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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. In the expert settings you can raise the "infill overlap %". This wil make the infill connect better with the perimeter loops. Default it is set to 15%. I normally use 20% but you could use a lot more like 50%. Just give it a try. If this does not solve your problem you probably have more serious problems like underextrusion or belts that are not tensioned properly.
  2. Yes, it doesn't work with a stock V2 hot-end. I tried, it's too high. Nick promised to change his design and post a new version for the stock hot-end the next few days.
  3. I bolted a 1 kg steel plate to the underside of my Z-platform (the wooden). The ringing is less but has not gone away completely. But it has another advantage: because the wood is under constant pressure now, I don't need to do as much bed-leveling as before, and the Z-height stays more constant, especially during a long print.
  4. I'm getting between 4.8mm and 4.9mm on a 5mm hole. I compensate this with 0.1mm more radius in my openscad designs and everything is well .
  5. Also, apart from tightning the grubscrews really well, I always put a drop of Loctite 243 on them so they stay put. Loctite 243 can be undone so now worries if you need to disassemble.
  6. A slightly higher (thicker) horsshoe helps a lot. I use this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 on BOTH sides of the bowden tube. The bowden hasn't crept up anymore since this is installed. Francis
  7. Hi Mich, The tape does not belong there. It is to indicate which end of the bowden goes where and should be removed. I had great succes with this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 and easy to try.
  8. Would love to test also. I would qualify as intermediate :-)
  9. I'd like a full set (10x8, 2x5) also. Will send you details. Thanks.
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