Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. The hollow shaft is no problem. The one I use has one as well.
  2. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Nema8-hollow-shaft-stepper-motor-20HB4003-2-phase-4-wire-nema-8-stepper-motor-40mm-3050201D/32276354580.html I found one at aliexpress.com Takes up to 3 weeks, but I like to order some parts there.
  3. I changed to the 0,5mm nozzle and rised the current of the stepper to 0,75A. Retraction is now 5mm/s, 0,5mm. That works very good. But I need to rework the airbrush nozzles. The filament will not come out straight. Direct after extrution the filament bends upwards. This happens with the 0,3mm nozzle as well as with the 0,5mm one.
  4. Yes I did. Then there is no extrusion problem, but the stringing :wink: I will try it with more current this evening. I read that you glued the parts together. If you are interested, I can send you a STP File of my assy. I use M2 Setscrews to fix the parts at the 3mm rod. Into the worm gear i cut a M3 thread and drilled an adaptor for the stepper shaft. This has a M2 setscrew as well an a M3 thread, so i can screw the worm gear with a M3 bolt into the adapter at the stepper shaft.
  5. Thanks! My Printhead is made of PLA HT from Multec, so it withstands 90°C max. I will try to rise the current near to the max. of 0,8A (I use the same stepper motor) and use a small fan then. One point I could not fix yet: I get stringing with your retraction settings: 0,4mm 5mm/s If i rise the settings the extrusion starts to late after reaching next extrusion point. Note: I use a 0,3mm nozzle at my merlin hotend.
  6. I use this hack and it works pretty good so far. Did you measured the voltage of your extruder stepper? My settings: 220mV, so the current is 0,55A I think the voltage could be a bit higher, but then the stepper gets pretty hot.
  7. The Pin for the thermocouple board is defined as pin 3. Thats the only change I have done at the pins definition. In every config the thermistors and the thermocouple or both thermistors read room temp.
  8. I compared the file I generated with the file from the marlin builder. There are no differences that could have an effect. Does nobody else have an idea?
  9. Problem gelöst! Es war schlicht Unwissenheit! Das Ramps, was ich gekauft habe war standardmäßig auf allen Steppertreibern 1-1-1 gepint. Bei einem Ultimaker muss der Z-Achsenstepper auf 1-1-0 gepint werden um auf die 8 Mikrosteps zu kommen! Somit fuhr die Z-Achse bei mir immer nur die halbe Höhe herunter und das Hotend schob zu viel extrudiertes Material vor sich her. Das erklärt dann das Wellenmuster.
  10. The weird thing is, that the thermocouple works if i do not define a second temp. sensor (the one for the heatbed) in the marlin firmware. If i only use the thermocouple everything works fine. Even if i use for hotend and heatbed a thermistor and do not use the thermocouple, it works. But i really want to use my thermocouple ;-)
  11. #define BED_MINTEMP 5 #define BED_MAXTEMP 150 These are the values in my config. The failure occurs immediately. Tomorrow I will check it by comparing the files with winmerge. EDIT: Yes the measured and displayed temps are in the range above.
  12. Hello, I have a Problem with my DIY UMO. I installed a Thermocouple for the Hotend, like Ultimaker does as well. It Works just fine if i define everything like it is told in this wiki article: http://reprap.org/wiki/ExtThermoCouple_1.0 But i now installed a heated bed with a Thermistor. When i declare it in my marlin fimware its not working. Both are measuring the temp. correct. (tested it with a lighter). But Cura does not allow to heat up the Hotend. #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 I always
  13. Ich hab mir bei dasfilament.de 2 Proben bestellt um das Material ausschliessen zu können. Melde mich danach mal mit Erkenntnissen.
  14. die Druckerzeugnisse ändern sich nicht wirklich bei unterschiedlichen Temperaturen. Bisher habe ich pla bei 200, 205 und 210 Grad mit ziemlich gleichen Ergebnissen gedruckt. Nozzle ist eine 0,3mm Version Jetzt wo du das Material ansprichst: das ist gute 2 Jahre alt und bei Zimmertemperatur ohne Schutz gelagert. Lieferant: reprapworld.com Mein 3D Druckerprojekt war zwischenzeitlich etwas eingeschlafen.
  • Create New...