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Everything posted by baasb

  1. Thanks Arjan! I really liked everybodies enthusiastic reactions and participation yesterday. If you'd like to keep track of my prints and paintjobs you can subscribe to my FB page: 3DeBijl Facebook page Hope to see you there!
  2. Thanks Sander, I'm looking forward to this as it also will be my first Ulti-evening! See you guys there
  3. Wow, that's very nice! Looks like nougat with dried fruit
  4. Very cool plotter! Clever to use a modular printhead to swop between the applications.
  5. I did prime it with an airbrush, but still a thin covering layer. Because the model was printed at 0.06 mm, the layers were hardly visible. And the general shape of the model helps with that: no bridging required and a nice 'pyramid-like' shape (from large base to small top). I have to say that this print is one of the best I've ever got in terms of quality, mainly due to the reasons above. The actual paintwork was done with brushes. I think, partly because I only just began with airbrushing, that the model is too small. But then again, I've seen people airbrush models as tiny as their thum
  6. Well since half a year or so, I've dived into the world of miniature painting. There are a lot of techniques, tips and tricks of which I've only unraveled just a few I've painted the different parts separately, that means the eyes, the face, scarf, shirt and jacket. Of course the whole model is primed with a suitable primer for plastics. Then each part is painted in the desired base-color. So, neutral skin color for the face. Then, with diluted paint in a darker tone of the base-color the recesses, like the wrinkles and ears, are painted. More and more layers are put on to gradually build u
  7. While searching trough Thingiverse I stumbled upon this very detailed bust of president Roosevelt. It's printed at 0.06 mm and didn't need any post-processing at all! I've tried to paint it as realistic as possible and I'm very happy with the result. The original print doesn't have glasses, only the nose-part. With a lighter I've stretched out some PLA to make it into a thin strand. Then bended it to a round shape, painted it, and put a bubble of diluted glue in it (just like if you're blowing bubbles). The glue then dried almost transparant giving the appearance of glass inside the glasses
  8. Hi all, I've painted this very nice 3D model made by 'Othar'. I used it mainly to practice on painting natural stuff. Printed nice at 0.075 layer but from now on I will be printing only on 0.06 as that is giving superb quality.
  9. #TinyDancer, Thanks! I have an Evolution Silverline from Harder&Steenbeck. And I looove this airbrush regarding ease of use and, especially, cleaning it is a breeze. This in combination with a Sparmax TC-620X compressor. It's not the cheapest, but the compressor is not something you want to save money on . It is very quiet and is pressurized to 4 bar in about 40 seconds. This was my first airbrushed model and I have a lot more to practice. I think painting the prints makes them even more interesting then they already are!
  10. Hi guys and girls, I fell in love with this model when I saw it on thingiverse. It turned out to be a Phantom Titan from the Warhammer 40K games. I've cut every part, the gun, the arm, the leg etc. in two pieces to print it properly at 0.1 height. Then sanded, applied plastic putty and sanded again. It's the first model on which I have used an airbrush and I love how smooth some of the transitions can be made with it. Additionally some stones and scenery were printed to make a base for the Titan. The total height is 15 cm. Enjoy!
  11. Hey guys, here my latest projects. The first a model I found on thingiverse which I liked. He is called Yi Sun-sin and the print is 12 cm heigh. And the next, yet another lightsaber :wink: But this one is painted (with hand brushes). This week I've bought an airbrush so hopefully in the near future a print painted with that!
  12. Thanks UltiArjan! I just recently started with painting. I started by reading a lot of websites about miniature-painting. And although the printed models are (much) bigger than typical miniatures, the same techniques can be used. In short, after a good spay-can priming I've put on a basecoat color. So blue or brown for the metal parts, red for details and sand-brown for the main body. After that I've put on the metal colors. Then starting to build up the shadows with darker colors of the basecoat and using "washes" which are very dilute paints/inks which go into all the crevices of the model.
  13. Hey guys, When I see al the amazing creations posted in this section, I can't hardly compete! But nevertheless I would like to show my latest finished piece: Thor. I already printed it some time ago, and now I wanted to paint it so printed it again (this time at 0.05 layer for better finish). Check it out
  14. @ Braddock I agree with you. This model was downloaded from Thingiverse some time ago and I gave it this name because it reminds me about the game Abe's Oddysee. I didn't thought that this name would be clearly visible for others as I only intended to use if for my own recognition. I've changed the name. Keep up the good work, I really enjoy those high-poly models!
  15. Hi guys, It's a long time ago I've posted on the forum but I recently started not only to print again, but also paint some of the prints. I think some of you will recognize the following two figures. They're printed at 0.05 layerheight so (I think) no sanding or other treatment is necessary before painting. At first I was not interested in painting at all but it is a very fun extension to the already wonderfull printing experience!
  16. Regarding the 'spiralize' bug, version 14.01 works perfectly. Even when setting 0.8 or bigger wall thicknesses. But I want to use this option together with pauze at Z.. which is'nt working in 14.01 So something happend with the sipralize option during the transition of 14.01 to 14.02.
  17. Got something strange when selecting the 'spiralize outer contour' setting. The outline changes into this star- / snowflake- shape line. It's supposed to be a double walled (0.8mm) vase: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126567
  18. Daid, please bring back pause at z for Mac users! I've downloaded all available plugins for changing filament at Z but none of them works. And this one, which is uploaded by you, is not downloadable: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_Pauseatz Would be great to change filament again in version 14! Thanks
  19. After printing Hellboy's head, you obviously also need the gun! Took I long time, but I think the result is amazing. All printed at 0.075. 'The Samaritan'
  20. Super nice models guys, especially Xeno! My other creative thing is making music! Nothing physical, but you can check it here: " data-controller="core.front.core.autosizeiframe" data-embedid="2390754802e3b6cf3345e74648449406" allowfullscreen="">" data-controller="core.front.core.autosizeiframe" data-embedId='a9a96fc111e299068671e60cf852f410' allowfullscreen=''> https://soundcloud.com/bas-de-bijl
  21. After a lot of printing hours I got this!
  22. Is there no problem on the 'non-fan' side? I use two fans to ensure optimum cooling on both sides. I really love the crossflow fan design but if you are printing a big object, isn't this blocking the air completely to the other side?
  23. Yeah.. it's a automated piping bag. You can do the things in the video much faster by hand. Plus, you always have to perpare the stuff which you wan't to print which probably takes the most time. So it's not really 'printing a diner'.
  24. I also had these. But I have the feeling that the spring 'gives' a little, each time the motor pulls on the side with the tensioner on it. So I changed to a more fixed tensioner, this one below: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:184373 Very easy to install and set the tension.
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