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Everything posted by albert

  1. Hi Daid, thank you for the fast reply! The "hack" did not work for me, either I get another error box or the program hangs on the splash screen. But I'm glad the question is on your radar and I have no problem with waiting until you find a solution to it. I think its simply great that one can talk to you guys. albert
  2. Just an idea- perhaps the first run wizard could include a check for available display modes. "Do you see this spinning cube?" If the users machine is up to date all the latest bells and whistles will be used, if not, a basic version of the window will be displayed, enough to be able to use the new slicer. All your work on the new slicing engine should not be torpedoed by the display drivers..... Albert
  3. Hello Daid, I am sure I am not the only one who has issues with the new CURA concerning the display. I have tried the last beta and the new Cura 13.06 on my Vista laptop and my 2009 Win XP PC. On both machines the older versions run perfectly well. Unfortunately I get an error message as soon as the main windows open. It seems to be related to OpenGL or other display drivers. Could you please restore compatibility of the new CURA with older machines or at least make it possible to turn off advanced display modes so that we can use the new software? I'm sure many people don't have the
  4. Merci pour les détails concernant la peinture. J'ai aussi essayé de faire la premiere couche avec une peinture en bombe et puis avec des couleurs acryliques mais ce système est très susceptible aux rayures. Je n'ai pas encore trouvé une méthode pour proteger l'objet quand il est utilisé dans mon contexte- la marionnette. Si tu veux regarde ma galerie de photos "Puppetry and Ultimaker". J'ai collé pas mal d'objets parce que j'utilise deux imprimantes et je peux donc imprimer les deux parties s'un grand objet en meme temps. Avec un peu de poncage ca march pas mal. J'attends avec impatience ta
  5. super, c'est une excellente idée. Je pense que ça devrait marcher aussi quand on re demarre à zéro de hauteur pour la deuxième partie pour coller les deux pièces après. A quoi va ressembler la figure complète? tu as fait la sculpture toi-même? Tu comptes la peindre après impression? et avec quoi? La peinture c'est mon problème au moment. Albert
  6. Bonjour Olivier, après pas mal d'essais je suis tombé sur RHINO 5. Un modelleur NURBS qui donne des résultats excellents quand on exporte les objets en STL. L'avantage c'est les fonctions boole et les arrondis parfaits. On a le meilleur du monde NURBS pour créer les formes "organiques" et la précision pour la construction. Il y a une version d'essai où la seule limitation est le nombre de mises en memoire. (25).Cela suffit largement pour les premiers tests. Et ça marche sur des machines plus anciennes aussi. J'ai passé un weekend de vacances sous la flotte pour apprendre ....si tu viens de
  7. Too many polygons dont improve the print quality usually. So I would recommend to use a decimation tool like z brush decimation master to bring down the polygon numbers to an acceptable level. I have decimated models from 300k to 50k without noticeable difference in print quality. Mesh.ab also seems to have a decent decimation tool.
  8. From the video one can see that it uses the same xy gantry and drive system as the UM...with clothespin belt tensioners!
  9. Wenn du den Ulticontroller aufmachst, ist auf der Rückseite in der Nähe des Piezosummers ein winziges SMD Potentiometer. Versuch mal es leicht zu bewegen. Das regelt normal die Helligkeit der Hintergrundbeleuchtung soviel ich weiss. Wenns ein Wackler ist, funktionierts dann vielleicht....ansonsten einschicken und umtauschen lassen.
  10. Thank you for the quick answer! With me it was a one wire disconnect ....before going into the amplifier circuit on the printhead. IF this was the cause. I can only speculate on that. Is the current going into the heater monitored? That might be another way to sound the alarm if something is in the woods. The difficulty with these traps is setting them up in such a way that they dont trip on a false alarm and ruin a print.... I' m glad the Ultimaker would not go up in flames - if that was tested it somehow dampens my worries a bit. The smoke screen was quite impressive though. I can only
  11. Thank you very much! I had a scare this afternoon when my hotend went into thermal runaway after a firmware update. Turned out the update had nothing to do with it but it got me thinking....
  12. Hi Illuminarti, I would like to know how I can "downdate" to coin a word - to an earlier version of the firmware. My machines awre now running with the firmware version that comes with CURA 13.03. I really like the progress as far as the display on the Ulticontroller is concerned- all of a sudden there are long file names, and more info on the display. But when I updated the machine I asked myself "what if for some reason the new firmware won't work?" I suddenly realized that I did not know the way back....Sometimes there might be bugs in newer versions of a firmware, and I am not well ver
  13. I just had a near desaster....a few things to learn here and a few questions as well. I have recently bought a second Ultimaker from someone who had finished it but lacked the time to really run it and get it tweaked out. He has built it quite well with some minor issues I was able to iron out. The machine has the 1.5.6. board and came without an UltiController. I have ordered one and connected it to the machine yesterday. It did not work, only showed 2 blank lines - just like when you misconnect the cables. This was not the cause, after I had updated the firmware it worked like a charm.
  14. BLENDER has out its Release Candidate 2.67. It contains some check functions for 3d Printing. You can test a model for overhangs, and non manifold triangles and the like. I have not tried yet but I think these guys are amazing...
