ascanio

I think I had a clog. I recleaned it all and now if I manually extrude I get "expected extrusion" (while I used to get a really slow one before). Now I am able to print nicely over previously printed layers but things goes bad while printing on air (by on air i mean also when crossing lines printing the infill..) I have no idea why.... Temp 255 speed 20-40 height .1 .2

I found theese two videos: http://www.3dfuture.com.au/2012/01/3d-printing-bridges-across-gaps/ One does a perfect bridge but it doesn't seem to be using abs, second is good as well... I am printing with an UM original (self assembled) and I get "decent" prints as long as I print the next layer right upon a previous one but I get really bad bridging, even really small ones (1cm) so I was looking for a way to improve it... It seems as they have special bridge-printing techinique while cura doesn't seem to have much. So I thought I should try a new slicer, but the problem is I never ever set up anything for cura (only layer height, speed and temp) so I don't know what all the other parameters actually means... But I guess there are many of you getting cura to print, at least the smallest, right. My settings (UM-shop abs): temp 255 speed from 20 to 40 layer from .1 to .2 Main problem is filamnet doesn't extrude "in the air" but only while touching previous layers.... Any suggestion?

I have serious underextrusion problem I can't fix: I've raised temp to the max (260) slowed down print speed to 20 (which is veeeeeery slow. I mean Ultimaker says it can print up to 150, I just wish I was able to reach 40....) and increased flow (but it doesn't make any real difference). Even though, abs filament extruded feels "cold". It's not that soft and it doesn nicely melt with previous layers... so as pla used to... I am using ultimaker stock abs. Is it possible it's due to the filament? I heard sometimes it's just it... because people seem to be able to print abs with UM but I guess they don't suffer of such underextrusion and print so slowly either.... I am trying to clean the hot end with acetone ( the one is used on nails.. I hope is the same) https://www.dropbox.com/s/e5kyqdcazm238xp/IMG_20140411_153108.jpg Edit cleaning did not work. I also unmounted the hotend put that on my kitchen fire and cleaned it but it did'n work. When I put it back filament first extruded brown, then white and then underextruded. Extrusion by hand is really hard and filament does't come out of the hot end vertically but always curve to one side of the hot end, suggesting there is something blocking part of the path...

To "clean" the nozzle i just unmounted the head, heated it, and force-pushed everything that was blocked inside thoruogh it. After that (brown burned fiament extruded. A lot. I always use white) extrusion seemed cleaner. I always used abs since that First layer should be a levelling issue. It worked great with pla but I am extruding way less abs then I used with pla so same settings may feel different. Anyway the main problemjis that the new extruded layer (strating with the second) doesn't stick to the previous one nicely and I feel i suffer of underextrusion. For now I have raised tmp and flow, lowerd speed... I'll do some more test and post results. Anyway this topic has no sense anymore, I'll post on an oder one so as to keep ordered. Sorry for the mess

I have just realized I was using pla instead of abs, which explains everything... I changed the filament and now all abs realted problem are showing again..... Filament not sticking to bed properly, but only a couple of times, randomly, so that a big mess comes up. I aslo notice extrusion is not as fast as I would expect whe I force it.... I have just finished cleaning everything since I thought I had a clog and REFUSE to think I got another one after 20 minutes... New nozzle temp 250 (I am afraid of getting to the limit) Abs filmanet is from ultimaker shop... In this picture you can see an attempt to buid the ultimaker robot logo with brim......... https://www.dropbox.com/s/n9h0ilbh2t8mu3k/IMG_20140410_131832.jpg

I will try brim and relevelling the bad. Maybe also buy abs glue but i am afraid of building a heatchamber... My stepper motors gets really really hot while printing, already... So adding heat scares me of breaking them... I am printing ar only 235 c because I noticed that if i raised temp (experimented up to 255) rhe filament extruded is so soft that the whole object stays soft and it is a problem if you are building support or trying to "expand" the layer in the air. I would love being able to print at hogher temperature (also so as to increase my printing speed) but don't know how..

This happened to me. I used to have more mintemp error and it was due to a loose connection on the cable right in the clip that goes on that microchip over the exteuder... Be carefull my priter ended up pretty bad. I melted the peek insulator which is really bad.... Before melting it I noticed black melted burned plastic over the heatblock. I think it was the peek starting to melt...

