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gr5

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  1. @thanks1976 - I think you misunderstood Nallath. There is a parameter called support horizontal expansion. I think you will find that has a value of about 3mm when you support with a second extruder. There is a good reason for this. If you have PVA support, PVA doesn't print on top of PLA very well. But if you do some horizontal expansion, then you can print PVA all the way down to the print bed and you are more likely to get a successful print. You can change this parameter yourself if you think you are smarter than Cura.
  2. The UM2+C has I believe two computers in it - an arduino based computer that controlls the steppers and accepts gcodes from... the second, more powerful computer (think cell phone). The gcodes are all interpreted by the more powerful linux computer which then sends some of them as is over to the arduino based computer. The display is controlled by the linux computer and the M0 requires more complication because the display and touch screen need to pop up a message and when you tap the screen the printer needs to continue. Also it's nice to have the ability to control temp, maybe
  3. I'm pretty sure Nallath is referring to the little red arc in the picture that shows your model mostly as blue and white. There should be no red. It might not matter. But that red area is non-manifold in some way. You may or may not have to fix that small spot.
  4. I'm pretty sure it's because the model is too thin there for your settings. As a quick check - set the nozzle width to half of what it is now to see if that helps. If it does then it is related to those thin areas of your model. You can also try the option print thin walls. Check that box in cura. If that's not enough try lowering you line width parameters. If your nozzle is 0.4mm you can go down to 0.3mm line width without a severe loss of quality. Certainly 0.35mm is fine. As a general rule, any wall you print needs to be 2X the width of the line widt
  5. I have good news for you - I believe that the new Cura beta (alpha?) version 5 does this (aka Arachne). Try it out. There is a good reason that cura has never been able to do this but I don't want to get into it unless you really want to know. Just trust me that it's a pretty good reason. But what you ask for has been asked by so many thousands (millions?) of people. And now I believe (I'm not certain) that Arachne can do this. Maybe. By the way you *can* print 0.4mm walls with a 0.4mm nozzle using Cura if you choose print thin walls but it still does 2 passes.
  6. So in short - you are using the printer beyond it's expected abilities. Add a fan to your filter or just get rid of the cover. Or don't print PLA (but PLA is the easiest and the best material). That cover is bad for PLA but won't hurt if you are printing PETG and is actually helpful for Nylon (but now you are printing too hot and the teflon part in the print head won't last nearly as long). Ideally stick with PLA and remove the cover but if you really want the cover then add a fan to the filter.
  7. If you do remove that outer wall then those very thin walls may fall over. There are several different support pattern options: grid, lines, etc. Did you play with that? It looks like you chose lines Well I tried to duplicate your support structure and I can't. I tried a whole bunch of support settings and mine don't have those walls. Please post your project file (it will contain your model, your printer settings, your profile, and your setting overrides). Go to menu "file" "save project..." and post that file here. Also what version of Cura are y
  8. @Smithy - does UM2+C have pause feature? I think UM3, S3, S5 all have it but not sure about UM2+C.
  9. Sorry I've never used the backup plugin. I don't save my settings in "profiles" but instead save them in "projects" and those get backed up along with everything else I care about on my computer.
  10. @Torgeir I don't understand what you are saying. To review, things are better when combing is turned off (more retractions happening, more hops happening). Are you saying that because the print job is slightly slower (with combing off) that the printer has more time to keep the nozzle hot? That seems unlikely - the difference in print speed is pretty small (11 minutes out of almost 4 hours).
  11. just cut 2mm off the end of the bowden and then put it back in. No need to buy a new bowden. The S5 bowdens are significantly longer than the UMO,UM2,UM3,S3 models which have the same length bowden. Also since you are doing this on the feeder end, you should maybe chamfer the inside of the bowden using a countersink drill bit. Or even better just use an exacto blade to cut a chamfer inside the bowden to help guide the filament into the bowden. Either way, clean it up with an exacto as you don't want a tiny piece of PFA tubing making it's way to your nozzle and causing an annoyi
  12. It should print in the center by default. When you add an STL it should put it in the center. Is it printing in the corner? If so then... Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center". Also check the dimensions of your bed - for example, if it says your bed is 100mm wide but it is actually 200mm wide then it will be printing on the left half of your print bed. The dimensions should not be the actual dimensions of your print bed but the range of motion for the axes
  13. Most likely you need to lower minimum layer time. By the way this is a relatively good feature - quality can go down if you don't give the previous layer time to cool but I think lowering it to 3 seconds should be okay.
  14. Oh!! That changes everything. Do you have one of those $10 IR temp guns? point it at the back of the printer and let us know the air temp if you can. Yeah don't use an enclosure with PLA. It's hard enough to keep things cool with the side fans at full blast but a top cover and a heated bed can result in air temps around 100F which is just too hot for a UM2 series printer. I mean that's great for printing higher temp materials but not for PLA which gets soft at 52C (130F). Inside the teflon part and I think even just above you are seeing temps above 52C and that is causing the
  15. I don't have any Creality printers so I can't help you there. I don't actually sell Ultimaker's but I do sell nozzles. I know you think it's Cura but you've managed to convince me it's not Cura. Something like millions of people use Cura and I *do* listen to the issues and I understand why you are convinced it's Cura. Your thinking is quite logical. But it's not Cura. I was actually hoping it was Cura and that you found a new bug but you managed to convince me it's not Cura especially now that Greg tried your print with an Ender 3. Most likely it's a com
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