Jump to content

lars86

Member
  • Posts

    351
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by lars86

  1. Very cool! I am thinking about doing the same on my modified UMO+. Looking at the Fula-Flex 2: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CBYS6HF/ I was actually considering replacing the glass with a cast aluminum tooling plate and putting the build surface on that. It would definitely have better thermal performance, but I am also hoping that it could offer improved flatness as well.
  2. I got all the new parts finished up and dug into the conversion today. These cheap 8mm rods off Amazon are bang on 8.00mm, and appear to be very straight:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCQF7H3/ But, don't let the reviews fool you. These linear bearings are trash. I hoped to find 2 decent ones out of 12, but they are all wayyy too loose: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B087WPGQ8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have two Misumi bearings on the way ($15 in bearings, $15 in shipping). So I am really hoping they get my lash where I want it to be after all this effort! Here is a video refresher on the before deflection: And here it is after: Hard to get a fair comparison, since there is so much freeplay now. But the deflection is reduced so much. I also made a ringing test print to compare before/after with the same gcode. It prints at 80 mm/s and increases XY acceleration from 600 mm/s^2 to 6000 mm/s^2, layer by layer:
  3. Well, it has been quite a while, but I am finally launching on the 6mm to 8mm rod conversion. The beam deflection numbers are compelling enough to try it out. Basically, for a simply supported round beam, with a point load in the center, if you move from a 6mm rod to 8mm the reduction in deflection is nearly 70%! I have already redesigned my XY blocks and print head to support the 8mm rods, and am printing them now. Stay tuned!
  4. The overlap between devs on GitHub and users on the UM forum is probably pretty small. On this forum, it's possible some users have already found ways to do this. On GitHub, the devs have the ability to add features or report details that might be otherwise unpublished.
  5. Still a little tidying to do on my wiring, but she is a printer again! I really like RepRapFirmware so far and the quick, easy configuration changes. I have thermostatic fan control on my hot end fand and the mainboard cooling fan, so the printer sits silently at idle. I have the BLTouch probe integrated now for mesh bed leveling. The probe works nicely on the glass bed, and helps account for blue tape for cold bed prints. The Trinamic stepper drivers are amazing. Without all the R2D2 sounds, the printer make so much less noise pollution. The web control is well sorted and easy to use. I haven't even bothered to hook up the old LCD "Smart" controller.
  6. Hey guys, I was hoping that Cura could pass parameters for the minimum and maximum x and y values used in a given print. My thought is that you could push these values forward into mesh leveling bounds and quickly probe the area of bed being used without waste.
  7. Bed heater resistance is 3.3 ohms That puts power at 24V @ 175w
  8. Conversion is coming along well. I am taking my time and cleaning up a lot of wiring and other modifications while I am at it. Maestro is mostly configured and already driving all axes and heating my E3D V6. Just waiting for a PT100 daughter board to be able to sense bed temp directly and eliminate the additional bed kit board. Being able to thermostatically control the hot end fan and the fan cooling the stepper drivers is so nice. The printer is dead silent at idle now.
  9. I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner: Power = V^2 / R So I just need to measure the heater resistance tonight and I should be in business.
  10. Good thought. I have been all through there and haven't found that data unfortunately. The only clue I have is that the included 220w power supply has been running my whole printer up to this point, but they mention that is you have dual extrusion you will need an additional power supply. It must be pretty close to maxed out.
  11. Hi guys, Does anyone know the current draw from the Ultimaker Original Officiale Heated Bed? I'm trying to tally up all my power consumption for power supply evaluation. Thanks!
  12. I decided to pull the trigger on the Duet Maestro. Hoping for a winner.
  13. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan control options More accurate / smooth stepper motion Network connectivity More processor overhead. 8-bit is pretty lean once you start adding features. Touchscreen support would be nice Some of these items I could get with incremental upgrades (stepper drivers, Octoprint / rPi, etc). But I think buy-once-cry-once on a new controller would put me in a better place. Now that Marlin 2.0 is stable and supports 32-bit controllers, that is an option. I already have it running 2.0.3 at the moment and am familiar with Marlin. That said, some of the "nice" features in Marlin just don't work well for me yet, like [linear advance 1.5]. For K values that make the K-factor test print look perfect on my bowden setup (K=1.8), normal prints don't work at all. The linear advance extruder motions are incredibly chaotic. Even during print segments that effectively have a constant print head speed, L.A. is freaking out, apparently because of the direction change between straight line segments. Not so useful. Since the 32-bit controller support is still pretty sparse, taking Marlin out as a requirement opens more options. The Duet 2 Wifi looks like a good option. People generally seem to like it. The configuration looks very easy, and it appears to tick all my boxes. My only concerns so far, are whether the motion control will be a step forward from Marlin, ideally providing some functional extruder advance to improve bowden flow control. Also, it's a bit unclear whether it supports the Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I'd prefer to get everything up and running with that existing controller, and I don't want a web-only interface. Some posts show that they had very little interest in developing firmware support, even though the connections are present. But, some more recent posts seem to show the controller working on a Maestro. If anyone has some insights on this, I would definitely appreciate it!
  14. Did you ever get this working? I am considering swapping out my UMO mainboard for the Duet 2 or 3.
  15. I haven't run a second extruder before, but I think everything should be in configuration.h: // This defines the number of extruders // :[1, 2, 3, 4, 5] #define EXTRUDERS 1 Probably should make sure you have good values defined for the second extruder (E1) as well: /** * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm) * Override with M92 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 } /** * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s) * Override with M203 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 } /** * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves) * Override with M201 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }
  16. Di you do any calculations on the difference in torsional stiffness? My gut says that while the rulers will be stiffer in bending, they will deform more in torsion (trying to rotate the print head about the X or Y axis)
  17. I think the only change you will really need is changing: #define BOARD_ULTIMAKER // Ultimaker to: #define BOARD_ULTIMAIN_2 // Ultimainboard 2.x (Uses TEMP_SENSOR 20) ...and using these for your temp sensor definitions: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20
  18. I think you guys will have more luck following my thread: The UM2 or UMO+ should only need a couple small changes compared to my branch (motherboard, temp sensor).
  19. Mine is an earlier 1.5.7 board, with an official heated bed.
  20. The dual print fans should run via the existing PWM circuit. I went ahead and just ran a couple cheap 12v 30mm axial fans, in parallel, on that circuit. So far they have survived. I'm not sure what the worst case is if they fail. It would suck to burn out the transistor if they fail as a short. Not sure if fans ever really do that. I'm running a complete external power supply for the hot end fan right now. I would like to clean that up and have a pretty good path to take. I can solder in my voltage step down board, into the UM supply circuit and step down to 12v so that fan has a higher chance of success. I'm just curious how those voltage regulator board would handle a PWM signal (for the print fans).
  21. Thanks for the reply @conny_g I'm pretty sure that VCC/2 is 19v on the UMO and that they just found a 12v fan that "lives" at 19v.
  22. This sounds like a cool idea andy! Are you going to build some adjustment into your bearing mounts, so you can adjust lash against the rulers?
×
×
  • Create New...