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Hey Daid, Yesterday I was printing a buste and noticed this: The infill starts fine, just the normal square infill lines. But then, when the print gets wider, the lines from upper-left to down-right stay straight but the down-left to upper-right lines are shifting. So you get these diagonal 'walls' as infill. And because the lines shift so much that they don't touch eachother, it affects the strenght of the infill. I hope it's clear what I mean :wink: This is not a very big problem but still something that maybe can be fixed.

Great tip!

Wow, that looks great. Also, nice drawing/technical skills :wink: Are you able to manufacture this hotend?

Also, using 'duplicate outlines' doesn't make sense if you don't have an infill. Instead, just set the layerheight at 0.04 - 0.05 mm. I don't know why you wan't 0% infill but if it is to spare on filament.. then don't do this. You're trhowing away more plastic then you spare with this method. If you use 10% infill in combination with a top/bottom height of atleast 5x the layerheight, it doesn't cost that much more filament and will give you much better prints without gaps!

Yes, this option is still available but... It's now very hard to see how far it sinks at the bottom. In the previous version you could check this by looking from the bottom on to the object and the part that was lowered, had a different color. Best features I think is to add more then one object, move objects and different speeds for wall thickness and infill! I still miss some options but that was to be expected ;-) Keep up the great work Daid!

Also, don't forget to deselect 'Solid infill top' in the expert options :wink:

Yes, that definitely makes it better! But unfortunately Cura makes a lot of 'unnecessary' movements which causes imperfections... Hope that the new slices makes a big difference regarding these movements :smile:

I use a small torch lighter to melt away very thin strings and to even out the surface after cutting away blobs and other pieces. After cutting the PLA, it leaves a whitish discolorment on the print but when quickly "brushing" over it with the flame, it becomes the original color again.

How we love heads! Here's my latest print of Hellboy in Warm Red from Colorfabb. 9x9 cm with 0.08 layerheight. It was a pain in the a to take off the supports which were embedded in the file :wink:

Well, you can only retract the solid part of the filament and, for the first few seconds, the molten filament will also be retracted due to adhesion. But a (big) piece of the molten filament (especially the part closest to the nozzle) will come loose from the solid filament and starts to drip/ooze out of the nozzle. You can easily try this by slowly retracting the filament by hand without printing.

Yep, I would also wan't to know the answer to this question. I have the same thing, much less than on your pictures but still...

I think that the molten plastic will be pushed upwards, around the incomming filament. Normally, the 3.00 mm closes the gap, so the molten filament can only go one way, out the nozzle. But with 1.75 the sides are open...

I had exactly the same thing as you. Some parts that seem to be 'higher' then others (when printing a big square). And also the strang lines in it. I think that if you have a deformation in one line, all the adjacent lines get the same deformation on that spot because it sticks to the deformation.. if you know what I mean.. the printed line folows the form of the previous line. I did not worry about this issue much because the second or third layer fixed it most of the time.

Thanks man

Downloaded :mrgreen:

That robot looks cool man! Is it your own design?

My latest prints Height is 35 cm. This metropolis took 36 hours to print but totally worth it!

Hey all, I've finished building my Heated Bed upgrade and wan't to share some pictures with you: The kapton heaters with adhesive back stick to the aluminium and the thermistor is clamped against the heater (for best temperature reading). I've attached the bed using the same screws and some heat-resistant rubber bushings. For now, the temperature controller is attached with an elastic band but I'll have to print a nice casing for it. I've calibrated/adjusted the temperature with an external thermometer and when printing the temperature varies with only max 2 degrees. I'm VERY happy with the result and the prints are super straight with a nice finish because I print directly on the aluminium plate. I've tried blue tape but it adheres so good that I had to rip the tape appart to get the print of. For the first layer I set the bed to 80 degrees and from the second layer on I use 68 degrees (using PLA from Formfutura which is a little bit more gummy at the transition temperature). Can anyone advise me about using fans or not? I don't see a lot of difference if I put the fans on or off. Fans off gives results just as good so I would like to take the fans of the head. Unless it better to use them??

Hi corngolem, It's not that the oozing only appears with 2 hot ends, it also occurs with only 1. You obviously noticed this just before or after a print. The plastic leaks out of the hot end. So, when printing with one hot end, the other hot end starts oozing and so ruining your print. As far as I know, the oozing problem is 'solved' by adding a cold-zone above the hot end and the filament is retracted into the cold zone. There it solidifies and prevents oozing.

