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robinmdh

Team Ultimaker
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Everything posted by robinmdh

  1. Missed that SD card bit indeed 😅 While the we are still making bugfixes for the um2(+) I don't see time for new features likely. Have you tried @tinkergnome's tinker firmware? It has a bunch of features the regular firmware does not, if it doesn't already have that feature someone might be able to add it.
  2. So if you abort a print the UM3 and S5 have a retry option at the end of the print. And the Cura connect print queue software (running on the same printers) has a list of old prints you can duplicate. Does that help?
  3. Have you done a cura connect reset on the printer? There is no official PPA AFAIK so this is out of our control, we can't make old software magically do new tricks. Please use the AppImage version provided for Linux. (and yes try doing a cc reset)
  4. never mind.... It seems silly that I can't delete a post, but I was incorrect.
  5. Of course you can more easily set some pins to create a short circuit and doing so would be unintended use and the damage caused would fall outside of warranty.
  6. It will still abrade the printcore and ooze a bit more but the wood fibers have an easier time being pushed trough the nozzle and I have less clogging especially at higher temperatures (to create fake wood nerve/layering) as the nozzle does not have a flat bit just before the exit. | | | | AA \ \_ _/ / \__| |_/ | | | | BB \ \ / / \ \ / / \_| |_/ Perhaps this ASCII art cross section illustrates the difference in internal geometry. So the BB core is intended for materials that do not easily flow trough that flat (even if the hole is the same size), while the flat does a lot to prevent oozing, it's a trade off.
  7. Some phone providers make it just as easy, and the user still gets access to the root(administrator) account of the device, so rooting is what it literally is. Ultimaker provide the tools and instructions (on this forum) to "root" the printer that makes it even more questionable to hinge warranty on that IMHO. I have no idea what Ultimaker's official stance on this is so I'm sticking to quoting fact.
  8. A) you'd have been warned (in Cura by a yellow color, in the printer by a line saying it is not recommended) B) it works fine and it is even advisable to print wood-fill PLA with a BB core for instance. The one thing you shouldn't do is put PVA in a AA core. this quickly makes the core clogged beyond recovery. (*barring drilling the gunk out which damages the core) the PVA flyer with your printer does specifically mention the BB core. At least it is listed correctly on the website: Swappable print cores Faster print core changes mean higher uptime and easier maintenance. Your Ultimaker 3 comes with print cores for build (AA) and water-soluble support (BB) materials. The app can monitor the printer remotely already but it only gets events such as print finished, aborted or started. not a camera stream, the cloud solution we are working on (I think we have 1.5 dedicated cloud engineers in a SW department of 40-ish people testers/developer/product-owners working on firmware connect, Cura, app and cloud) includes slicing in the cloud and sending prints directly to the printer from anywhere. AFAIK no remote camera stream. so that depends on what you mean by monitoring. And yes @kmanstudios this is forcing us to implement better security everywhere connect is currently completely without security this will have to change. Great to hear, and improving this is indeed out focus at the moment!
  9. I would compare this to rooting your phone And well as far as I know it's just not legal to consider changing the software as breaking warranty. Then again I'm a software developer not a lawyer...
  10. If it helps it would for instance be very easy to expose the current and total layer counts via the printjob HTTP REST API the same way progress (0 to 1) is currently exposed here: http://<insert.printer.ip.addr>/api/v1/print_job/progress BTW: There already is a way to view the current Z height during printing: http://<insert.printer.ip.addr>/api/v1/printer/heads/0/position/z
  11. I've never had this problem with Ethernet, I would suggest doing the factory reset as it should be the default after that if you then skip the wifi setup. You can always make an impromptu mini lan with a router but indeed you can also plug your laptop into the printers Ethernet port cross cable (though most modern computers can use a normal cable) directly or use a hub/switch and the printer should come up with a link local ip address, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Link-local_address these start with 169.254.x.x depending on your computer you might have to configure an ip in the same range but most systems do support the link local protocol, it just takes a bit more time. That way you can also find out the mac address. Though I thought the mac address was also in the networking menu (I just checked the code (as I don't have an S5 present) it shows the mac address of the active connection though so you need to set it on Ethernet first), so yeah that would be the simple path. I Had no problems with the first run wizard it is a bit restrictive(requesting specific materials) but you can do the steps you want and then skip everything else. If you really can't get networking to work you could also get a serial cable there are some instructions from the olimex folks that explain this. NO! What you seem to want is not a simple setup, changing the steps per unit by re-compileing marlin and putting that on the printer is more complicated, this is changing one file on the printer. I only mentioned this as an alternative to that.
  12. I meant on the printer. use developer mode to ssh into the printer and edit the file there using the vi command or use winscp to edit the file with windows. This will save you from editing and compiling marlin at least. Please note that a microstep in the S5 is half the size as that of the UM3 so the printer should have a higher resolution, so if you're not getting that resolution, before doing anything I'd check the tension in the belts, that might be the problem instead. good luck!
