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12much

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Everything posted by 12much

  1. I took a bunch of metal plates, 1.0mm each and stacked them before performing the test again. The head didn't collide with the plates so the sensor is working in some way.FYI: I couldn't adjust a smaller gap with the screws that's why I used a stack of metal plates. Altering the wires didn't help so next I'll dismantle the unit and solder the connection on the board ... to be continued
  2. So I did.... De sensor werkt matig. Bij problemen met actieve kalibratie gaat U naar Ultimaker.com/ER45 So...things to check this evening:-) like on the following redirected adress: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011576000 Smitty, thanks for the tip. this looks promessing:-)
  3. I'll run the level sensor diagnostic tomorrow, (won't be home because I'm at the Fablab tonight). I'll also run the manual leveling and make pictures from the proces. There is a moment where I'm asked to make use of the calibrationcard. At that moment, the gap between nozzle and buildplate is more than I can adjust . there is still more than 4mm to go before I reach a gap of 1.2mm.
  4. @Smitty tnxx. The error existentiële after automatic leveling. the big gap while levering manual. This was never A problemen earlier. The story in pur Fablab is that the problems exist after upgrading the SW.
  5. Hi All, I'm encountering calibration problems. I tried to calibrate manually, but at the moment I need to adjust the gap with the calibration card I'm confronted with a gap>4.0mm. For the record: when calibrating automatically, the endresult is a message to check my nozzle or the buildplate. the glass plate is shiny clean and the nozzle is empty and clean. Reading and searching for similar problems/topics with solutions, is not getting me very happy with all of the SW problems. And even when I want to load an older version it seems not to be possible, is it? I realy need the S3 in working modus at the moment, so I ordered a new mainboard and displayboard for de S3. Where can I find an older SW version like SW5.7.3? Or is there another version from wich it is possible to upgrade later if the latest version will be stable? Tnxx guys& gal's
  6. Another tip: at first you put in your nozzle up to the aluminium heaterblock, then screw the brass bolt in the PEEK part. Heavy ? Take it out and cut the thread inside. Screw the brass bolt and PEEK assembly into the heaterblock Dis-assemble in reversed order.
  7. That's a good solution, but don't get fooled: The nozzle with 0.6 stamped on it is actually 0,8mm and intended to be used for MIG/MAG welding material ( as Titus already mentioned.) which is 0,6mm in diameter. So, if the nozzle is 0,6 mm, that would't fit. The 0,8 is actually 1,0mm and the 1,0 is 1,2mm. Rooie Joris printed a life size elephant with a 0,8 nozzle in 4 UMO's:-) No problem at all, if you change the diameter to the right dimensions in Cura, I printed 1,5kg filament with it without cooling problems. (original fan housing) If you have a M6 threadcutterplate, you can also cut the thread up to the original lenght and cut of the extend. Take a good look inside before you do this…but it saves you 10mm building height.
  8. :cool: Tnxx guys... Indeed, piece of cake. Wrong NTC, but that's no problem (10K instead of 100K) new ones are on the way as we speak...
  9. Ok Johnny, I'm on the track and downloaded it without bothering the questions in my head:-) Can't wait to try, tnxx for your input.
  10. :-D Tnxx for filling my weekend with things I didn't planned to do.......:-D Luckily we had some extra days this weekend, love to dig into it, but there are too many questions too answer for now. I have two workshops in our fablab to prepare, I need to translate several pages from a manual for someone who doesn' t read English and a very busy week at work ahead. I will go the whole ten yards, but working for my boss, assisting and leading workshops at the lab and two hours traveling time a day, fills my week with 70-80 hours at the moment. So for now i'll have to find someone who is willing to do it for me.
  11. Hey Robert, I did try. Although the program indicated there was no update for my configuration. Shouldn't it already ready for the HB in 14.01?? Good point though, I'll upgrade to the latest version too. To be continued...
