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sanjay-e3d

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Everything posted by sanjay-e3d

  1. Yup we're completely rinsed for stock of 3mm hotends at present, expecting resupply within the week and we'll ship them as soon as we have them. You can still place your order as a preorder. Switzerland really is expensive to ship to - which is a pity. Interlink/DPD do a great low cost service all over Europe for around £15 depending on where you are for up to 30kg of stuff, but it jumps to £38 for Switzerland. FedEx is cheaper.
  2. Jonny You shouldn't need to pay a penny! (Unless you want to buy extras that exceed the £50 mark to go with your free hotend) - you can just log in, shop and checkout.
  3. Jonny You posted first, so I suppose you win! I've added £55 of credit to your E3D account - should be enough to cover the hotend, shipping and some bearings/bushings for the mount. Will be interested to see what you come up with!
  4. Chuck You'll need to add a new printed XY carriage to get it on, so not quite a bolt on and go, but no a massive overhaul either. There are some E3D-v6 mounts out there on thingiverse, but these may not fit v6 due to new smaller size of v6. This one looks like it should work quite well though. I'm happy to support the creators of the original v4/v5 mounts in creating a v6 ready mount. If anyone who has designed mounts for the previous E3D ends would like to do an update, i'm happy to get them out some free parts to support the cause. Jonny Some users, mainly 1.75mm Bowden users with relatively weak ungeared extruders had trouble with generating enough pressure for completely reliable flow. Quite a lot of 1.75mm bowden users were just fine however, the data is a little noisy, we've done testing and have had a hard time making them jam or underperform. Some extra variable somewhere. However in v6 we essentially "drilled out" the nozzles by default - you can see drawings of this on the individual nozzle pages on our site. We've also overhauled the heat-break manufacturing process for a fantastically smooth surface finish inside. This should make prior issues go away. Anon431 Not really, I'm not sure how good their heater cartridge contact is, ours might be a little bit better, I'm not sure. The thermocouple should perform well too, so all in all I see no reason not to use the stock UM block in place of the E3D block. It certainly simplifies wiring and firmware. By simplifies, it means you have to make zero wiring or firmware changes, other than running the fan wires to the UM power supply 12v rail. (Are UM2 now on 24v?) Tommy A v5 nozzle will fit on a v6 just fine, v6 nozzles are a bit better in a few areas, but your v5 nozzle will work just fine on a v6. You can also use v6 nozzles just fine on v5 and v4 hotends. All fine.
  5. Hi Guys, Just thought I'd drop in and let you know we've released our new v6 hotend, which is smaller, easier, and generally better performing. There's a 10% off promo for the first few days too. I'm particularly excited about what the 3mm bowden product means for UM users, as it carves a huge amount of bulk of the hotend by using embedded couplers. The UM mounting designs are by far some of the most polished and well thought out mounts I've seen for E3D hotends and I hope the v6 can serve to make things even better. As is always the case with E3D products, if you're having problems just get in touch. We stand behind our stuff and if it doesn't work properly we'll make it right. Everybody who has comes to us with problems through the support system gets supported into a working situation, even if that means replacements. We've had some reliability niggles in the past, we've pulled out all the stops to eliminate them from the manufacturing process in v6. You can find a blog post of all the gory details that went into v6 here: http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=21 Sanjay
  6. Hi ultimaker peeps, Really awesome to see all the very beautifully designed solutions here on this thread. You UM guys seem to all have quite a bit more knack for design than I see elsewhere, lots of curved filleted pretty solutions! I get a few people a week asking about how to mount the E3D to their machine, mainly pertaining to electronics/firmware setup. We're currently holding a competition on our own forums for the best guides and posts to do with E3D hotends. If someone were to write a guide for E3D and UM then they would stand a very good chance of winning some prize money. http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5 Competition details: The forum is just starting out so we are looking to crowd-source some of the awesome guides and tutorials that many of you have written. Between you all, there is a fair bit of E3D experience! By way of some encouragement we are running a competition for the best 10 posts made before Midnight (GMT) on the 31st March. The rewards for the best posts as follows: Winner £75 Store Credit 2nd Place £50 Store Credit 3rd Place £30 Store Credit 4th - 10th Place £20 Store Credit The posts can be on anything, however we are particularly looking for: Assembly guides - printer specific or not Reports of prints in interesting materials - very high temperatures? Troubleshooting guides Hacks & Mods Printed Add-Ons - Carriages, mounts, ducts, etc.. Kraken-related experiences For many of you, this could be as simple as re-posting one of your existing guides here. We're looking to create a centralised knowledge-base pertaining to all things E3D.
