perlguy

I also had to install the avr tools. I've made the changes to the Makefile, but I get the following when I try to run make 3Ds-Mac-mini:Marlin 3dprinting$ make CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring.c CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring_analog.c CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring_digital.c CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring_pulse.c CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring_shift.c CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/WInterrupts.c In file included from /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/util/delay.h:44:0, from /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/avr/delay.h:37, from /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring_private.h:30, from /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/WInterrupts.c:34: /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/math.h:426:15: error: expected identifier or '(' before 'double' /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/math.h:426:15: error: expected ')' before '>=' token make: *** [applet/WInterrupts.o] Error 1 3Ds-Mac-mini:Marlin 3dprinting$ sudo make CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/WInterrupts.c In file included from /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/util/delay.h:44:0, from /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/avr/delay.h:37, from /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring_private.h:30, from /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/WInterrupts.c:34: /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/math.h:426:15: error: expected identifier or '(' before 'double' /usr/local/CrossPack-AVR-20130212/lib/gcc/avr/4.6.2/../../../../avr/include/math.h:426:15: error: expected ')' before '>=' token make: *** [applet/WInterrupts.o] Error 1 I'll keep poking around but it isn't looking promising.

illuminarti, Thanks. One step that you will want to include is either a how-to or a link to instructions for installing the command-line tools. One of the boxes that I am working on doesn't yet have them installed. I look forward to seeing the tutorial!

Thanks! Also, I am on github and have downloaded the latest Marlin firmware. However, in the Marlin directory there is no Marlin.pde file! I am on a Mac, I've tried running "make", but it just throws an error. As far as I remember, the Marlin.pde file used to be in the directory. Any ideas about how I can get it back? Thanks!

Here are a couple Ultimaker photos that I took while visiting the XYZ Expo last week in Amsterdam...

I will check my firmware and also try to tweak my retraction speed. I really appreciate the tips! There are so many things that can happen. Along those lines, does anyone know of a wiki site or something where we could post photos and slicer settings - and then have some sort of troubleshooting information on how to fix each type of printing problem that people are facing? That could be a very helpful thing! Thanks again!

I'm having issues again with printing some items. I am trying to print this item: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:59580 The solid base seems to print just fine, but when the printer gets to the smaller vertical parts, they print very weak and/or very stringy. I am including 2 photos of my prints. I've tried resetting the Cura settings back to the defaults. I've also tried with infill of 50% and even 100%. The photos show the result of trying to use the latest version of Slic3r. My Slic3r settings were: PRINT SETTINGS --- Layers & Perimeters --- Layer Height: Layer height: 0.2mm First layer height: 100% Vertical Shells: Perimeters (minimum): 3 Randomize starting points: TRUE Generate extra perimeters when needed: TRUE Horizontal Shells: Solid layers: Top: 3 Bottom: 3 Advanced: Avoid crossing perimeters: FALSE External perimeters first: FALSE --- Infill --- Infill: Fill density: .5 Fill Pattern: rectilinear Top/Bottom Fill Pattern: rectiliniar Advanced: Infill every: 1 layers Only infill where needed: FALSE Solid infill every: 0 layers Fill angle: 45 Solid infill threshold area: 70 Only retract when crossing perimeters: FALSE Infill before perimeters: FALSE --- Speed --- Speed for print moves Perimeters: 60 mm/s Small perimeters: 60 mm/s External perimeters: 100% Infill: 60 mm/s Solid infill: 60 mm/s Top solid infill: 60 mm/s Support material: 60 mm/s Bridges: 60 mm/s Gap fill: 20 mm/s Speed for non-print moves Travel: 130 mm/s Modifiers First layer speed: 50% Acceleration control (advanced) Perimeters: 0 Infill: 0 Bridge: 0 Default: 0 --- Skirt and Brim --- Skirt Loops: 1 Distance from object: 6mm Skirt height: 1 (layers) Minimum extrusion length: 0 Brim Brim width: 6mm --- Support Material --- Support Material Generate support material: FALSE Overhang threshold: 45 Enforce support for the first: 0 (layers) Raft Raft layers: 0 Options for support material and raft Pattern: rectilinear Pattern spacing: 2.5 Pattern angle: 0 Interface layers: 0 Interface pattern spacing: 0 --- Notes --- N/A --- Output Options --- N/A --- Multiple Extruders --- Extruders Perimeter extruder: 1 Infill extruder: 1 Support material extruder: 1 --- Advanced --- Extrusion Width Default extrusion width: 0 First layer: 200% Perimeters: 0 Infill: 0 Solid infill: 0 Top solid infill: 0 Support material: 0 Flow Bridge flow ratio: 1 Other Threads: 4 Resolution: 0 *** Filament Settings *** --- Filament --- Filament Diameter: 2.86 Extrusion Multiplier: 1 Temperature Extruder: 230 Bed: 100 --- Cooling --- Enable Enable Cooling: FALSE Fan settings Fan speed: Min: 35 Max: 110 Bridges fan speed: 100 Disable fan for the first: 1 (layers) Keep fan always on: FALSE Cooling thresholds Enable fan if layer print time is below: 60 Slow down if layer print time is below: 15 Min print speed: 10 mm/s *** Printer Settings *** --- General --- Size and coordinates Bed size: x: 225 y: 225 Print center: x: 112.5 y: 112.5 Z offset: 0 Firmware: G-code flavor: RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) Use relative E distances: FALSE Capabilities Extruders: 1 Advanced Vibration limit: 0 --- Custom G-code --- Start G-Code: G28; home all axes End G-Code: M104 S0; turn off temperature G28 X0; Home X axis M84; Disable motors Layer change G-code: Tool change G-code: --- Extruder 1 --- Size Nozzle diameter: 0.4 Position Extruder offset: x: 0 y: 0 Retraction Length: 4.5 Lift Z: 0 Speed: 40 Extra length on start: 0 Minimum travel after retraction: 5 Retract on layer change: TRUE Retraction when tool is disabled Length: 10 Extra length on restart: 0 Wow, I think that is all of the setting, I am going to save that as a template for the next time I need it! I will try to attach my photos now, thanks!

