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Everything posted by gr5

  1. You simply change "line width" setting in Cura. I recommend starting with 0.25mm line width. In general you can do 75% to 150% of any nozzle size so 0.2mm to 0.35 should be a reasonable range. But stick to 0.25 if that is a reasonable accuracy for you. Take note there are many line widths. Make sure you aware of them all (just type "line" in the settings search box and relevant settings will suddenly appear even if they aren't normally visible). I recommend infill line widths are the same. Changing line widths mid print is "bad" because you will then get a brief overextrusion
  2. We prefer not to delete postings like this as they can help other people with similar questions. In fact your post is particularly informative.
  3. If you don't mind losing all your old settings, I'd delete all that and then restart cura (absolutely no need to reinstall). Cura puts settings I think in 2 locations and I forget which location you need to delete. You can google around on this forum (if you say site:ultimaker.com google only gives you results from this website and that's mostly this forum). Anyway I think it's all here but if this doesn't work google around for the other folder: %APPDATA%\cura\ (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\ Delete all vers
  4. Have you ever installed older versions of Cura?
  5. It's unlikely to be the stepper motor but possible. Particularly if you enclosed the printer with enough insulation to get the air temp well over 40C. If you feel more friction in the Y axis than the left axis then that is definitely the problem. You need to start taking everything apart in the gantry and figure this out. Actually first thing - check that the two smaller diameter rods going through the print head are perpendicular. Sometimes a belt skips a tooth. There are great videos and descriptions showing how to take the gantry apart. Look around.
  6. Actually I think maybe the filament is too dry. Some UM PVA filaments (my spools of PVA are fine by the way) are too brittle and can crack in the bowden. I've heard good things about aquasys water soluble filaments but never tried it.
  7. If you follow all the recommendations in the article and it still won't fit then you are out of luck. It looks to me like the issue is in the back right corner where the nozzle changer is - if it prints there it will hit. Maybe if you rotate the part 90 degrees CCW so that the curved part is where the nozzle-changer-keep-away-zone is.
  8. Did you get infill wipe distance and the other settings in the link above?
  9. What geert_2 said. Add a drop of oil to the 4 large and 2 thin rods. But more likely the problem is you need to tighten the set screws on the pulleys. It looks like the Y axis so only work on those. It's almost always the screw on the stepper motor itself. You can get to that screw without taking anything apart if you move the head around by hand until the screw lines up and using a long hex driver to get down in there. Tighten the hell out of that set screw! Much tighter than you would think is necessary. If you were to use a little L shaped allen wre
  10. You have 2 issues. The first issue is that the walls are too thin for your "line width". Line width should be the same as nozzle size within a range of 75% to 150% so if your nozzle is 0.4mm you can go down to 0.3mm line width without losing much quality. Also you can check the option "print thin lines" that will let you print even thinner walls. You can experiment with setting nozzle width smaller and smaller until it prints those letters but if you go much below 0.3mm quality will suffer. Alternatively you can set "horiztonal expansion" to say 1mm and those walls should print
  11. set "travel avoid distance" to zero. disable brim and skirt both details here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura
  12. Sorry I didn't check the STL but I think the walls are just a little too thin. Try setting "horizontal expansion" to 1mm just as a quick test and then playing with that. Or alternatively, try setting "line width" to smaller and smaller values until it slices. It's okay to have line width at 75% of nozzle size - print quality won't suffer much. So 0.3mm line width for a 0.4mm nozzle.
  13. The latest version of that Cura was 15.04.06 (refers to the release date meaning April 2015 6th version that month)
  14. I don't know but what I do know is this: STL files do not store units. There is no unit. Cura assumes the unit is mm. Most CAD programs allow you to choose the unit when you save to the STL file (this is different from the working unit in the same CAD program which could be for example inches). When you load an STL, if it is "too small" it enlarges by I think 100X (which is 10000%). I'm not sure what "too small" is but I think around 3mm maybe? This 100X option is in the cura preferences (not the slicing settings) and can be disabled. If you know th
  15. Again, I don't think vacuum bags will help. You need dessicant. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dessicant&qid=1620530771&sr=8-4 Also once you get water in the filament, no amount of vacuum or dessicant will help - you need to heat it as I describe above.
  16. I probably can't help you much because for my use I really don't care about bumps and don't really pay any attention to them but I noticed all those strange travel moves to the right. What's that about? Please post your project file so I can see all your settings. Do "file" "save project as..." and please post that here. If your goal is to get bumps on a benchy then you did everything right - you got a huge printer, you printed in shiny black filament and went for extra thin layers. That's the perfect combination for the most visible bumps. If you go for white filam
  17. I don't know about temperature. slice and save it as gcode and look at all the M gcodes. See if it heats up before or after your bit of code. There are variables you can use and Cura will substitute - something like M109 S{first_layer_bed_temperature} See this post for more info:
  18. Looks perfect except E100 is much too much extrusion - this is the distance the filament moves and even if you have 1.75mm filament (would be even worse for 3mm filament) that's much too much extrusion. You need to do some math. 290mm of travel X (I assume you have 0.4 nozzle) 0.4 X 0.15 = 17.4 cubic mm of filament. Now assuming 1.75mm filament... 17.4 / (area of filament) = 17.4 / (3.14 * (1.75/2)^2) = 7.24mm So if you extrude 7.24mm of filament it will be the exact right amount (E7.24 not E100) However you want to overextrude by 30 to 100% so
  19. The UM3 levels 3 axis (tip, tilt, height). the S3/S5 also detects "hills" and "valleys" in the glass and corrects for these as well: grid compensation. The sensor is the same. But you can't disable autoleveling on the S3/S5 (well you can but it's a pretty serious hack) but you can disable it on the UM3.
  20. I don't know about .net. I doubt it. The slicer is mostly pure C++ and the GUI portion is I think in qt and python. I don't know if qt uses .net but I doubt it. But basically I don't know the answer.
  21. I disagree. Several times. In my posts above. Please please please post a project file so I can try to duplicate your issue. Again - your part was too big but in theory you can just scale it down to 90% (that's an option in cura - you don't have to do anything in cad). I did that myself but then I didn't get your triangle issue. So please duplicate your issue on a smaller part (or the existing part scaled down somewhat) and then post the project file and then lets see if greg or I can duplicate your issue. If so then we can all 3 post in gitub issues and they cura software gu
  22. There are no instructions above to print a line on your print bed. It should home the axes then move the head 15mm above the bed (where it says "move the platform down 15mm" which is silly since many printers it's the nozzle that moves and homing may be in the other direction but whatever). Then it extrudes 3mm of filament (in the air - above your print bed) then it starts printing your part. This is to prime the nozzle. No "line"
  23. That's called a brim. (like a hat brim) It's very useful - especially for novices to help keep your part sticking to the print bed. You don't need it for smaller parts but will likely need it for parts that are over 150mm in at least on direction (x or y). Bed adhesion is a complicated issue. Anyway - you can get rid of it at your own peril by changing the "build plate adhesion type" to "skirt" instead which is similar but won't touch the part. The skirt is to get the flow moving in an equilibrium state so I recommend doing the skirt as a minimum.
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