  15. check the thickness of the pla ...I have a "red" roll where the thickness goes down all the way to 2.74 mm. This could mean the extruder will not have enough force to move it.
  16. Well, much the same with me. I run a print, then if I want to run a second print, I get "Serial Timeout exception" and the machine cannot connect anymore. Unplugging the usb cable, turning off the printer, restarting CURA, nothing works except a total restart of the computer. Pronterface works all the time though....any ideas?
  17. I have looked into 3d printing several years ago. I' m a puppeteer and for me the 3d printing process is a great tool. The first thing i tried was the powder printer a la Zcorp. Plaster/binder process. This had to be farmed out and the price for a 17 cm puppet head was about 250€. While I liked the results I got, the models were too heavy and probably too fragile as well. So I kept looking for an alternative where one could do the entire process at home. I have a FabLab close to where I live and went there to look at the new generation of FDM printers. I saw the RepRap style machines with t
  18. Hallo und willkommen! Ich denke, die neueste Version der Anleitung ist gut und bis jetzt hab ich noch keine Fehler gefunden. Mein Tip : Kugellager sollten stramm in den Holzteilen sitzen, auch im Plastikteil des Extruders. Da man hier leicht zuviel Kraft aufwendet und die Gefahr der Beschädigung der Holzteile durchaus gegeben ist, rat ich, die Kugellager vor dem Einbauen in einen Tiefkühler oder ein Tiefkühlfach zu legen. Eine Stunde reicht. Dadurch ziehen sie sich ein wenig zusammen und man kann sie leichter und ohne Werkzeug in die Lagersitze pressen. Bei den Pulleys die auf die Motoren
  19. Would love to test this...qualified as "beginner"... I'd also like to say I find it awesome what has happened on the software side in the last months and years. Today I can model sculpt and design with free software, slice with free software and print with free soft-and firmware. Without all the thousands of man hours you coding wizards have put into these projects, machines like the ultimaker would only be pieces of wood and metal. And all of this can be used by guys like me who are basically artists without much in depth knowledge of the bits and bytes. Thank you for your work and for ma
  20. i recently bought a second Ultimaker without an ulticontroller. The machine came assembled and with a few small mechanical problems. I am running it off a Windows XP system at the moment. On my first machine I never use the PC connection but print directly from the SD card. When I try to print from CURA the new machine is detected correctly and the status goes to "machine operational". When I hit the print button the status says "serial timeout exception". I then have to disconnect the usb, turn off the printer and restart the printing window. To get around this I am currently running t
  21. I wonder if its not easier to make a full plate of pieces with the CAD program before you go to CURA. i have successfully made runs with up to 25 identical parts this way. There seems to be a limitation where CURA/Skeinforge cannot handle all the data, but generally this seems to work well. I only had a problem when one of the parts was not starting at exactly the same height as the others and came off during printing, ruining the batch. I have found it easy to put parts as close to each other as possible with this method. This avoids blobs and strings, or you can rotate parts to get a mini
  22. I have filed flats onto shafts quite often on my RC model helicopters. I use a Dremel with a cutting disc at high speeds. And a small file for the fine work. On the Ultimaker I have used LocTite Blue on the set screws for the motor pulleys. This is the only place in the machine where I have done so since I do not want any hassles with grubscrews on the belt pulleys. Using LocTite can backfire on you if you want to disassemble the machine and cant get the screws to move. To check for slippage I draw a line across the axes and the pulleys with a felt tip pen. I also did this on the heads of
  23. I had the same problem and simply opened the fan by peeling off the label, and put a little bit of grease on the axis of the fan. Since then it runs quiet as it did in the beginning. Perhaps no need to switch to another fan at all.
  24. update zum weißen JET PLA : Das Zeug ist so glatt, daß es bei gleichzeitigem Bau mehrerer Objekte nicht richtig funktioniert. Ich habe 8 gleiche Teile auf dem Druckbett angeordnet, und bei mehreren Versuchen ist es nicht gelungen, alle 8 Teile dazu zu kriegen auf dem Druckbett zu bleiben. Die gleiche Datei mit dem silbernen PLA von Ultimaker lief einwandfrei durch. Habe alles probiert, TESA Band, Nopi, blaues Scotch, andere Betthöhe usw. Für einzelne in der Mitte liegende Objekte geht das weiße Zeug also gut, ansonsten ist es schwierig. Doch erstaunlich, wie verschieden die Eigenschaf
  25. Also ich hab 31 Euro bezahlt für die Kilo-Rolle. Was das Zeug bei Grrf kostet, hab ich nicht im Kopf. Im Münchner FabLab printen sie meistens mit dem Zeug von Grrf und scheinen recht zufrieden damit. Wie schnell die bei GRRF eine Bestellung abarbeiten kann ich nicht sagen, bei Amazon gehts halt rasend schnell. Wie das mit dem hygroskopischen Effekt ist, kann ich ebenfalls nicht beantworten. Muß man sehen, wie das bei längerer Lagerung ist. Ich habe alle Reste wieder mit dem Silica - Päckchen zusammen in Folie eingeschlagen. Bei direkter Anwendung wies aus dem Paket kam habe ich keine Effek
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