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Everything posted by foehnsturm

  1. So now it's: @Nomo @gr5 @Scrat82 @deisengard (3 units) Almost a reasonable number. However due to holiday season here the new estimated shipping would be late August.
  2. With "gets stuck" do you mean the filament can't be moved anymore or the filament keeps moving but the sensor gear doesn't turn (sensor wheels slipping)?
  3. But to me this looks pretty ok. Sensor wheel turns as long as the filament moves. However there some moments when I hear the feeder turning (I think) but nothing moves.
  4. PM with shipping address so far: @Nomo @gr5 (new) Other guys, come on! I need a little more feedback to place the parts order.
  5. @danyetman, @planeflake, @Ramzes777, @Scrat82, @reprogue, @Nomo Some news: Estimated shipping: early June Price, including shipping: € 75 / US$ 88 Shippping: tracked DHL shipping Please send a PM with your contact details.
  6. orders currently: @danyetman @planeflake @Ramzes777 @Scrat82 (3 items) @reprogue @Nomo
  7. Hey guys, Thanks for collecting orders 👍 I'll see how long manufacturing a next batch will take and keep you posted.
  8. I've one kit available at the moment. First come first serve 😉 Manufacturing a new batch would require at least 5 binding orders. And no, no news about a UM3 integration unfortunately.
  9. Sorry guys! The original images seem to be gone forever. However I took some new ones. Hope this helps.
  10. Hi Flowbey, That looks pretty neat.👍 I used a heated bed with a solid state relay on the UMO with no issues, so I would not expect any problems on the UM2.
  11. Hi, Glad to have you here. Please check the power budget settings and search for that topic here. This is a rather common issue and, due to individual hardware variations, the solution is not perfectly straightforward but a requires some tinkering.
  12. @laverda @henry-tong @Ace1992 @wimismith @3dprinting_guy @Ramzes777 Please send me a PM with your address details and add a remark if you want more than one sensor.
  13. Update, you guys want one: @laverda @henry-tong @Ace1992 @wimismith @3dprinting_guy @Ramzes777 Correct? I'm going to order parts by the end of next week.
  14. Hey guys, sorry for not beeing responsive lately. So, currently interested: @laverda @wimismith @3dprinting_guy Please feel free to correct or add yourself to the list.
  15. Printed at 50mm/s, 30mm/s jerk; bottom half: 20mm square, top half: same square with tiny bulging / ringing corrections. Could a slicer or even a post-processing plugin apply those corrections to the path in a generic way? I think yes!
  16. Well, at and least in theory, you could counteract against the ringing with smarter slicing. If you know the resonance frequency / wavelength, the slicer could alter the path in a way that e.g. at at corner it stops the moving axis like 0.1mm earlier to compensate for the belt stretch and then add this 0.1mm to the axis position again after half of the resonance wavelength to compensate the back swing / contraction of the belt.
  17. Here is what I found so far: The resonance (ringing) frequency of my UM3 is around 26 hz; corner bulging and ringing is affected by wall speed and jerk; you can mostly ignore acceleration, as (at least with usual settings) it happens in a different time scale. As commonly known, the bulging happens due to overpressure in the hotend. This will inevitably (pressure advance algotrithms could probably help here) build up when printing with more than very modest speed (like 20-30mm/s). "Slow" deceleration doesn't help to release the pressure, because our "slow" like 500mm/s2 or even 100mm/s2 is way too fast. Deceleration still happens in a timescale of less than 0.1 sec, which is one or two magnitudes too fast to show any helpful effect on the extrusion system. So, if you want to print with more than very low speed, you're like going downhill in a car with very weak breaks. If you want to go fast straight you have also to corner fast: I got the same perfect, almost bulging-free pre-cornering surface with standard 20/5 speed/jerk as with 50/30. With a speed-jerk difference above 20 the bulging starts, irrespective of acceleration (tried from 100 mm/s2 to 2000mm/s2). But fast direction changes will produce ringing after the corner. The printhead and the belts form kind of a resonating mass-spring system. The amount of "bad" energy stored there, again monstly depends on the speed difference between the two adjacent paths, which is defined by the jerk setting. However, there's is some positve effect (less stored ernergy) when decelerating very slowly but this is ruined by the increased bulging. The ringing may possibly be reduced by some kind of hardware measures for low frequency damping. E.g. somehow decouple the belt vibrations from the printhead. Another approach, which could show some positive effect, is to measure the ringing frequency (print speed / distance between the ripples) and find a specific deceleration rate as explained in the Duet3D forum. Left (standard): wall speed 20/30mm, acceleration 500/1000, jerk 5/10 | 30 min Right: wall speed 40/50, acceleration 526/789, jerk 20/20 | 22 min
  18. I check if I can do a test on the UM3 with 0.6
  19. To my experience with different nozzle sizes, it's - unfortunately - almost impossible to compare different sizes. It's not just the reduced resolution with bigger nozzles, but the entire extrusion system loses some controllability, especially with 0.8 and above.
  20. could you share a link to your test part file (stl, step)?
  21. Could a few people share short (ideally < 1hr) real life prints where they experienced serious ringing issues with the UM3 and the settings they used? Or the other way round, prints that suffered from the massive reduction of accelleration and jerk (rounded corners etc.) I'm testing a UM3 mod and the usual ringing tests show some improvement. But real life prints might be a whole different story.
  22. As for the material question.Its operation temperature should provide a reasonable safety margin to the bed temperature you are typically using. E.g. if you print ABS with the bed at 100°C you should look for something with a really high softening point. Other requirements are not that demanding, but as the magnets are glued, the material should work well with serious glue.
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