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gr5

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Everything posted by gr5

  1. Is the filament now stuck in the MS or does it retract completely and properly? If it's stuck then you probably need to take the MS apart. There are wonderful, detailed instructions.
  2. Did you watch the video I just linked to? It explains the cause of warping. It explains the solutions. You wouldn't be asking this question if you watched the video.
  3. @kcpilotpat - your words seem to describe underextrusion but to be sure, can you supply a photo? If underextrusion is only happening on the first layer then it's probably a leveling issue. If it happens on other layers then, well this is a common problem on 3d printers and usually indicates a hardware issue with your printer.
  4. Play with "combing mode". As greg says. It can eliminate all that stringing.
  5. Agreed. Maybe make a test one only 2cm tall.
  6. Very strange. I have not experienced this on my UM3. Some people use hairspray to prepare the glass bed. I would strongly suspect this issue if you share the printers with many people. You are supposed to spray the glass when it is not in the printer but some people spray it while still in place and it can get on the Z screw and other undesired places. Although I don't have a front cover. It looks like you do. Maybe it gets too hot in the plastic coverings and maybe UM used a glue gun for the LED strips and that is now melting.
  7. So you don't use digital factory? I guess that's what you said. I'll ask around. Have you tried DF? It's free. The feature you want may be in DF as it has much more features than direct network printing.
  8. Squishing is good as it keeps the part from warping off the bed. Especially as you get parts that extend all across the print bed. I don't think lower printing temps will help much. You want to cool the layer being printed onto. Down to maybe 70C? 60C? not sure. When you print a much larger part - it will have much more time to cool down. When I said "add more fan" I basically mean: modify the printer. Crossflow fans are a good option. Or a desk fan. But if this is just a test and you will be printing parts that cover the whole print bed, then no fan should be needed. But if you are going to be printing 20mm cubes with this volume of plastic then you need more cooling. Much more cooling. Like maybe 4X as much cooling. Or you can switch to a higher temp material like PETG which only needs to cool down to maybe 80C before putting the next layer on top.
  9. I agree with messing with the "minimum layer time" feature. I still think it's a cooling issue. It's possible the print head isn't keeping up but it's usually obvious if you look at the temperature of the nozzle - it will be dipping below the desired temp. So if your print temp is 200C then you will see it dip down to 195C or lower. But I don't think this is your issue. That curve you see near the bottom is quite common. Some people call it "elephants foot" but that's a bad name as it often doesn't look quite like an elephants foot most of the time (including your example). But you can google "elephants foot 3d printing" or something and see what other people say. Elephants foot only happens on heated beds. I'm not saying you shouldn't use a heated bed. And if you are printing PLA you want the bed well above 52C but as cold as possible to reduce "elephants foot". 60C is the recommended temp. 70C will definitely give you some "elephants foot". There is a setting to help a bit with "elephants foot" called something like "initial layer horizontal expanstion". Set that to about negative half the nozzle width so something around -0.5mm. So that curve is related to how hot PLA acts when still in liquid form. Imagine the 3rd layer up is being printed. The molten platic comes out and within milliseconds it is cooling which means it is shrinking. And molten PLA sticks to itself like snot. LIke mucus. So it is like a liquid rubber band. As you go around the outer corners of a cube it is pulled inward like a rubber band but the layer below is holding it from shrinking too much. But if the layer below is still not completely solid you get that "elephants foot" shape. As you get farther from the heated bed, things recover. So... add more fan.
  10. I think you need more cooling on your printer. If you are going to 4X the volume you need to at least double the amount of fan. You need each layer to cool completely before you start the next layer Or since you say you will be printing large objects, try printing something much larger in X and Y just to see if that gives each layer more time to cool before the next layer is placed down.
  11. I don't know anything about what version of cura and what settings in cura you need. That should be somewhere in the above 39 pages of posts.
  12. While it's printing, if you are in the TUNE menu and you go to set the temperature, it shows two temperatures: goal temp current temp Is the goal temp staying at 210 yet the current temp dropping? I would suspect a fan blowing directly on the nozzle maybe? Well if you are printing very fast with a large nozzle and fan is 100% then indeed I could imagine this to be a problem. So 0.8mm nozzle, printing 0.3 layer thick, 30mm/sec then yes, the heater can't keep up. Do you have the latest firmware from tinkerMarlin? There may have been an older version with weird power budget code that cut back power to a nozzle? I don't remember that. The latest version prioritizes power to the nozzles over the print bed.
  13. Usually it should print fine - those overhangs look to be a little steeper than 45 degrees but I think it would print... I don't think they'll fall over exactly as slashee says or maybe she's simplifying a bit but I'm more worried it won't stick well enough to the bed and, well, fall over. As slashee says. You are going to waste a lot of filament regardless as you learn to print. I like to say it takes about 100 prints before you are pretty successful. And then when you switch to another filament, such as nylon, it will take another 100 prints to master that material. So my point: I think the support looks fine. I'm just worried about how well it will stick as beginners aren't good at that detail (making it stick so well you can lift the printer with that print).
  14. There may be other issues. Is it possible you are slicing for one of the elegoo delta printers? Maybe you selected the wrong printer in cura.
  15. Near top of cura go to PREPARE screen (you are already there in above screenshot). Then click on your printer near the top left and choose "manage printers". Then click "machine settings". Uncheck "origin at center'. Done. "Origin at center" is for delta printers which are a rare breed although Elegoo does make some delta printers. But it sounds like you have an XYZ printer so you want that "origin at center" unchecked.
  16. gr5

