mostlyatomicbob

Morning, Is anyone else experiencing this? When a print finishes the bed lowers and then the UM2 beeps and appears to cycle the power. I am using the latest Cura and Firmware (as of Jan10 2014) It's no big thing, but obviously I don't get the temperature read outs as ithe machine cools. Bob

Ok I am blowing my own trumpet here, but this is the spool holder I designed. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-universal-spool-holder Also I believe that Faberdashery will soon be selling their amazing PLA on spools soon.

I print with the ColorFabb PLA/PHA a fair bit and I have always found it prints better at a higher temp. I use 224-228deg C. I am not saying that is an optimum temp for you but it is typically 6-8deg higher than I print with Ultimaker PLA and 10+ deg higher than Faberdashery PLA. Bob

I had another blockage today. so this time a took a photo for reference. The left piece was the first 'pull' from the nozzle and the right one is the 3rd one.

I had exactly this problem last week.I tried to the heating to 260c a few times but that did not work. I couldn't get any material to feed. So I figured that whatever was blocking the nozzle was bigger than 0.4mm so would never feed out. so here is how I solved it (without taking the whole nozzle apart): Follow the change material process, except do not feed any material back in, just press the dial to follow the process. then remove the bowden tube from the hot end. Heat the nozzle to 220 deg C. Take a piece of filament and feed it by hand into the top of the PEEK as far as you can. now set the temperature to around 90 deg C and whilst it is cooling gently push a pin/needle/0.35mm drill etc up the business end of the nozzle. after the nozzle has cooled to 90deg C wait a couple of minutes and carefully pull the filament back out of the top of the head. I found that the filament came out almost exactly the internal shape of the nozzle and brown bits could be seen in the filament. repeat a couple of times, until the filament comes out perfectly clean. re-assemble your bowden tube and reload the material. This worked a treat for me. next time this happens i will take photos for reference. Bob

Jet, I sent you an email, with a couple of pics which should help with your settings. Bob

Joe, As a fellow modelmaker/propmaker who has been working in the Uk film industry for 15 years, I can say yes! If you buy a UM2 you will do a lot less tinkering than the UM original (I have both). You will spend time tinkering and tuning but not that much, of course it's a learning curve and don't expect miracles to start with but these machines are bloody good. Printing at 0.02 is really not necessary. 0.06-0.08mm is fine enough. PLA is not as good as Hips to sand, it gets a bit 'chewy' went it get hot, but you can sand it and fill it. I usually prime it with plastic primer (dusted on to begin with) but then I use car body filler. and I have got some really nice results. You can stick PLA with Dichloromethane (dichlo) and it bonds as well as styrene. As for holes in models, Cura is pretty good a t fixing stuff, It is a free download so give it a whirl. Bob

Ian, I have modded the file to make it easier to print and use less support. I will put the file on Youimagine later today.

Universal Spool Holder for the UM2

I'm based near London and I have used this company: http://www.hamaracrylic.co.uk/ They can laser cut and supply acrylic etc. I'm not going to say they are cheap, but they are pretty reliable.

Faberdashery are indeed very good and Colorfabb PLA/PHA is very good too. Colorfabb's shipping is reasonable too, and is very prompt. I spoke to one of the Faberdashery employees at the 3d print show in London and mentioned how much I liked their PLA but found the lack of spools infuriating. The nice lady said that they should have some good news on that front soon....

Marco, A point to remember is that, there will always be a vocal minority on the internet, People will complain loudly (and rightly) if something doesn't live up to their expectations! People who are happy are usually to busy enjoying their new toy to shout about it. I am one of the latter, I have had my UM2 for 3 days and it is pretty bloody awesome. Bob

I got hold of an Ultimaker 2 yesterday, and I would echo Illuminarti's comments. One thing I found worrying was when I aborted a print on the first layer, and hit the home button, this of course took the print head back to 0,0 in X & Y but did not move in Z. so the nozzle missed the metal clip that holds the glass down by millimeters. Of course from now on I will always lower the bed first! It would be great if when you abort a print the bed would lower by 5mm or so. I am really impressed by the printer, i have not encountered any of the problems that some other users have found. Although my Ultimaker Original prints slightly better at the moment, but I am sure the UM2 will catch up as I get used to it.

Hey Jet, Rob here, I'm the sometime Propshop employee and Art dept modelmaker who popped by to say hello on Friday. I hope your voice lasted the weekend! Enjoy the Forums and your new toy!

Now then, Is it just me or are the time estimates on the latest Cura a bit broken? 9 times out of 10 Cura estimates the time the print will take to be 45 minutes. My experience tells me that a print that will use 16 meters of filament will take a little longer! Cheers Bob. PS using a Mac on 10.8

Hello and Welcome, I believe Ultimaker 2 will be shipping from the 21/10/2013. On a pro rata basis.

Alternatively get some hot water (over 60-70 deg c) place part in it for a few seconds, remove (very carefully so not to burn oneself) and you will have a nice pliable print. I have found that prints do have a memory, to a point, and will try to go back to their original form.

Same here, when I installed the new pulleys a couple of months ago. I have printed 100+ hours since with no problems.

I have had a similar noise from short belts (before changing to direct drive). Check the alignment of the pulleys on your stepper motors to the pulleys on the 8mm shafts. I think I adjusted the pulleys on the steppers and that cured my 'ticking' noises.

A couple of things to try here: First preheat to 210 deg. then try turning the gear wheel on the extruder by hand. if you cannot then it might mean that your nozzle is blocked. there are guides in the wiki to solve blocked nozzles. also check the connection from the extruder motor to the electronics underneath the UM

Thanks Nick Bob

Nick, I don't suppose you feel like sharing the files do you? pretty please Bob

Nick, that looks like a sweet set up. I am tempted to swap over to the E3D hotend, Out of interest which X & Y sliding blocks are you using? Cheers Bob

I was having the same sort of problems and after much head scratching solved this myself yesterday! Luckily for me I have access to a lathe and Delrin. 2 mins later problem solved!

I bought isopropyl alcohol from Amazon! (here in the UK) It is amazing what you can buy through that company.