gr5

Go into settings and type "tower" in the settings search box. But tower can be very very useful for a dual extrusion print. So instead, go to PREPARE mode and click on the second extruder and then the second tab and then disable that second extruder. That will probably make the tower go away also and not affect future dual material prints.

Yay! I didn't know it was 3DGBIRE and I didn't know you were close by. I know a guy who works there. Great guy. 225 pounds is a steal as it will probably take them a few hours.

Here are the firmware recoveries I have. The ones with "R1" should all be for the older S5. Note the dates. Pick the oldest and newest (newest supplied from Ultimaker) This is a listing from my website gr5.org so just go to https://gr5.org/insert_image_name_here.img And it should automatically start downloading. Or create the link on a web page and right click and select to download. If there is a newer firmware let me know and I should get off my butt and add it to the below list. Why UM hides the old firmwares, I don't know. They are useful. -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 279969792 Jul 19 2023 UM3_recovery-3.7.7.20170627.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 332398592 Sep 11 2020 UM3_recovery-4.3.3.20180529.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 181449728 Nov 14 2020 gr-S5-R1.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 309789184 May 26 2021 um-restore-6.4.0-R1-gr.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 326318080 May 4 2023 um-restore-7.1.3-S5R1.img

So from your description I think you probably have bad blocks in your "hard drive". By hard drive I mean the SSD chip that serves as the drives for the linux computer. The chip automatically detects bad blocks and routes them to new locations but the data in the bad block is lost so you have to re-install the software. Sometimes the bad block is part of the formatting so sometimes you have to reformat one of the 3 partitions. Sometimes the bad block is part of the partition table so you have to repartition everything. Sometimes there are many bad blocks so you have to do the above steps a few times. Always there are excessive amounts of good blocks because we use maybe 1/4 of the SSD. Most of the firmware installers are "too smart" and won't reformat or repartition unless the size has changed. So I find the easiest way to deal with all this is to install 2 different versions that had different partition sizes. That way the firmware recovery sees the partition size is different and it has to do a complete reinstall. I have links to a few of these firmware recoveries here: https://gr5.org/unbricking/ Okay I just checked the above link and for some reason I don't see very many S5 (any?) recoveries although I know I have some for sure as I've used them for my S5. I guess I'd try to get one from firmware 4.X and one from 5.X because somewhere in there they changed the partition size. Or you can get an olimex cable and see what's going on step by step. Described in the unbricking page. Unfortunately the unbricking page is a mess. I have edited it maybe 30 times and it gets more confusing each time. Sorry. If you have an olimex cable you can repartition it to random partition sizes and then run the latest firmware recovery, it will be forced to repartition. Basically - keep trying firmware recoveries. Try different ones to force them to repartion and hence also reformat each partition. With the olimex cable you can also run connman (which sets up and controls the wifi and ethernet).

First read through this: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667410781005 Okay madmax - I saw your video in your other thread. that looks like you have noise. Electromagnetic noise. What reading are you getting of the sensor? Follow the instructions in the above link. The higher the number, the more noise you have. You need to get that well below 8 before things can work. Lately, the common cause is the fan but there are many possible causes. After you get a number, try unplugging the fan at the rear of the head. You don't have to take anything apart. If things are right on the edge (noise is say around 6-9) then the issue may be intermittent in which case, to get through the next day you can just try several times and eventually get through the active leveling. Another quick workaround is to disable the active leveling with this tool: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer/ I don't recommend the ultituner - it may be more trouble than it's worth. After disabling I think you have to do the manual level two more times possibly? There is something a little weird. But manual leveling is not supported and it won't do the multipoint leveling needed for larger parts to stick to the glass bed. You could end up with a MUCH more serious problem like a head flood if the part doesn't stick well so you really need to monitor the printer quite a bit to make sure the part sticks very well. A head flood happens when a hockey-puck shaped part comes loose and the head drags the part around and filament keeps coming out for hours and the filament has no place to go except back into the head and gets all inside the print head and can take many hours to remove after it solidifies and as part of the removal you can damage things. It's a horrible experience. But if you check the printer every 20 minutes you will catch the print coming loose before any damage is done. Anyway, let us know what noise reading you get.

Is it still under warranty? It's certainly okay to take the print head apart either way. I'm disappointed they told you that. Are you handy with electronics? Are you good with a voltmeter? If not, that might be the best advice. If you tell them you aren't afraid to take the head apart and ohm out wires, they may give you more specific advice. It could just be a wire that needs to be soldered back on. That is what happened to my S5. Everytime that door opens and closes it bends the wires a little. They can get pinched as well I suspect.