I've finally managed to start experimenting abs after a lot of issues... So here is my new one. First layer sticks to bed nicely. 0 warping. It would be really great if it weren't for a thing: after a couple of layers (20 -30 minutes since I print pretty slowly / 0.5 cm height I would say) the object "stops" staying attached to the heatbed and therefore as the extruder head touches it it start moving around on the platform... It didn't happen with smaller object (eg the UM robot logo) but is always happening with flat larger object... My settings: speed 35 head 235 bed 110 (That's what is set. I really doubt is really 110 and is, of course, much less the further from the centre) flow 110 filament size 2.9 no fan Any idea to have it stay sticked to platform even after half an hour?

It worked! bowden is a bit ruined and scraped but the "holder" seems to hold it anyway. My problem now is that after a while, when stil printing, the object doesn't remain attached to the heatbed (110 theorically) so the whole print (wich was going well) is ruined and pushed around the build platform by the extruder, still thinking it's printing on soething.... But i guess i should opena new topic for a different problem..

Now i did more tests: - No fan - bed 110 - nozzle 250 and 260 but i noticed i have a problem with extrusion: it seems as the filament hasn't a smooth way through the extruder: while moving manually the extrusion gear ( and during prints having it moved by the stepper) the bowden tube is being pushed up instead of having the filmant smoothly go through the extruder, as if it had a hard way. Picture: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fa7kp83g5zgmr88/IMG_20140321_121530.jpg In the pic bowden is no more visible because It has benn pushed up a little If i manually extrude and keep the bowden down it has a nice extrusion but it fells like it's limited: if I try to extrude very fast it still goes slow..

https://www.dropbox.com/s/amoekqu7fzuyxzm/20140311_180538.jpg Hope this one works

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ygk0nmntdc6p2t/20140311_180538.jpg As you can see the way to extrude has compleetly blocked. How do i clean this? EDIT it is pla

After others tries i think the problem is not underextruding, but it is that new layers don't stick on previous ones. Becouse if I go to prepare, move axis, 1 mm, extruder, and extrude a bit it does extrude with no problem already at 230 degrees. After the print fails i usually take my z level down a bit to remove the priint and in the mean while some abs still extrude out of the extruder. So probably the problem is that filament sticks to heatbed but not on other filament. Is it possible? EDIT After other experiment i managed to have a final print. Here's a picture of it https://www.dropbox.com/s/j3fqakd7yz43u6x/20140301_170220.jpg As you can see extrusion was randomly non regular, and overall quality really really really bad... I can't understand the reason of it.. Printed at 240, 110 heatbed, 125 flow ratio...

Wen up to 250 and no fan. No significant improvement...

I've just moved to ABS after building my own Heatbed, but I can't print: first layer goes nice and smooth, the abs stick to the bed really well, but as soon as it goes to the 2nd layer it stop layering those "nice lines of abs" but it drops little bobbles, as underextruding, and by the 3st and fourth layer, becouse of that, it starts printing in the air, and it doesn't even extrude... Print fails. Any idea? Heatbed temp 110 extruder 230-235 (still testing) Ultimaker bought this early summer

240 as abs should melt. Also tried 250 once but not for more then a little becouse I was afraid of overheting the whole extruder

I was trying my first attempt at abs printing after I have installed my custom heatbed, but it did't start extruding. The filament was blocked inside the extruder (i guess in the nozzle part) This used to happen to me sometimes with pla. I used to normally heat the nozzle, pull out the filament with a little strenght, cut the ruined end of it, put it back again and then manually extrude a bit to "clean" everything out. It worked. But now the abs filament is litterally blocked, and after heating i can't pull it out, nor push it to try to melt the blocked part. It is justa blocked. How do I clean it out? Thanks

Ok so i leave all the settings as I find them, select the thermistor and i am done? What about the ulticontroller I have, any other setting to set? (I see there is a hardware section) I see it generates a hex file for you. So it means I don't have to manually compile it? But i can just use that one?

Hello everybody I've just built my heatbed for my UM1 the relay way ando now need to upgrade my firmwar in order to have it go... I have never done any firmware operation ever so i am really new to this I found this interesting topic http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1948-how-to-configure-marlin-firmware-yourself-heated-print-bed-problem/ About configuring Merlin for heatbed, but did'nt understand a couple of thing: What are the changes needed in the configuration header? (I have downloaded the ultimaker's fork on github) I see you have to set the motherboard type (7) #ifndef MOTHERBOARD #define MOTHERBOARD 7 #endif and the thermistor type, but here it comes the first problem: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 #ifndef TEMP_SENSOR_1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #endif #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0 Which one has to be defined with my thermistor number? (the bed one seems the most obvious but u never know..)?? I also see there is a cnfiguration builder: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com But i have no idea what all theese options mean. I just want my UM to work as good as before, but support the Heatbed (btw I have the ulticontroller...) Any way let's say I have my config file (and what about the advanced configuration, do I need to change them as well??) HOW DO YOU COMPILE? I understood you want to have a final hex file and upload that to your UM via cura, but how do i get it out of it? I didn't understant the compiling you have to do with the arduino IDE, nor the "make" command-line. Any easy way to do it? EDIT I found here an easy step-to-step guide for compiling Merlin firmware http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/ Thank you very much

Yea but why no maxtemp error? and why no mintemp after the connections of theextruder head had pulled out? EDIT I tried to submit a support ticket but the "submit ticket" button didn't do anything...