  12. Read almost all the of the heated bed topics but didn't find an answer... I'm running Cura 14.01, Repeated first run wizard, Did also the [Machine settings], [Heated bed] option, In Cura [Heated temperature] 55ºC Soldered a 4K7 resistor to the board on R4, (measured with my Fluke if it makes descent contact) and if it still is 4K7 Ohm. I sliced an object with the heated bed options on. I don't get an indication of the heated bed temperature on my ulticontroller. What am I doing wrong or where should I look? Anyone? Tnxx, Boy
  13. 12much

    hulp gevraagd

    @Ron&Lia bedankt voor het compliment, ik schuif hem door naar de KF:-D ++1 - Dat is een hele goeie. Ik ben alleen bang dat er niet voor gekozen is om te voorkomen dat het de hoofd afdeling op het forum gaat worden en dat is niet zo leuk voor het internationale publiek hier. Maar dat hoeft nog geen reden te zijn om het toch niet uit te voeren voor het overgrote deel van de Nederlandse deelnemers hier. Misschien is het een compromis, om je vraag om verduidelijking/vertaling van de Engelse tekst gewoon in het Nederlands te stellen. Dat kunnen onze buitenlandse lezers natuurlijk ook in het Engels doen. We leven tenslotte in een multiculturele samenleving waarin het Engels van veel buitenlandse deelnemers aan eender welk gesprek, ook niet altijd bepaald duidelijk of zonder spel- en/of stijlfouten is waardoor misverstanden al gauw aan de orde zijn. De moeite waard om het uit te proberen lijkt me. (misschien een nieuw(e) discussie (topic:)) waard? Als je mij aangeeft welke problemen je verder nog tegen komt met de UMII, wil ik best een eventuele standaard workshop met de oplossingen uitbreiden. De basisworkshop voor het fablab is wat algemener uitgevoerd om je vertrouwd te maken met alle machines die we hebben staan, zodat je bij een volgend bezoek zelfstandig aan het werk kan en onze Labmeesters je met een gerust hart kunnen laten knutselen, dus specifieke vragen zullen niet zo snel beantwoord worden. We zien jullie graag terug natuurlijk:-)
  14. 12much

    hulp gevraagd

    je relaas aanhorend is de tip van Xeno, het opmeten met een schuifmaat, je eerste doel. Toevallig heb ik net twee verschillende gevallen onder behandeling. 1 bij een rol van de Kaasfabriek, de ander bij een nieuwe klant van een Classic, die zijn eerste prints om en om ziet veranderen in luchtledige prints met soms een wirwar van draadjes en soms helemaal niets. Controleer vooraf de afstelling van de veerdruk op het filament. Ik kan je helaas niet uitleggen hoe dat bij de II moet. Eén advies, hang je rol op zijn eigen houder, trek er 5 - 10 meter van af. Zet het begin met plakband stevig vast aan een deurkruk oid en meet met je schuifmaat om de 10cm de dikte van het filament. Je hoeft je geen zorgen te maken over een paar tiende milimeter te dun, 0,1mm te dik geeft al problemen. We hebben stukken van 2.0mm gevonden dat is funest. De hele rol is dan verdacht. Hel filament wordt als 3,0mm aangeduid, is echter 2,85mm in de ideale situatie. Als je klaar bent met opmeten, haak je de rol van de houder en rolt deze op naar het begin toe. Doe dat zorgvuldig en stop het begin meteen terug in de extruder of in een gaatje van de rolhouder. Doe je dat niet, legt het filament gemakkelijk onderweg een lus over zichzelf en dan heb je alsnog onderweg een probleem. Wil je een paar extra ogen die meekijken, kun je a.s donderdagavond bij Fablab de Kaasfabriek in Alkmaar langskomen, dan ben ik er zelf van 19-22.00uur. Donderdag en vrijdagmiddag ben je ook welkom tot 17.00uur, maar dan ben ik er zelf niet. De donderdag daarop is een terugkomavond van de Ultimaker workshop van het weekend daarvoor en heb ik afhankelijk van de aandacht die de bouwers van mij vragen iets minder tijd, maar de koffie staat klaar:-) En het is ook leuk voor deze mensen om eens een UMII in levende lijve te zien.
