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albert

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Everything posted by albert

  1. Hi Daid, thank you for the fast reply! The "hack" did not work for me, either I get another error box or the program hangs on the splash screen. But I'm glad the question is on your radar and I have no problem with waiting until you find a solution to it. I think its simply great that one can talk to you guys. albert
  2. Just an idea- perhaps the first run wizard could include a check for available display modes. "Do you see this spinning cube?" If the users machine is up to date all the latest bells and whistles will be used, if not, a basic version of the window will be displayed, enough to be able to use the new slicer. All your work on the new slicing engine should not be torpedoed by the display drivers..... Albert
  3. Hello Daid, I am sure I am not the only one who has issues with the new CURA concerning the display. I have tried the last beta and the new Cura 13.06 on my Vista laptop and my 2009 Win XP PC. On both machines the older versions run perfectly well. Unfortunately I get an error message as soon as the main windows open. It seems to be related to OpenGL or other display drivers. Could you please restore compatibility of the new CURA with older machines or at least make it possible to turn off advanced display modes so that we can use the new software? I'm sure many people don't have the money to buy an up to date computer every two years or so. And a lot of us use older secondary machines to control the ultimaker if they do not have the luxury of an ulticontroller. I have tried to update the graphics drivers on both machines but this creates all sorts of issues with other software. So I am caught between the devil and the deep blue sea. One of my reasons for getting the Ultimaker in the first place was that I was able to run the software without being forced to buy a new computer as well. When doing research for a 3d printer last year I tried to install "makerware" on 4 different machines from the two older ones I mentioned before to a brand new 64 bit PC and it would not run on any of those. So the makerbot fell thru because of this. I hope we will not be excluded from the new software because our computers are not the latest models. Cura 3.04 is running well but sometimes the slicing times are almost as long as the time it takes to print an object. Thank you- CURA is great work nonetheless. Albert
  4. Merci pour les détails concernant la peinture. J'ai aussi essayé de faire la premiere couche avec une peinture en bombe et puis avec des couleurs acryliques mais ce système est très susceptible aux rayures. Je n'ai pas encore trouvé une méthode pour proteger l'objet quand il est utilisé dans mon contexte- la marionnette. Si tu veux regarde ma galerie de photos "Puppetry and Ultimaker". J'ai collé pas mal d'objets parce que j'utilise deux imprimantes et je peux donc imprimer les deux parties s'un grand objet en meme temps. Avec un peu de poncage ca march pas mal. J'attends avec impatience ta pièce terminée! albert
  5. super, c'est une excellente idée. Je pense que ça devrait marcher aussi quand on re demarre à zéro de hauteur pour la deuxième partie pour coller les deux pièces après. A quoi va ressembler la figure complète? tu as fait la sculpture toi-même? Tu comptes la peindre après impression? et avec quoi? La peinture c'est mon problème au moment. Albert
  6. Bonjour Olivier, après pas mal d'essais je suis tombé sur RHINO 5. Un modelleur NURBS qui donne des résultats excellents quand on exporte les objets en STL. L'avantage c'est les fonctions boole et les arrondis parfaits. On a le meilleur du monde NURBS pour créer les formes "organiques" et la précision pour la construction. Il y a une version d'essai où la seule limitation est le nombre de mises en memoire. (25).Cela suffit largement pour les premiers tests. Et ça marche sur des machines plus anciennes aussi. J'ai passé un weekend de vacances sous la flotte pour apprendre ....si tu viens de Autocad ç'est familier avec une ligne de commandes.. Bonne chance! Albert
  7. Too many polygons dont improve the print quality usually. So I would recommend to use a decimation tool like z brush decimation master to bring down the polygon numbers to an acceptable level. I have decimated models from 300k to 50k without noticeable difference in print quality. Mesh.ab also seems to have a decent decimation tool.
  8. From the video one can see that it uses the same xy gantry and drive system as the UM...with clothespin belt tensioners!
