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Everything posted by gr5

  1. Oops - you don't have rounded corners. So actually I guess you would *want* rounded corners to avoid that extra movements. Both on the inside and outside maybe? The corners are technically thicker so it's printing thicker there.
  2. Okay so I managed to open your project in cura 4.7.1 and I get the same results you got. Those weird corners are because when you select "print thin walls". Print thin walls is basically doing a kind of infill pattern (versus a shell pattern where it just traces the outer wall). The corners are a little thicker maybe because of the rounded corners so the slicer is doing a kind of infill pattern there to get the full corner. I tried lying about your nozzle width and set it to 0.1mm but it still refuses to print the walls with "print thin walls" disabled. This seems like a bug b
  3. I'm not getting those coasting lines you seem to be getting. If it's not coasting it's a similar feature. I'll try loading a newer cura to see if I can load your settings. This is method 2 (again, I recommend method 1 if you can pull it off and this geometry, a cube, works well with method 1):
  4. Did you read the entire posting that fast and then post another screen shot that fast? Did you really read the whole post that fast? I hadn't even finished re-reading the post. Yikes. Okay so when you drag the horizontal slider the whole part goes gray so I can't see what's going on. Please also move the vertical scroll so there is no gray but I recommend you try method 1 above. You will get much better results with the printer making the walls in ONE PASS instead of two passes.
  5. So I downloaded your attached file but it doesn't seem to be a project file? Or maybe I need to install a newer Cura to open it. Anyway it DID show me your model. The model has 11 surfaces. I expected 6 surfaces. You misunderstood me when I said "cube". Okay... let's start over. There is some problem with communication here. I didn't describe something properly. There are 2 ways to achieve what you want. The "normal" way or the "vase" way. You are combining the two methods to get a disaster. You can't combine the two methods. You have to pick one
  6. Again, please set "color scheme" to "line type". Those weird moves are almost surely coasting and will show up in blue. but I want to be sure. This setting is found in the line just below where it says "PREPARE" and "PREVIEW".
  7. By the way, line width, layer height also affects adhesion. If you lay down a thick layer it's easier for it to melt the layer below. If the layer is super thin and you print slow the nozzle actually can melt the layer below directly.
  8. 230C sounds too cold. 240C might be better. Not sure: I strongly advise you do some experiments to test layer adhesion as this is a common problem with ABS. Print a small tower 1cm by 1cm and maybe 5cm tall. then break it like one would break a pencil. You might need some tools. See how well the fracture follows layer lines. If it doesn't follow layer lines at all then you have achieved perfect adhesion Score=10. If it follows a single layer then Score=0. If it mostly follows layers but switches to a second part way through the fraction it gets a score=1. And so on. Pla
  9. Yeah - I still don't know what I am seeing. I can't think of any scenario to create that photo. I need to see it from other angles. Maybe see it in PREVIEW screen shot also. Sometimes a photo is worth a thousand words but this time it's just a confusing picture of something that doesn't make sense. Something I haven't seen before in 3d printing.
  10. That is... strange. Well please don't use vase mode. Print normal mode, disable top and disable infill. If it still has issues like this in the corner then people might notice. But vase mode is less likely to draw the attention of cura developers. Turn off coasting (as a minimum to see if that fixes this issue), turn off hop and retraction on layer change. If it's still doing it please post another screen shot (but with colors set to "line type" please). Also save your project ("file" "save...") and post the project file here. project files contain your stl, your printer set
  11. Yes I wish "priming line" was a feature in Cura and it was enabled by default. Better than those prime blobs. Although usually the prime blob works just fine for me and stays far from the print.
  12. I'm always adjusting the 3 screws when the printer is doing the bottom layer. The first few times it's very difficult. By the 100th time I don't think. I just do. I have to level often because I'm changing nozzles on my UM2 printers often. the difference in nozzle thickness is tiny but enough that it's worth readjusting the 3 screws.
  13. Can't you just add another 2 lines to your brim? The brim always prints the outside first for this very reason. What am I missing?