  7. Hi guys, I haven't been as active as I would like on these forums, but I am simply strapped for time. I do read everything that gets posted here, but it seems you guys are getting on really well. If you ever do have issues I am still here looking out for you guys! Just thought I'd drop by and let you know about the status of E3D Kraken. I now have prototypes: More images here: http://imgur.com/a/8Qey0 And a video run down of the features and design here: I would love to see someone get this running on an ultimaker - and I am willing to give out free parts to someone who can show that they have the electronics to drive at least 3 extruders, as well as the ability to design mounting solutions. If you're interested do post here letting me know why you'd make a good tester.
  8. Here's and idea for you guys. Take that coupler I sent you, and pull that little elliptical collet out. You'll see that it's an injection moulded part with tiny embedded steel teeth. What happens here is that as you try and pull out the tubing, the little collet gets pulled back with it, when it's inside the body of the coupler there is a little angled ridge which compresses the little jaws of the collet to grip the tube. The whole coupler is designed around sealing and carrying gasses or liquids, but we don't care about any of that. What you should be able to do is create a hole with an appropriate ridge in the printed part mount, just pop in the collet, and do away with the rest of the coupler. I have tested this method with machined aluminium parts for a future product/update and it works well, saves a lot of space and is very neat.
  9. The assorted mounting options on here are looking really nice! Looks like you are all getting on nicely. I'm fully in approval of re-using the ultimaker aluminium block/heater/thermocouple - as long as its got an M6 thread down the middle then you're golden really. Nick Foley The thermistor is the remaining pain point i'd like to get sorted, and I really have looked into those sorts of options. However I am unable to find a nicely packaged thermistor that is rated to any sort of decent temperature (150C+). I have even asked for them to be custom made from several factories in china, but to no avail. Something like this would be lovely: http://www.vishay.com/docs/29065/ntcascw.pdf The final option we are considering is just to do our own production of a probe - by cementing the current standard thermistor into a very small socket head set screw or similar threaded object. It's just the labour of doing so is prohibitive right now.
  10. Thingster Nice suggestion there - noted. Nick Foley Sounds good - keep us updated. I am working on a section for the site where we will have some sort of compatibility grid with suggested printed adaptors where needed etc. It would be good to have a few different options for the UM crowd to mount the E3Dv5 etc to their machines. Kraken is on the way, slight delay due to a last minute optimisation that makes things a little more compact and easier to use. Unfortunately I think we may be up to 4-5 weeks away from Beta sales. I should have some pictures of my handmade prototype and CAD renders to go up soon though!
  11. Hi All, To everyone that has a pending order with us: Everything is shipping! All orders made before June 11th have shipped. Everything else is shipping over the weekend, possibly Monday for some of the very recent orders. Everyone is receiving the most up-to date hotend, which is effectively the v5 now. Many performance and ease of use tweaks have been done, but the fundamentals such as mounting dimensions, overall length etc (the things that matter for making it fit your machine) have remained identical. You will just be receiving a hotend that is lighter in weight, and has a somewhat improved thermal performance. We hope to move to a permanent state of "shipping within 1-2 days of purchase" by the end of the week. Concerning water cooled and multi-nozzle hotends Because there seems to be a bit of speculation/confusion surrounding this I am going to let the cat out of the bag. We have on the way a small prototype run of a 4 nozzled, water cooled, bowden fed hotends. We are calling this new hotend "Kraken" - A multi tentacled water borne monster! The total footprint of the hotend is only 30*40mm in XY plane, the Z height from top to tip is under 40mm, and the 4 nozzles are arranged in a rectangle only 20mm*18mm apart. The weight without electronics looks to be around 110 grams, which is barely the weight of 2x E3Dv5 hotends. Each nozzle to have separate temperature control. Each nozzle can be individually levelled and adjusted in height to be planar with the bed in a very easy and quick way. The small size and weight despite 4 nozzles is due mainly to the high efficiency of water cooling, even with only a tiny amount of water flow and a small cooling channel we still have a massive excess of cooling capacity. The second reason is a new way of mounting/gripping bowden tubes which has all the convenience and grip of pneumatic push-fit couplers, but with significantly less bulk and weight. We intend to keep the price reasonable, and below the price for buying the equivalent number of E3Dv5. But to be clear - Kraken is not a replacement for the normal v5 hotend, which will remain our main product that suits most users. The Kraken is designed purely for multi-nozzle bowden feed applications. Futhermore it is not finished! We will be shipping the majority of our beta prototyping run to trusted testers. I expect problems to occur and tweaks to be necessary. I will start a separate thread once things are ready, and the final version of Kraken will be developed in a public/interactive manner so the community can input what it wants/needs so that we can give you guys what you want. Kraken will be open-source when sold publicly. Cheers, Sanjay