Thank you for all of the tips! I think tip #1 for me is: "Be Patient". I tend to want to try and print things out as fast as possible, and end up with poor results. Although, all of the other tips are great too. Thanks!

Using Cura right now... After I posted, I noticed that it was around the hole layers as well. Here are the settings I used... Quality Layer Height: 0.2 Wall Thickness: .8 Enable Retraction: Yes Fill Bottom/Top thickness: .8 Fill Density (%): 80 Speed & Temp Speed: 100 Temp: 220 Filament Diameter: 2.89 Density: 1 Retraction Minimum Travel: 4.0 Speed: 40.0 Distance: 4.5 Extra Length on Start: 0.0

My Ultimaker is acting a bit strange now during prints. Note: I've added a heated glass bed to my printer, but that should not affect the prints like I am now seeing. I am printing a simple structure using PLA and not heating the bed during this print. As you can see from the photo, the bottom 1cm of the print looks nice and solid (but it is curling on the edges). The layers above around the 1cm mark though have many small holes visible in them. I am printing right now with 80% fill density. Why am I getting inconsistent outer walls? Bonus question, is the PLA curling because of the glass? It even curls if I print it on raft (like I am in the photo). Thanks!

Any tips on printing with ABS, Nylon, or Polycarbonate so that it will adhere to the bed and actually finish a print? I also have a Solidoodle printer that prints mostly with ABS. On it, just using the heated bed seems to do 98% of the trick. Hairspray or some other adhesive will then usually hold the print onto the bed. With my Ultimaker, however, I can't seem to get anything but PLA to actually print without massive warping. I have a heated bed now, but so far, I have not been able to successfully print with anything but PLA. Tips, suggestions, ideas? Thanks!

Awesome, thank you Owen!

Had a bad thermistor. Replaced it with a good one and all is well. Thanks!

I would actually strip the insulation from the wires that will be directly under the heating elements and use the kapton tape on them to act as the insulator. Either way should work fine, I would just do it so that you don't get the additional "smoking plastic smell" on top of the plastic that you are already melting. Best of luck with the heated bed! They are awesome!

That worked, thanks! And idea how to better control the temperature? It currently seems to be running about 10-15 degrees higher than the thermistor is reporting. Should I try changing the thermistor settings until I find one that is the closest? I really do appreciate all of the help being offered! Brent

Anybody else have any ideas on how to fix the rapid-relaying-relay problem? Personally, I find the comments about the "bed temperature control" a bit confusing. Should I be using PID or Bang-bang?

Awesome, thanks! What about the relay switching on-and-off rapidly? How can I stop that from happening? It happens only when the target temperature has been reached. Then, it seems to do the rapid switching to try and "maintain" the temperature.

