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For a version of Marlin that works with your heated bed you can probalby use this wonderful service: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

I would say probably that heated glass is better than tape. But if you have no heat then tape is better than glass. Also the lifting forces can be very strong so if they are too strong you have to get wider tape or the tape itself lifts. So as long as you have a heated bed, use the glass. And if parts are still warping even after using brim feature and say 60C, then raise the temp to 75C. At 75C you will get some minor ugliness near the bottom of the part but at least it won't lift at the corners. Another option is to print a "raft" although I have never tried that option with Cura. Raft is better developed in older technology printers I suspect. Such as makerbot. Raft is the older technology to prevent warping of corners. It worked pertty well but gave you very ugly bottom surfaces. Glass is the new method now that we are getting really good at sticking parts to glass.

Note that the M500 saves this to permanent memory so if you turn your machine off and on you will still have the new value. However I'm not sure if you will lose this when you update to latest firmware.

layer pitch? Is that the same as layer height? Are you really printing 1mm layers? Wow - you must have a much larger diameter nozzle than I do. Cura has a "first layer height" setting that defaults to .3mm which is usually thicker than the other layers. Typically people use .1mm or .2mm for layer height. Look through the cura settings for the first layer height. If leveling slightly higher means your first layer isn't sticking then heating the bed up another 10 or 20C will help and then you can immediately cool the bed back to normal printing temps. This allows the plastic to flow more nicely into all the cracks while it is still in a liquid phase and not in a "toothpaste" phase. preprocessing a model before slicing would be great. I think this kind of feature is creeping into cura slowly already. But it will mean many more expert settings as each manufacturers brand of filament and each color has different qualities that need to be adjusted for. It also depends how perfectly you leveled, what your bed temp is (hot bed temps can cause inward pulling on the second layer) print speed and many other factors. So this preprocessing step would have to be adjustable based on your typical printing style and printer and filament.

I hate cura support because it supports surfaces that don't really need it. I only need it when the angle is greater than 80 degrees from vertical. Even then I don't always need it unless it's something hanging in air like the finger tips of a person with their hands hanging downward. When I *do* use supports I always use meshmixer now or I design them in cad. Often I can cut a model in half to avoid overhangs and supports. Cura support really seems like it is designed for dual print heads where you print a support material with the other head and then melt it off with some kind of solvent.

90C is the ideal temp to "cold pull" PLA out. It will help you get any gunk out of the nozzle tip as well.

In my experiments I found that 50c through 75c stuck exactly the same amount but below around 30C it doesn't stick as well. However there is another advantage at 75C in that PLA stays above glass temp and is MUCH less likely to lift at the corners for large parts. The disadvantage of 75C is that the bottom 3mm or so of the part gets pulled in on all corners. exterior corners are smaller (pulled inward) and interior corners are pulled outward. This is because the bottom 3mm or so of PLA never gets cold enough to be solid.

Getting the full size picture from dropbox was a pain. Plus will it still be there 10 years from now when other's come to read this topic? Please post your pictures next time. Notice that the blobs have a pattern. They tend to be on every other row. They will be on one corner for a dozen or so layers and then switch to another corner. They are definitely related to slicing. I agree with yellowshark. Slow it down. Those blobs I believe happen when the head slows down for the corner. Also you may have too many small polygons on the corner. Cura can only look ahead 10 or 20 line segments so if you have more than 20 at the corner at has to slow down and be ready to come to a complete stop at the corner. Anytime the print head slows down you get some overextrusion because the impressively high pressures in the nozzle take a second to reduce to the slower print speed. That's what causes the blobs. The "jerk" setting is set to 20mm/sec so printing at 20mm/sec means it won't slow down much if any at the corners. So 30mm/sec will reduce the blobs by maybe 50%. 20mm/sec maybe by 95%. Something like that. Also how thick is your shell? I recommend .8mm (2 passes). or more. but .8mm is good. You get a better outer layer usually if there is an inner layer. But mainly just slow it down if you want less blobbing and check that you don't have excessive polygons on the corners.

I simply put mine on the floor sideways on a turntable and checked that it wasn't tangling once every 30 minutes or so.

DonMilne - um1 or um2? The um1 has this feature in the latest firmware but you have to build it yourself. It's exactly the feature you describe. I think it is in the tune menu and called something like z-tweak. I don't think it's available for um2. Please update your profile to say what printer/printers you have.

There are settings in machine settings that set the size of the print head around the nozzle and also the gantry height. If even one object violates the gantry height or if it can't print all the objects with the size limitations then cura automatically does "all at once". That's why you probably didn't see this before - either they were taller than gantry height or you put them too close together. For me the nice thing about one at a time is if things fail part way through at least you have potentially the first print being fine. Also I have had problems in between prints that sometimes when it primes the nozzle before the second print it makes a mess that can get caught on the head and mess up the second part. Also all-at-once might get you tons of stringing if you don't have your retraction settings dialed in. Also if you did a sloppy leveling job then you might print the first one fine but when it moves to another part of your print bed the bottom layer might not be so good. Also all-at-once is much slower as it has to retract and move back and forth between all the prints on each layer.

If my filament was grinding I would try printing slower. Try 50% of what you had been printing. Also, posters above who have printed bronze successfully and unsuccessfully: what speed did you print at? I also I would consider loosening or tightening the tension on the feeder. Or buy a mk8 feeder sleeve.

Wow! That stretch algorithm/feature is very cool.

