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lars86

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Everything posted by lars86

  1. I guess that I just don't see the reason to print that fast. I'd rather slow it down and print strong, reliable, good looking parts. The circular motion sound terrible, and it burdens almost every part of the system (drivers, steppers, belts, bearings, fans, etc.)
  2. I did a throughput test at 250mm/s, 0.15mm layers, 220*, 0.4mm nozzle. No issues to speak of. Except that the motion quality of the circular perimeter passes is terrible. Sliced with Cura 13.06.3. I'm not sure if it's an issue with Cura or the UM. I tried all different combintations of XY jerk/accel, and could tune the infill for decent motion, but perimeters are junk.
  3. 1) Replacing the entire print head is not a beginners task, so compromising design aspects to fool-proof it doesn't really interest me. There is already ~4mm of clearance there, so if you managed to hit that, you are doing it wrong! 2) I have a 40x10 fan to try as well, but it has a 3-pin connnector, so this 40x20 was the plug and play option. The spare 3 pin connector on the UM print head is for a second fan, correct? It and my other fans are both male connectors for some reason. 3) It wouldn't be terribly hard to have mounts for 50mm fans as well, but I just feel that 40mm fans are cheap enough and package well. 4) It might be tricky to make the integrated duct modular. Getting a nice clean, thin walled, lofted surface there took some time. I don't really think this particular fan pushes enough air to afford that option. I have a couple others to test though. I would love a single fan, powerful enough to push air through the heat sink, then on to the print. But then you would lose control of when you want print cooling, since the up-tube fan should always be running. 5) If you tried to raise the platform height, you would give up quite a bit of XY travel (much more important I think). This design is meant to heave 1mm of clearance to the bottom of the stock XY blocks. The Mooncactus blocks only give you another 1.5mm or so. Even with the added length in the up-tube/heatsink assembly, I only gave up maybe 5mm of Z height. That nautilus print wasn't meant to be a throughput test by any means. I'll try and see. For anything besides big, wide open infill, I don't see how you could even approach those print speeds without giving up a lot of quality. When the perimeter has complex geometry and overhangs, rushing doesn't seem to work well.
  4. Thank you for that insight! I was wondering where all that friction came from, but hadn't started tracking it down yet. Running the single clamp bolts totally loose, and the front 2 just snug seems much better. Time for a redesign!
  5. Good question! That remains to be seen. I only did a couple prints last night after the rebuild. I printed this nautilus gear set at 80mm/s, 200mm/s rapids, 1.5mm retract, 194*, 0.1mm layers without any issues at all. Really nice print quality. I haven't calculated the volumetric flow rate though. What geometry are you using for volumetric flow? The circular cross section of the filament * extrusion speed, or the rectangular cross section of the printed bead times travel speed? How can you tell the difference between not having enough time to melt, and the intrinsically higher nozzle pressure to flow faster through a given nozzle orifice? The XY blocks are pretty decent. Snowygrouch keyed me into one issue though: it's very easy to over-clamp the bronze bushings and generate a lot of friction. I am running the outboard (of the 3) clamping bolts totally loose right now. Also, the arm which trips the Y (front) limit switch isn't quite big enough. I hogged out the limit switch slots another 1/8" inch to adjust for that. I'll probably whip up my own design soon, since the 2-piece setup is far easier to change out. I think the ideal would be to have a spherical bearing surrounding that bushing, and the block housing that. It would prevent slight belt pair misalignment from inducing bind in the bushing. The system is over-constrained right now.
  6. Hey guys, It's been a while coming, but I got a bunch of my upgrades put into place. I've been working on the hot end for a while now, wanting a shorter melt zone with a very quick transition below the glass transition temp of the plastic. No PEEK, PTFE, etc. Stainless steel up-tube, custom heat sink, integrated ducting, active cooling. MoonCactus' XY blocks. Bare print head weighs 48g, compared to 78g for stock. Each XY block drops from 20g to 9g. 74g total weight decrease! 47% reduction to the moving mass. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/slideshow/album-113/
  7. What needs to happen to stabilize the bed (cantilevered design aside), is to take out the XY lash, while still allowing some give in Z. I'm thinking about mounting Oilite bushings (like the 8mm ones) vertically in the bed itself. Then bolting stubby shafts on the platform to ride in those bushings, with springs placed on each shaft pushing the bed away. The shafts would be drilled and tapped on the top surface to allow a flanged bolt from the top to set height. I'm almost done with a complete top end rebuild tonight. I completely redesigned the hot end, and print head. The head is printed and includes an integrated 40mm fan shroud, which ducts air though a custom made heat sink on the stainless steel up-tube. Also, added MoonCactus' XY blocks.