The situation has degenerated really (really) badly... The last completed print was already not that good, with several horizontal "lines" as in this picture (bottom part, the picture doesn't show them all but trust me they are annoying) When I went checking my last print the head was destroyed. By destroyed i mean melted and never to use again. Here a pic: I found the printer still printing, mid air without extruding. the top of the head was all messed up, I think this happened because the feeder kept feeding pla but the printer couldn't extrude. I think that the pla filament might have pushed the melted head and therefore break it and bend it like in the picture. anyway it also caused the tube to go out of place and the thermocouple to disconnect but still no mintemp error and the printer kept worknig... here a pic: The object i was printing was distorted and melted. It smelled like burned sugar I am really disappointed with what happened. Really. I am gonna have to spend a lot of money to get the melted pieces (+ shipping) and I am not a rich guy, and it's also gonna couse a big delay on my schedule. Since I don't wanna this to happen EVER again I would like to at least understand how that was possible, and what might have coused it..... Anyone?

I am having extruding problem since I started printing: sometimes it works great sometimes it under extrudes and some other times, during long prints (more than 5 hours) you can see looking at the final piece that at some moment extrusion wasn't regulare (you see like an horizontal not-good-extrusion line 1-3 mm thick) I thought the problem was with the feeding, i used to solve not-or-really-under extrusion by removing the filament, cutting the top and let some of it extrude to "clean" the nozzle. Theese times I noticed that the top of the filament had expanded and distorted (so it was really hard to remove it) and I used to think that this was the reason: a sort of a cap preventing extrusion. I recently noticed that over the aluminum heater block there was creating some melted and burned pla. Here is a pic: I cleaned that away but don't understand the reason... By the way is it normal that inserting the filament is so difficult? i always have to shape the top to make it reach the nozzle or it stops just before it, into that white plastic thing the tube end in.

I know many words have been said about adding a heatbed on the UM but and iI think I've read most of it but there are still a couple of things I'm not sure about becouse everybody seems to go in a slightly different way. I have a mk2a pcb which should work at 12v 10 amp or 24v (still 10 amp??) First of all: the relay. The output from the UM is 19v but realys work at 12 or at 24 (almost all of them, (though I found a 18v relay on farnell http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1861593) so some people use a 12v relay (control pin) but it might burn, someone says it works ok and someone else says it burned. Others use a 24v relay but the guy at the store told me 19v might not be enough to activate it... So I guess the only solution is try the 24v and if it doesn't work pray for the 12v one not to burn right? About the other specs I guess they depend on the second power supply I'm gonna use for the mk2a Fly back diodes I couldn't understand if i need to put one (and how) becouse they should already have one in each of the 3 heater circuits right? Second power supply How many watt? Everybody use different solutions and the same solution seems to work with someone and not to work with others. For exemple if I use 12v to power up the mk2a it should draw 10 amp and therefore, as others suggested, I should get a 12v 12-15 amp power supply. But here it doesn't seem to be enough http://flashgamer.com/arduino/comments/mk1-heated-bed-and-different-power-supplies So what do you suggest? I found different 12v power supply at higher wattage (360w) but is it a good solution? is it necessary? I was actually thinking of going with 24v on the mk2 but I couldn't find any suggestion for this configuration (amp drawn, watt ecc.) becouse I guess it is not the same as for the 12v solution... I mean since I increase the volt I should decrease the amp right? Sorry if I wasn't clear but I know almost nothing of electronics, I am just trying to get it work and not burn everything....

I need to print with abs, and the ultimaker should do the job right? Abs needs a heated bed so I was looking for one. Is the PCB heatbed mk1 compatible(http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403)?? Because i would like to purchase a heated bed reather than building my own (though it is propably more expensive). Or do you suggest any other model? PS what is the spare v2 hot end? I Know I should propably open another topic... but forgive me.

In the kit mentioned ( ----> https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultimaker-kits/ultimaker-kit-new.html) I am new to 3d printing. I know i need one, but is it in the kit? Or is it an option? or do i need any specific heated or anyone on the market works? Thanks