gr5

You took a great photograph of the problem in your original post in this thread. But I can't really see the right panel underneath. Could you take a photograph of that also? That combined with the photograph of the left panel on top that you already took - and combined with the pdfs - maybe that can narrow down a specific dimension so that you can say "only ship me the left panel if the distance from the bearing hole to the edge is X mm". Something like that. UM is probably going to think you simply put the right panel on inside out. Or something like that. So if you show a photo of the right panel installed properly it is more convincing.

Have you compared the panels to the drawings? https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal The above link has drawings of all the panels. Maybe you should have figured out which measurement was off (if any) before requesting a specific panel. Sorry about your frustration. Click on the above link, select the panel you care about, then you can select the pdf drawing and hit "raw" to just get the file. Or you can download the STEP file if you have autodesk, solidworks or a few other cad systems that read it. Personally I would probably just get a screen shot of the pdf, load it into photoshop and setup the mm/pixel in photoshop to match the drawing. Then make measurements directly with photoshop. Or I would photograph all my suspect panels and compare them visually on the computer screen on top of each other with the pdf images.

The UM1 is an excellent machine. I'd stick with that.

I don't know but if you are looking for the setting Robert mentions, it is under "machine settings..."

The machine instead should be designed so that no matter what combination of crash you do, nothing is damaged.

190C is very cold - toothpaste consistency for PLA. Although I often print at this temp. But when I *do* print at this temp I print slower. At 240C the PLA flows like warm honey. 210 to 220C is typical. I prefer much colder (190C) when I have lots of stringing issues but I don't think you have any stringing so for this particular part I would consider going up to 210C rather than slow it down more.

Your X axis is slipping or missing steps. Usually the suggestion is to tighten the set screws (aka grub screws) on the 6 pulleys for that axis. However when it slips such a small amount it is usually caused by missing steps. Here are some things known to cause this: 1) Power off machine and push the head around - x and y should feel about the same. Try lubricating the shaft or possibly loosening the tighter belt. Personally I wouldn't touch belt tension unless it was twice as tight as the "good" axis. 2) belts rubbing the side. Particularly the short belt between the motor and first pulley. 3) Motor rubbing side of machine. Some people recently had some kind of movement where the pulley was starting to rub against the outside of the machine. I would take off the metal cover for the "bad" axis (x axis? Right?) and look very very carefully at the belt and make sure it is well clear (a few mm) away from touching anything. While you are at it tighten the heck out of the tiny set screw in the motor pulley.

Good to know! It didn't occur to me that you could lift it farther up and it would bite harder. lePaul and I are pretty sure the filemant tangled. It was on the floor on it's side even though it was spooled.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

This is typical underextrusion. You areprinting the infill either too fast or too cold. I guess I'll go with too fast. Cura allows you to do a higher speed on the infill. This is not a good feature. Set this to 0 so that it goes at the same speed as the rest of the printing. Alternatively slow down the entire print or raise the temperature to allow more filament through the nozzle.

Consider also cutting the X and Y acceleration and max-jerk settings in half. If you don't save these it will go back to defaults when you power cycle the machine.

This is probably the best place although Daid reads this forum often also: https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues

You have two choices. The UM2 comes with 2 materials in the menu system: PLA and ABS. You can either: 1) Create a new material called "CUSTOM1" that has the bed temperature and other settings that you want or 2) Modify the existing material called "PLA" to have the bed temp you want. Doing this is very confusing. I was able to do it but I don't know how I did it and it wasn't obvious what I was doing. You just have to play with it until you get it right.

Almost certainly it is the same. I base this only by looking at photos of UM filament and Form futura website (and other manufacturers). The black spools that the filament comes on are identical. And every other company out there has a completely different spool - all companies are unique as far as I can tell.

Mine looks like yours. It sticks out quite a bit. Just like yours. Maybe the threads are stripped (ruined).

I strongly recommend you do not buy filament that is truly at 3mm. Also I recommend printbl.com for filament in the USA. Good luck.

Again, if the problem is that the X axis only goes one direction I would put a meter on the DIR pin and see if it goes from 5V in one direction to 0V in the other. If it is always at 5V or always at 0V then the problem is usually a bad solder joint. Or a bad arduino.