  12. Trion Awesome! I think this is the first "clone" version I have seen. (I have heard of others doing, or attempting to do so, but nothing coming of it) Really nice looking machining. The version you will recieve (I think - I don't do the actual shipping) will be a slightly updated version with more fins, and less weight, as well as slightly increased chamfers all around the filament path to ensure smooth insertion and passage of filament. In general: I know I havent been super active here in the forums! Sorry. It's just a matter of being super busy. We have had a bit of a problem with being supplied out-of-spec heater cartridges by our supplier in China which has really caused a big headache for us. If anyone reading this has recieved a heater that isn't fitting right in the heater-block or isn't getting hot enough then don't fear - we are already in the process of shipping out replacements to everyone who may have been affected and I am really sorry for any problems caused. We want to be able to support the Ultimaker crowd as much as possible, and for us that means being able to supply a compatible mounting/bowden coupling solution. The festo couplings that am001 and trion are using in am001's design are really nice, but they aren't terribly cost effective and festo isn't a good fit for out supply chain. Creating a printable mount that works with our current couplers is on the list. We are experiencing some (slight) delays in shipping due to an unwell machinist, right now - unfortunately there isn't much we can do about this, but we are doing everything in our power to ship all units ASAP. Sanjay
  13. Chopmeister It's annoying as hell isn't it? It's like that because the reprap "standard" is based (albeit somewhat loosely) around Groovemount and J-Head hotends, which were designed in the USA where metric is not prevalent. Sigh. Furthermore - our dimensions deviate from the standard! Because the normal mounting method is two screws going through the body and through the groove in the top of the hotend, and biting into the hotend as they pass. Older hotends are made from peek, which is much more compliant for screws to bite into. However ours in aluminium, so we have to add some clearance to let the screws pass while still biting enough to mount securely. It's the one part about the design I don't really love. It's also the only part I don't have much of a choice in. My hope is that people will move towards the hotend having a male M8/M10 external thread, and the carriage having a female portion into which it screws. With plastic the hotend could self-tap quite happily. For machines that arent made of printed parts the use of a nice easy metric thread would be awesome too. I can dream. Rant over.
  14. KitWasHere: The thermistor is a really standard EPCOS 100K, that is available as option 1 in the default marlin firmware. No making of tables or hassle needed. Just use the default ultimaker config, but change the -1 to a 1 and you should be good to go!
  15. Lars The matter about having a larger surface area vs a better heatsink is quite interesting, but in my mind having less stainless insulating the top of the break is vital. A little heatsink compound would settle this matter I think. However all of this thinking is intuitive, and not tested with simulation. Just my raw thoughts With regards to temp gradient across the block; How do you find this actually affects extrusion and temperature of the fluid plastic inside the meltzone? Is 5C across a block a significant enough change to warrant removal? Have you thought of lagging the heater-block with glass-fibre braid-tape and or Kapton? Flexible heaters are being used by makibox. Check out their blog for details. Instead of using two half wattage heaters in parallel (Half wattage heaters are hard to find) you can just use two standard wattage heaters in series. Half the power will go to each. Sanjay
  16. KitWasHere WOW! Awesome progress man, really nice mount - is the STL something you want to publicly release yet? Or are you waiting until it's all tested? The design looks really sleek and nice. Did you use the original UM Laser files and extrude them to make the basic plate? It looks like a perfect match. How are you planning to secure the bowden tubing? I see that really nice diagonal/upright C-Clip type thing, but is that alone going to be enough to hold it in place? MagicXMan Thanks for the order! I am quite sure our hotend will work without any problems inside your heated area as long as you aren't getting silly hot inside of there. Let me know how you get on with making it work and the results you have.
