hreedijk
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Posts posted by hreedijk
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That's right, I've send a PM bot got no response.
If anyone want the wheel, just send me a PM.
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hello there !!
posting from france and happy to find your topic
i am interested to get some wheels from an explorer 980
could you do something for me ?
an email adress of the person who made your wheel
thanks a lot
regard's
jim64
That was me that did the drawing and printing, I'll send you a message......
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No, they indeed won't leave it like that .......
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If you need a high toughness and impact strength comparable with ABS, XT is still a bit better.
But as you can see in the comparison chart (http://ngen.colorfabb.com/why/), it has the best properties of other materials in one filament.
It prints great, and for you @Arjan, it has indeed a better layer adhesion then XT.
Below a picture of nGen transparent, layer height .25mm, 0.5 nozzle, single wall, 230C, 50mm/s, 50% fan:
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Gent's, that stuff that will be announced tomorrow is really great stuff to print and has a great finish !
It has great combined specs that isn't available currently in any other filament (as far as I know).
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Thank you Drayson for sharing your hard work, I'm going to give this a try within a couple of weeks !
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I'm looking forward it !
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Maybe it´s my personal attitude, but for this risky stuff I would use a trusted source...
With this kind of equipment I couldn't agree more !
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If the slack is on both the upper and lower part, get some of these:
Set the X and Y axis in the middle of the printer, loosen 1 pulley, add the spring above the slide block, tighten the pulley again.
Be sure that the most flat side is at the slide block, otherwise the belt can touch the axis.
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I pull colored XT at 90 to 100 degrees.
For cleaning the nozzle I use Nylon.
I've never heard of doing that. Do you use the Taulman Nylon?
To date I've only encountered one nozzle clog on my UMO and it was the Ultimaker Blue PLA and a problematic Bowden tube coupler. I robbed my dual extruder kit of the extra coupler, Bowden tube and nozzle. The printer has worked well since. I'm not sure what to do with the old nozzle. Someone mentioned holding it over a heat source and melt out the large chunk of PLA stuck inside.
I'm fascinated by these multiple Atomic Pull remedies.
Yep, Taulman Nylon, works like a charm
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I pull colored XT at 90 to 100 degrees.
For cleaning the nozzle I use Nylon.
At what temperature are you pulling nylon at ?
I warm the nozzle up to 220 degrees, push it until it comes out the nozzle, set the printer to cool down, turn the Nylon a couple of times around and let it cool to 90 degrees, then pull it out.
Normally within 3 or 4 times the nozzle and heat chamber are clean.
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I pull colored XT at 90 to 100 degrees.
For cleaning the nozzle I use Nylon.
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Wat vraag je voor de printer, hoe oud is deze, hoeveel print uur staat er reeds op, foto's wellicht?
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Hello 0235,
The title of this post might be wrong, I read that ColorFabb is printing fine, the transparent of Ultimaker not.
"since switching back to some lovely colorfabb leaf green, its printing fine"
Since extruding with the ulticontroller is going fine thit seems there is no problem with your knurled bolt, spring tension on that bolt, bowden tube or nozzle.
As you say it yourself, just turn the threaded rod at the clamp a little down when the print starts.
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I'm having issues with Colorfabb PLA/PHA too. What do you guys think?
check the link below please:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16428-printing-issue-under-extrusion
You might want to clean the nozzle, I have the same issue when I change from XT (or regular PET) to PLA, not perticular to ColorFabb PLA/PHA.
After using the atomic method for cleaning the nozzle the issue is solved for me.
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I'm also a forum user that's 'lost' in this new layout.
In the old forum I was checking in 2 to 4 times a day and helped other users where I could, now I login once within 2/3 weeks.
If the old stuff is coming back, I'm in!
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3D lac geeft tevens een spiegelend resultaat.
Werk zelf tevens veel met kapton tape op een spiegel.
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3D lac werkt ook super.....
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News...
yesterday I printed/cut a few stencils out of 160g/m² paper for painting a wooden box.
Results: see pictures :-)
What I learned:
the stencil took 8 min to cut
after this, the alu profile were the laser module is mounted in where really hot so I assume too less cooling.
have to find another solution for it - maybe more than only one fan (water cooling would work but is from my point of view not applicable...)
drool......:-)
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Still struggling with this new forum, I want the old one back !
Finally found this post back again, good work Drayson, you still got my interest!
Regards,
Harold
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Da's niet normaal, zou met support contact opnemen voor een nieuwe riem.......
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Perhaps a WiFi exension in combination with an app for your phone/tablet....
Lasercut module would also be very nice.....
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Klopt helemaal.
1. Cura : 50mm/s, op de Ulticontroller : 100%
2. Cura : 70mm/s, op de Ulticontroller : 100%
De 100% op de Ulticontroller is dus de snelheidswaarde die je ingesteld in hebt in Cura.
Als je dus bij optie 1 de Ulticontroller op 150% zet print je dus met een snelheid van 75mm/s.
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I also really like the light blue color although I'm buying from ColorFabb, it's almost the same color:
colorfabb HT
in Materials & profiles
Posted
For HT you should use a bed temp of minimal 110C as advised by ColorFabb.
Also, to prevent warping, don't just print on plain glass but use a BuildTak plate for more adhesion or 3D Lac like I do myself .
Perhaps a glue stick will also help but I didn't tested that, perhaps the glue will melt or burn at those temperatures.
Also , if you can print without cooling, do so, especially for the first layers.