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Everything posted by gr5

  1. It *is* possible to downgrade a UM3, @kevin-osborn, but it's difficult because the whole process changed in 5.2. So if you are a version older than 5.2 it's easy to downgrade and if you are at version 6.0 (in the future some day) it should be easy to downgrade to 5.2 but no lower. Anyway to downgrade across this boundary is more involved. You need to remove the bottom cover and you need a micro-sd card and special software on your pc/mac/linux machine to create a boot partition on the micro-sd. Versions you can downgrade to are listed here: http://software.ultimaker.com/jedi/releases/ Process is here:
  2. What version of cura @Fortunato ?
  3. Possibly you have to reboot your printer after inserting the SD card?
  4. @starbuck - you should never get a head flood. Here is some complex and important advice to keep your parts from ever coming loose again:
  5. This is called a "head flood". It's somewhat common on UM3 and S5. No one knows how common. It's never happened to me and I've been using the UM3 for years and S5 since it first came out. UM considers cores to be "consumables" like filament (costs about the same as 3 spools of UM filament). You could consider a 3dsolex core which should last longer but you broke these at the heat break which is not any stronger on the 3dsolex cores. The cause of a head flood - there are 2 possible causes: 1) Your part comes loose from the bed during a print at a moment when the part is wider than it is tall. The head then carries the part around like a hockey puck. People tell me this is the most common cause by far. The solution is to NEVER have parts come loose from the glass. I sometimes have chunks of glass embedded in my print, but my prints never come loose. I have a video of how to achieve this if you are interested. 2) The door fell open and it started extruding into the door. You may have weak magnets or they might not be touching the vertical screw or maybe your door is not angled properly (you can bend the metal portion of the door such that it closes better). You can pry the magnets out 0.5mm and that might help. It's hard to tell the difference between #1 and #2 because in both cases the door is open when you come back to the printer.
  6. I don't know how to affect the bottom layer but here are a few other things... 1) After autolevel is complete but before it prints much of your print, you could turn the 3 leveling screws clockwise from below to move the glass down and away from the nozzle. I do that sometimes. Then when the print is done turn it back. Each full rotation is .5mm. Usually I do about 1/6 rotation. Turn them all the same amount. 2) If you make the bottom layer thicker (default is I think 0.27mm) then even if it's overextruding a bit at least there is more space to deal with it. Forcing the extruder to underextrude by 10% is no big deal. So if the glass is too close by 10% then it will be absolutely fine. Even 50% is usually fine. So making the bottom layer thicker lowers that percentage. 3) This shouldn't be an issue. Are you printing PLA? It's okay to overextrude the bottom layer. In fact I love it when the bottom layer is extra thin. That means the part will stick better. If you mess with this with a z-offset your part may come loose which can cause a head flood if the part is wider than tall at the moment it comes loose and it gets carried around like a hockey puck. Quite the disaster. Seriously. I don't think this leveling issue and this "extruder cloggs" issue is related.
  7. cura connect is problematic for me. It seems to work better if you have an ethernet cable but either way it disconnects often (like every few hours). I often go into "manage printers", "connect via network", "refresh" and then I usually have to do nothing else. I just exit out of those and things start working again. Although most people tell me that restarting cura connect works wonders. I'm not sure how to do that.
  8. @SandervG - please see above post.
  9. I don't think it's the gcodes. I think it's a wire that opens up when the head moves to the middle of the print. But first check for all gcodes that start with "M1". There is probably only 10 or 20 in your entire gcode file. And look them all up here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G_code
  10. STL files don't store the units. Even if you designed it in mm in 123D, you may be exporting it in inches or meters or feet. For example if it's in meters and because cura expects mm it will be 1000X too small. So when you export from 123D I think there should be somewhere an option to select the units. Select mm.
  11. So Sander's profile will help a lot but at some point you have to adjust the dimensions in CAD if you want accuracy to 0.1mm or better. If you change filament, change nozzle temperature, change room temperature, all these tolerances will change slightly. The basic problem is that PLA sticks to itself even when liquid - like a liquid rubber band - like snot. AS it's printing the inner vertical holes it is pulled inward because it is also cooling quite a bit in the first millisecond and is already shrinking. So it's like stretching a rubber band around the inside of a circle and it is pulling more inward than you want it to go. You will notice that when printing square holes the corners also are moved inward. You will notice that when printing a cube the *outer* corners also might move inwards (although there is an opposite effect caused because the printer is slowing down and it over extrudes on the corners somewhat but Sander's profile above minimizes this). I know it sounds like a pain to modify the parts in CAD but the same sort of thing is done with injection molding (although more likely by an engineer at the injection molding factory).
  12. Note that tinker marlin allows you to control the power budget. Tell the printer the budget is 175W and the bed is 150W and tell it what the wattage of your two nozzle heaters are and the printer will make sure you don't go over budget. However there is a bug in power budget code and you need the absolute latest tinkerMarlin (well at least version 19.03).
  13. First please don't use the word "backlash". That has a specific meaning. A synonym to backlash is "play". It means something is loose and when it switches direction, nothing happens initially. Like 30 years ago I had a car where there was 1cm of backlash in the steering wheel - when I would pass through from right to left there was a moment where the steering wheel stopped turning the wheels and you could feel it took less force for a moment. Anyway you can call this "feeder clicking" or "feeder skipping back" or "feeder skipping". It's very common with the original UM2 and was "fixed" with the UM2+. Anyway to the problem - when you are doing move material like this it is common for certain filaments so this may be normal. More likely I'm thinking this material is ABS. I have a spool of ABS this exact color. Or this could just be normal. did you try printing with it? If you are getting feeder skipping on the first layer that might be normal but if you get any on the second layer then it's a serious problem and very fixable. Let me know and I can send you the list of underextrusion causes but my first guess is this material is not PLA.