The people at UM Tech Support know much more about this than me as I've fixed maybe 3 printers and they've fixed over a hundred.

beadster - I see you are right - it is lifting the right printcore quite a bit! That's just as bad but the opposite problem. I'd push up on the right printcore to make sure it takes around a kg of force to lift the nozzle in the frame but I'm 80% sure that the printcore is not the problem. I'd test it anyway. Instead it is some kind of electronics issue detecting the capacitance properly. I'd contact UM tech support and see what they suggest but I think they'll have you start replacing things in the print head. I'm wondering if you could possibly have an open circuit between the circuit board and the plate in the base of the print head. There are 2 wires that run to the detection plate. The plate is a pcb. You can see it when you open the door. I'd use a voltmeter to check continuity. Or gently tug on the wires. I'd probably take the whole print head apart. There are detailed instructions with photos and such (or maybe it's a video, I forget). If your printer is less than a year old it may be free parts for you (e.g. print head pcb).

Okay madmax - that looks like you have noise. Electromagnetic noise. What reading are you getting of the sensor? Follow the instructions in Dustin's link. The higher the number, the more noise you have. You need to get that well below 8 before things can work. Lately, the common cause is the fan but there are many possible causes. After you get a number, try unplugging the fan at the rear of the head. You don't have to take anything apart.

This buzzing sound doesn't sound 100% right? I guess it's quite quiet on the S5 but on the UM3 it's noisier - I forget but that seems quite possible. I'm used to the S5 noise as I turned off active leveling on my UM3 but it's still on for my S5 so I guess I've forgotten what it sounds like. Still it would be nice if you posted a 10 second video showing leveling to youtube or something. I seem to remember the S5 has MUCH quieter servos.

The way it works: The build plate (the aluminum one under the glass) forms a capacitor with the plate in the print head. The capacitance increases as the plates get closer together. I'm pretty sure there is an oscillator where the frequency changes as the plates get closer together. Anyway when the nozzle touches the glass bed the plates should stop moving closer together. Should. When that happens the nozzle is assumed to have touched the glass. If instead the nozzle moves up as you described, it will NOT stop as the plates are still moving together! This should not happen. The bed is cantilevered and pushing down on it should move it down. It's critical that the amount of force needed to push down on the bed and move it downwards 0.1mm is less than the force needed to push the nozzle up into the print head. There is a spring inside the printcore that pushes hard on the nozzle. Harder than the cantilever force for the first 0.1mm or so. So it's possible the spring in the right printcore is too weak. You can measure it. It should take about 1kg of force to move the nozzle the first mm. More likely something is wrong with the sensor. More likely the bed *does* move down slightly before the printcore starts moving up.

Sounds good. And please post the project file as I think most of your issue is with the settings.

If @AdamSFX doesn't reply, keep in mind that most resellers will get back to you. It looks like you are in Canada. shop3d.ca is above average in the service department and you could probably get parts from them even if you didn't buy your printer through them. But yes, it will probably cost twice as much to get the part from UM because they will probably sell you the whole PCB with several parts mounted. Also there is a high chance the part will ship from fbrc8 in the US or UM headquarters in The Netherlands to Canada and then to you so it could take a few weeks.

Greg speaks the truth but keep in mind there are hundreds of possible causes for underextrusion. I've listed all the 21 known ones for the Ultimaker 3 in other posts but every printer model is different and the gaps on the topmost layer appear much worse than the layer Greg highlights. steps/mm is never an issue on the UM3 as long as you are using stock feeders.

Can you explain anyway? Start from the begining please? There are very many causes and symptoms vary slightly as well. What do you get for a score when you test the sensor? Do you just get "leveling fails" or do you get the one where the height of the two cores varies? How much does it vary by (if you look in the log file)? Did you watch it happen to make sure it switched to the second nozzle (sometimes that is the cause - the lift switch). If the sensor gets a high (bad) score, did you unplug the front fan? You can do that at the rear of the head without taking anything apart.

There are 500 parameters. I don't want to go through them right now. But I will if you post your project file. There is not one obvious parameter to fix this. I have a few in mind but forget what they are called at the moment. I want to experiment. Will take me all of 3 minutes if you can just post the project file. Also you might need to switch to an older version of Cura. Because I have several versions installed, it won't take me long at all. If the STL file is top secret, then please create a custom one that demonstrates this problem so we can take a look at your project file. Please don't post the STL file, I want to see all your current settings and try to duplicate your problem before trying some changes. I need to know your current line width (usually your nozzle size) along with several dozen other things.