    Slicer bug.

    No, I don't think it's an option. Well you could search for "wall" in the settings search box. I suspect it used to be even worse. No skin at all under any walls. Then Burt fixed it in his version of cura but he didn't cover every possible situation. Then his feature got pulled into cura years ago so now ultimaker cura and smartavionics cura are probably the same for walls. I'd create an issue over on github. That way your issue will get MUCH more attention. As slashee suggested. You have to create a github account but it's free.
  17. But then he wants the loaded filament to show up in cura.
  18. There's 3 ways to print that I know of: DF (digital factory) network USB flashdrive Which do you use? With the first 2 methods you have to connect to a printer with Cura. It used to be that when you connected you could then choose "auto". I forget if it was for the printcore, the material, or both. Probably both. So it would be on the PREPARE tab of cura where it shows the materials. I can't test this now as my printer is off and I am hundreds of miles away right now. I have been using USB flashdrive for years and I've never used DF but I'd be surprised if this feature went away or never got incorporated into DF. I'll ask around.
  19. gr5

    Slicer bug.

    Yeah I consider it a bug. There is a guy known as @burtoogle and also known as "smartavionics" who had complaints about his exact issue, or a very similar issue where a wall was on top of skin and skin was either zero or one layer thick (in other words often directly on infill). just like in your diagram. He fixed the bug in the cura code and has his own version of Cura which I strongly recommend you try out. As Slashee_the_Cow says, Cura is basically working as designed. But Cura has gotten better and puts some skin (or maybe it should be called wall support or something?) under walls now. I think Burt's fix *might* have been incorporated back into Cura so it may be that this bug is a sub-case of the bug he fixed. Or maybe the Ultimaker Cura team didn't pull his PR and instead rewrote the code their own way. Anyway I'd try his version of Cura to see if it's fixed. He has fixed/added quite a few things in cura - for example much improved options for bridging. He has been pulling in the latest features of Cura but had to stop recently (I forget why) so it is "frozen" at an older version of Cura yet it still is an absolutely fantastic version of Cura with probably 98% of the current features. Also you can install as many versions of Cura as you want and they don't interfere with each other (although I think they do try to pull in stuff from an older version upon install). I have about 5 versions installed right now. https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases
  20. By the way, if you think PLA is tough because of warping, wait until you try a higher temp plastic someday (basically every thing other than PLA is higher temp). You should not need to enclose your printer. Hell people print ABS without enclosing their printers and ABS warps 10X more than PLA. You should probably get some magigoo instead of the glue in my video.
  21. You need to try several things. Clean the PEI plate from any oils. Squish filament into the PEI harder in that "bad" corner. Watch my video which explains why so you don't just follow rules but understand why the rules exist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k
  22. Yeah I don't know much about this. I have an S5 but don't use digital factory. But there is a setting in cura where for material you can have it automatically choose the material based on the printer you are connected to. I haven't enabled that for years so I don't know much about this feature. I assume you noticed that feature? It was when you click on the material to choose the material, there was some kind of "auto" option. Once set to auto it stays there. I didn't like that as I was often slicing for the *next* print which was a different material.
  23. Which problem. Is your PLA also damaged? I don't have a MS but I've seen documents that explain how to take it apart and remove stuck filament. Ultimaker has some great documents with pictures and detailed instructions. If that won't help then I'd contact support. Click the 9 dots icon in the upper right of this screen, choose support and then near the top of the screen choose "submit a request".
  24. Alors c'est le chauffage. Pas le capteur.
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