Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


gr5 last won the day on February 24

gr5 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,556 Excellent

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. In "mesh fixes" make sure "union overlapping volumes" is unchecked.
  2. He means reboot your whole computer that you are running Cura on. It could also be that the SD card is write locked. Try saving instead to your hard drive and dragging the file onto the SD card and see if that also won't work.
  3. https://fbrc8.com/products/heated-bed-panel-and-cableum3-um3x Okay I can see in the picture at the above link that it's a press fit connection. I'd fill those connectors with a bit of solder as it seems to me that's the most likely point of failure. You could check the other end of the cable under the printer but with the print bed going up and down often and with experience from my UM2 heated bed failure I suspect those press fit connectors (or whatever they are called). Again - the smaller 2 wires - where they connect to the heated bed in the photo above.
  4. er14 is definitely related to build plate. Not cores. Not print head. If you go to the web page it's pretty clear it is seeing max temp. Which is something like 500C. Which means your house has been placed in a furnace. Or there is a problem reading the temp sensor. If there is an open (for example broken wire) you will get this error. Usually the problem happens right at the connector. I'd take apart the print bed and unscrew the cable and carefully remove the build plate without twisting the wires too much. The larger 2 wires go to the heater. Your problem is
  5. To make your "slots" more vertical set horizontal expansion to a positive value. To make the slots wider/horizontal set horizontal expansion to a postive value. Horizontal expansion only expands your part in X and Y but not Z. It's not like scaling. It makes all walls thicker and everything thicker. It doesn't affect dimensions in Z. In the pictures you posted, the display only showed the *center* of the extruded traces and didn't show the line width applied so it makes your horizontal holes look wide even though they shouldn't be in real life. You shoul
  6. @baroberts - also what is the actual nozzle width of your printer and what is "line width" set to in your cura settings? Ideally you want them to be the same value. If line width is large it does something very similar to setting "horizontal expansion" to a negative value.
  7. @baroberts - that 3mf file is created from some version of cura not compatible with the latest (4.8). Are you using the alpha version of cura? I don't want to install that right now - check your "horizontal expansion" setting. Also try cura 4.8 and slice with that. If horizontal expansion values are all zero and you still have the problem then try cura 4.8 and if you still have the problem then post the project file created with cura 4.8 please.
  8. I don't know but the 0.9 deg steppers doesn't matter. This only affects the setting "steps/mm" which is on the printer itself and should be already in the firmware before they ship the printer. It's probably the same printer profile as for the other biqu printer (if it's in cura already). It's up to companies that make these printers to get them added into cura or to provide instructions on how to setup your printer in cura. Perhaps they published instructions. Likely (hopefully) they did.
  9. I suspect it's an illusion due to the fact that it shows the filament infinitely thin. Although it's possible you set "horizontal expansion" to a negative value. Please share your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.
  10. How do you know it's the heat bed and not the nozzle that is giving the "maxtemp" error? If it doesn't mention the bed it could be the nozzle in the error. Well you can print without heating the bed if you put blue tape on the print bed. This can get you started for now. "blue tape" is any painting tape from the paint store. It's important to wash the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol before you start printing - this removes the waxy surface so your filament will stick to it. Just a quick 5 second cleaning using a tissue and IPA is fine. You have to relevel after applying blue
  11. That's the problem with support. There's not much you can do where support touches your model however... You can rotate these models. Have you considered a different rotation? You might be able to print with zero support in certain orientations. Or if not then at least you can pick which side is uglier. Or you can buy a printer with dual extrusion and use a different material for the support (like breakaway or PVA).
  12. That tower - because it's so small - might need extra cooling (100% fan) or even print a second tower just to the side of the print so the tower layers have a few more seconds to cool before the next layer is placed on top.
  13. GOOD START! 40C air temp is perfect. Don't go much hotter or you risk damaging your servos. 40C should be fine though. Excellent temp for ABS (by the way I recommend you pick a different material than ABS but that's another subject). 215C is much too cold. 240C is more reasonable. What is your fan speed? Did you turn the fan off? If so then that's the problem. That small tower needs extra cooling. Normally I recommend around 1/4 power so I listen to the noise the fan makes at 100% and keep lowering it until it sounds much quieter. 25% is NOT necessarily 1/4 po
  14. On the second link above they mention that you can make things even more flexible with 3d printing because with 3d printing you don't have to (and usually don't anyway) make prints 100% solid. So you can probably get away with higher shore hardnesses than you would use in a normal shoe product. So I would start with TPU as it's very popular, Ultimaker I think sells a TPU filament and it's MUCH easier to print than the even-more-flexible filaments.
  15. 40A is pretty soft. Keep in mind you have to push this material through the bowden and if it's too soft it just is like pushing a rubber band through a hole. It's going to get all wavy/kinky and fold over itself. Googling found me this page. Ninjaflex (shore 85A?) is the softest material I've printed and it was quite difficult. I can't imagine pushing something even softer through the bowden. https://filaments.ca/blogs/3d-printing/15475957-shore-hardness-of-flexible-3d-printing-materials I did see a 74A material here: https://www.3dprinteros.com/what-is-t
  • Create New...