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Everything posted by gr5

  1. I have good news for you - I believe that the new Cura beta (alpha?) version 5 does this (aka Arachne). Try it out. There is a good reason that cura has never been able to do this but I don't want to get into it unless you really want to know. Just trust me that it's a pretty good reason. But what you ask for has been asked by so many thousands (millions?) of people. And now I believe (I'm not certain) that Arachne can do this. Maybe. By the way you *can* print 0.4mm walls with a 0.4mm nozzle using Cura if you choose print thin walls but it still does 2 passes.
  2. So in short - you are using the printer beyond it's expected abilities. Add a fan to your filter or just get rid of the cover. Or don't print PLA (but PLA is the easiest and the best material). That cover is bad for PLA but won't hurt if you are printing PETG and is actually helpful for Nylon (but now you are printing too hot and the teflon part in the print head won't last nearly as long). Ideally stick with PLA and remove the cover but if you really want the cover then add a fan to the filter.
  3. If you do remove that outer wall then those very thin walls may fall over. There are several different support pattern options: grid, lines, etc. Did you play with that? It looks like you chose lines Well I tried to duplicate your support structure and I can't. I tried a whole bunch of support settings and mine don't have those walls. Please post your project file (it will contain your model, your printer settings, your profile, and your setting overrides). Go to menu "file" "save project..." and post that file here. Also what version of Cura are y
  4. @Smithy - does UM2+C have pause feature? I think UM3, S3, S5 all have it but not sure about UM2+C.
  5. Sorry I've never used the backup plugin. I don't save my settings in "profiles" but instead save them in "projects" and those get backed up along with everything else I care about on my computer.
  6. @Torgeir I don't understand what you are saying. To review, things are better when combing is turned off (more retractions happening, more hops happening). Are you saying that because the print job is slightly slower (with combing off) that the printer has more time to keep the nozzle hot? That seems unlikely - the difference in print speed is pretty small (11 minutes out of almost 4 hours).
  7. just cut 2mm off the end of the bowden and then put it back in. No need to buy a new bowden. The S5 bowdens are significantly longer than the UMO,UM2,UM3,S3 models which have the same length bowden. Also since you are doing this on the feeder end, you should maybe chamfer the inside of the bowden using a countersink drill bit. Or even better just use an exacto blade to cut a chamfer inside the bowden to help guide the filament into the bowden. Either way, clean it up with an exacto as you don't want a tiny piece of PFA tubing making it's way to your nozzle and causing an annoyi
  8. It should print in the center by default. When you add an STL it should put it in the center. Is it printing in the corner? If so then... Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center". Also check the dimensions of your bed - for example, if it says your bed is 100mm wide but it is actually 200mm wide then it will be printing on the left half of your print bed. The dimensions should not be the actual dimensions of your print bed but the range of motion for the axes
  9. Most likely you need to lower minimum layer time. By the way this is a relatively good feature - quality can go down if you don't give the previous layer time to cool but I think lowering it to 3 seconds should be okay.
  10. Oh!! That changes everything. Do you have one of those $10 IR temp guns? point it at the back of the printer and let us know the air temp if you can. Yeah don't use an enclosure with PLA. It's hard enough to keep things cool with the side fans at full blast but a top cover and a heated bed can result in air temps around 100F which is just too hot for a UM2 series printer. I mean that's great for printing higher temp materials but not for PLA which gets soft at 52C (130F). Inside the teflon part and I think even just above you are seeing temps above 52C and that is causing the
  11. I don't have any Creality printers so I can't help you there. I don't actually sell Ultimaker's but I do sell nozzles. I know you think it's Cura but you've managed to convince me it's not Cura. Something like millions of people use Cura and I *do* listen to the issues and I understand why you are convinced it's Cura. Your thinking is quite logical. But it's not Cura. I was actually hoping it was Cura and that you found a new bug but you managed to convince me it's not Cura especially now that Greg tried your print with an Ender 3. Most likely it's a com
  12. So this is a great thread! Okay so I didn't notice the Z hop but I see it now in the gcode. At first I was - it has to be the zhop because... well it does *more* hops if you turn off combing so that doesn't make sense. And I checked and there are hops on the layers below as well! So that doesn't make sense. But in general, zhop should only be used on delta printers. I strongly recommend you turn that off and if you think you need it, let me know why you think you need it. For example sometimes the head hits other areas of the print but there are other solutions to fix that.
