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lars86

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Posts posted by lars86

  1. I got all the new parts finished up and dug into the conversion today.

     

    These cheap 8mm rods off Amazon are bang on 8.00mm, and appear to be very straight:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCQF7H3/

     

    But, don't let the reviews fool you. These linear bearings are trash. I hoped to find 2 decent ones out of 12, but they are all wayyy too loose: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B087WPGQ8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    I have two Misumi bearings on the way ($15 in bearings, $15 in shipping). So I am really hoping they get my lash where I want it to be after all this effort!

     

     

     

    Here is a video refresher on the before deflection: 

     

     

     

     

    And here it is after: 

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Hard to get a fair comparison, since there is so much freeplay now. But the deflection is reduced so much.

     

    I also made a ringing test print to compare before/after with the same gcode. It prints at 80 mm/s and increases XY acceleration from 600 mm/s^2 to 6000 mm/s^2, layer by layer:

     

    ieO7odoEDtKZ278Ootx_rcmtjsGb7yMiQqslejwY41Z5TrbxKR43n4XQo3Y6qxahEuRf_loC0Z015s8rIR76yvi3TiJYv96r0ujSnyQuApm9tly_MZ-Xb0KthZJLpwsI9djzYg-IItJH2LFxpq09m6-mK36s0-jH8MZfFpVHOUlHigO1CUp12vCLo1tUXoAUvxa3KiaD-qvU6zwHF_2ABnXKWDeoE-iHWS2HfYgwecuXDGYby024u6KQA6DbT87nOaTlRFWcqKNK2BtE_gbj-OBBOI5APs_SnDbEy8Qbn-YR-D3tXQkCzyVQoMV4vbaHbvdgdwwF1Fcb5O3w2Fhq6vZeqyT8D4W-DY-AdUuy-HROeVAFXzVh8dlzsIXHW99urbK9fzdEKDJhIS2A0VVKI8Tc8F2qQlxTIOq3AjWvmesZPgmp_mCnAa-VkgcxWdrd12Wcx_ZGGsNVBw-6c_tPn3kYdQRdjrJWAWGxDhUWqBTpne_jBmXH4GdpP7nceX5Pi-Vz9ujaohYAtKNkGphT2YaMv7PnBCjslVXMyJVa78fs2o8ejv0OiDlTAgYyt8mjpqtHZQ5LjCgUYmW-EU75LKLWO6Ye-_GITTdgfa364MrOQlOMpHw97Op0SC94XgjtqOcSgfxuwWwF4vr5-0ulhGk98AEVdV1OLH0Xd-IZHQnwlTdCMdsn6cRKYyYQrqISP7u26nnrTadJNmgDm3itq3G_=w2211-h1240-no?authuser=0

     

  2. Well, it has been quite a while, but I am finally launching on the 6mm to 8mm rod conversion. 

     

    The beam deflection numbers are compelling enough to try it out. Basically, for a simply supported round beam, with a point load in the center, if you move from a 6mm rod to 8mm the reduction in deflection is nearly 70%! 

     

    I have already redesigned my XY blocks and print head to support the 8mm rods, and am printing them now. 

     

    Stay tuned!

     

    image.thumb.png.6e8eeb25876ed94109d10adf037a2190.png

  3. On 2/10/2018 at 1:11 PM, andywalter said:

    Lars, any rotation about a vertical axis, as seen from above, should be prevented by the X and Y "flat" rulers. Any rotation as seen from front of UMO about Y axis should be prevented by "vertical" ruler going in X direction. Similarly rotation about X axis prevented by the other vertical ruler.

     

     

    Did you ever execute on this Andy?

  4. On 3/13/2020 at 4:47 AM, ahoeben said:

    More information here:

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7270

     

    Cross-posting is not always a good idea; it splinters the discussion.

     

     

    The overlap between devs on GitHub and users on the UM forum is probably pretty small.

     

    On this forum, it's possible some users have already found ways to do this.

     

    On GitHub, the devs have the ability to add features or report details that might be otherwise unpublished.

  5. Still a little tidying to do on my wiring, but she is a printer again!

     

    I really like RepRapFirmware so far and the quick, easy configuration changes.

     

    I have thermostatic fan control on my hot end fand and the mainboard cooling fan, so the printer sits silently at idle.

     

    I have the BLTouch probe integrated now for mesh bed leveling. The probe works nicely on the glass bed, and helps account for blue tape for cold bed prints.

     

    The Trinamic stepper drivers are amazing. Without all the R2D2 sounds, the printer make so much less noise pollution.