  17. Just a bit of an update: We have (after going through many different brands and sizes) found a really really nice pneufit coupler. It's made of all Delrin (POM) so is super slick and self lubricating, the insides of the fitting are well matched to the diameter of the filament and best of all they have a really nice smooth tapered internal that guides filament smoothly through with no catching or jamming. They use an awkward 1/8th Inch BSPP thread - but this is pretty much standard on pneumatic fittings. I am having a hard time getting a tap locally, but have one on the way next day delivery. The heatsink is already drilled and ready for the thread to be cut, all I need is a tap. Also waiting on PFA tubing from a UK supplier, but this should be along in the next day or two also. I don't have an ultimaker to fit this to, but I should at least have some solid confirmation of it functioning as a bowden extruder in its own right in the next few days. I have had some really kind offers from the community for testing and helping to fit these to an ultimaker with a printable mounting system of some sort. Thanks to all those who have been in touch. Will keep you updated as things progress. Sanjay
  18. Hi all, KitPrinklers: Thanks for the early order! There are two holes for temp sensors on the heater-block. One is 2mm going all through the block, and another is 2.5mm and only goes in 4mm or so. Unfortunately it looks like you might need to get the drill out and use a 3mm bit to expand one of the holes. Be careful about not drilling through into the holes for other bits, it's quite close in there! Let me know how you get on. Lars: Awesome work! Really like the comparisons. Having a nice small groove/turn tool with a carbide tip is a godsend ISCAR do a cracking one. We too started out M8, but rapidly moved to M6 as it's much close to what you want to end up with. Having only a small diameter of SS inside the heatsink helps too, the less SS you have the closer the al heatsink is to draw heat. Having a larger diameter piece of SS acts like an insulator. Also A4/316SS is quite a bit thermally better than A2 alloys. With all that said, I expect your design will work just great as it is, but perhaps a little hot at the heatsink. Would be really nice to see how your sims match reality. Good luck!
  19. Hi all again, We have ordered some really nice looking POM (Delrin) push fit pneumatic fittings. These definitely have a permissive OD for the filament, and POM is a very low friction material so these should work nicely, just need to get a hold of them for testing now. Calinb: From the point of view of making your own on a one-off basis this is all well and good, but from a marketable retrofit version you have to consider that our heatsink is designed as an efficient heatsink, and that plate is designed as.. a plate. That said, we have had really good results with a plate as a combined heatsink and X-Carriage, with a 3mm SS heatbreak poking right out of the bottom of the plate, leading directly to the heater/nozzle. This gives really low Z profile which is nice. We did need to add a PC heatsink/fan combo to the plate, just like am001 has in his photos. Lars: 0.4 is indeed quite thin, but no challenge for most modern production companies - it is also perfectly strong enough, I cannot break the SS part by hand - I have to use a spanner and the chuck of a lathe to grip it firmly enough so I am not worried about mechanical strength at all. 7W seems about right for you CSA and length with stainless - this is quite a lot considering that your average hotend needs about 10-15W at idle to maintain temperature. Pushing more power into it to compensate shouldn't really be a problem, but remember that heat you then have to get rid of (quite rapidly and sharply) at the heatsink. My advice would be to consider going longer or thinner. How are you planning to manufacture? KitWasHere: We will try and make the ultimaker kit accept the existing thermocouple/amplifier combo. Which should make it plug and play. Can anyone get me info on the OD of the TC? Apparently 3mm?
  20. Righty! Thanks everyone for the informative replies and suggestions: Lars: We too are modelling/simulating in SolidWorks. Very nice. Our wall thickness is 0.4mm. You have to consider both the wall thickness and it's length obviously. Fouriers thermal transfer equation is most useful in this regard. If your break is short (Like ours) then you also must consider convection and radiation. This is more of a black art and really needs to be done empirically rather than calculated. What length of 1mm wall section do you have? How much wattage is conducting up that break? Brass for the nozzle is for a couple of small factors - It machines much more easily for tiny holes, and the finish is less "burry" and more smooth, which makes a real difference when you want a quality exit orifice. The other is that aluminium nozzles have a very low specific heat capacity - you actually want to store some heat, for sudden extrusion bursts where melting lots of plastic sucks out heat and for keeping a smooth temperature when fans and airflow are involved. When you have a fast moving head like in an UM then you are always experiencing significant airflow. We did experiment quite a bit, and look at the results others are getting with various nozzle orifice geometries. Our lead in angle is largely dictated by the angle of the drill bit tip - there is some room for adjustment here, but not significantly so. The main thing to get right is the ratio of diameter to length. You need to induce laminar flow in the fluid plastic for nice results, which requires length to be at least 2x orifice diameter. The other consideration here is ease of