  15. De Kaasfabriek got it too and it was running almost the whole afternoon, while we where building 5 Ultimakers. I showed a shy 5 year old kid how it works and he was The Man whole day, explaining how it works to the visitors, which included a 90 year old Grande Dame also:) I see some difference. I told mine the filament is 2.85 and the printhight 0.1mm. The speed could be higher also the temperature. Mine was set at 230ºC automatically. Not much tinkering, but maybe it'll make the difference. We where printing with UM's white PLA, some babyblue and black. The first layer should stick!! So try to adjust the bed to 0.1mm or less. Have fun, the kids do (and all of the adults too:-D
  16. That's not so hard, and the price you pay now is for a better type ... http://www.hbm-machines.com Talk to them, negotiate about any better accessories you want and look for chisels with interchangeable bits etc at the same time, because they're cheaper than I've seen them anywhere ... (running for a few years at our professional lathe and no strange symptoms taken.) I bought also double action airbrushes for a tenth of the price my DeVilbis = gear have cost. and then you get some spare needles (10 euros each for DV) nozzles, balls and seals at which you should buy for the total price of this sprayer! I wanted them to spray on location and didn't mind if they are then whacked once, but the quality (except for the cheap plastic packaging) is excellent. Furthermore ratchet tools, an anvil, hydraulic tools, machinegraded steel etc bought from them and no comments.No connections or family also:-) Dat valt wel mee, en die prijs betaal je nu voor een typje beter... Praat met ze, onderhandel over eventuele betere accessoires en kijk gelijk naar beitels met wisselbits etc, want goedkoper dan daar heb ik ze nog nergens gezien...(draaien alweer een paar jaar bij ons op profi banken en geen rare klachten.) Ik heb ook double action airbrushes van hun gekocht voor een tiende van de prijs die mijn De Vilbis=jes hebben gekost. en dan krijg je er nog reserve naalden (10 euro per stuk bij DV) spuitmondjes, kogeltjes en afdichtringen bij die je anders apart moet kopen voor de totaalprijs van deze spuiten!! Ik wilde ze hebben om op locatie te spuiten en workshops te geven, niet erg als ze dan een keer gemold worden, maar de kwaliteit (op de goedkope verpakking na) is uitstekend. Verder ratelgereedschap, aambeeldjes, hydraulisch gereedschap, gereedschapstaal etc bij ze gekocht en geen op= of aanmerkingen. Ook geen connecties of familie van me dus....
  17. skirt just shows you, there's plastic coming from your nozzle and sticking to your bed. Excellent moment to adjust your Z-axis one or two clicks if nescesary. Brim does the same thing, untill almost at your oblect, clamping to it, so you'll help the object not to warp sharp corners or edges. If you have the choice, I'll stick to the brim.
  18. I underscribe Mastory's method. It's not sophisticated, but trust me on this, hardly anyone starts a print and walks away. There are several suggestions and idea's to solve this matter. If it gives you (all) some comfort, at work we have a €30.000,= Rapid prototyping machine, containing two heads (a Dimension) which does excactly the same. Therefore there is a steel brush with a container screwed in the backside of the machine, were it always starts tot wiggle for a few seconds, while extruding both filaments. If there is a certain amount of time passed between changing filament, it will repeat this procedure. Hopefully, there will be a sort of solution for this problem, but in the mean time you should use the Brim feature. In the older versions of cura it was called skirt with a slightly different behaviour. If you are planning a large object, you should take in conideration to lower the value in Expert settings, otherwise Cura will not slice it. Welcome here, especially residing in Utrecht:-D
  19. - I dearly agree with this comment. - The next thing is the comment included with the picture made by the upkoader to explain things. It is only then visible when the uploader looks into it him/herself. - It is nearly clear which pictures are newly uploaded or changed in a design. There is a recent topic bar on the main page, but I would like a button which will show all the recent and commented topics and/or updated ones. This has to replace the original main page and can be back warded. - If a design is commented, you get an annotation email to tell you so (if wanted) I get 3 of them at the same time. - If I click on the annotation email to go to my inbox, I really not want to be there but at the actual comment, is that possible? - I would love a mobile app to do so (I know, I know) but a mobile version of the site would be the best second offer:-) @Mod: If it is preferable to divide these suggestions in different topics, be my guest or tell me so and I'll take care of it myself.