  9. Wenn du den Ulticontroller aufmachst, ist auf der Rückseite in der Nähe des Piezosummers ein winziges SMD Potentiometer. Versuch mal es leicht zu bewegen. Das regelt normal die Helligkeit der Hintergrundbeleuchtung soviel ich weiss. Wenns ein Wackler ist, funktionierts dann vielleicht....ansonsten einschicken und umtauschen lassen.
  10. Thank you for the quick answer! With me it was a one wire disconnect ....before going into the amplifier circuit on the printhead. IF this was the cause. I can only speculate on that. Is the current going into the heater monitored? That might be another way to sound the alarm if something is in the woods. The difficulty with these traps is setting them up in such a way that they dont trip on a false alarm and ruin a print.... I' m glad the Ultimaker would not go up in flames - if that was tested it somehow dampens my worries a bit. The smoke screen was quite impressive though. I can only imagine what it would be like once it starts to burn thru the perspex... Probably the only real remedy for failures like that would be a second temperature sensor in the aluminum block with a separate circuit and wires going to the mainboard. But that might be too expensive and complicated. Please keep up the good work, I really appreciate the efforts to make the ultimaker a better machine.
  11. Thank you very much! I had a scare this afternoon when my hotend went into thermal runaway after a firmware update. Turned out the update had nothing to do with it but it got me thinking....
  12. Hi Illuminarti, I would like to know how I can "downdate" to coin a word - to an earlier version of the firmware. My machines awre now running with the firmware version that comes with CURA 13.03. I really like the progress as far as the display on the Ulticontroller is concerned- all of a sudden there are long file names, and more info on the display. But when I updated the machine I asked myself "what if for some reason the new firmware won't work?" I suddenly realized that I did not know the way back....Sometimes there might be bugs in newer versions of a firmware, and I am not well versed in the handling of the Arduino. I'm basically an artist who always had bad grades in math....
  13. I just had a near desaster....a few things to learn here and a few questions as well. I have recently bought a second Ultimaker from someone who had finished it but lacked the time to really run it and get it tweaked out. He has built it quite well with some minor issues I was able to iron out. The machine has the 1.5.6. board and came without an UltiController. I have ordered one and connected it to the machine yesterday. It did not work, only showed 2 blank lines - just like when you misconnect the cables. This was not the cause, after I had updated the firmware it worked like a charm. So I started a print about 2 hours ago. Several seconds into the second layer the hotend suddenly began to smoke, and PLA began to leak out of the threads in the PEEK and dripped onto the metal block. I turned everything off by pulling the plug and started to cool the hotend down with a loose fan I always have lying around. The temperature display on the Controller had not gone beyond 220 degrees but the hotend must have gone way beyond 300 degrees. The Pla oozed out in a liquid state for several minutes. I ran the z stage down manually and let the stuff run out. When I turned the machine back on a few minutes later the temperature showed 190 degrees. When I started to turn the heater back on after the hotend had cooled to 160 degrees the display started to flicker and showed "Heater failure". So I pulled the plug again. I thought thats it-I have damaged the heater and destroyed the peek.Then I checked the connections between the thermocouple and the small PCB on top of the print head. I re tightened the screws and also the ones connecting the heater on the mainboard.Nothing was loose but it might have been just not tight enough. Then I waited until the machine had cooled down to room temp and started it again. this time it worked and is still printing at the moment. LESSONS LEARNED: the hotend can withstand a lot of heat and "abuse" -at least for a short time. If I had not seen the smoke the machine would have gone up in flames within the next few minutes. It might have started a fire. This defeats the whole purpose of 3D printing- If I have to sit by while the machine works I cannot use it. I dont want to buy a rocking chair and learn to knit while I am baby sitting the machine. So this leads to the question: Is there a safety catch in the software that turns off everything if the thermocouple shows strange behavior or the heater current suddenly goes up in a steep ramp? If the thermocouple disconnects the heater goes haywire and everything could burn up. Perhaps a "safeguard" could be programmed in to prevent "thermal runaway"....?
  14. BLENDER has out its Release Candidate 2.67. It contains some check functions for 3d Printing. You can test a model for overhangs, and non manifold triangles and the like. I have not tried yet but I think these guys are amazing...
