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foehnsturm

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Everything posted by foehnsturm

  1. ... some progress. Learned how to print reliable with PLA HT and finished the first dock.
  2. Well, I think my contributions would be unofficial because not printed on a UM 8) Anyway, one attempt before @Labern might show us all how it's done ...
  3. Exactly the same setup. I want to use the "old" worm gear print heads for 3 mm filament on the corexy as well. Speed and mass inertia are no problem. The print head only fell down twice in the beginning when there was heavy over-extrusion and it caught a raised edge.
  4. ... finally, a boat. Quality is fairly good, so it's time to return to the actual topic of this thread ...
  5. No dedicated guides, the only thing with flanges are the pulleys and there are washers between the idlers in the opposite corners. I tried to level the belt path as good as possible.
  6. As far as I remember I paid approx 50 € per rail incl. sliding block (Misumi) No more prints atm. Just printing the printhead again on the UM with PLA HT for better temperature resistance. Dual? Puh - still some way to go. I want to incorporate the tool changing logics (no gcode post-processing anymore, just want to set tool offsets and use T0, T1, the printer then should perform the required movements and priming/wiping routines on its own.) into smoothieware.
  7. It's a printed part, a laser cut aluminum part (will change to steel because of the threaded holes), some bolts and ball bearings. The attachment of the x-rail is questionable. No issues so far but might be too fragile in the long run. And it needs a cable guidance.
  8. Oh yes, I am. After two years with 3D printing, my feeling is that sometimes I know what I'm doing.
  9. ... almost heat resistant: sugru.com. Not rated for that temperature but withstanding it quite well.
  10. I'm happy. Holes are M5. Bed and z-axis are working very well. Some ringing due to quite aggressive acceleration and junction_deviation (Marlin : jerk) settings I suppose.
  11. Seems to print. Looks like the robot is starting to get bored as he hunches his shoulders now ...
  12. @Labern, will do that. The wiring is a mess. @Skimmy, thanks! No resistors needed? Smoothieboard only does PWM as far as I know. However the frequency is adjustable. But as the corresponding variable is measures in milliseconds, I doubt it will do more than 1 kHz.
  13. I strongly suspect that. It's a 13:50 reduction now (1:4.6)
  14. BTW, for anyone looking for gear wheels with less than 18 teeth (module 0.5) with a 5 mm bore (which I found quite hard to source): link
  15. Ok, this pancake stepper definitely needs a fan. But the whole print head would become quite bulky then. So I made my own drive wheel / gear combo. The new gearbox will be 18 mm instead of 30 mm in thickness.
  16. Thanks a lot. Would be definitely worth a try. I just connected the fan (conrad.de, brand x-fan) to an adjustable power supply. In fact, it runs from 12V down to 3V and even starts with a voltage as low as that.
  17. Well electrical engineering was my minor subject at the university. But I hardly remember a thing ... The fan I'm using on the UMO has a start voltage of 8V (max 12V). Does this mean anything regarding the controllability?
  18. it's only a workaround. I want to use a pwm-able crossflow fan. But it's 130 bucks and earliest possible delivery mid November.
  19. Alive ... The cooling system (and the wiring and, and ...) still needs some work to be done ;-)
  20. I'll keep an eye on this I'd love to have a laser tool head for the new printer. And smoothieware already has a working laser module.
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