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xenopaul

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Posts posted by xenopaul

  1. Well it looks like you printed lots and lots of support. Not sure why infill is 60% when it could be 15%. Could you please go to cura, load settings by loading the gcode, then save the settings and post?

    Like this?

    [profile]

    filament_diameter = 3

    nozzle_size = 0.4

    wall_thickness = 0.8

    retraction_enable = True

    layer_height = 0.1

    solid_layer_thickness = 0.6

    fill_density = 20

    print_speed = 50

    print_temperature = 220

    support = Exterior Only

    enable_raft = False

    filament_density = 1.00

    skirt_line_count = 1

    skirt_gap = 3.0

    retraction_min_travel = 5.0

    retraction_speed = 40.0

    retraction_amount = 4.5

    retraction_extra = 0.0

    travel_speed = 150

    max_z_speed = 3.0

    bottom_layer_speed = 20

    cool_min_layer_time = 5

    fan_enabled = True

    bottom_thickness = 0.3

    object_sink = 0.0

    enable_skin = False

    plugin_config =

    model_matrix = 1.6,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.6,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.6

    gcode_extension = gcode

    alternative_center =

    cool_min_feedrate = 10

    fan_layer = 1

    fan_speed = 100

    fan_speed_max = 100

    retract_on_jumps_only = True

    solid_top = True

    force_first_layer_sequence = True

    extra_base_wall_thickness = 0.0

    infill_type = Line

    fill_overlap = 15

    sequence = Loops > Perimeter > Infill

    hop_on_move = False

    joris = False

    raft_base_material_amount = 100

    raft_interface_material_amount = 100

    raft_margin = 5

    support_dual_extrusion = False

    support_rate = 50

    support_distance = 0.5

    bridge_speed = 100

    [alterations]

    start.gcode = ;Sliced {filename} at: {day} {date} {time}

    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}

    ;Print time: {print_time}

    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g

    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}

    G21 ;metric values

    G90 ;absolute positioning

    M107 ;start with the fan off

    G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops

    G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops

    G1 Z15.0 F{max_z_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm

    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length

    G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock

    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again

    G1 F{travel_speed}

    M117 Printing...

    support_end.gcode =

    support_start.gcode =

    cool_end.gcode =

    cool_start.gcode =

    replace.csv =

    end.gcode = ;End GCode

    M104 S0 ;extruder heater off

    M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)

     

    G91 ;relative positioning

    G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure

    G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more

    G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way

     

    M84 ;steppers off

    G90 ;absolute positioning

     

     

     

  2. Hi guys.

    Last time you heard from me I was starting my wonderful journey into printing which has gone really well so far and I've managed to produce a few of my kits for prop collectors who follow me on Facebook.

    As a 3d modeller myself I know how to prepare models for games and export but I discovered it is definitely not the same for 3d printing.

    I'll point out the obvious first I know the model should be watertight, learnt this from running my own Shapeways store for 6 months. I also know that flipped normals, manifold edges and other mesh problems can make it a disaster.

    My question is why did this model from Thingiverse use up 3.5 metres of my filament and take 5 hours to print when She is only 8cm in length?

    942166_373695929418429_359369898_n.jpg

    Here's my Cura settings for that particular piece.

    Nozzle: 0.8

    Layer height: 1.0

    top/bottom layer: 0.6

    inside fill: 0.6

    Support: External only

    No heated bed

    Single extruder

    Filament diameter: 3mm

    Colour Silver

    You guys have been great btw. If it wasn't for you I wouldn't be up and running

    so I trust you can identify the problem in an instant. :grin:

    Paul

     

  3. I have my nozzle set exactly where I want it but I don't understand. You're all saying something different do I adjust the four screws or somehow access the switch from the inside? Sorry but once this is sorted the only posts you should be getting from me are my printed projects ;)

    Paul

     

  4. I edited my post above to correctly indicate that you only need to hook it up to a computer if you don't have an Ulticontroller - the thought sort of died in mid sentence in the original post.

     

    I went to print again and on the first layer the head dragged it and ripped it all apart. I did everything that you said. The only part I didn't get was "and then slowly move the head to just touch the bed, and then adjust the z limit switch so it is just triggered in that position" is there a physical switch or is this on the ulticontroller? :???:

    Paul

     

  5. First check whether the bed is seated correctly on the springs, and that the washers that the bed sits on aren't crooked. or caught in the keyhole slots in the bed.

    Once the bed is seated properly on the springs, you can set about releveling it by adjusting the screws in the corners. Instructions assume you have an UltiController - hook the printer up to your computer and use Cura, pronterface or other software to drive it.

     

    Heat the head first, in case there's any plastic oozed out of the end. Then do prepare -> autohome. This will move the bed until the z-stop is just triggered. The head should be touching the bed, or very close to it, and the four bed levelling screws should be in a middle position such that there is room to both tighten and unscrew them by several turns, and the underside of the head of each screw remains in contact with the bed. If not, adjust the screws so that they are in that position, and then slowly move the head to just touch the bed, and then adjust the z limit switch so it is just triggered in that position. Then autohome again.