  15. check the thickness of the pla ...I have a "red" roll where the thickness goes down all the way to 2.74 mm. This could mean the extruder will not have enough force to move it.
  16. Well, much the same with me. I run a print, then if I want to run a second print, I get "Serial Timeout exception" and the machine cannot connect anymore. Unplugging the usb cable, turning off the printer, restarting CURA, nothing works except a total restart of the computer. Pronterface works all the time though....any ideas?
  17. I have looked into 3d printing several years ago. I' m a puppeteer and for me the 3d printing process is a great tool. The first thing i tried was the powder printer a la Zcorp. Plaster/binder process. This had to be farmed out and the price for a 17 cm puppet head was about 250€. While I liked the results I got, the models were too heavy and probably too fragile as well. So I kept looking for an alternative where one could do the entire process at home. I have a FabLab close to where I live and went there to look at the new generation of FDM printers. I saw the RepRap style machines with their threaded rods and moving print beds ...and just hated the design of them and the slow speeds and well...not very good print quality... It looked very amateurish, and I never had an interest in getting a printer only for the sake of tweaking it out. I wanted results! Then I saw the Ultimaker and it looked much better...a lightweight printhead, a print bed moving only in the vertical axis, and all of that at a good price. I interviewed the members of the FabLab crew and they had nothing but positive things to say about the machine. So I got one and have never looked back!
  18. Hallo und willkommen! Ich denke, die neueste Version der Anleitung ist gut und bis jetzt hab ich noch keine Fehler gefunden. Mein Tip : Kugellager sollten stramm in den Holzteilen sitzen, auch im Plastikteil des Extruders. Da man hier leicht zuviel Kraft aufwendet und die Gefahr der Beschädigung der Holzteile durchaus gegeben ist, rat ich, die Kugellager vor dem Einbauen in einen Tiefkühler oder ein Tiefkühlfach zu legen. Eine Stunde reicht. Dadurch ziehen sie sich ein wenig zusammen und man kann sie leichter und ohne Werkzeug in die Lagersitze pressen. Bei den Pulleys die auf die Motoren kommen habe ich für die kleine Madenschraube ein Schraubensicherungsmittel LOCTITE oder ähnliches, wiederlösbar, verwendet. Anfeilen der Motorachsen brauchts nicht wenn man die Schrauben gut anzieht. Was noch? Langsam arbeiten, keinen Geschwindigkeitsrekord aufstellen wollen und jeden Schritt nochmal überprüfen. Viel Spaß, wenn man mal angefangen hat, machts wirklich Freude das Ding zu bauen. Albert
  19. Would love to test this...qualified as "beginner"... I'd also like to say I find it awesome what has happened on the software side in the last months and years. Today I can model sculpt and design with free software, slice with free software and print with free soft-and firmware. Without all the thousands of man hours you coding wizards have put into these projects, machines like the ultimaker would only be pieces of wood and metal. And all of this can be used by guys like me who are basically artists without much in depth knowledge of the bits and bytes. Thank you for your work and for making these great tools available for us!
  20. i recently bought a second Ultimaker without an ulticontroller. The machine came assembled and with a few small mechanical problems. I am running it off a Windows XP system at the moment. On my first machine I never use the PC connection but print directly from the SD card. When I try to print from CURA the new machine is detected correctly and the status goes to "machine operational". When I hit the print button the status says "serial timeout exception". I then have to disconnect the usb, turn off the printer and restart the printing window. To get around this I am currently running the machine using cura generated gcodes and pronterface. No problem at all here. But I would really like to be able to control print speed and this does not work in pronterface. Can someone help? Albert
  21. I wonder if its not easier to make a full plate of pieces with the CAD program before you go to CURA. i have successfully made runs with up to 25 identical parts this way. There seems to be a limitation where CURA/Skeinforge cannot handle all the data, but generally this seems to work well. I only had a problem when one of the parts was not starting at exactly the same height as the others and came off during printing, ruining the batch. I have found it easy to put parts as close to each other as possible with this method. This avoids blobs and strings, or you can rotate parts to get a minimum of travel moves. Its a different ballgame if you need parts printed with different slicing profiles in one batch. Will this work with the project planner?