You said it started when changing the nozzle? Maybe the wires were damaged slightly? If the resistance increased between the thermocouple and the small board then it would be more sensitive to noise. My guess is the wire is almost broken. Probably right where it goes into the heater block. You could measure the resistance through the thermocouple with a volt meter. I've never tried this but I think it should be close to 0 ohms. If it is over 1000 ohms then that might explain the problem - you could jiggle the wiring and push and prod the wiring until the resistance comes back down. That could both fix the problem or find the bad spot.

First of all, uncheck the "homebuilt" heated bed because if you do that and then install cura it will install one that expects a specific, unusual heated bed design - the one that UM is about to sell (any day now?). However this is probably unrelated to your issue. I would just try a few more times. Also as a last resort, remove the arduino from the PCB and program it directly. Also consider using the arduino ide to install the hex file. Actually I'm not sure if you can do that without compiling it also which is a bit of work so maybe use pronterface to update the arduino?

Fortunately it is designed to be taken apart easily.

If you go to the folder where cura installed, there is a python file in there somewhere - a small one - that describes all the changes for that version of cura. It *is* unfortunate that it only pops up once and there's no way to get it back.

That's very strange. Is it even slicing? Do you see the progress bar zip quickly to the right? The material usage estimate is not an estimate. It is the exact amount commanded by the extruder stepper motor. It's only possible to use less material if the filament is slipping or skipping backwards. The time estimate is getting much more accurate lately - usually within a few percent. But if you change your acceleration settings on your printer, Cura won't know this. Also it is making a guess on your retraction distance, acceleration and retraction speed.

It should be closer than that. But none of the tables match your thermister exactly. But you should get within 20C. First you need a table of resistance to temperature conversion for your part. Honestly it might be easier to order a different thermistor. I looked for 5 minutes but couldn't find a table for your part. The B25/50C of 3990K tells you the shape of the curve. It is saying you can use a Beta value of 3990K and it will be reliable for temperature between 25C and 50C. That's good because your heated bed won't be much hotter than that (100C?). None of the resistors here have that beta: http://reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor Really you should be able to find a datasheet from the manufacturer. STEP 2: Turn on power and measure the voltage across the thermistor. The voltage formula is: vtherm = (Rtherm/(4700+Rtherm) X 5V Or solving for Rtherm Rtherm = 4700 V / (5-V) So in other words at 25C Rtherm should be 100K and vtherm should be 4.775 volts. Make sure all that is working - make sure the voltage is correct for room temp. I suspect that step will fail - I suspect your 4.7k is loose or is actually 4.8k or something. Or one of your wires is not a good connection. Once you figure all that out it's time to fix the table. Unfortunately your thermister doesn't match any of the tables. You will have to make your own table. The tables are in thermistortables.h. You can edit this file easily and insert your own table. It comes with instructions and reprap.org has spreadsheets for calculating a table also I think. Then you have to build Marlin: First get the source code files here: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Then edit Configuration.h – this is by far the hardest step and it's not bad. I recommend you go here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ and use that website only to get the Configuration.h file. Then run winmerge or some other diff program to compare the latest ErikZalm version of Configuration.h to the one from robotfuzz which is usually a few months behind. Edit the ErikZalm version to match the robotfuzz generated version. Make any other edits as necessary. It sound complicated but it is extremely clear and well commented. Sometimes with paragraphs of explanation. configuration.h file detailed explanation: http://airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmware-v1-basic-configuration-set-up-guide/ Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file. Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/

Did you fix the sudden shift? It's usually caused by the set screws not tight enough but there are other causes. You could mark the shaft and pulley with a permanent marker on the 2 pulleys on the short belt but it's probably a problem at the Y stepper. sensebellum please update your location in your preferences to indicate what country you are in. That curling is complicated and not easy to fix. Mostly more fan helps but you are probably already at 100%. There is an hours worth of videos and discussion and reading and a few solutions but you probably won't like them. You can use a hot putty knife to repair that curling during printing if you want. That works but is time consuming when you could be doing something else. Anyway, curling discussion and solutions (note that the first few guesses as to the cause were wrong). http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/ Your curling is worse on the left side because of where the outer edge starts and ends and the direction of movement (e.g. if it start coming inwards towards right side from the left then it won't curl).

I'm not telling, sorry. Is North York in the UK? or USA? I thought digikey was only usa but York sounds like england.

It appears to be validated now though. You must have found the validation email.

Diese Löcher werden durch den Einzug Überspringen rückwärts durch zu viel Druck in dem Druckkopf verursacht. Die häufigste Ursache ist das Drucken zu schnell oder zu kalt. Es gibt Tabellen und Grafiken, wie schnell Sie in der Lage, zu erwarten, zu drucken. Zum Beispiel ist 100mm/sec .1 mm Schichthöhe 230C eine sichere Temperatur und Geschwindigkeit. 75mm/sec 0,3 mm Schichthöhe bei 220 ist viel zu schnell Lautstärke. Allerdings ist eine weitere mögliche Ursache verschlungenen Faden. Ihre Filament kann stecken bleiben werden. Ich empfehle Ihnen, legte es auf den Boden, wie dieses Bild und überprüfen Sie es gelegentlich für Verwicklungen.

Yes. It comes on even before the lights do. Is it noisy? Some people reported it as being loud. Mine is so quiet I can't hear it from just a few feet away.

The colder the temperature, the slower you have to print. So if 185C, .2mm layer had a few holes, 185C, .1mm layer should be much easier (printing at half the volume speed). Or try 190C and go up to 20mm/sec maybe?