rbc1225
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Posts posted by rbc1225
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I purchased an original Ultimaker with dual extruders and an upgraded heat bed. I see a scrape mark on the inside back of the Ultimaker and it also makes some strange clicking sounds as the bed goes up and down the Z-axis. I looked at the installation pdf and on the back of the heat bed there is a metal tab with a hole in it and I believe this is scraping on the back of the Ultimaker making a scrape mark as well as the clicking sound. Or so I am assuming this is what is causing it. I can't see anything else.
Anyway my question or observation is, I would not think this tab should be scraping the back, should it? I assume I can just maybe sand a channel out for this to clear?
Thanks
RBC
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Did the upgrade fix it? I know when I had trouble with my Gen 6 connecting, once I upgraded to 13.03 I believe it was Cura connected just as well as the others. Before I upgraded I was having the same issues you are.
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Daid, you might have seen my request in another thread but if not I thought I might post it again. I think it would be nice to have a button to push in the event you need to change filament or running out. This button would stop the printing at the current location, save it, raise the head or move the head (determined by user given input) allow the user to swap out filament, feed the filament or jog it. Then when the button is pressed again, go back to the place where the printing was left off. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks for all your hard work
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Okay, maybe not the only comment but I can say it again. WOW. I have been trying to print out a couple of robot pieces for a couple of little boys of some friends of ours. I was using slic3r as it was the one everyone uses right? Well no more, the pieces I have been trying to print have some smaller bottoms than tops and some overhangs and for the life of me I could not get them to stick and stay put because of the small footprint. I tried the new version of slic3r with the raft and it was a joke. Anyway I had played around with Cura just a little before and never really got into it. I had used it to print out some flexi bracelets and that was about it. Soooo I said to myself. "Self why don't you try Cura for this tough print". Wow, it worked awesome. I set the raft on and away it went. Held perfectly and the print is awesome.
Daid for all the little quirks that still need to be worked out and minor bugs you are working on you have an awesome piece of software here. I just wanted to show my appreciation and say thanks. I will be using Cura for most if not all of my printing from now on.
Thanks again
Rusty
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I guess I am not one that expects people to protect me from myself. If I leave my hotend hot and it plugs I guess I would learn not to do that if I had to clean it out a couple of times.
Noted. I also noted that keyboard control is missing for layer scrolling now, which would be a nice addition.The print window remains a bit of an odd one, as it's actually run as a separate application, which makes bringing it on top a bit hard sometimes. The "cancel=cooldown" is done against plugs, as people where canceling and then leaving their head sitting hot, which, depending on your temperature and how well you have the teflon-tube connection, can cause a plug.
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It provides a way to override the steps-per-e setting in your firmware (the number of stepper steps required to pull 1mm of filament into your extruder). It gets output in the preamble of the gcode file as an M92 command, which should cause the printer (if it honors the command) to use that value for the print (and any subsequent prints until it is reset).
It's not used anywhere else in the calculations that inside Cura, afaik. The amount of extrusion in the gcode - the E values - are solely based on the layer height, nozzle/wall width, and the filament width (and the length of the segment being printed).
If you know the steps-per-e for your printer, then enter it in the preferences for Cura, and it won't change anything when you print. Also make sure that the filament diameter is set correctly for your filament.
Ahhhh Ok so it is an override, that is what I wanted to know. I think I got Cura figured out at least for now. Take a look at this and tell me what you think.
I don't know what I was doing stupid earlier. -
What is the "Steps Per E" used for in Cura? I assume normally on the Ultimaker the value in Merlin and Cura match but when I do that on my Prusa it seems as though it spits out more product than required. Just trying to get a handle on getting Cura up and running.
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I sent you my config files. My prints were best about 195C. This was also without a fan so I am in the process of mounting a fan to the head and most likely will help a bit from what I have heard. I took the time to figure out how the new gallery works so here is the pic I was trying to show earlier.
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If you are just talking about calibrating steps-per-e, no you don't want the nozzle attached... unless a) it's hot, and B) you're moving the filament at a very slow speed - the extruder isn't going to handle having 100mm of filament shoved at it all in one go. Best case, you'll get a lot of slipping, and the measurement will be way off. Worst case you'll break things.
The steps-per-e measurement is solely about how the extruder moves filament.... nothing to do with the interaction with the nozzle.
