hreedijk

Real nice explenation !!!!

Heb er ook nog een stel, 5 van 2.2kg, een stuk of 14 van 750 gram. Probeer ze te slijten aan een basisschool voor surprises :-P

Gelukkig werkt ie weer, printse !

Hallo Herman, De 'nieuwe' heater connector is zeker niet voor de Heated Bed, de onderste groene (waar je nu het relais op heb zitten) is de juiste. Wat ik zie is dat je de thermostaat van de HB in de juiste connector heb zitten (R4), heb je wellicht een ander type hotend vanwege dat je deze in de R21 connector heb zitten i.p.v. de R32?

Foto is erg klein, kan er niets op zien :-0

And also, do you use the cooling fan, if possible, switch it off.

Hallo Herman, Een foto zou idd erg handig zijn, kun je die wellicht ergens anders op het net plaatsen en dan de link doorgeven?

I also found this a while ago, but it's expensive to my opinion.... http://jtechphotonics.com/?page_id=1336

I'll appreciate that !

Select all files, and type after the file name .hex..........

Indeed Didier. I've cleaned my nozzle about 14 times during the tests, not my favorite thing to do........

You can print with CopperFill with an UMO and UM2. The point is that the copper particles are transferring the heat of the nozzle upward the filament just like BronzeFill, only faster. When you print too slow (beneath 50mm/s) the heat will crawl faster upwards then the filament throughput, when the filament gets warm at the height of the teflon isolator it will stick to it resulting in a clog. To prevent the speed will go beneath 50mm/s, disable the 'minimum layer time (sec)' in Cura by setting the value at 1.

Unpolished the filament looks indeed different then the official photo, in real it's a bit darker..... Nice print by the way.

Right click on the hex file and save as.....

I print a lot with XT, always use kapton tape with a HB temp at 58 degrees.

I'm very interested in the laser hack, especially for my own build aluminium extrusion printer with UM electronics. Unfortunately I'm not that good with GCode (electronics also :-( ), otherwise I'm glad to help if I can.

I wish I could draw like that Wallan, awesome sculpture !

It is indeed great material, a little tricky to print with, but if you follow the guidelines of ColorFabb it will come out just fine.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7524-colorfabb-copperfill/&do=findComment&comment=70888

Mooi dat je nu weer 2 werkende printers heb, printse !

255°C (or 260°C) shouldn't be that much too hot. I've never had any trouble with XT overheating or so... I agree, but when the filament bubbles out of the nozzle it is for sure too hot.

Ilsaarin, you say it bubbles which means the nozzle is too hot. Lower the temp of the nozzle, I'm able to print with the new XT at 234 degrees as 50mm/s speed on my UMO. The old XT even at 212 degrees! As a test, heat up the nozzle at 220 and raise heat up slowly every 30 seconds by 2 or 4 degrees at a time, until the XT comes nicely out of the nozzle. Then print a simple object (single wall cylinder as example) to test out the best temperature for the material for your nozzle. You don't have to stick to the advised temps, I never do.

Another thing learned today... And indeed, they might consider a higher temp XT.......

Yep, it's real, I also wanted to know if it's true, that's why I tested it. To my knowledge ABS has also a GT of 75 degrees or am I mistaken?

GT = 75 degrees, tested it with hot, temp measured, water. I've managed to achieve a bridge of 14cm with a UMO, it could be larger if you take the time for it to tweak settings. And about the material itself, it is indeed PET, specs can be found here: http://www.eastman.com/Products/Pages/ProductHome.aspx?Product=71100831&list=Polymers Technical datasheet: http://ws.eastman.com/ProductCatalogApps/PageControllers/ProdDatasheet_PC.aspx?Product=71100831&sCategoryName=Generic