  14. I've never had this problem but I've only gone through about 3 spools of PVA over the years. I've been told that dry PVA gets brittle and can break. It might be that your spool is over a year old but I have 1 year old pva that is still fine. Anyway I would first assume that only the outer meter or two is brittle. So I would try breaking it manually and then unspool a bit and repeat the experiment for a meter or two (and throw all that away) and see if it gets better. If not loosing the spool a bit so air can get down into the top 2 or so layers of the spool and leave
  15. Yes - cura literally slices your model into 2 dimensional slices by intersecting a plane with the triangles in the STL (an STL is a list of unordered triangles in 3 dimensional space). This gives you a bunch of unordered lines. Cura next tries to string those lines into loops (but there's tiny floating discrepencies due to rounding/precision errors). then it creates a "shell" path on the "solid side" of those loops (sometimes just inside, sometimes just outside if the loop describes a hole int hepart). So it always does 2 paths. Always. Hopefully some day Cura will get smarter
  16. By the way, @burtoogle hasn't posted in the forum for 6 weeks (which is a lot for him). But he's still alive as he's still doing stuff on github.
  17. Try running it from a "terminal" window so you can see the error messages.
  18. That doesn't help. Are they on the same layer? How many layers apart? Did you use support or did this just print in mid-air? Maybe show from another angle? Are we looking at 3 different levels/layers?
  19. Yeah I get errors all the time in the console window but I ignore them as cura seems to work fine. Here are my errors for today: geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/Downloads$ ./Cura-mb-master-20190424.AppImage qml: TableViewSelection: index out of range qml: TableViewSelection: index out of range Trying to create a QVariant instance of QMetaType::Void type, an invalid QVariant will be constructed instead I assume windows people get errors also but they are probably in the log file so they don't notice.
  20. I guess another option would be to print two of these "bracelets" at the same time so that one can cool down while printing the other but... fan is probably better. What is the temp of your heated bed? I usually like 110C for ABS to get it to stick well, and to heat the air in the chamber well, but 110C can also give you that bowing inward - particularly if your fan is off.
  21. Oh. That. Well it's related to the heated bed and cooling. You could try upping the cooling fan a bit. Did you say it was off? If the fan is off that would explain it. You want the fan on a very low level. Pretty much the lowest you can get. Alternatively you could lower the bed temp by 10C but then your part might not stick as well or you might get worse layer adhesion due to cooler air temp. So really - more fan is probably a better option. You just want a little bit of fan.
  22. The preview screenshot doesn't perfectly show reality. On purpose. So you can see the paths. It shows what your part would look like if it underextruded a bit. Your upper photo of the bottom of your white part is about as good as you can get it. I think that's the best you can get with FFF printing. The lower photo - that looks more serious. I'm not sure what is going on there - it looks like we are seeing the second layer? Is this a view from the bottom of the print also? If so then I feel like we are seeing the second layer maybe in the corner? I guess I need to see what
  23. Mark a spot on the filament. Extrude forwards 30mm. See how far that spot moved - use a ruler. Don't measure *after* it comes out of the nozzle. Measure somewhere further back where the filament hasn't melted yet.
  24. You should only need the appimage file. There is no installer - you just execute that file. ".appimage" on linux is like ".exe" on windows. It just runs as is. But you need to set the execution bit so start a terminal window, locate the file on your ras pi (something like "cd Downloads") and do: chmod 774 Cura-mb-master-armhf-20201111.AppImage Then to run it do: ./Cura-mb-master-armhf-20201111.AppImage
  25. Something is wrong. In the video it is STILL DOING COMBING moves. Maybe that's on purpose? So another option is to do retraction on combing moves. This next setting I suspect is only in the "smartavionics" version of Cura. I've used it before (I need it when printing over 200mm/sec). It's very useful. It will eliminate those dots that you are printing on the combing move. Set: "Max comb distance with no retract" to a small value like 5mm. It will still comb. But it will also retract so it won't leak so much. Again you might have to get the special version of cu
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