Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by gr5

  1. Yikes. But you make it sound like you have to have the distributor slice the files for you?
  2. There's no mystery. They pop out of the slider blocks. There are I believe newer slider blocks although this is irrelevant. If your printer is still under warranty you should be able to get a set of blocks and belts plus instructrions for free. Even if outside warranty - possibly it's free. Contact your reseller. And they aren't that expensive either way. Check for cracks on the blocks. Even if no cracks they are popping out too easily. There are temporary fixes like this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cracked-slide-block-cap
  3. Wait are you really using cura 15 with an S5? You will need to use a newer version of cura if you are printing on an S5 but the instructions are basically the same except your parts need to be *shorter* than the gantry height in device settings.
  4. 15.04.6!!! Nice! That's a good version! From 2015. I remember it well. Well go into machine settings and set gantry height to something taller than your prints and set the 4 distances (something like left/right/top/bottom) - the 4 distances from the nozzle to the edge of your head - to the actual values and make sure your parts are farther apart then those distances indicate (cura will extend the shadow of the part based on those 4 numbers). Then it will indeed do "one at a time". You can use the scroller to see that it prints all of one part before starting the second part.
  5. Yes! Just resolder that last pad. I'd ohm out the resistance first (just probe the right 2 screws in the photo) and then resolder. I think it's 150 watts? So I think it's around 4 ohms when cold. I also have had to resolder these after a year or so of use. This is the "older" version of the UM2 print bed. The newer versions fixed these issues.
  6. @Gelingling - what kind of printer do you have? If not an Ultimaker then I recommend youtube.
  7. So typically the bottom layer is leveled on purpose such that it will squish extra hard. This is so you squish the bottom layer more which causes parts to stick better. So lowering flow to 75% may result in your parts not sticking as well.
  8. So if changing layer height slowly helps a print then changing the velocity could counter balance that. Maybe.
  9. @curasurf - you are totally correct. Multiply those 3 numbers to get the volumetric flow. If the volumetric flow is constant then the speed of the extruder is constant and the flow is constant. However of course you slow down on corners. the printer doesn't actually go at the full speed requested. It slows down on every corner based on the individual printers setting for "jerk" and acceleration. Also when there is a travel move, flow goes to zero briefly.
  10. It's pretty easy to have multiple versions of cura. At least for me. As long as you don't create any profiles. I don't create profiles - I use project files which in my opinion are much better. Is it possible that your STL has a stray triangle "under" the part somewhere? Or even just a line (triangle where all 3 points are colinear).
  11. You need to take notes because the next time you update cura you may lose everything.
  12. Can you post the log files please? Just ones with the word "boot" in the filename. Also please post the exact gcode file that generated this error - I want to check line 31391. Did you print over network or from USB flash drive? If from USB, please copy the file off the USB stick as it may be corrupted on that line of code but only in the gcode file that is on the USB.
  13. Did you look at your print in PREVIEW Mode? Sometimes when you slice a part with, for example, thin walls nothing actually gets printed. When you say "i've printed these items before" did you reslice? Or is this old gcode?
  14. You are using extra priming? I've never used that. You shouldn't need that. I thought you fixed it by reducing the retraction distance?
  15. I would personally do 0.2mm layers to save time. Thinner layers doesn't always increase quality. So it's still not printing all of the jacket? You can also set "horizontal expansion" to something like 0.2 or 0.5 or even 1mm. This will deform the face a bit - it makes the whole model a little larger and the jacket a little thicker. But I think the face will probably still look about the same? You have to experiment. 0.3 is pretty low if you have a 0.4 or 0.5 nozzle so personally I'd probably bring that back up to 0.35 for a 0.4 nozzle and play with horizontal expans
  16. Yes I'm familiar with the "dragging across lower line and snapping". I've seen it many times. Cura tends to make infill at like 2X printing speed so I'd try even slower - 20% - just to see what happens. Also you want the fan as low as possible but still turning. Check your infill line width! I didn't think of that - but cura can do some really stupid things like setting that to a different value than the rest of the print. Make sure it is the same as your normal line width. Or wider. It could just be a bad brand of filament? Different types of p
  17. Regarding #1 - leveling is sensitive to electromagnetic radiation so keep laptops, cell phones, other electronics at least 10 cm away from the printer to see if that helps. Sometimes you have to replace the larger PCB inside the head (I think - not certain). Your reseller can help you out there. They can sell you any part even though they don't usually show all the parts on their website.
  18. Ultimaker 3 can do manual leveling which I find to be just as good and much faster than active leveling (since you only have to manual level once per month or so). So that can solve issue 1 and 3 potentially. Buying a new BB can solve issue 2 but BB cores aren't too hard to clean. In the maintenance menu on the printer you can do hot and cold pulls for that BB core. I recommend that. What happens is that PVA when at printing temps slowly (over many minutes or even hours if you haven't used that core for weeks) caramelizes into brown and black gunk that has trouble go
  19. I've seen this before with PLA. It usually happens when I print too fast. It can sometimes be improved by over extruding but mostly it's fixed by slowing down. Try printing the infill at 1/2 or even 1/4 speed you are printing now and see if that helps. I haven't had this problem with PETG but maybe I print too slow to see this.
  20. The first time I tried this, windows went into screen saver mode 1 hour into the print and it was ruined. I turned the screen saver off and was successful. Another time I hit the power saving thing where it spins down the hard drive and goes to sleep. Face palm. Okay, another print ruined this time 3 hours into the print. Then later a print was ruined because windows decided to update some BS windows office things but I don't even have windows office???? WTF. That was the last straw. Never again. that's the biggest "con". Then there's the issue you are afraid to do anything
  21. Don't do the "overhang printable" thing. That's a disaster. Make darn sure that is turned off. It will make major changes to your model. Massive changes in some spots. You might not notice right away.
  22. Is this your model? If so I'd fill in the gap between the jacket and the body. Anyway - the probelm is that the jacket is too thin in some places. Try enabling "print thin walls" and that's probably enough. If not then try also lowering your line width. For example a 0.4mm nozzle can print down to about 0.3mm without losing too much quality.
  23. There's a ton of support related settings. For example you can set the support x/y distance to a few mm to have it not support embossed letters and extra small features. You can set the support overhang angle - I usually set it to 70 or 80 (actually I usually disable support). And there's also the support blocker - over on the left side of the screen. Go to PREPARE mode and add some support blockers and stretch them and move them around. Have them enclose any red areas (red in PREPARE view) that you don't want supported.
  24. Sorry - wrong files. Among all those files there should have been a few that ended with something like: boot0.log boot1.log (or maybe boot0.log.zip). I think the files all start with "Ultimaker". All those "cap" files can be deleted. They are just data from active leveling. Not interesting unless you have active levelling failures. The only thing interesting so far is the dmesg.log but I think it only contains everything since the most recent boot. I assume you got the error a few days ago? Warning that the boot0 one will have the most recent day or two and boot1 will b
  • Create New...