I got me temperature working for my heated bed. It was a bad thermistor or connection to the thermistor. I replaced it and I now have the temperature. I am trying to now tune the temperature for the bed, and I am not sure if I am doing it properly - so I am hoping someone can help out! I used a spare thermistor that I had for our Solidoodle printer, I checked the Configuration.h settings on it and it was set as a #6 thermistor. I have the power connected via a relay so that I can power a QU-BD silicone heat pad using an old computer power supply. It all seems to be "working", however when I try to do the PID tune using this command: M303 E-1 C8 S60 It runs through about 4 of the cycles seemingly just fine. The next 4 cycles is repeatedly turns my relay on-and-off rapidly. Also, the results seem to be pretty different between PID tuning sessions. Here are the 3 PID tuning session results that I have so far: (Session 1 & 3 seem pretty close. Session 2 seems to be way off). bias: 148 d: 107 min: 59.48 max: 60.34 Ku: 319.14 Tu: 26.61 Clasic PID Kp: 191.48 Ki: 14.39 Kd: 636.87 PID Autotune finished ! Place the Kp, Ki and Kd constants in the configuration.h ok B:60.00 @:64 bias: 169 d: 86 min: 59.97 max: 60.17 Ku: 1077.39 Tu: 21.23 Clasic PID Kp: 646.44 Ki: 60.89 Kd: 1715.80 PID Autotune finished ! Place the Kp, Ki and Kd constants in the configuration.h ### ENABLED BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING bias: 174 d: 81 min: 59.66 max: 60.26 Ku: 343.07 Tu: 27.13 Clasic PID Kp: 205.84 Ki: 15.17 Kd: 698.11 PID Autotune finished ! Place the Kp, Ki and Kd constants in the configuration.h Am I even doing this properly? Also, when I am tuning at 60C - the actual temperature is about 75C (using a touchless thermometer). Thanks!

I've several items about the problem that I am having, but so far nothing has worked. My problem OpenSCAD file has been narrowed down to this: scale([1,1,1]) { import("/Volumes/Storage\ 2/3d/ipadminilandscape_fixed-1.stl"); } The file was downloaded from :http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33418 I've run the file through the Netfabb Cloud service, but that did not help. I am still getting "WARNING: No top level geometry to render" when I try to do the "Compile and Render (GCAL)" option in OpenSCAD. I am on a Mac using OpenSCAD 2013.03.06 and have also tried the older, released version. Any ideas how I can fix this? Thank you! Perlguy

I've installed one of the silicone heated beds from qu-bd.com (actually, not fully installed - testing right now). I can get the bed to start heating up by issuing a "M303 E1 C8 S90" command, but I am not getting any readings from the thermistor. I've installed the 4.7K-Ohm resistor onto R4 on the driver board. Which pins should i connect the 2 thermistor leads to? I've seen a picture that looks like you should attach them to the outer 2 connectors (SIG and GND). I've also seen a diagram showing the connection between 5V and GND. I've enabled the sensors in the Marlin firmware and uploaded it to my board. I just can't seem to get any data from the thermistor. Any ideas? Thanks!

The print that I am currently running is looking pretty "hairy". I printed the first 1/2 of this object yesterday and did not have this problem. What causes this extra stuff during the print, and how can I prevent it from happening on future prints? Please see attached photo. Thanks!

I have the Ultimaker controller upgrade. Once I've sliced a file, there is an option in Cura to "Copy to SDCard". Whenever I try to do that, it just pops up a message saying that it failed. I am running Cura on a Mac. The SD card IS formatted with 8.3, so that shouldn't be an issue. How do I get Cura (and my Mac) to see the SD card? Thanks!

I got it figured out! Sometimes the tab that activates the endstop just misses the endstop. I tightened up the carriage assembly and added a washer behind the endstop. yay!

I double-checked and all endstops are correct based upon re-running the first run wizard. It is the Y-Axis motor (the one in the back-left corner of the printer) that seems to want to keep going when the endstop is hit. I've verified that the endstop is being properly hit. Also, it does not do it every time, just about 1/2 of the time. Any ideas why my Y-Axis motor is a bit crazy? Thanks!

When I ran the "first time setup" in Cura, they all seemed to be in the proper position. I'll run it again to double-check.

Sometimes, not always, when my printer moves to the front-left corner, it seems like the motor(s) keep trying to move the print head beyond where they are supposed to. When I manually move the print head, I can hear that the end-stops are being properly engaged. Does anyone know how to fix this? It sounds awful! Thank you!