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colorfabb

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Everything posted by colorfabb

  1. Hi Andwew, that is some extreme wear on the hot-end tip! We haven't seen extreme wear like this on our 3D printers when testing glowFill. We've been printing a few 10-16 hour prints on the Ultimaker Original and Makerbot without obvious signs of wear. The Ultimaker 2 nozzle should be much more pointy, so this one most likely needs replacing. Was the nozzle still pointy before printing glowFill? Do you have any specific methods of cleaning your nozzle? Perhaps with a iron wire brush? Have you been printing other exotic materials?
  2. Hi izo2, we actually already made matte black XT and matte transparent XT. The result wasn't great, difference in gloss was hardly noticeable. Our PLA/PHA prints very matte on the Makerbot Replicator 2 and also on 1.75mm E3D hot-ends. Printing with a matte surface finish is all about your printing speed, temperature and layer height. 195C, 70-80 mm/s at 0.2mm layer height and 100% cooling fan works great for 1.75mm filament. I have not been able to do this trick on the Ultimaker hot-ends.
  3. Hi Dave, I think the problem might be your model is really tiny. This probably means the minimal layer time will determine the max print speed and not the set 50mm/s. Now when the print speeds slows down the filament will move even slower through the hot-zone, allowing heat to migrate through the filament. This can cause some issue with the teflon coupler, especially if it's already worn down. Have you every replaced the white Teflon coupler? My tip for printing this specific model would be to print maybe 2 at a time, or increase the scale. Both options should result in faster printing. Another way could be to adjust the minimal layer time down, so it'll allow for the 50mm/s. But if your model is too small it can't cool down.
  4. Hi Harold, Good suggestions about the temperatures. In addition to lowering the temperatures you can also lower the speed slightly, usually 40mm/s for best quality prints and increase the retraction speed, this is standard at 25mm/s but can be increased to 45 mm/s. When lowering the temperature, don't be afraid to go lower then 240C. We have one UM which is able to print at 225C, 0.2mm layer height at 40 mm/s, although this is probably a temperature error. cheers, Gijs
  5. Both the Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker Original have been able to successfully print with copperFill, but with less reliable results then other hot-ends. Novice Ultimaker users are not recommended to start playing with these experimental type filaments. You need to be willing to spend some time and effort if you want to print with copperFill on the UM Original en UM2. BronzeFill prints beautifully on both UM's so if you're not willing to risk copperFill stick to the bronzeFill Gijs
  6. Hi Daniel, At what speeds are you trying to print? I did some XT printing with the UM Original yesterday and was able to print solid parts already at 235C, 0.2mm layer height and at about 35mm/s print speed. Also when you insert the material into the bowden tube, a fresh piece of filament that has not been flattened by the knurled bolt, do you feel unusual amounts of resistance? cheers, Gijs
  7. So I was hoping to replace the hot end on our first Ultimaker 2 during the weekend however, I stumbled upon a problem. The temperature sensor is stuck in the UM2 heaterblock. I've tried heating it to 260C, but the sensor won't even wiggle a little, it's really really stuck in there. @Ultimaker I really liked that the UM Original heater block had holes that poked through the entire heater block. This made it easy to remove since you could push the heater cartridge and sensor out using a screwdriver. Now the only method is to pull on the fragile wires which will break when the sensor is stuck. Any tips on replacing a UM2 nozzle/heaterblock without replacing the temperature sensor? Cheers, Gijs
  8. Hi Arjan, In the picture I can see that the nozzle isn't clean, there's a noticeable build up of PLA on the outside of the nozzle. This shouldn't be there and might cause the very fine hairs you're seeing. Might be the heater block is leaking, can you see molten PLA on top of the heater block? What happens if you decrease flow rate to about 95%? And are you seeing the same effect on 0.2mm layer height? cheers, Gijs
  9. Hi Peggy, about the bubbles in XT filament. These are actually not 'air bubbles' but vacuum holes, they can occur when filament cools down and starts to set during the production. Since there isn't trapped air inside, but nothing at all it shouldn't effect the print quality. We have tested this on several printers and couldn't see a noticeable effect.
  10. Hmm.. I think you're on to something Robert. Tomorrow an official statement will be made regarding our XT line of filaments and the future plans, exciting!
  11. We've been testing bronzeFill for three weeks now on a UM original and haven't seen wear related issues. Every now and then I switch back to PLA/PHA and check if the print quality still looks the same. Then again it's a very difficult thing to actually measure, if the filament would cause the nozzle to wear out quickly we would have noticed by now The UM original must have printed about 1,5 kg of the stuff. @jeremie nice looking ring! Regular copper polish worked well for me. @foehnsturm the load dice is a cool example! Inspired us to print a few dices at the Haxpo this week. Also the Inception top is good idea, think I might make a few of those myself too Thanks for all the testing, great work!
