Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

chiz

Dormant
  • Content Count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by chiz

  1. Yup, it's the first run wizard. Ok, I'll try it and let you know what happens. Thanks a lot! Update: You're right! I need to complete the first run wizard first. After installing custom firmware, I was able to modify the print area settings. Thanks again!
  2. Hi everyone esp. to tinkergnome, First of all, I want to thank @tinkergnome for the great work he's been doing for the community! So, I've upgraded my UM2+ from stock to v17.10.1. After successful firmware upgrade, I get the dreaded "X/Y switch broken" issue. I searched and found out that the stock firmware messes up the EEPROM and one has to do a factory reset first. So I went back to stock, did a factory reset in the printer, did not complete the steps and immediately re-uploaded the v17.10.1 firmware. Still, I'm getting the "switch broken" issue. Not sure
  3. This is the same issue I have that I refer to as below: Issue: X rod crashes to the parked hotend (not yet solved) I also haven't come around resolving this. Curious to know the solution as well.
  4. hmmm... Considering they're only N42 (as the page says and not N52), they're pretty impressive for their holding power. Anyways, yes I ensured that the poles are opposite. I even ensured that the magnet pairs touch each other completely while making sure there's the "air gap" between the head and the coupler. I did do a dry run with the bowden only and without the filament yet. But with the combined bowden+filament, it has become more stiff. I bought a replacement bowden that I've been using on my UMO and has not failed me so far. They're less transparent than what Ultimaker supplies but t
  5. I'm actually wondering how I'll be able to measure the magnet's pulling force just to be sure. Here's the link to the N52 magnets I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/162027521920?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  6. Here. (Sorry for the awkward angle. We are moving in a few days and we have boxes with address in the background so I had to rotate the printer preventing the boxes to in the video.) And here's how I mounted the adjustable feeder holder. I even trimmed the bottom screw portion to maximize the angle. [attachment=46958:name] Will probably get back with fixing this issue once we are done with the relocation. Sadly, after I have the Mark2 mod done, I now need to knock down the printer for the move.
  7. Today, I have replaced the head with a new one (printed using Polymaker PC-MAX) with a new set of magnets that's suppose to be N52 rated. Personally, I don't see any difference from the previous magnets that I used. I've also replaced the feeder with the adjustable version. However, my 2nd hotend still falls off when the printhead goes near the extruder (rear right of the frame). I guess I'll be needing a longer bowden tube, or perhaps a less stiffer replacement. Anyways, I calibrate the hotends by eye as I don't pretty much get how calibration works as described in the calibration section i
  8. I held off printing and testing dual extrusion for the moment as I print a new set of coupling and head (using Polymaker PC-MAX). I noticed however that even if I'm using only one extruder, the 2nd extruder, though parked most of the time, still heats up to 80°. Is there a way to turn the 2nd extruder off completely? Also, can anyone direct me to where I can download the Mart2Tweaks plugin? Tried the forums and google-ing but no dice.
  9. While everyone is probably working on the bugs and without a cheat sheet yet, I thought of compiling the following to help those who may encounter the same issues as they implement Mark2 on their UM2+. Feel free to edit if I misstated anything. Issue: 2nd hotend falls off when printhead goes to the back of the build plate This issue may be due to one or more of the following: 1. weak magnets - You might have used a lower rated magnet, e.g., N35, rather than N52 magnets. Solution: Replace the magnets. Question to dev/proj team: During Mark2 development, was it considered making a feed
  10. @foehnsturm/@ultiarjan: So I edited the json file directly and adjusted X to 115. It did provide some clearance between the fans. However, with the 1st hotend out of the way, now it's the X rod that's squeezing the parked hotend and causes belt jitter/rattle. Weird thing though is that no matter what value I set to Y, it will not move the X rod farther from the parked head. I tried both small and extreme values such as Y=20, Y=0, Y=30 and Y=50 but it will not stop the X rod from hitting/squeezing the parked hotend.
  11. It's not during docking but during priming. This is after the 2nd hotend has extruded some material, then it gets docked. Then before the 1st extruder extrudes some material, it will move to the front center hitting the parked hotend. See pic below.