  14. I think you are seeing a pattern that is not there. The blue lines sort-of match what the part looks like but really I think it's a perfect curve except there are 2 horizontal lines each at a different layer. I'm not sure what causes those 2 lines - it could be that the Z axis didn't move the correct amount or it could be under or over extrusion just near this one corner caused by a speed change. If this printer is pretty old I would clean the Z screw and add one drop of oil to each of the vertical rods. If you decide to use tape - use any painters tape - most commonly found in blue but also green (frog tape). You want the widest possible tape. You MUST clean it with isopropyl alcohol. If you don't then the part won't stick very well to the tape and may come loose during printing.
  15. So I would consider maybe turning autolevel off so that you get 100% consistent results. The glass is not as flat as you need. Even if it was, the plate beneath it can easily bend it by 0.5mm from one end to the other. So you would have to flatten the system, not just the glass. UM uses tempered glass - I believe only because it's safer if it does break. But tempered glass isn't as flat because of the way it is made. You can put tiny shims such as washers under the glass and adjust them until you get it flat enough. That is probably the path I would take (shims and tempered glass) combined with disabling autolevel, combined with only using a portion of the bed (tempered glass tends to be thicker in the middle so possibly printing around the edges). Most prints only need leveling to an accuracy of around 0.2mm or 0.1mm. So I suspect autolevel has an accuracy of around 0.1mm or possibly even 0.05mm. Which is of course much to course for you.
  16. This is underextrusion and is the most common problem that people run into with 3d printing. The bottom layer is extra complicated because leveling affects it so much. Your underextrusion is only about 20%. However it looks like you showed us a tiny bit of the second layer as well and it's also underextruding by a bit. The most common cause is simply "printing too cold and too hot". Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C To get no underextrusion at the above speeds your feeder needs to push 3mm filament with about 2kg of force (1.75mm filament with .7kg of force). Most feeders can push twice that hard. So the above speeds are conservative. These temperatures are for Ultimaker2 and different printers differ a huge amount as the nozzle is always cooler than the temp sensor but by how much is different for every hot end design. So another test is to fight the feeder. See how hard you have to pull on the filament to make it slip backwards. This will let you know if the problem is in the cold end or the hot end.
  17. STL files don't specify units. Which is a problem with the STL specification. So there isn't an easy way for Cura to notice. However if the model is too large to fit by say 1000X then cura automatically shrinks it down so you can at least see the model. It would be nice if the model is < 1.5mm that it would pop up a message or something to see if you want to scale it up.
  18. Benchy - at the default size - is too small to need brim. You need to watch my video. It's a bit long but packed with information.
  19. This has nothing to do with fan speed but I do recommend a *little* bit of fan for ABS. I'd do the minimum fan. 240C seems a bit too cold for ABS. Anyway I don't know what your problem is - clearly it's major underextrusion but I don't know why.
  20. I tried ice water and boiling water and the temp probe was quite far from 0C and 100C so I don't recommend that.
  21. sketchup is not great at making 3d models but you can do it if you follow these tips: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/
  22. Unlike UMO, UM3, S5, the UM2 series printers expect you to set things like retraction distance on the printer (not in cura). When you are in cura if you select a UM2 printer it should not even let you enter a value for retraction in Cura. However if you tell Cura (in machine settings) that you want it to generate reprap style gcodes, then cura *will* have a retraction distance. And when you go to print this gcode file the UM2 will even pop up a message warning you that "machine settings will be overridden by this gcode file". Or something like that. Are you asking about the a UM2 series printer? Because only the UM2 printers should allow you to set retraction distance (and a few other settings) on the printer.
  23. Short answer: Using CAD software. I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. When you put "solid" in quotes the first time - that's probably for a good reason. I think you mean "hollow"? Or maybe you are saying you want some parts of the model to have light infill - say 20%. And other parts of the box to have 100% infill? Is that what you want? That can be done in Cura. Here is a video to explain the second thing. Maybe you want a 3rd thing and just need to draw a picture of what you mean:
  24. That's as expected and as I predicted - the slot with the wall was tighter. I'm not sure why they are tighter than expected but probably because the nozzle is 0.4 but the default line width is something like 0.35. This is a less precise way of printing. The above parameters are for all prints where you don't care how it looks but you care how well it fits. You can get even better quality by slowing it down to 25mm/sec or faster, worse quality by speeding it up. Notice I didn't specify the layer height as most people understand exactly what that gives you. I usually do 0.2mm layer height for practical (not pretty) things as the best way to speed up a print is thicker layers. In my opinion. The thing that the above suggestions will hurt the most is ringing. So if you have text on the side of your print it will look pretty bad. But when you measure the area of the ringing with calipers it will be quite good. Even with this more accurate profile, sometimes you will want greater accuracy and you will have to fix the last little bit by tweaking the cad model.
  25. Just scale up by 25.4. It's trivial to do. Click on the part in sketchup, click on the scale tool on left side, choose 2540% Sketchup has lots of other issues so you should read this: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/
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