  12. wooohoa!! That looks really great Markus, nice polishing already. Especially the first ring looks fantastic! Let us know what polishing tools your going to get. Think I'll try some of that glass sanding paper. cheers, Gijs
  13. We've been working on an exciting development, a bronze filled PLA filament. First test prints went really really well, printing with the ease of normal PLA/PHA compoun. Since there is actual bronze in the filament it's 4 times heavier then PLA which is awesome for jewelry items. Straight from the 3d printer the parts have a matte finish, reminds a bit of laser sintered parts. It's very easy to sand down, much easier then PLA and you can polish it to a sick shine!
  14. Hi Leo, This topic is growing so fast I can't keep up I saw from the pictures you posted a few pages back you had some issues with overhangs. My best guess would be your printing the overhangs to fast so they don't have enough time to cool, you should be able to see this during print, the layer will curl upwards towards the nozzle. Instead of slowing down the entire print, which is an option, you could also increase the minimal layer time. The default setting is 5s, you could increase this to about 8s. Especially on small prints with overhangs this will make a difference in quality. Like your work, looks very cool and bit creapy cheers, Gijs
  15. You could also try increasing the flow slightly and / or disable your cooling fan.
  16. Hi Conz, woow! This is one of the best work I've seen with woodFill, looks very nice. Good to hear that you were able to overcome some issues and kept trying. The final model looks very cool, we shared your 3d print project with our twitter follower, I'm sure they'll love it
  17. Already have the last tip printed, just haven't glued it yet
  18. Another tip is to slow your print speed down to a speed that you won't need the external cooling fan anymore. Once you've reached this print speed, you can turn down, or turn of the cooling fan completely. This makes the layer adhesion between layers much better, just takes a little longer to print.
  19. Sometimes I use a regular lighter to get rid of the 'white-ish' looking parts were the support material used to adhere to the model. Just a second in the flame works well.
  20. Our latest print project took 92 hours! Designed by Braddock, such a cool model! It was printed on a Delta Tower, 0.2mm layer height, 16% infill and 210C, 50mm/s speed. Total weight of the print is 2kg! However the model was scaled slightly to big so the antenna isn't completely finished! This beauty is going with us to Fabcon - Messe Erfurt 15 - 17 May. But we've also been printing with our Ultimaker 2's a lot lately! One of the Ultimakers had some extrusion issues, but after replacing the nozzle and the teflon bit it printed really well again. We've 3d printed our logo for the front desk of our new office, if you look closely you can still see the previous company its logo The letters are pretty much the maximum build size of UM2. ACHFOS - designed by Ola Sundberg. Printed on the Ultimaker 2, at 0.12mm layer height, 210C, 50mm/s, 16% infill. Printed on the Ultimaker 2, at 0.12mm layer height, 210C, 50mm/s, 20% infill. Printed on the Ultimaker 2, at 0.12mm layer height, 210C, 50mm/s, 16% infill, with support. Hanging from a very thin fishline looking badass in our print lab.
  21. Hi Xeno, Thank you for reporting your experience, I guess the photo is a bit to overexposed which makes the filament look too pale. The exposure was set so the background is almost 100% white, but in this case it has changed the color tone of the filament too much. Will fix it as soon as possible. The filament itself really is our natural color, this is what PLA/PHA looks like without any coloring. It's not a transparent as regular PLA, the PHA makes a bit cloudy and slightly translucent. When it's on a spool it will seem slightly darker then when it's being printed, because of it's translucency. Diablo in the photo above is printed with PLA/PHA naturel. Could you tell me the production date of the filament? A slight change in production (not material recipe, exactly the same) made the PLA/PHA naturel a bit less dark, so it might be you received one of those. What material is the 3d printed part on top of the spool? p.s. if you're not pleased with the material contact us at support@colorfabb.com and we'll get it sorted.
  22. Hi Albert, I could send you a couple of 3d printed pieces so you can try sanding, painting and wood varnishes and maybe report you findings on the forum? If you're interested PM me your adres and will set this up somewhere next week. Gijs
  23. Hi Braddock, Have you had any luck printing with our material yet? Can you tell me a little about printing temperature? Layerheight and speed that you are using? Also PM me your address so we can replace your spool with our new and better quality filament. I really like the projects that you are working on with you Ultimaker, stunning results! To clear a few things up: - yes colorFabb has switched it's base PLA material, somewhere near november / december 2013. The processing window of the first type of PLA we used was quite small, so we switched to a PLA type that is easier to work with. Less stringing and similar to other types of PLA that are used for 3d printing. - we haven't made any changes to our master batches (color) - we still add PHA to the mix, resulting in a tougher filament. - we have made changes in production which I can't say much about, but the result is a much better homogeneous base material
  24. Hi Nico, the transparent spools are used for all orders since the beginning of this year. If you're ordering from one of our resellers you might still get a black spool in some cases.
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