  20. I was just doing that before I went to work (not a smart time to do such thing btw:-) but although an old DosBox fanatic, I'm not familiair enough with this stuff. Wondering were Daid hides the program:-) So I decided to give it another go. Some guy from a Volvo forum was interested, but this one was totally clean (same file, same printer) Shoot me !! I also put a strip of blue tape just before the overhang started to be printed and this one is even totally closed at that particular spot. It is a ghostwriter :mrgreen:
  21. Tnxx gr5, I've done that and none of them is altered. Good suggestion, I forgot completely I'd done that :oops: so it has to be the Marlin setting, although it seems strange it didn't happen from the start...
  22. Project is just within boundaries of platform and Cura 13.6.4 and 13.6.2 dont want to slice it. Icon stays grey without SD or toolpathlogo. Version 13.4 is less scrupulus and starts slicing. Everyting looks fine while printing and the only mishap is Cura trying to produce a oneliner support from 200mm lenght. No problem though. Half way through I stretched a piece of blue tape over the object and it could be fixed for yhe moment. The two thin slices tape in the wall are no problem for me. But, almost at the end, (7-8 hours print) it relocates the printing in one direction. No collissions, belts are fine, homing without screaming belts, I was watching when it happened....anyone any idea? Every print after this one, even with 13.4 sliced objects, is perfect, even on the same hight. I've not yet tried to print it again. Pic's can be found here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/220-cura-performs-a-sidekick/
  23. Thought so:-) Tnxx, I'll see you soon enough @Alkmaar.
  24. Owen, you are the MAN :cool: Thanks! Owens advice: I'd been having trouble like you with my signature so I went back into to edit it and instead of copying and pasting I deleted everything and typed it all in. ALL lowercase no spaces, no quotes. PS, I actually put in the quotes, how about reading :???: the trick is in the deleting and typing. - 12much
  25. It was a nice but very busy event yesterday. I was assisted by my brother in law and his two teenager sons. We didn't have time to eat or drink because of all the questions. Public was very curious, enthusiastic and several guys and ladies kept coming back with new questions and requests to print something. We (mostly my two jung assistants:-) demonstrated several programs like 123D design and catch and I made actually two rather difficult examples. One because it was so tiny, a handwheel with 5 spokes and an axle from 1mm thickness. And an example from clear pla which thickness had to be only 0,18mm !! The guy wanted material for his headlights with leds build into. Both items passed the test off course:-D We used one laptop for demonstrating 3D programs and the other one to show what was printed at that time. We build the Ultimaker robots, 9 in a row and one after the other. In that way we could break one of the platform to give away at children who kept coming back or after setting an alarm on their cellphone. I also brought a vacuformer to demonstrate how easy it is to print the molds you need for this thing. I made several blisters and at the time some ladies and one chefcook realised how easy it is to make baking forms for cookies......Fortunately it is possible to build a lowcost one yourself at Protospace in Utrecht. I bought mine years ago for a lot of money and I really don't know where to buy them now. I brought a huge packet of Ultimaker flyers and a handful from Protospace. If 1% buys an Ultimaker or builds one at Protospace, then there will be 3 new forum users :mrgreen: You can look for an impression at the following gallery: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/219-modelbrouwersdag-gorinchem-2013/ Have fun, we did. PS: I'm sorry for the darkness on a lot of pic's. My cam's flashlight isn't strong enough under these circumstances.
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