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burki

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  1. Thank you! I had checked the website of the reseller i got it from, but not of the maufacturer... Oh well. it was not my best day anyway... Thank you for your quick reply!
  2. Hi, i have had some massive problems with my UMO lately, and at last it seemed the main extruder stepper motor had failed me (things printed fine when i re-wired the second extruder and heater and stuff) So, after some grumbling, i bought a BondTech QR. I just hooked it up, but unfortunately, it does not extrude. It retracts instead (that means: there is one side with a bowden fixture. I was hoping the filament was extruded in that direction. But it came out on the other end. Nice and slow, but in the wrong direction.) Can anybody help me solve this issue? And by the way: The bondtech wants different e-steps than my second extruder (which is an ultimaker Original dual extrusion kit part) Is there any way to use both of them? This latter part is not very important, it would simply help passing the time until the second bondtech arrives) Thanks in advance!
  3. burki

    Heated Bed Upgrade: small suggestion

    Um. Between 2 and 3 hours maybe? Not longer at least. I was having some difficulties getting the guidng rods out of the frame, so that part may have slowed me down. And i was not in a hurry :-)
  4. Hello Ultimaker Team, i received my heated bed kit and just stopped drooling enough to consider it safe to assemble the whole thing. The documentation is flawless, and by the way: the packaging is really nice! One small suggestion though: One of the three countersunk m3X20 srews in my pack was damaged (the thread was somehow bent), so i would like to suggest that maybe for future packs you could add a fourth of those? All other screws are easily replaceable (although i didn't have to), but i could not find a countersunk one in my collection. Other than that: very nice work! thank you! Looking forward to put it to the test!
  5. burki

    Irgendwie will es bei mir nicht klappen!

    Der erste Teil wurde von Nightwish korrekt beschrieben (auch wenn ich ein Raft eine etwas drastische Lösung finde): Deine übrigen Probleme kommen vor allem von Temperatur- Geschwindigkeits - und Retraktionseinstellungen, die nicht gut zu Material und Form passen. Der Troubleshooting Guide wird Dir heir weiter helfen, und Du wirst sicher ein wenig experimentieren müssen. Ein Hinweis noch: Selbst beim gleichen Hersteller druckt sich jede Farbe mit etwas anderen idealen Einstellungen.
  6. burki

    Heated bed for the Ultimaker 1

    So... i ordered my kit last week... any of you folks have a hint about delivery times?
  7. burki

    Heated bed for the Ultimaker 1

    Not much point in guessing, i assume. We will see when it's there.
  8. burki

    Heated bed for the Ultimaker 1

    Please be careful not to slip on the wet floor. i've been drooling all over the place for so long ;-) In september i will have finished moving to the new place. Would be lovely to use the then-available time to upgrade th ultimaker :-)
  9. burki

    Ultimaker 1(Original) Z plate not level

    Right, i had not taken into consideration that you are still assembling. Sorry for that. As soon as you have mounted your print head you can easily see if, using the levelling screws, you can or cannot adjust the build plate so that you get equal distances from the bed to the nozzle throughout the area. If your build plate is not flat (i.e. bent, corrugated, twisted), you do in fact have a problem, but i guess you did not mean that? Perfectionist is good, stick with that! And much fun with your printer!
  10. burki

    3D-Printer Advice

    Thinking that over: maybe you could find a FabLab or an ultimaker owner somewhere near you, so you can discuss your models and requirements, and maybe ask them for a print. Most people here on this forum are normally friendly enough so you might stand a good chance :-)
  11. burki

    3D-Printer Advice

    One hint about the resolution / detail thingy: if i remember correctly, both UM2 and Replicator print with a .4mm nozzle. That means, the string of plastic that is laid down is (more or less) 0.4 mm wide. As a result, if you think of a flat square, the printed result will not have sharp edges but a minimum edge radius of .2mm. So, in x-y-direction, the nozzle diameter is the limiting factor. While you could exchange the nozzle (maybe consider an Ultimaker Original for that?) for something smaller, this would result in much longer print times. If i am not mistaken, half the nozzle diameter should result in twice the layer time? But then again, you may want to ask yourself if you really need such extreme detail, especially for a board game where the objects are handled, stored in a box and such, so too fine a detail might wear off over time anyway. If your conclusion is that you need the detail, i think you might want to look for a laser sinter printer rather than a fused filament printer.
  12. burki

    Ultimaker 1(Original) Z plate not level

    Your build plate should not be level (as compared to ocean level) but parallel to the axes your print head travels along. So: If you print constant thicknesses throughout the print area, your leveling is as it should be, no matter at what angle it rests compared to sea level.
  13. I strongly doubt that anybody who has dual extrusion would give it up. But frankly, it's not exactly expensive!
  14. burki

    Trouble printing PLA on heated bed

    One more hint: don't use glass cleaner or alcohol. Clean your glass plate with a dish washing detergent. And of course avoid finger prints.
  15. About the space frame: yes, a filled construction should be at least as rigid (for the size of parts and forces we are talking here. For larger structures the weight of the structure would have to be taken into consideration, so that for a large construction the space frame would be better, but for our topic here that is irrelevant) About the crossed tongues: yes, one vertical and one horizontal could be twisted. But as soon as you have, say, 2 horizontal one vertical, you should be fine. I am not even sure if any of that is really needed or if you current structure would be rigid enough already, given the fact that you havepanels in all 3 directions ? But you might want to ask someone else about that. I'm really looking forward to get a peek at that baby once the first prototype is tehre!
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