Cool good to know, but yeah I thought people would know the nozzle had to be hot and yes your not going to force it through at 350mm per min either. I did mine with the nozzle hot and at a slow rate. But here is my first try at PLA using the same settings I use for ABS just temp down a bit to 220. To me it looks like it printed a little hot as one of the pieces looks melted on the hinge portion of the print. Turning it down to 210 and see what happens. We I don't see how to attach pics from my machine only a URL so I will send them to you email David.
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Sounds great, thanks a lot! I'll also try bumping the nozzle settings up to 220 and see what happens, but when I calibrated the extruder motor, the nozzle wasn't attached.
The nozzle needs to be attached as a whole unit to get an accurate measurement of how much filament will be going through it while it is attached and at the temp you plan to start printing at, or so that is how I understand it.
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Okay tell ya what. I have all but abandoned printing PLA, mainly because I don't like the way it looks for my uses but I will see if I can get my machine dialed in using slic3r and PLA and send you config file. I have not done a lot with Cura yet, Otherwise I would send you those config files but at least this will get you a way to start printing something decent and you can work from there. It might take me a few days (and maybe not) as I have not printed enough PLA to get mine dialed in for it. If it turns out to be the same settings I use for ABS just at a lower temp then it won't take too long. Keep in mind mine are not perfect either as I just started this hobby a month or so ago but I have been told I have made very good progress in getting this Prusa to put out quality prints. Send me your email in a PM and we can go from there. How does that sound?
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Yeah if I cancel a print the head turns off as well. Also if I cancel a print, make changes, then re-slice and hit print again, I have to go searching for the print window. It is hidden back behind the settings window. I would think once I hit the print button again it should bring it to the top of the stack. Am I incorrect in my thinking here?
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Did you go through that calibration document I gave you the link to? It has different pictures for different problems and their fixes. I would bet that will answer a lot of your questions. It goes into temp considerations, speed considerations and slicer setting and such. I would take a few days if I were you and go throuh and make sure your machine is calibrated properly. If you do that you are sure to not only understand your machine much better but also have fewer questions.
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Yeah I agree with Joergen especially since you have not had any decent prints any other time. It certainly sounds to me like you skipped the step of calibrating the machine. Take for instance on my setup. The steps are 375 due to the electronics I have. I would expect yours to be closer to 750 to 800 range since you are using ramps and can go down to a finer step than I can. Here is a link that should help quite a bit. http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
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Can you get decent prints out of Slic3r and Pronterface? If so I would mimic those settings and see how it comes out.
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Okay man looks good. I didn't install the Arduino as I didn't want to screw up a driver I knew already worked but you changing that delay time did the trick as far as connecting manually, so at least I can use Cura now on my old POS Gen 6 now where I could not before. Thanks again for all your hard work.
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Nope the autodetect didn't work before but you indicated you were going to change the connect time from 5 seconds to 10 so it might actually connect manually. I will try it when I get home and report back.
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Daid:
One question before I install the new version of Cura on the machine I am using with my Gen 6 electronics. Since Cura gives you the option to install the Arduino software I assume I should skip this since it seems like the Gen6 is a little strange in the fact it still uses the old version of the software. Would you agree or is the verson that is installed as a part of Cura compatable with the Gen 6?
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I can't wait. I hope I can at least get it to connect to my printer (Gen6 electronics) If not I will go ahead and change out to my Ramps, I just had other things to do than that right now.
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I don't mean to be a total jerk here but if you can't get past an EPS format and put it in the format you require, you are going to have a tough time building the Ultimaker.
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Awesome Daid. I appreciate it.
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Daid, any possibility of adding the longer delay time for connection to a non Ultimaker electronics a user settable item? Curious as to when you might have the next version of Cura available? I think I can work around the problem I was having but Cura looks like an awesome interface and I would much rather use it.
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Okay thanks, yeah the only downside is maybe the looks and knocking the motors around if I move it, neither of which I care about. With that said, I think I will proceed with the original build then make the mods once I am comfortable with how the printer is supposed to work. The rods for the 8mm axis aren't that expensive for me so nothing really lost there. I would like to see your pics though Cora. I like the idea of mounting on the back.
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If I was building an Ultimaker from scratch, I'd modify the laser-cut wood templates I'd probably move the slots for mounting the extruder motor to the left side and leave some extra material for mounting the motor stand-offs.
I already have the laser cut parts. I am using laser cut parts from a place here in the states but just curious if I should make this mod or is it going to cause a new person any headaches by doing so? I can't see a down side to doing it myself that is why I am asking.
Headed bed scraping on backplate
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Sorry if my description above was a little confusing. Here is what I have.