     

    The web control is well sorted and easy to use. I haven't even bothered to hook up the old LCD "Smart" controller.

     

     

     

    Z4oYbcbE1RcsF8hW1zSYYEtBETSDeKgX665z6qHF_quOSvJH6VvMZmleX1LTHIr7ZiNUF9QyVvvmz1FU3kf6VnAat4jWbSJBdqh5I5mtKbs_yd_pJQwxQgPHgebcGIFtx29cyVdIoQLDsbzaMtYup1epYQBQRNFoeT0rm4_zUGKrNjCBWPQhZef_m-oMvaNlPnyE8FJJx6j0u7_DzlYtnmtZGEq2S2lvEXGoQb8dD62vQD0u_RqbkPc2u-Pld3hypoH54AAzif77XmhHq-w14l0rTERuv42gaif0B1zIxXV_ycydbru6Vq60YuBAa1mZwYZxOYErpG8yP3lzIpxKblUDGCU0TeV-urKfaQhtw8MMKKrG76Xlu5sP7Ds7-oVv5U8anzz_h6HooGCfkddLCYsRzSYUvbOFGAxdjhqc7HBUhObXE4LFbaZyym4rFoB9HlNbDKZU4ywa2vqIsWFWq3Pqddlg9JT0vzVJw64iVaulXjDxydJ97Xq18z8Cz4-7-H4unHx-HF9Vw3cKHyPxt6BX1gpQzr9WwKvCAwvpSUOhYsSIK--S-KrpfUbXZBN0WVcZzo7VcSWXuhn0CP-MyXuiS1Edp67mteU-Lp9PL1Y2dSg23op3g6180w2KqBAkrKmKaEh_LTWga6cIHk_1GsNIXR2DyhZ381vaopwZDdGq5ipJVd-Nudo=w1462-h1297-no

     

     

    4Xi-9H9TKDQyGpRi3LdcnwpFfPcwQBIffVahi5Hk1K4-gOItZUi1HCxFfJQvGDn_wqMkNiiIKouPEp5DXpCAHwkCIdBaQ7zzZO76MeEJImA2HruUc_BMxeoahiJ_y7FnK5D-HfgWsMtUNj5FKFHpH0EzvOwF2SO0M7sqPw0hKFkg2_tY10wufCpDzCo0Uw4F5DMi0AhF96-ZJOazThBsm_pCiNKefghZB0cGcNzgnMXCScluOY9n6HfMM-7CZn2Bfpy08Ev-4fEKD1VVppwyKcJeVuVmX-aZWPgfZRK-i3Yuk6LMFEvaE6-lpELp6W1LIlTYpmy77YjaTAEM95iLsQ83hXxZSWwrIa_J_v0KkTquHmhhOsn9w4tbfGUO4un-2-HnlDEs4JiajlXEMcWUJxQHcB-wmbpiBmR91RuxJbO8AqBMYmu3XF2D9g7fgR2CIH-qcujL5jRoW9QlBT8w1we9tWkpkXRXzdCqr5-Aj3pbM-gJOugu8g4QZjzHlNTcpDzGkCmCuahhi4QNNx8n0oSbgpWWMSQvctPTVxxYZmdGib7_VOI4xZDf7tPaRQRbH1vucfxv6nuqYLh23bUiwLwn9sO5A2DHKHD41grKAScpoeWwPkdSchyM8qqptOiZwUZIURrKaQTdIA9fnGCHCd8JAwJYXiGoHZ5Eg-awI7Yps87zF1-82MI=w1040-h1297-no

     

     

     

     

  6. Conversion is coming along well. 

     

    I am taking my time and cleaning up a lot of wiring and other modifications while I am at it. 

     

    Maestro is mostly configured and already driving all axes and heating my E3D V6. Just waiting for a PT100 daughter board to be able to sense bed temp directly and eliminate the additional bed kit board.

     

    Being able to thermostatically control the hot end fan and the fan cooling the stepper drivers is so nice. The printer is dead silent at idle now.

     

     

    image.thumb.png.07c2681564ee38914b4fcdd1a161580a.png

  7. 2 hours ago, neotko said:

    Maybe that info is on the electronics of the bed github

     

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/HeatedBedUpgrade/tree/master/1155_Print_Table_Heated_Bed_(x1)

     

     

    Good thought. I have been all through there and haven't found that data unfortunately.

     

    The only clue I have is that the included 220w power supply has been running my whole printer up to this point, but they mention that is you have dual extrusion you will need an additional power supply. It must be pretty close to maxed out.

