use. To be on the save side, I converted it into gcode at let my printer work... and actually, he printed nothing, as shown in Cura. What might be a workaround for that?
  16. I was told downloading the newest Cura version (13.xxxx) and Firmware might solve the problem - unfortunatly, it persists. So I am still looking for a solution...
  17. I have a problem with Cura 12.11 when trying to import a STL file that was created with Google Sketchup (if this is relevant). Everytime I import it into Cura, it is displayed in a very small model scale (0.00x or so) and barely visible on the printing area (i.e. the blue tape area of the z stage). When I enlarge the object it "escapes" from the area, i.e. the larger I make it, the more it escapes into the bottom left direction and is placed outside the area, even not visible when choosing the model scale "1". Starting the "prepare print" function does not work, as Cura either produces lots of errors in the gcode or claims to be unable to start the process. Trying to open the file in Tinkercad results in a damaged file with lots of recesses and incisions in the surface. Does anyone has a solution for that?
  18. I wonder how to describe how many cubic cm a given part is which I wanted to print - is there any indication in Cura (or somewhere else)?
  19. Ok, now I finished my print and got fairly good results with the following changed settings: - 0.2mm layer, wall thickness 0.4, bottom/top 0.8, fill density 20, packing density 1, 230 C temperature, printing speed for the lower part 200%, for the upper 150% - use of IPA to clean the bed (before adding the blue tape) and the blue tape - extruder fan turned off completely The object stuck so perfectly to the z stage, that I only could rip it off together with the blue tape, and soaking it afterwards to scratch it off slowly with a cutter ... but at the end of the day it worked. the object was slightly "coral-reef"-looking, but only on one edge, so that's acceptable.
  20. As to cleaning the nozzle from ABS remainders (after swiching back to PLA), I was told to heat up the extruder on 260 C an extrude manually until the outcoming PLA is clean from ABS leftovers. Works pretty good.
  21. Thank you both for your valuable hints :-P I'd like to add some more I got from the FabLab Luzern: - first clean the acrylic bed with IPA - then put on the blue tape. Use a broader one that the one you (maybe) received together with your ultimaker kit. The one I got was 25mm broad, I now bought a 38mm - then clean the surface of the blue tape with IPA - printing with 200% is a good idea, but in case of underextrusion increase the flow rate via ulticontroller ("tune" menu). IPA, btw, I managed to buy at a Conrad Electronics store (conrad.com) I am still collecting hints, but will soon try out which solution works best and post it here.
  22. Thank you for the promising advice @ illuminarti where can I buy isopropyl alcohol, at a drugstore maybe? @gr5 the max temperature is about 230°, that's right? Or would you recommend a higher temperature?
  23. I am at a loss with a simple part I printed out four times, and always having trouble with warping. Who might help? This might help you for a diagnosis: - object: 7 x 5cm lid, 2mm thick, with two 5x5mm blocks on the top running along each long side - Software: Cura 12.11, all default printing settings, if not mentioned below - filament: PLA 2.9mm - wall thickness/bottom/top thickness: 0.4mm resp. 1.2mm for all (I tried both versions with no perceptible effect - printing speed: 100% versus 200% (on the ultimaker controller). 200% helped somewhat with the warping, but the object structure was very rough, looking like a coral reef. Speed in cura a default (50mm/s) - layer thickness: 0.2mm vs. 0.1mm 0.1mm made the object more accurate, but the warping even stronger - fill density: 20% (in the case of wall thickness 0.4mm) - raft: no (would ruin the surface structure of the lid) - printing temperature: 220° - advanced config: all settings as in default - blue tape/z-axis: replacing the blue tape brougt no effect. The structure pulls off the blue tape from the printing bed, so that it is "in the air" Any Idea how I could solve this?
  24. Yes, it is a reel with round filament, diameter constantly between 2.8 and 2.9mm (rather 2.9). What settings do you recommend for the fan speed and the extrusion speed? Or just by "trial and error"?
  25. I just tried to print with ABS after having two months of experience with PLA. I took a black ABS filament from fabbster, diameter about 2.9mm, temperature 220°, packing density 0.85. It seemed to harden much more faster than the PLA before, and after some layers the print started to mess up and look like a plate of spaghetti. Re-inserting of PLA was troublesome as well, because the ABS nearly blocked the nozzle (extruding via Ultimaker controller, until the extruding wheel rubbed off too much filament, then cutting out the damaged part, re-inserting), and making a test print which was polluted with ABS. Before trying a second time I'd prefer to ask you for your experience: What is specific for printing with ABS; do you know any beginner's guide?
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