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foehnsturm last won the day on April 27

foehnsturm had the most liked content!

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About foehnsturm

  • Birthday 09/15/1964

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    Ultimaker 2 Mark2
    Ultimaker 3
    Ultimaker Original
    self-built corexy

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  1. foehnsturm

    Another take on ringing

    Printed at 50mm/s, 30mm/s jerk; bottom half: 20mm square, top half: same square with tiny bulging / ringing corrections. Could a slicer or even a post-processing plugin apply those corrections to the path in a generic way? I think yes!
  2. foehnsturm

    Another take on ringing

    Well, at and least in theory, you could counteract against the ringing with smarter slicing. If you know the resonance frequency / wavelength, the slicer could alter the path in a way that e.g. at at corner it stops the moving axis like 0.1mm earlier to compensate for the belt stretch and then add this 0.1mm to the axis position again after half of the resonance wavelength to compensate the back swing / contraction of the belt.
  3. foehnsturm

    Another take on ringing

    Here is what I found so far: The resonance (ringing) frequency of my UM3 is around 26 hz; corner bulging and ringing is affected by wall speed and jerk; you can mostly ignore acceleration, as (at least with usual settings) it happens in a different time scale. As commonly known, the bulging happens due to overpressure in the hotend. This will inevitably (pressure advance algotrithms could probably help here) build up when printing with more than very modest speed (like 20-30mm/s). "Slow" deceleration doesn't help to release the pressure, because our "slow" like 500mm/s2 or even 100mm/s2 is way too fast. Deceleration still happens in a timescale of less than 0.1 sec, which is one or two magnitudes too fast to show any helpful effect on the extrusion system. So, if you want to print with more than very low speed, you're like going downhill in a car with very weak breaks. If you want to go fast straight you have also to corner fast: I got the same perfect, almost bulging-free pre-cornering surface with standard 20/5 speed/jerk as with 50/30. With a speed-jerk difference above 20 the bulging starts, irrespective of acceleration (tried from 100 mm/s2 to 2000mm/s2). But fast direction changes will produce ringing after the corner. The printhead and the belts form kind of a resonating mass-spring system. The amount of "bad" energy stored there, again monstly depends on the speed difference between the two adjacent paths, which is defined by the jerk setting. However, there's is some positve effect (less stored ernergy) when decelerating very slowly but this is ruined by the increased bulging. The ringing may possibly be reduced by some kind of hardware measures for low frequency damping. E.g. somehow decouple the belt vibrations from the printhead. Another approach, which could show some positive effect, is to measure the ringing frequency (print speed / distance between the ripples) and find a specific deceleration rate as explained in the Duet3D forum. Left (standard): wall speed 20/30mm, acceleration 500/1000, jerk 5/10 | 30 min Right: wall speed 40/50, acceleration 526/789, jerk 20/20 | 22 min
  4. I check if I can do a test on the UM3 with 0.6
  5. To my experience with different nozzle sizes, it's - unfortunately - almost impossible to compare different sizes. It's not just the reduced resolution with bigger nozzles, but the entire extrusion system loses some controllability, especially with 0.8 and above.
  6. could you share a link to your test part file (stl, step)?
  7. foehnsturm

    Another take on ringing

    Could a few people share short (ideally < 1hr) real life prints where they experienced serious ringing issues with the UM3 and the settings they used? Or the other way round, prints that suffered from the massive reduction of accelleration and jerk (rounded corners etc.) I'm testing a UM3 mod and the usual ringing tests show some improvement. But real life prints might be a whole different story.
  8. As for the material question.Its operation temperature should provide a reasonable safety margin to the bed temperature you are typically using. E.g. if you print ABS with the bed at 100°C you should look for something with a really high softening point. Other requirements are not that demanding, but as the magnets are glued, the material should work well with serious glue.
  9. @3dprinting_guy, for an UM2GO with the old black feeder you would have to design an adapter. Not sure about the firmware (@tinkergnome ?).
  10. Hi guys, holdays are over here now. Any experiences with the sensor to share so far? @cjs, @conny_g, @fbrc8-erin, @Dim3nsioneer, @jffry7
  11. Super nice.👍 I already knew, you're well very organized person. 😉
  12. A hall effect encoder instead of the AMT is doable but would require to attach a magnetic target to the shaft and some kind of mount and housing for the PCB. The encoder you are linking to seems to be discontinued, I'm not sure if there is a newer alternative which provides the same interface.
  13. foehnsturm

    Mark2 Firmware

    Thank you. I made some corrections. There's no separate "mark2 for Ultimaker2 Extended" definition. I think the only important thing the Extended defintion files are overriding is the machine_height setting.
  14. foehnsturm

    Mark2 Firmware

    It should be there somewhere but I had no luck with a quick search. So: Tinker-Mark2-dual -> Standard UM2(+) Mark2 but without the tiny Mark2 PCB Tinker-Mark2-expansion-board -> UM2(+) Mark2 with the Mark2 PCB --- extended --- > same for UM2(+) Extended printers I assume you don't have the PCB as you had to extend cables.

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