@jebradley - what operating system are you using?

I see the issue you are talking about above. Very strange. I tried your 3mf file in cura 5.4.0 and it sliced fine. I noticed 2 things: 1) Layers 158, 174, 250 were fine 2) Only top/bottom layers should be yellow and for me only top/bottom layers were yellow. But you show yellow layers in the screenshots above! For me the layers were "infill" which is orange. So something is very strange with your version of cura. I think this may be a known bug. Anyway I strongly recommend you install and use Cura 5.4.0. It's okay to have multiple versions of cura installed at the same time.

Okay printing something different is actually helpful in diagnosing the issue. I see a LOT of heavy stringing. I don't trust your filament dryer. How hot did it get? Did you unspool enough filament for a cube? How long was the filament in the dryer? For PETG, 8 hours at 50C should be enough to dry any unspooled filament. Within a week the filament may be "wet" again - I'm not sure as I keep mine pretty dry. PETG seems to take longer to get "wet" than nylon or pva. To dry the entire spool it could take many days as the humidity may be far towards the center of the spool. I do like Torgeir's idea of maybe printing some PLA to verify your equipment (such as feeder steps/mm as mentioned). Also are your issues only when there is support material involved? Is everything printing beautifully when there is no support? For parts that have potential to string (islands of printing on each layer)?

Yes! There is a solution, but first: I haven't had any trouble getting all manner of filaments and colors. I have heard the most complaints about colors. For example in carbon and glass filled filaments there are probably over 100 to choose from. I do have one spool of very old 1.75 and I was able to print some recently using a new trick so I'll share that. It was quite simple. This works on S3/S5 but not on UM3 because the UM3 feeder just won't grip the 1.75mm filament. It was a shade of brown that I didn't have in stock and I didn't want to buy more filament when I had a spool already. I got some PFA tubing that was "4X2" meaning 4mm O.D. and 2mm I.D. I stuck it down into the printcore and marked where it stuck out the top. Then I cut the tubing there. I reduced retraction by about 2mm but the 4X2 bowden seems to stay pretty well inside the printcore (I was afraid it would slide up). It worked quite well. I also changed all the "flow" values in cura to 265% (which is 2.85^2/1.75^2). I also had to hand-insert the filament. Which I always do anyway so no change there. You might have to remove the normal bowden at the head to get the filament started into the smaller tube. I forget if I had to do that or not - I definitely removed the bowden at least one time. Other than that it worked pretty well. I printed 2 boxes that were each about 2 hours.

You will get much nicer results (typically but probably not in your case) if the letters are inset instead of sticking out. That may be good or not for cookies - not sure. You can definitely get those filled in. It looks like you have quite a bit of underextrusion - the flat layer below has lots of gaps. There should be no gaps there either. It may be the same problem (underextrusion). Try printing at half the speed you were printing at and/or clean out the nozzle. I think underextrusion is mostly your only issue however it may also be slicing this way on purpose. There are so many settings that can affect this. It's good to look at the print in PREVIEW mode in Cura to know if it will have gaps. Instead of me listing 30 to 50 settings for you to check, please post your project file so someone can look it over to see if anything needs to be changed in your cura settings. To do this, in Cura, do "file" "save project file" and post the resulting file here please. We will be able to see your STL file (your model), where you placed it, if you scaled it, what printer (machine) profile you have, material profile, and all of the 500 or so settings you are using.

Go through the menus. Pretty quickly you can find an option to enable/disable the filament sensor. I have an S5 but don't use the filament sensor and I have never run out of filament. It's not that hard to make sure there is filament on the printer but this a nice feature sometimes.

I recommend you learn a bit about getting things to stick to glass first but yes, there are 3rd party companies that will make various alternative sources. All of them should be able to handle a hot nozzle just fine. Some of the companies don't specifically mention the S5 but if you contact them they usually have that option for quite inexpensive prices. What material are you trying to print? Did you put anything on the glass (e.g. glue)? Oils from your fingers can get on the glass. Have you tried washing that off with dish soap or glass cleaner? Higher temp materials (e.g. ABS) are more difficult but I've printed pretty much every material out there on an S5 glass bed. So tell us more about what material you are printing. Personally I have the opposite problem - things stick too well and sometimes I pull up (spall) some of the glass off the bed. yes, really.