  13. "sponge" sounds like "underextrusion" and has too many causes. I mean here are some examples for a different printer but many of these will be relevant for your printer:
  14. Bugs/errors will be ignored if you are the only one experiencing it. People have to duplicate it first. I have no trouble with combing and I print a LOT of parts. Your issue is very unique to me. I think the shape of the part exacerbates the problem as you have this large flat layer and then smaller parts just above that are long enough to have warping. But I don't know for sure. I'm hoping you will come up with a part that only takes an hour or two to print and experiences this issue because I don't want to print a 5 hour print to find that my printer has absolutely no issue with it.
  15. I noticed you have 5mm of retraction. That seems like too much. On the much bigger Ultimaker 2 I use 4.5mm of retraction and that is a LONG bowden compared to the Ender 3 bowden. About twice as long. I would think around 2.5mm or 3mm would be about right? You want it to retract just enough so that the filament doesn't come out of the hot end. If it does then air goes into the nozzle and you get overextrusion for maybe 10 seconds as the air heats up in the nozzle followed by underextrusion for maybe 10 seconds when the air bubble is the only thing extruding. Although this woul
  16. @Ste_297 - this is the slowest conversation ever. Please note that I usually stop reading a thread after about 7 days so I'm adding this note just to keep it going but after another 7 days you can reply and I probably won't notice unless you send me a direct message.
  17. lol! No I meant let it try to boot for at least 10 minutes. when you upgrade sometimes the upgrade procedure reads all your matieral profiles and translates them (or something) to the latest format for the latest firmware. That step can take 5 or 10 minutes for some reason. But seriously - severaly people have had problems with upgrades but when they power cycle the printer 2 or 3 more times suddenly it is working fine. I have no idea why.
  18. What is the air temp in your room? Is it like 25C (too hot!)?
  19. Yeah. Teflon. That final picture is helpful. Also - are you sure that 3rd fan is working? stick a piece of paper in there 3 times during your print to hear the paper buzz. Or stop the fan with your finger to know what to listen for.
  20. So now you are saying the printer works fine with Cura except that you have to wait for the bed to heat up? Is that the only "bug"? There is a trick to get the nozzle to start heating up when the bed gets to a particular temperature but is that the only thing you care about?
  21. Greg's request still applies here.
  22. So I spent 20 minutes looking at the gcode anyway. Nothing is obvious. Looking at this picture below I can see you have pretty bad underextrusion. Particularly the outer shell. It looks like 60% filament then a 40% gap so you are only extruding like 60% of what is needed (40% underextrusion). In the top left corner of the picture you can see the surface there is about 70% underextruded as well. What is happening is the ends of each "line" are over extruding a bit and then it accelerates and in the center it is moving much faster and underextrudes as the pressure in the nozzle
  23. Sorry I really really need the project file. Not gcode or model. Can you make a smaller model that has the same problem? Just a 2cm by 2cm square that is maybe 1cm tall and then a smaller cube on top of that? Every model you slice, going forwards, when you save the gcode please also save the project file such that you can always go back (I do this - I use project files the way other people use profiles).
  24. Wow - 2 problems with a brand new printer? This is really rare. Even just having loose set screws is rare. They have to be very very tight by the way - particularly the ones on the stepper - so tight you are afraid something might break (the screw or the tool). You should contact your reseller about the filament thing. They should have support staff. I have an S5 but without the material station so I'm not an expert on that whole procedure. Does the filament reach the print head? Does it come out of the nozzle when you are loading the filament (part of the procedur
  25. Maybe show a video of the problem. I've done this a few times and it always works perfectly. You need to "shove" the head switch into the lift mechanism before continuing the procedure. If it still doesn't work after a few tries, try to do "reset all printer settings" and then try again (you will lose your XY calibration data).
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