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My Zulu Glasses Holder!

Ok, I think that specially with PLA you don't need to worry so much. PLA, as it is a polymer of lactic acid, is edible and although the properties change when in lager particles, as a chemist, I think it's safe. ABS on the other hand is more harmful because it consists of three reactive monomers. All three with very low boiling points so when printing, a lot of these monomers evaporate. Two of these, acrylonitrile and butadiene, are carcinogen and should therefore be avoided. Last but not least, I've also read this article in a Dutch newspaper and the conclusion said that although 3D-printing releases nano-particles, the amount never exceeded the levels of other household appliances! Think of a laser (paper)printer which releases a lot more nano particles (toner). And if you'd like to smoke a cigaret during your newest 3D print.. you should more worry about that cigaret then about your printer :smile:

The problem is that it's not the last layer. After the solid infill it has to print two more small columns on the corners (to hold the second floor of the house). So it just starts to fill in after the walls are finished. this is the house: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26244 I use 0.7 scale, 0,08 layer, 0.8 walls, 0.48 bottom/top Daid?

Yes I tried, even with all these options unchecked, it still want's to print a solid top. Noooo idea why!

On the A-Ray I don't see anything like a roof. Only that some of the furniture is not connected (I suppose that that is what the red means).

Hey Daid, I've started with printing the two story spec house (agaaaain) but now with the new version of Cura. So as you see, the model should be open on the top to see the insides. The .stl model is open on the top, but why does Cura fill in the top?? I've only selected 'extensive stitching' and tried to deselect 'solid infill on top' but this doesn't make a difference. What to do?

I see a lot of posts about buying these pullies but how about fixing pulley inaccuracy?? Do you really get (much) better results with the new pullies? And does somebody have some before and after photo's? I'm curious! :grin:

I wan't to know the same thing. I asked for this in another topic but with also no reply's (yet). Somebody from UM should know this right???

Very nice design foehnsturm! The first thing were I was looking for when starting with a new cooling design was also a radial fan. But I could only find very expensive ones which could not blow air trough the small silicon tube that I use. But seeing your design makes me realize that it just takes a bigger tube to ensure a good airflow! What's the name of the tube you're using?

Hi all, I'm finished with my prototype: I use a 12V blower. The 220V version makes way too much noise. I'm still experimenting with the air slots that are cut out the silicon tubes. Probably need to redesign the suspension because it's getting soft during print because it's attached to the aluminium plate (although there is some 'insulating' tape in between). I think with this design, it's really easy to add another splitter with silicon tube which cools the aluminium plate and so creating a cold-zone.

But still, does anybody know how much current I can draw from the fan-circuit?

For sure, I've been looking for an air-source the past few days. I've got two 12V membrane-pumps laying around but they don't generate enough pressure for a nice breeze. I found some very cheap compressors capable of 30 L/min which is perfect. They're only 10 euro's. I guess they are very noisy ;-)

Hi all, At this moment I have two fans with fanducts on the printhead which are increasing the weight and size of the head. Due to the mass and size, when printing, the head is vibrating a lot causing a lot of ringing. To reduce this effect, I wan't to replace both fans with simple silicon tubes which are blowing air. This hardly has any weight and is also a lot smaller in size, making the acces to the nozzle a lot better. I'm still figuring out how to set this up exactly but first I have a question. How many ampere or how many Watts can I draw from the fan-circuit?

Oh yes, I totally forgot that that was one of the main reasons I'd like to modify the ducts. But I cut of som of the housing of the fans to that they would fit under the blocks... let's just say that it works ;-)

Oooh that's why they call it FabLab

Yeah.. If I only could produce the prints that you make.. :wink:

Yeah, I recognize this problem. I also work on a Mac and I think it has something to do with the fact that on Mac OS not all the screens are shown sometimes. As long as one parameter has not been filled in yet, Cura doesn't start slicing. For instance, if you backspace the layerheight and you don't set a value for it, Cura doesn't slice. So, I think that in a 'hidden' window you still have an undefined parameter. This escpecially happens with the dropdown menu for selecting the support!! This dropdown menu acts like it is a different screen and doesn't show up all the time. So then it looks like everything is filled in properly but in fact the dropdown menu is still in it's 'select your choice'-state. You can 'fix' this by clicking on the Cura logo down in the programsmenu. Then it should show all the screens.

Plus, it secretly takes photo's and sends them to the NSA :mrgreen:

Wow thanks man! I gave up all hope because no one replied :wink: I'm going to print this fanduct and see how the results are. I think I'll add a rectangle to connect the two suspension pieces to make it thicker. Because this piece gets easily fatigued due to the vibrations. I can do that myself in TinkerCad

Hello, I'd like to ask someone to help me with modifying two STL files with fanducts. I really love the design of these fanducts which are designed by Blecheimer. But, they are designed for the V1 nozzle. And although they worked great initially, after a while there were some problems: - The right nozzle blows a little bit too high, right on the nozzle and thus cooling it. - The ducts are clamped on the wooden block and the aluminium plate. The heat of the aluminium plate deforms the duct and after a while it comes loose. - The upper 'clamps' are very thin and due to the vibrations, they're getting very weak. - Because of this deforming and weakening of the clamps, the ducts start to come loose and touch the bed and printed object. The left fanduct became so loose that because of the vibrations it touched the heatingblock and melted to it. - With the fans fixed on the duct, the whole unit is a little bit too high and so touching the wooden XY blocks on the left and right. I had to scrape away the black casing of the fan to make them fit under the blocks so the head could move freely. As I am not very skilled with 3D modelling I would like to ask is somebody can fix the fanducts so they fit the V2 nozzle. That would mean: - The right fanduct has to blow under the nozzle, so tilted some degrees counter clockwise. - Decreasing the total height of the duct so that it is further away from the bed/print (now it's 0.2 mm higher than the nozzletip). - Strenghtening the upper clamp so that it can handle the vibrations better. The files are below: Left Fan Duct Right Fan Duct I'm willing to testprint the modified nozzles to see if they fit better!

Today I finished this buste. I printed the base separately from the buste and added some manual supports for the 'chest' and the chin. 0,1 layerheight.

Alright! I'll check that out tonight

Ok, that would be great :smile: And one more thing which I really miss are the up- and down-buttons for selecting a specific layer! Now, with large prints, it sometimes jumps with steps of 6 layers when sliding through them. But I'm sure you're very busy with all this. The results of the last version are already fantastic.

I'm also using sewingmachine oil. It works fine but it 'evaporates' very quickly.. I thought it would stay much longer regarding the high boilingpoint of oils. Maybe it has a large portion of solvents.