I don't agree with you that a heated bed is a waste of time when printing PLA. A couple days ago I've added a heated bed and it's a HUGE difference. I only print with PLA and all the parts come out 100% flat and with a better bottom structure since I print directly on smooth aluminium rather than the blue tape which leaves marks.

Amazing, good choice for the color too!

Hey blecheimer, I also have two fans using the fan duct of Ian. But could you please share the stl files for the fan ducts that you use? I'm attaching a heated bed to my UM and want the fan ducts to blow more precise at the nozzle. Your's look perfect!

Hey guys, I wan't to share my progress in adding a Heated Bed to my Ultimaker. I find it hard to find the right information for adding a HB and it seems that everyone has his/her own approach. There are many options like the kind of heater (silicon, kapton, PCB), powersupply (12, 24, 230 V) etc. etc. My solution probably doesn't make the choice for a HB more easy but maybe it has some useful information for you. At first, I wanted to attach the Heated Bed directly to the UM PCB and I almost go all the parts. Then, when I was about to solder the resistor and other parts to the PCB I decided to take another approach and build the Heated Bed as a separate system. I'm not super skilled with electronics and I don't want to destroy the PCB (using my 230V heaters), spent 200,- on a new PCB and be back where I started from... After all, controlling the Heated Bed with the UM PCB needs parts from which it's not very clear which these should be, and also a lot of topics report about problems varying from bad temperature readings to blown up MOSFETS. So, to make the Heated Bed as a separate system I've gathered the folowing items: - Digital Temperature Controller: http://www.tjskl.org.cn/products-search/czab7db1/220v_digital_thermostat_temperature_thermostat_switch_wh7016c-pz23367ad.html If you search for the item numer, which is WH7016C, you'll probably find a lot of sources in your own country. It comes with a temperature sensor. Range up to 100 *C. I bought it for 19 euro's. - Kapton Heaters: http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=KHR_KHLV_KH I've got two KH-508's from the company that I work for. If you order directly from the site, of course you could/should get just one with the right size. BUT, since they are 115 V, I'll use two in series to use 230 V directly from what comes out of the walls in Holland. Size is 20 x 12,5 cm, comes with 3M adhesive back. - Aluminium plate: http://www.aluminiumopmaat.nl/ This is a Dutch site which provides custom made aluminium plates in almost every size (graag gedaan). So you don't have to buy like a square meter... I've got 26 x 24 x 0,3 cm. The 24 cm side is the same as the acrylic platform, so it fits onto the screws. The 26 cm is for holding the two 12,5 cm heaters which leaves 0,5 cm space on the sides. Prices for the plate was 4 euro but shipping cost 18 euro (hahaha shit). I found this part to be the hardes to find for a low price... Furthermore some parts like, power switch, wiring and probably a safety bi-metal switch. So, maybe needles to say, but I will attach the adhesive heaters to the aluminium plate. Drill holes, a little bit bigger than the screws and attach them using a rubber bushing for insulation and expansion of the plate. Then somehow attach the temperature sensor to the board and connect everything to the temperature controller. I'm still waiting to receive the last parts so when I've got them, I'll post again! To be Continued

The newer version PCB's (I think 1.5.7 and higher) use 24V for the blower to ensure good cooling for the stepperdrivers and especially the MOSFET. Older versions use 12V.

The lowest I'll ever print is 0.1 mm. I think that if you go lower then that, other variables are becoming more importent. For example at 0.05 mm, the effect of the deviation of the filament-thickness becomes much more important. The filament always variates a little bit in thickness (maybe 0.02 or 0.03 mm through the whole spool). Also when the head is travelling over the object can cause more damage to the print because of the small layerheight. And many more things like this. The bigger the object you're printing, the bigger the layerheight can be to still get a very smooth finish. Indeed lowering the printspeed improves overhangs but still, because it's a small object, the extruded plastic doesnt have enough time to cool before the 210C nozzle touches it again... Adding a second fan helps a lot! And optimizing the PLA diameter so that it's JUST enough and you don't get over-extrusion. For straight objects without overhangs a little bit overextrusion of no problem, sometimes even better but with small objects and overhangs it's better that it extrudes only the nescesary ammount of plastic.