The drivers should be clearly labelled and they pop off. The X driver is the closest to the X connector and so on. You can swap two. I'd like to see a video of what you are talking about. Bur from your words only - I think what you are saying is that the print head is fine until it hits and endstop and then tries to keep going. I don't know about the mingda but the normal UM is tough and it can handle this but it makes a horrible noise and shakes something awful. The cause of this is usually that the endstop isn't working. There should be 6 endstop switches. 2 on each axis. Really you only need 3 as the other 3 are done in software anyway. You can test them with power off - push the print head around and you should hear the click as it hits each endstop. If the noisy spot has no click then you can slide the endstop closer in so that it clicks before the axis gets to it's end. Alternatively the switch could be broken or it might not be plugged in at all. Or it could be, again, that the direction signal is broken and the axis ALWAYS goes the same direction. This indicates that the DIR signal is an open connection so the driver always interprets the signal to go the same direction. This is what I thought you said the problem is in the first place.

That gap - it looks like play. Usually play comes from the belts but it sounds like your belts are too tight if anything. Play/backlash can come from other things. With power off, place the head near the center of the machine. Then push the nozzle back and forth in X and Y. Does the nozzle move without the belts moving? You might have to hold a belt still to see if there is any play that needs quite a bit of force for it to take affect. If the nozzle moves a distance similar to that gap width in your photo - then that could be the problem. It could come from the bearings in the head. It could come from loose X,Y rods (the two that go through the head). It could come from the blocks that those 2 rods go through. It could be in the print head itself.

Slightly off? What do you mean? The color is wrong? It isn't centered in X but Y is fine? It is tilted? It is hovering over the bed? And which UI do you mean? Does simplify have a USB printing window? Are you talking about the simplify UI? Be warned that USB printing isn't officially supported on the UM2 as it is buggy and often fails part way through a print if it gets a bad signal through the USB.

This does not make sense. The tiny screw needs to be very very tight. I think you just aren't tightening it enough. Tighten it so much that you are afraid of breaking the screwdriver/hexdriver. The white roller should be close to the lowest tension - the white square that shows through the left side should be near the top.

It looks like underextrusion but I don't know why it would get worse at the top. You had retraction everywhere so if it had anything to do with retraction (such as retraction speed so high it missed steps on the extruder) then it should appear everywhere. Did you lower the temp further up? Did you crank the fan higher further up? Maybe the PLA on the spool got slightly more tangled and you were on the verge the whole time? Anyway to fix this kind of thing you can either extrude less PLA per second or you can raise the temp. Lower the speed will get you better quality overall so if you are patient then that is the better choice. If you are impatient like me then crank the temp to 240C and let the plastic flow! Of course you will get much worse stringing at 240C. Everything is a tradeoff.

Did you use "spiralize"? I still think it's a Z issue or possibly your bed is shifting side to side when changing Z. If these were 3mm apart (same as Z screw) then that would explain even more but these are only. My other theory was that your extruder wheel wasn't round so it would overextrude then underextrude but I assume the vase uses either more or less plastic than your previous part. And both parts have overextrusion every 5 layers. If the parts are different sizes and problem was extruder gear then the quantity of layers would change. So I still think this is related to Z somehow.

I wouldn't expect much stringing on this object because it doesn't have separate islands (but you never know with cura!). Actually the letters - those might have stringing. Anyway you can help the underextrusion two different ways - either slow it down or heat it up. Your choice. And when I say slow it down I mean 40mm/sec. And when I say hotter I mean 230C or even 240C. I'd be tempted to print 90% of it at 240C, 60mm/sec and then use tweakAtZ to switch to 30mm/sec at 205C for the letters on top.

It depends what is causing the underextrusion. If you are printing too fast and cold the PLA can't get out of the nozzle fast enough and there is a longer than usual delay when asking for "more pla!". So if it is printing slowly for a bit on one side and then speeds up on a longer side, the extursion can't catch up with the faster/longer print line. That's why printing slower fixes many many issues. Actually this makes a lot of sense in the picture with the green and red arrow. Maybe the green arrow is pointing at an underextruded "slot" and the head was travelling in the direction of the red arrow as it made that slot and in the second half (as it is decelerating) the extrusion finally catches up with demand and the slot gets gradually less prominent and recovers at the corner. Really Marlin should be smarter and anticipate this and overextrude a bit on the acceleration and underextrude on the deceleration to compensate but in practice this gets complicated as every PLA has different viscosity and every nozzle hole has a slightly different size and I'm sure there are other affects (like the formula would be totally different at different temperatures).