  8. So, it's not just me! I am also noticing a lot more randomness in the XY plane (obviously no fault of the pulleys). I even have large weights glued to the front underside of my bed, and rubber bands pulling it to one side, in order to take the lash out of the 12mm bearings, and make it less resonant. Over extrusion definitely makes it worse, as it increases the force that the nozzle exerts against the part/bed. I've been printing a new print head, which is a very long print, and to avoid the occasional layer of under-extrusion (thin bit of filament?), I've tuned for slight overextrusion, so I get a strong part. If we can just get the bed rock solid, the prints are going to look amazing! How are you liking the XY blocks? (besides the limit arm misalignment) I've printed mine, but need a little more hardware to install.
  9. I went ahead and emailed Kaspersky a trace file of the slow down too.
  10. You nailed it Daid! Paused Kaspersky, and just like that Cura ran as you intended (no complaints about auto slicing now!) So, I tried to narrow down the root cause. One by one, I excluded each curaengine.exe and pythonw.exe (I had about 6 of each, from the prior versions) from having their (and child apps) behavior analyzed, files scanned, etc. Nada. Disabled file anti-virus altogether, nada. Disabled application-control, nothing. Disabled "System watcher", that did it. So, under the main heading of System-watcher, there are 2 sub-options, Exploit-prevention and behavior stream signatures. Un-checking both of those doesn't fix it, only disabling all of "System watcher" fixes the lag. Kaspersky is not normally like that. I've used it for years without issue. I hope this info gives you diagnostic help. Let me know if I can help more.
  11. Cool, I'd be happy to try excluding Cura from application scanning in Kaspersky or disabling it altogether when I get home later.
  12. Did you check out the video I posted?
  13. It's happening with any model, even the low resolution XY banana blocks. Like I said, plenty of memory. 8GB total more than 3 GB free even with Cura running.
  14. Doh, unfortunately disabling those check boxes didn't affect m issue at all. I recorded a short video which should help clarify it a lot. Let me know what other diagnostic info would be helpful.
  15. That trick about using floor thickness maxed out for 100% infill is working great, thanks! I'm printing a redesigned print head, and it's looking nice. I like how it will now rapid over infill space without retract. Would it be hard to have it look ahead and use a path from the infill, at print speed rather than rapid, to avoid the bump caused by the random path partial bead?
  16. Daid, I hear you about being selective on what features you add, to keep the interface manageable, but come on. I don't know what is slowing it down, but it's slow as hell! Would it be helpful to record my screen, so you can see? This cannot be what you intend for the interface, because it's almost unusable.
  17. My laptop is pretty fast (SSD, plenty of RAM...) and it is sooo slow to set a print up. All the time saved by the awesome new steam engine (thanks Daid!) is lost again in waiting for the program to become responsive. Every single field changed, box checked, or part moved on the bed, comes along with a 3-5 second period of unresponsiveness. Daid, what is the resistance to adding a check box that enables/disables this auto slicing?
  18. Thanks Daid, I'll try that trick. I understand that when making an abrupt switch between print speeds, there will be a lag for the nozzle pressure to equalize, and it will either under or over-extrude during that time. From what I can tell, within about 1-2 seconds, pressure is stable again. What I'm seeing isn't a case of that, since the under-extrusion persists for the entire infill section. That transition is really only going to be an issue on very small objects, where that perimeter to infill switch happens very frequently. Luckily, you don't stand to benefit much from fast infill speeds on those objects, so the solution is to command speeds that are equal, or close. I really think that adding a simple infill flow multiplier would allow us to get great extrusion, with a large speed difference, for prints that can take advantage. I took a good picture of this issue. I'll post it up.
  19. 0.9 mm and 190*. I tried all the way up to 215 with no improvement. This printbl white PLA really likes lower temps. I really don't think it is a volumetric flow limitation though.
  20. Could we get a flow rate multiplier for infill moves, pretty please? I love having the separation of print speeds between perimeter and infill (thank you!). I'm finding that I tend to see under extrusion on infill moves (especially at lower densities). Right now I'm printing at 50 mm/s on perimeters and 100 on infills, at 100% density. Even when tuning the Ulticontroller flow override so that the perimeters are slighty over-extruded, the infill shows under-extrusion and incomplete bonding between passes. Thanks Daid
  21. Still seeing what I feel is unnecessary movement in the tool path. It seems to look ahead at what will be happening in subsequent layers to determine the strategy. Maybe at lower infill densities it makes sense to do solid infill underneath what will be exposed surface, but at 100% infill (and likely 75% and up), it creates a lot of unneeded movement. In cases where it is necessary, having those paths run parallel to the longer dimension would be nice. This would prevent the ugly surface caused by rapid zig-zags. This isn't the best example, but you can see it a bit. Some layers were really bad.
  22. Hey Daid, I'm trying to print 4 items with 13.06 and can't find the old option to print all items together (versus one at a time). Thanks, Lars
  23. On my last print this feature worked pretty well... for most of it. When it got near the top, that horizontal shift had some jumps in it I guess, because the infill started failing. Subsequent layers jumped over too far and there was no overlap.
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