  22. I have filed flats onto shafts quite often on my RC model helicopters. I use a Dremel with a cutting disc at high speeds. And a small file for the fine work. On the Ultimaker I have used LocTite Blue on the set screws for the motor pulleys. This is the only place in the machine where I have done so since I do not want any hassles with grubscrews on the belt pulleys. Using LocTite can backfire on you if you want to disassemble the machine and cant get the screws to move. To check for slippage I draw a line across the axes and the pulleys with a felt tip pen. I also did this on the heads of the motor screws. This way you can quickly check if a screw has vibrated out of position and become loose. The xy pulleys used could be of better quality. They tend to deform when the screws are tightened. I would prefer a pulley without grub screws on the xy axes. There are pulleys with a clamp type system where the tightening screw is 90 degrees to the axis. The grub screws bite into the metal on the axes and I do not look forward to disassemble my machine if I ever have to change belts or things like that. To pull the steel shafts out thru the ball bearings when they are deformed can be a chore.
  23. I had the same problem and simply opened the fan by peeling off the label, and put a little bit of grease on the axis of the fan. Since then it runs quiet as it did in the beginning. Perhaps no need to switch to another fan at all.
  24. update zum weißen JET PLA : Das Zeug ist so glatt, daß es bei gleichzeitigem Bau mehrerer Objekte nicht richtig funktioniert. Ich habe 8 gleiche Teile auf dem Druckbett angeordnet, und bei mehreren Versuchen ist es nicht gelungen, alle 8 Teile dazu zu kriegen auf dem Druckbett zu bleiben. Die gleiche Datei mit dem silbernen PLA von Ultimaker lief einwandfrei durch. Habe alles probiert, TESA Band, Nopi, blaues Scotch, andere Betthöhe usw. Für einzelne in der Mitte liegende Objekte geht das weiße Zeug also gut, ansonsten ist es schwierig. Doch erstaunlich, wie verschieden die Eigenschaften des PLA sind. Wenn man diese Unterschiede kennt, kann man diese Unterschiede wahrscheinlich sogar positiv nutzen. Zu Deiner Frage, Goodwell- ich verwende CURA 13 und den Ulticontroller. Finde das getrennte Betreiben von Drucker und Rechner am praktischsten. So kann man im Nebenraum den Drucker laufen lassen und am Rechner weiterarbeiten. Eine Frage an Euch alle - ich hab noch nicht rausbekommen, wie man Fotos direkt hier in die Posts reinstellen kann? weiß da jemand Bescheid, ich such mich blöd....
  25. Also ich hab 31 Euro bezahlt für die Kilo-Rolle. Was das Zeug bei Grrf kostet, hab ich nicht im Kopf. Im Münchner FabLab printen sie meistens mit dem Zeug von Grrf und scheinen recht zufrieden damit. Wie schnell die bei GRRF eine Bestellung abarbeiten kann ich nicht sagen, bei Amazon gehts halt rasend schnell. Wie das mit dem hygroskopischen Effekt ist, kann ich ebenfalls nicht beantworten. Muß man sehen, wie das bei längerer Lagerung ist. Ich habe alle Reste wieder mit dem Silica - Päckchen zusammen in Folie eingeschlagen. Bei direkter Anwendung wies aus dem Paket kam habe ich keine Effekte feststellen können. die mit Wasser im PLA zu tun haben. Nur eine etwas geringere Haftung auf dem Druckbett, siehe oben. Andere Farben hab ich noch nicht getestet. Ich will mir "mein" PLA suchen und dann dabei bleiben. Bei mir wird sowieso entweder drüber gemalt oder die Sachen bleiben in der PLA Farbe. Schwarz, Grau und weiß sind alles was ich brauch. Siehe meine Bilder in der Galerie Album "Puppetry and Ultimaker"...
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