flow/backpressure versus oozing/dripping. We went for 2.4x diameter for a length of 1mm which gives a nice balance between all these factors. am001: We are still trying to find an appropriate push fit coupler - its not so much about gripping the PFA tubing firmly, more about having a smooth/chamfered internal path for the filament that doesn't catch as you are feeding in the filament in for the first time. I am quite happy that this will function just fine inside a heated chamber when printing ABS - probably to around 70C but that is just a guess. I am quite certain that your design will work just fine if you add a stainless steel break with a constriction on it. Force cooling with the fan and the angled duct should work just fine - with a good break you really don't have much heat to dissapate and your heatsink is very good, so the need for airflow is low. I do agree with snowygrouch that using a small diameter fan that is pointing in the right direction. The fan can be a little higher than the heatsink so it doesn't come lower than the nozzle, and use a duct to direct all the flow downward. Chopmeister: Thank you so much for your order! I really look forward to seeing what kind of solution you come up with for getting it onto your UM. If you come up with something really good we could adopt it 'officially'. In return we could keep you on as a Beta tester of sorts, some free parts to experiment with in the near future. This also goes for anyone else who wants to develop a way of using the UM with this hotend. You help us, we'll support you. Measuring the temp at the top of the heatsink without a fan is a bit of a moot point - if the plastic is past it's heat deflection temperature above the stainless steel break it WILL jam as it deforms into the join between the heatsink and aluminium. It's not a matter of protecting the components in the head from heat, it's about keeping the plastic filament stiff until the last moment. I imagine that you could just about get away with printing ABS without a fan. Especially on an ultimaker with fast movement of the head inducing airflow - but you will experience some decreased performance. Calinb: It is a bit of a shame, but the reality is that you need to keep weight down, and the hotend already has a heatsink that is much more effective per unit weight than the plate is. It therefore makes sense to remove it. The idea of putting a force cooled sink on the plate and then mounting a stainless break right to the plate has merit though - we have done just the same thing on a Mendel90 RepRap with an aluminium X-Carriage. Being that there is some real interest I will accelerate sorting out a bowden coupled version of this hotend, and a printable way of mounting it. Does anyone know of good pneufit couplers that allow filament to pass smoothly through them? Regards, Sanjay from E3D
  21. Hi all, Lars, I typed out a really detailed reply about all our thermodynamic design justifications etc the day before yesterday. But it seems to have been lost. Argh. Will get back to ALL the questions in this post within a few hours, must dash to the post office to get orders out now though! Sanjay
  22. Hi all, Sanjay from E3D here - I do all the engineering design etc for the Hotends. We have just released our V4 Hotend, which is still all metal, still actively cooled, but is simpler, stronger and more effective in almost all respects. (Not show is the fan and printed fan coupler - you can see this and more pictures on our site: http://www.e3d-online.com ) We can reach over 300C without any real issue, the limiting factor is the thermistor we use, a thermocouple that you guys already have solves this problem, making much higher temperatures possible. Our hotend has an extremely sharp thermal transition, filament entering the hotend remains at ambient temp, right until it gets to the stainless steel thermal break, here it transitions from ambient to 200C or so in around 2mm. This gives really precise immediate and responsive flow of extrudate. Alaris2 posted in another thread about fitting our older V3 design to an ultimaker, he had to make some mods but managed it in the end, with good looking results. Our new V4 Hotend is out now, it is primarily designed for repraps etc, and uses a groovemount type fitting. This is great for repraps, but we really want to get you guys printing awesome plastics like polycarbonate and nylon on your ultimakers. It's not too hard a task to make some mods so we can get you guys some sort of solution that works out of the box, but I don't have an ultimaker to test/develop on so I would like to throw some ideas around and see what you guys think. We can add a pneumatic push-fit coupler that is screwed into the top of the heatsink so that your bowden tube can go right into the top of the aluminium heatsink and be held there firmly solving the popped bowden tube problem once and for all - that is easy enough. the trickier part would be mounting. My proposal is to replace the aluminium plate and laser cut part 8A with a printed part which would hold our hotend firmly to the ultimaker extruder head, this combined with pneumatic push-fit tubing couplers should provide a rock-solid super easy drop-in solution. The mounting part can be printed in PLA without any problems, no heat ever gets up there to cause problems with our actively cooled design. But before we prototype/develop/release I wanted to see what you guys think, if you have any suggestions, and is this something you would be interested in buying? We have a long track-record of integrating features suggested by community and customers and would like to know what you, our customer want in a hotend. Cheers, Sanjay
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