  12. @navigator: Yup, I noticed that the "Store" button actually saves the settings even after the machine is turned off Issues Solved Setting the Layer Start X and Y values solved the "front left corner travel" issue. Was able to successfully print the dual color traffic cone below (printed at 60% scale): I think that the calibration page on the documentation should be updated to first set the Extruder Offset X and Y *before* printing the calibration ruler/grid. This ensures that others in the future will not encounter the issues the early modders experienced. Also important to note as well
  13. Thanks, @MarcoUbtz! I did notice after backtracking the tread that it was @foehnsturm who suggested the layer start settings. Btw, if you don't mind... Can you tell me how to activate the Mart2Tweaks plugin? I can't find it in the list in Cura and in the Mark2 github repo. I also don't see the "settings" icon as you're showing in this Cura screenshot below:
  14. @tinkergnome: I got the extra head from someone who purchased an extruder upgrade kit to upgrade to UM2+. Replaced the fan shroud and everything else is stock UM2+. Feeder mounted at the back using the fixed extruder mount. I'm considering printing the adjustable version instead. @foehnsturm: Unless the current github files are still not updated. I've just cloned/download the repo yesterday. Rattling/Crashing Noise Solved I solved the rattling/crashing noise and aligned the prints by copying @navigator's extruder offset settings (X 18.20 Y -24.95). See pic attached. Thanks @navi
  15. Pretty much complete with the mod but I'm not having the best of luck to properly calibrate the hotends. Docking works perfectly. I can switch hotends successfully. However, I suspect that I've gotten weak magnets (though its description says they're N52) which causes the 2nd hotend to fall during quick change while printing. Also, I hear ratlling noise the first time the 2nd hotend is picked up. I'm unable to determine the cause yet. I'll describe below hoping someone may be able to help. Below are what I notice when printing dual material: 1. 2nd hotend is picked up. 2. Axis moves to fr
  16. Yes, this is more of a chemical reaction of the material to a solvent. This contraption uses an ultrasonic mister that does not heat up the solvent to produce mist that would crawl even into small crevices. Actually even the underside of the pokeball was smoothened by the mist! Also, with the machine, I just put the part in the platform, set the timer, start polishing and leave it until it's done. With a polishing wheel, one has to actively work on the part from start to finish. Polysmooth is PVB which uses alcohol for solvent. ABS uses acetone as solvent. As long as the correct solvent is u
  17. New parts polished: Before and after polishing: Showing the glossy/reflective finish:
  18. Just checking.... "or my UM2+ to arrive" I hope you don't mean you're waiting on a NEW um2+ to arrive? Did you read the latest Ultimaker 2's are MISSING THE 5th DRIVER so you can not control the 2th extruder? It's mentioned on the site and in the BOM, but just thought I notice it again to be clear. ultimaker can not give an exact moment they changed the electronics, but roughly on machines from end 2016 - 2017 you should check if you still have the 5th driver on the main board. Thanks for letting me know. I'm not aware about this recent change and just read the thread. Definitely no
  19. Just to show how polished one can achieve using Polysmooth... Pokeball before and after polishing: To show how reflective the polished finish is, I've taken a picture of the same pokeball beside a dual-colored traffic cone and some nuts and bolts. One can clearly see the nut in the reflection.
  20. Thanks, @neotko/@kmanstudios
  21. Congrats, @RudydG! I think you're officially the first end user who has successfully implemented the Mark2. As for me, I got the docking and print head parts printed ready for my UM2+ to arrive so I can start tinkering with it.
  22. Maximum size possible is 6"x6"x7" (LxWxH) as you need to allow some space between the part for the mist to travel around the chamber. I source out the parts from China:www.banggood.com The only difference I see between isopropyl and ethanol is the latter smells better. I tried both as well as 70% and 91% and they both work fine. The advantage with 90% and above is that it polishes faster than 70%, i.e., 40mins vs. 60mins.
  23. Thought I'd share this project to anyone here thinking of trying out Polymaker's Polysmooth but on the fence whether to get the Polysher or not. I've developed an alternative that is 1/4 the cost of the original machine. Full details of the project are posted below: 1. hackaday 2. thingiverse
  24. With 1/4 the price of the machine, this one's definitely cheaper! I have the BOM posted on the project site so anyone can source out the individual components. Just some basic soldering will do. Besides, there's always a first time for everything! Btw, I went ahead and started a topic dedicated to the project. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/49187-diy-polishing-station
×
×
  • Create New...