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wemperor

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  1. Das klingt immer interessanter. Inzwischen habe ich auch einen Bericht über einen Ultimaker mit Filamentschmierung gefunden. Der folgende Gegenstand: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:48646 wird an eine Penetration der Bowde angebracht, so dass man Öl reinspritzen kann. Der Anwender dort hat PTFE/Keramik Spray genommen, in dem Fall ist mir Rapsöl aber deutlich lieber. Ich würde also ein kleines Loch an der Bowde bohren und über eine Kanüle hocherhitzbares Öl einbringen, damit der Extruder nicht versaut wird. Testberichte gibts dann im Verlauf der Woche.
  2. Hi, es gibt, kommend von anderen 3D Druckern reichlich gute Erfahrungsberichte über den Nutzen von kleinen Mengen Rapsöl auf dem PLA Filament. Die Anwendung sieht angeblich so aus, dass vor jedem Druck ein kleiner Tropfen auf den vordersten Bereich des Filaments aufgetragen wird. Dadurch werden Extruder Jams verhindert und die Qualität des Drucks angeblich massiv erhöht. Die Diskussion erstreckt sich hier: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/Wn-MKC1Ybm0/discussion%5B1-25-false%5D Und es gibt sogar schon Ansätze das Filament dauerhaft zu ölen: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:103729 Da unser Ultimaker immer wieder kleinere Probleme mit Verstopfungen oder zu niedriger Extrusion hat, klang das ganz spannend. Es scheint auch noch niemand mit dem Ultimaker getestet zu haben, oder lieg ich da falsch? Wenn es noch keine Berichte gibt, würde ich das die Tage einmal vorsichtig testen.
  3. Hi Markus, eine schöne Geschichte und eine spannende Lösung von der ich noch nie gehört habe. Aus meinen bisherigen Erfahrungen mit den alten Mendel Prusa Repraps und dem ersten Ultimaker ist die nachhaltigste Lösung die Beklebung des Glas-Heatbeds mit Kaptonband. Wenn es sauber ist haftet PLA bei ca. 60° bestens und es lässt sich nach dem Abkühlen einfach wieder ablösen. Wir drucken auf diese Weise seit ein paar Jahren und haben alle Probleme in Sachen Warp bei PLA damit gelöst. Das Kapton ist sehr beständig und muss nur jedes Halbe Jahr mal gewechselt werden, wenn der Druckkopf zu tief gefahren ist, oder man zu ungeduldig mit dem Messer die Bauteile abgelöst hat und die Oberfläche beschädigt. Kannst Du ja mal probieren wenn deine 200 ml leer sind
  4. That´s interesting and I have a theory on that, which relates to the missing belt tension. I have watched Cura to produce printing patterns that are not following always a similar movement pattern. For example some layers will be printed clockwise and then counterclockwise. This is quite nice for path optimiziation, regarding ooze and other issues. But if your belts are loose, the printing head will randomly get a little offset, depending on acceleration and movement. Other slicers will make super identical moves on every layer, which prevents this issue. I´m gonna try another slicer the next days and see what happens. Thank´s for the input!
  5. It´s funny, after testing almost everything, including a new nozzle, it came out, the tension of the belts was not proper. After a year of printing they have lost tension, but it felt still stiff. I probably did not notice the difference as the change was so slow. Anyway, after including these nice belt tensioner http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 the print´s looks as awesome as the beginning. Now I´ve a spare nozzle, new cooling fans, a rebuilt heatbed and probably one month of mad while searching for solutions Thanks for all the good help anyway!
  6. Ok, after reassembling the whole Z axis the following changes were done: - Making some space for the brass nut of the Z screw to enable it to move. - Checking the stepper placement and the rods and the whole table for some problems and reassembled everything properly. - Additionally we rebuilt the heated bed to make the layers (heat insulation, heater PCB, glass plate) fit tight together, to prevent movement from there. And finally we decided to update the firmware as it´s almost a year old now and meanwhile checked the maximum acceleration of the Z axis which is now set to 200 mm/sec^2 The funny thing is, it did not change anything in the printing results, the random wobble is still there and did not even changed. (Well that on the other side means that our Z axis was pretty well built and in order ) Afterwards, in desperation I played around with cura settings and tried to change flow rate and following the advise of gr5 tried different layer heights. It´s rather strange but the random wobble effect seems to disappear at a layer height of 0.24, as seen on the attached picture. (Layer height of 2.4 vs. 0.1) It´s to late for me now to play around more with the settings, but I wonder if it something like perimeter that are to close together and build up to a specific height where they kind of collapse and produce these kind of effects on thin layers. I would pretty much like to print in thin layers without the effect and will probably have to find the right settings in Flow, Wall Thickness + Layer Height. Does that make sense to you?
  7. I once had the same issue. For me the fast fix was to change wall thickness in Cura to either a higher (3 Perimeter) or lower (2 Perimeter closer together) value.
  8. Dear Makers! Thanks a lot for the good input and the new ideas. Today I got a bit of freetime and will dismount and reassemble the Z axis and see if any improvement can be reached. I´ll keep you up to date, and try to track down the problem and the possible solution.
  9. Well, you can wiggle it by force, but my feeling is that the adjustment screws put enough tension on the springs. I had this doubt as well, especially as the heated bed introduces a bit more unstability. But I clamped and taped it firmly to the platform. I´m almost sure that this is not the reason, as I was printing in the same setup without the issue.
  10. Hi, it´s bothering me for a long time now and I have tried everything I could think about before giving the question to the forum: The vertical surface finish of the Ultimakers prints suffer since several month from a slight random wobble (see pictures) This is making me mad as I know the machine can print way nicer. I just don´t know whats the problem. It´s not that the whole layers are shifted to the side, but they seem to be slightly thicker around the whole object. During the last weeks I checked the following possible causes of this issue without any improvement: Z Wobble - seems to be pretty straight and not moving at all Bad filament - even filament that printed nice earlier is now printing bad Loose structure - fasted every screw and checked every belt Temperature - seems in a sane range over the whole print Heatbed - switched it off during testprint, same random wobble results Loose filament feed - it´s so damn tight and strong, can´t be the reason Cura settings - tried a clean new install, nothing changed Bad computer - I´m a bit at the end of ideas and would be happy about any input, I guess I´m just missing something pretty simple. Thanks a lot for your help in advance!
  11. Did you found any solution for the problem? I´m facing the same issue on a lot of prints and would be happy to get rid of it.
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