Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Hi, Is there anyway to define the "overhang speed" ? Just like infill or wall speed, it would be awesome if you could set the overhang speed, e.g. for an angle > ~60%, reduce the speed while printing. Cheers, Marcus
  2. Hey, I just accidentally threw some white Ultimaker PLA part into acetone, thinking nothing should happen, but behold, it actually smoothed it somewhat! It stuck lightly to the ground of the container when I took it out as well. I was under the impression that acteone should not have any effect on it. Is it maybe the coloring of the filament? The part on the left is untreated, the right one was in acteone, In the second picture you can see the treated part from the other side, that wasn't completly submerged in acteone. You can see a faint line between the top part and the base. It also seems to discolor it slighty into the yellowish. Really strange, anybody know whats going on?
  3. @IRobert: Its about .5mm. @CodeMaven: I'm using a 405nm laser @~100mw. I had to turn it down to ~30mw though, other wise it just obliterated the Photoresist I got the diode from insaneware.de
  4. Hi, I just completed my "PCB Laser exposure" conversion on my Ultimaker. I created a short video about it here: If you are interested in details I'd be happy to provide. Cheers, Mad
  5. Hi Jens, I always use .1 mm layer height for the final prints. I think the most important thing is the bed leveling, you want it paper tight (meaning if you put a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed you need some force to pull it out, so the plastic is spread a little by the nose itself. It gives the best finish in my opinion. Apart from that I use mostly default values. The other thing is the print speed, the slower, the better the result in most cases. I normally set it to 50-100 mm/s, and then use the knob on the printer to tune it up or down depending on how it looks. Cheers, Mad
  6. I was able to greatly improve my results by changing the height between nozzle and bed. Before I had it quite loose, last evening I made it "paper tight" ( Piece of paper under the nozzle, so that it takes some force to move the paper ). Now the surface finish is pretty optimal, but it got a lot harder to remove it from the bed as well. On the left its paper-tight, while the right are my first try's. The case on the left also had supports added as well. I also tried out the project planner for the left case, it worked beautiful. ( Btw. disabling the head fan got rid of the all the curling for the raspberry case, I printed it quite slow anyway )
  7. Yeah, I definitely noticed the warping as well. A friend of mine just closed the front and sides with carton, to keep the temperatur up inside which is supposed to work quite well. I want to play around with the fan as well. I don't really like the idea of the raft, it never seems to peel of nicely and I really like the smooth finish of the under side too much
  8. Thanks for all the tips! To answer your points: 1) I experimented a little with the settings for filament diameter. I started with the 2.89 default ( Cura ) value, went down and up a little but it did not seem to make much of a difference. I also measured the filament, it was betwen 2.9 and 3 mm. 2) I'll research that when I get home. 3) Thats probably it. I noticed that on the corners it gets really smooth, when the head switches direction and has to speed up again. I'll try to print the first few layers with a much lower speed next time. 4) I noticed that the infill gets quite "choppy" with low infill values. Maybe wall thickness is the cause? 5) I used 0.1 layer height, I left the nozzle size on the default value (0.4mm). Wall thickness is also default, 0.8 mm Again, thanks for all your tips!
  9. Hi everyone, I just finished building my ultimaker kit 2 days ago and was eager to start printing. After testing around and virtually no tweaking i went ahead and started the first long print, the owl from thingiverse. I created a simple timelaps of the build: There were only slight slips, and little stringy drops on the steep feathers. I printed in white pla, 220*C, about 100mm/s. also on the back left the fill does not completly reach the outline while it does everywhere else. I also get a criss cross pattern instead of a smooth surface on the fully filled layer( except on the edges, there its very smooth) Maybe someone has a hint on how i can improve it even further? All in all i'm very happy and impressed with the machine. Go ultimaker!
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!