  13. you can set the steps per unit in the machine configuration file for both the UM3 and S5 located in /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/ have a look at 9051.json and um3.json
  14. The marlin code is available or can be made available upon request. the python code you can read on the printer. and hey the flow sensor for the S5 was originally planned for the UM3, actually the feeder design including flow sensor can be mounted and connected to the UM3. There is also already code to report a flow sensor error causing the printer to pause.
  15. I think the only advantage for your prints that the S5 has is filament flow sensor and multi point bed leveling, which seriously increases buildplate adhesion, though I still recommend using (uhu or pritt) glue on a hot buildplate spread out with a wet sponge for PLA. The S5 has a heavier print head and thus accelerates slightly slower. there is lower throughput that affects surface quality in extremely highly detailed models in the UM3 which we've improved in the S5 and not yet ported to the UM3, don't worry though it's not bad and we will port it to the UM3. There is also future add-ons to consider, as Sander said: So you can count on some accessories/add-ons that will require that hardware.l
  16. It depends on what you want. Do you want an guranteed working Marlin for UMO take the version of Ultimaker. If you don't mind some testing and trial and Error the mainline marlin can be made to work on the UMO. I'd probably just try to merge the changes UM made to the config.h into the marlin mainline's version and build and see if it works first.
  17. can't you just build with arduino? it's only slightly more complex.
  18. I'll add it to the board, since we can actually see if the previous material was different than the current material we could do this automatically when needed. The question then becomes should we only do this for a material type change or for a color change as well (keeping in mind that if you don't use use material identified by RFID this won't work)? OR just add a flush material option to the print-core or material menu to allow the user to do so manually after changing cores?
  19. I hope you don't mind if I nitpick a little bit, what you describe here is EMC. ESD happens when you're wearing your fleece jacket in the winter and you moving and walking around generates a charge via tribocharging . When that buildup charge suddenly discharges, that is a great example of an ESD event.
  20. @Fulv I'd use the BB core for woodfill if you use the Ultimaker cores, that will cause a bit more oozing but less chance for plugs when printing with 0.4mm cores that is, I'm not sure if this matters for larger diameter cores. the BB core geometry vs AA core can be sumarised as: AA \ \_ _/ / \__| |_/ BB \ \ / / \_| |_/ Not having the flat bit helps pushing the bits of wood through.
  21. TL;DR -> @chrisgr99 If the model was to high poly for Meshlab then I guess that was it and the screen is unrelated. Don't worry too much about the screen, if it goes back to normal after a minute or so then everything is fine. You can be a great source of ESD event yourself, just FYI, your clothes etc can generate charges well over 5000Volts just with very few joules of energy. The sudden discharge of that can still break and disrupt electronics, as we have seen with the screen which is why it resets it's synchronization once in a while. This this is more likely in dry environments as moisture causes some random lower resistance pathways for those charges to safely dissipate trough. And a resounding NO on the overflow thing, it just doesn't work that way. It might make the screen update slower but not nothing else as these parts are separate programs.
  22. I've seen all kinds of shifts happen on the display, it is usually caused by a powerfull Electro static distcharge(ESD) but it can also be caused by constant EMC. The fact that it happens every time is strongly indicative of nearby electrical disturbances, could be a microwave or anything that generates sparks, broken CLF tubes, that kind of stuff. That same disturbance is also wreaking havoc on the communication channel between the real time controller(marlin/arduino) and the high level controller (griffin/olimex/linux) this lowers the potential throughput a lot, throughput required when printing more high-poly models but your EMC disturbance could make it problematic for even simple medium poly prints. This can most likely not be fixed by firmware only more shielding. And any other 3d printers in that environment would quite possibly skip moves (not stop though, as most don't have error recovery on their read from serial or SD card). I suggest moving the printer to a different room or building and seeing if the problem persists. P.S: (the display would likely shift left to right or top to bottom and then wrap around so that the edges of the screen are now in the middle, not rotated).
  23. you'll need to build from mainline marlin the grid based leveling was never merged in and the new S5 does it before the data goes to marlin. have a look here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin You might need to take configure quite a few settings for it to work on your UMO though, if you don't know what you're doing I would recommend getting help from someone that does. From what I remember looking at the code I remember there were some inconsistencies which is why we didn't use it.
  24. I'm not exactly sure, however I remember a mechanical engeneer telling me the bit with the cooling ribs should not become much hotter then 90 degc this is a very safe conservative estimate if I recall but keeping the Teflon insert from degrading is important so if you can monitor that and/or add cooling if needed it would likely help keep your printcore functional. For the rest of the printcore: The metal themselves should not have a problem with a heatgun but the sensor and heater cartridge might and I don't know.
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