     

    Then prepare -> release steppers (is that what it's called?) so you can move the head by hand. And move the head by hand to near the each of the screws in turn. In each case you should just be able to slip sheet of paper between the head and the bed.

     

    Tighten the screw until the head doesn't catch the piece of paper at all as you move the paper back and forth. Then slowly turn the screw out, until it the paper just starts to catch on the head. Then add an extra 1/8 turn outwards, to raise the bed just a bit more. Repeat that in each corner of the bed. Then go back to the first corner, and make sure it's still ok. Keep gong around until all 4 corners are just catching the paper.

     

    Again brilliant advice and so easy to follow. You guys rock :D

    Paul

     

  6. The price for the wear and tear of the ultimaker and your time is probably

    much higher than the price of the materials. Plus it may take you 2 or 3

    tries to get it right.

     

    I'm not sure if we are allowed to put links here but if you check my website link you can follow the progress. Thanks guys ;)

    Paul

     

  7. Hi guys I moved my ultimaker to another part of the house during renovations and when I returned it to the desk the bed level is out. It's not the table as I have a spirit level on the top of my machine. Is there a quick and accurate way to get my print

    bed back to the default it was when it arrived. I did a test print and the first layer was destroyed by the head dragging it :O

    Sorry if this has been asked before I'm new :p

    Paul

     

  8. Hi guys.

    I've had my Ultimaker for only a week now and having so much fun. Just got a huge commision for a cosplay piece it's a Hawkeye's quiver from the Avengers and is 1/1 scale.

    I was wondering how I estimate the cost to quote the client. I saw something in preferences about KG but what is the standard length of a roll of PLA for UM? Is there an easy formula for working this out? :???:

    Paul

     

  9.  

    No. Heater wires should be screwed in. Try pulling on the two cables gently. One wire will probably slip out. Put it back in and tighten it down better. You should be familiar with the web pages that talk about assembly as you can refer to them if you want to take apart your UM or learn more about it. Here's the heater wire part:

    http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Mounting_the_electronics#Step_4:_Connecting_the_Heater

    Thanks. Do I unscrew the panel that says "do not remove while power on"? As mine came assembled It was built by the Ultimaker team I expect that this isn't the problem. Could it have happened in transit? Norway to the UK is a long way :O

    I'm getting a bit concerned now as it obviously printed before being sent.

    Thanks guys :)

    Paul

     

     

    It worked! There was one white wire out so I trimmed it and installed it in the terminals. Thanks so much to you both :D

    Paul

     

  10. No. Heater wires should be screwed in. Try pulling on the two cables gently. One wire will probably slip out. Put it back in and tighten it down better. You should be familiar with the web pages that talk about assembly as you can refer to them if you want to take apart your UM or learn more about it. Here's the heater wire part:

    http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Mounting_the_electronics#Step_4:_Connecting_the_Heater

    Thanks. Do I unscrew the panel that says "do not remove while power on"? As mine came assembled It was built by the Ultimaker team I expect that this isn't the problem. Could it have happened in transit? Norway to the UK is a long way :O

    I'm getting a bit concerned now as it obviously printed before being sent.

    Thanks guys :)

    Paul

     

  11. Hi guys I posted this in my welcome note but thought it would be more practical here.

    Basically I recieved my ultimaker 2 days ago and all was great it was assembled and there were samples on the print bed. Naturally I wanted to print a demo so loaded my PLA and secured it, navigated to the Ulticontroller's preheat PLA and sat back and waited. ...and waited ... The temp didn't rise and it displayed 25 / 000 where there is meant to be 25 / 180.

    I took some pics of the bottom as I noticed that the heater plug was missing is this normal? :???:

    301937_366538120134210_1052198627_n.jpg

    562426_366538166800872_2067048308_n.jpg

    Any help would be great as I'm dying to try out my new toy and it's been a while now :-P

    Paul

     

  12. Which doesn't solve the 'Why doesn't the preheat command work?' question.... but will at least get you printing :smile:

     

    Thanks. I tried just clicking print and it raised the bed to home position and stopped. I waited but the temp didn't rise, which is

    weird as my UM arrived with printed items on the bed. Hope it's not a wire loose as I wouldn't know where to start lol

    Paul

     

  13. Hi to all from not so sunny Southampton.

    I got my Ultimaker yesterday assembled and I love it.

    59770_365388980249124_400891257_n.jpg

    I have one small problem though I know it's something probably mentioned here already. When I turn it on the Ulticontroller is lit the fan is going and the card is inserted. I also have my PLA installed and secured.

    I wanted to print the test robot demo just to see it in action but my temp reads "25 / 000" I went to preheat PLA and it doesn't rise just makes a short hiss sound and then stays on 25 / 000.

    Can anyone tell me how to preheat my PLA for a print? Once I get that working I can start playing with Cura ;)

    All in all if this is the only teething problem I'm happy with my unit and can't wait to print :)

    Paul

     

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