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Everything posted by johank

  1. While the upgrades/add-ons for the Ultimaker original has been discontinued you should still be able to get the spare parts through your local reseller. The Ultipanel rev1.1 is product no 1146 for ease of communication. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/blob/master/1146_Ultipanel_Rev_1.1/B1146-Z1P-A.PDF
  2. @prb4: Looking through the gcode you posted named 14.09 I can only find a single G10 (retrection) command in the code at the very end. Also the extrusion values are as far as I can tell increasing, never decreasing (only checked for non-strictly increasing in the mathematical sense).
  3. @prb4: It seems the 14.09 gcode does not have retractions enabled.
  4. My guess is the power adapter can't deliver enough juice when the heated bed comes on. Try if turning the heat bed off will allow you to start a print.
  5. I think the "None" type in old Cura is actually like "Skirt" in Cura 2.1.2.
  6. In Cura 2.1.2, make sure "Union Overlapping Volumes" under "Mesh Fixes" is checked. The supports should be fine. The missing supports was a problem with the old Cura. That the model is broken is not a Cura issue, but Cura has options to _try_ to fix it. You should always check if Cura does what you expect and if not fix your model in an appropriate modelling software.
  7. For the support Cura looks down vertically from the areas that need support. If the area in need of support is above the platform support is generated if support is turned on regardless of your support choice. If the part that needs support is above another part of the model you have to use support everywhere to generate that support. The model in your last picture doesn't look like it needs support anywhere the support would be build from somewhere on the model. When it comes to troubleshooting have you tried using another spool of PLA filament?
  8. If you are using an official Ultimaker 2 main board you don't need the extra amplifier, just connect the pt100 sensor to the input pins. You might want to change the connector.
  9. Hi, To be perfectly clear, the Ultimaker 2+ and every other Ultimaker printer is designed to be used with 2.85 mm filament. Not being able to print 1.75 mm filament is not an error it's a design choice. A printer designed for 1.75 mm filament will never be able to print 2.85mm filament, it simply wont fit. The same is true for a 2.85 mm printer like the Ultimaker, but for other reasons. Please use the correct diameter filament for your printer. Because the Ultimaker is open source people with enough know-how will be able to adapt it for use with 1.75 mm filament. However, this will require
  10. I think Ultimaker is currently using Sunon MC25060V1. When looking at that last picture the dent seems to be higher up than usual and I find the green deposits on the inside kind of strange. What kind of (PLA) filament is that? Also, could you post a picture of the top of your heater block?
  11. @Nicolinux: Do you check "Remember me" when logging in?
  12. Why should you need to strip away the youtube.com part. Seems cumbersome and error prone to copy part of the link only. I think it would be more intuitive and easier to allow "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=...." to be pasted. I can't see why that would make it harder to figure out which video should be embedded. You can still allow "/watch?v=...." since that already works
  13. When Marlin starts it checks EEPROM_VERSION of the current firmware versus a string stored in the EEPROM, if they match Marlin loads the stored settings from the EEPROM. If you have saved your settings to EEPROM and rebuilds Marlin with different motion parameters but with the same EEPROM_VERSION the saved settings will override the defaults on load until you manually restore the defaults. Factory reset is one way of reseting the defaults. Cura could connect to the printer after the firmware has been installed and reset the settings to default, but I don't think it does.
  14. Does lowering the speed help with the problem? It could be that the E-steps isn't setup right. Best way to actually test is to connect the printer to your computer using Pronterface (or similar) and tell it to feed 10cm and measure. When installing a custom firmware you sometimes need to do a factory reset for the default settings to actually get loaded. Some other culprits could be the Olsson block touching the fan bracket or the hot-end cooling fan (middle) not blowing enough.
  15. Hi @Atibbles, I'ts actually quite impressive if Cura only missed a few layers of your model because there isn't a single closed volume. There are a lot of shells and small surface speckles. Generally it should be the role of the scanner software to create a solid model ("watertight") or at the very least join different scans from different angles to one single surface model (fuse the scans). Also the registration of the different surfaces in the model are quite off. I actually suspect the scanner hardware is not properly calibrated so that the scans won't fit together nicely no matter how h
  16. @Atibbles: If you share the data I could try using meshmixer.
  17. Have you tried the different Fix Horrible under Expert Settings. The Fix horrible settings can save your model or it can get it totally wrong, but it's worth a try. Netfabb basic doesn't suffice for most broken models, the online service does a much more thorough job.
  18. Sounds like a hardware issue. There could be an electrical problem with the wires or the encoder. I have seen this issue on one machine where a thin strand of filament ended up inside the knob housing between the knob and the housing preventing the button from being pushed far enough to register. There is a small hole in the housing inside the printer where you can push to remove the knob and clean out the housing.
  19. lukem96, Try running your model through cloud.netfabb.com/ which fix a lot of common problems.
  20. Have you tried using another type of filament, Ultimaker PLA white for instance? I would recommend you give it a try.
  21. Just a small note, bed at 60C is for PLA plastic. Different types of plastics require different bed temperatures.
  22. Hi Joshh, The damage is not too bad as far as I can see. You will need to get a new PT100B sensor and perhaps a heater cartridge (can't find it in the photos). Usually You can clean up the nozzle if you heat it up to 100+ degrees C and wipe it off. If the heater cartridge is ok, one of these Hot-end-pack should be enough to fix your machine. It may contain more parts than you need but its good to have spares. It also contains a small ring to prevent further similar problems. Cheers, Johan
  23. Hi Rob, Have you made sure the set screws for the pulleys on the motor axes are tight as well?
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