  8. Hey guys,

     

    I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. 

     

    Current build specs:

     

    • Official heated bed
    • Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys
    • Custom print head with E3D V6
    • Custom extruder drive with geared stepper
    • Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller

     

     

    Here is what I want:

     

    • Quieter operation
    • More integrated fan control options
    • More accurate / smooth stepper motion
    • Network connectivity
    • More processor overhead. 8-bit is pretty lean once you start adding features.
    • Touchscreen support would be nice

     

     

    Some of these items I could get with incremental upgrades (stepper drivers, Octoprint / rPi, etc). But I think buy-once-cry-once on a new controller would put me in a better place.

     

    Now that Marlin 2.0 is stable and supports 32-bit controllers, that is an option. I already have it running 2.0.3 at the moment and am familiar with Marlin. That said, some of the "nice" features in Marlin just don't work well for me yet, like [linear advance 1.5]. For K values that make the K-factor test print look perfect on my bowden setup (K=1.8), normal prints don't work at all. The linear advance extruder motions are incredibly chaotic. Even during print segments that effectively have a constant print head speed, L.A. is freaking out, apparently because of the direction change between straight line segments. Not so useful.

     

    Since the 32-bit controller support is still pretty sparse, taking Marlin out as a requirement opens more options.

     

    The Duet 2 Wifi looks like a good option. People generally seem to like it. The configuration looks very easy, and it appears to tick all my boxes. My only concerns so far, are whether the motion control will be a step forward from Marlin, ideally providing some functional extruder advance to improve bowden flow control. Also, it's a bit unclear whether it supports the Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I'd prefer to get everything up and running with that existing controller, and I don't want a web-only interface. Some posts show that they had very little interest in developing firmware support, even though the connections are present. But, some more recent posts seem to show the controller working on a Maestro.

     

    If anyone has some insights on this, I would definitely appreciate it!

    • Like 1
  9. 23 minutes ago, theoross said:

    Hi,

     

    do you have any idea how to change the firmware to allow for a second extruder running from the spare port on the umo+ board?

     

     

     

    I haven't run a second extruder before, but I think everything should be in configuration.h:

     

    // This defines the number of extruders
    // :[1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
    #define EXTRUDERS 1

     

    Probably should make sure you have good values defined for the second extruder (E1) as well:

     

    /**
     * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
     * Override with M92
     *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
     */
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }
    
    /**
     * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)
     * Override with M203
     *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
     */
    #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          { 300, 300, 5, 25 }
    
    /**
     * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
     * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)
     * Override with M201
     *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
     */
    #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }

     

    • Like 1
  10. On 1/27/2018 at 1:47 PM, andywalter said:

    Hopefully this is my final layout for the 4-Ruler-Guide replacement fo 6mm rods project. Guides are now single-sided = slimmer & lighter, and by juggling the widths & exactly where in the middle I put the anti-backlash tensioner wheels, I've managed to overlap things nicely while still keeping decent clearances. It's 6mm less high than the prev design shown above, much neater layout leaving front-right corner completely clear, and the X/Y motion-control rulers are level with top of nozzle & top of heater block, so I'm really happy so far.

    Various views:

     

    View_1.png

     

     

     

     

    Di you do any calculations on the difference in torsional stiffness? My gut says that while the rulers will be stiffer in bending, they will deform more in torsion (trying to rotate the print head about the X or Y axis)

  11. On 2/1/2018 at 9:15 AM, burdickjp said:

    Is this an early UMO with the original board? http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB

    A newer UMO+ with the UM2 board?

    Mine has the newer UM2 PCB.

     

     

    I think the only change you will really need is changing:

     

    #define BOARD_ULTIMAKER       // Ultimaker

    to:

    #define BOARD_ULTIMAIN_2      // Ultimainboard 2.x (Uses TEMP_SENSOR 20)

     

    ...and using these for your temp sensor definitions:

     

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20

  12. The dual print fans should run via the existing PWM circuit. I went ahead and just ran a couple cheap 12v 30mm axial fans, in parallel, on that circuit. So far they have survived. I'm not sure what the worst case is if they fail. It would suck to burn out the transistor if they fail as a short. Not sure if fans ever really do that.

     

    I'm running a complete external power supply for the hot end fan right now. I would like to clean that up and have a pretty good path to take. I can solder in my voltage step down board, into the UM supply circuit and step down to 12v so that fan has a higher chance of success.

     

    I'm just curious how those voltage regulator board would handle a PWM signal (for the print fans).

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