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Everything posted by valcrow

  1. I know there's a lot of properties and factors involved, but in your mind, what is the main factors that would make you choose GFPA6 over GFPP or vice versa?
  2. Have you tried the various support materials offered by Ultimaker on your materials? Does PVA or Breakaway supports work?
  3. Hi! Thanks for doing the AMA! There's a lot of composit materials coming out on the market now with CF being the most popular for strength, what specific advantages does Glass fiber have over CF? Thanks!
  4. 2 part, smooth-on type casting urethane will fit the bill. Very liquidy when mixed, like maple syrup (not that fake corn syrup stuff) Hardens in about 10 minutes and turns white after hardening.
  5. You can open up the speed settings by clicking on the little gear icon and adding the expert speeds. Set them all to the same if you like then. Looks quite nice though!
  6. It sounds like printing too cold. 185 is pretty cold for PLA unless you are printing really slow/low volume. If it's too cold and you're trying to push too much through that could explain the constant grinding. Try running at 210 or even 220 and see if its better for you.
  7. You should post a picture of the results of your atomic pull (the filament strands). That can usually give us enough info to determine if it's a PTFE problem. If it is the case that you do need to take it apart, I suggest getting a TFM coupler (the new UM2+ couplers) as they last a heck of a lot longer than the PTFE ones the UM2 came with. Also consider upgrading to n olsson block so you can change nozzles easy.
  8. Are you using the half spool of PVA? I think it might be caused by having the 2 materials too close to each other, try moving them physically as far away on the spool holder as possible then try to hit continue again.
  9. If you need a bit more rigid than Nylon but just as strong and heat resistant UM Polycarb works wonderfully. IMO it prints easier than Nylon (unless you're doing PVA supports) And for medium to small objects you can print PC on straight clean glass. Adhesion sheets for larger prints.
  10. There is an option, "support horizontal expansion" which can expand the little small areas for more reliable stickage. It may generate a lot of useless supports in your case though since this is a pretty big print, but try it out and see if it helps you. Triangle support is generally more stable I find than Zig Zag if you have it falling over all the time. Regardless it looks like a pretty sweet print even with the small fail.
  11. ABS is kinda rough. I would recommend using Ultimaker ABS (it doesn't warp and sticks onto glass) You need a small layer of glue not to help it stick, but to help it UN-STICK so it doesn't chip your glass plate upon removal of your part. Most other ABS I've tested have similar results as you describe. It works up till a certain point and then warps away if the part is of any decent size. Only a full enclosure will help with this type of ABS or you'll have to resort to kapton + abs slurry and that's kinda messy and not fun. Make sure your fans are off. Ultimaker ABS for some reason sticks really well and doesn't warp that much in an open environment. Probably some voodoo magic in it.
  12. Those were my thoughts too gr5. We're in contact with mfiset over e-mail. Looks like manual level did the trick for anyone out there with the same issue.
  13. Oh that's a bit close. I usually go about 0.23 and often that's too close. Anything .15 and under will end up welding itself to the print unless it's ABS or something that doesn't like to stick to itself.
  14. You just have to reverse the loading process. Unlatch the tension thing, (the black thing that clips onto the knurled bolt). -Heat the temperature to 100C (assuming PLA, hotter if you need to pull too hard) -And then pull the filament from the back. -And that's it!
  15. What was your Z-distance between your support interface and your object?
  16. Don't use the sheets with PLA or ABS, I've tried most of the materials and it works best for Nylon and polycarbonate. If you level just a touch further than normal, you part should stick very well, but it should be removable without destroying the sheet with a palette knife or similar. PLA/ABS and sometimes CPE will bond so well onto the sheet that you're almost guarenteed to rip it off and you'll have to sand it off the bottom of your part and replace the label. As for removing the sheet it's best to soak in water for a bit, and then start at a corner and peel it under water. You should be able to get most of the sheet and adhesive off like that unless you have holes all over your sheet. If you have leftover adhesion, scrape the glue underwater with a palette knife and it should do the trick. When applying the sheets, always use a bit of water. it makes it MUCH easier with less bubble mess.
  17. I would drop "initial layer thickness" to whatever your layer height is. Just be sure to level correctly and it'll get rid of the elephants foot at the base. I find, if the difference is too great between your infill speeds and exterior wall speeds, you get inconsistent walls. I would drop speeds to the following: infill - 40 outer shell - 30 inner shell - 35 If you have lots of time to kill and are just going purely for quality, make everything 35. You can probably increase your layer height a bit to compensate. Lastly, white is not a good colour for this kinda thing. White has always been the most inconsistent colour, making z-striations the most visible.
  18. Are there teeth marks on the filament? There should be some diamond shapes pressed into the filament from the feeder gear wheel. The most common problem I see with new UMO users is they don't latch the feeder properly causing no tension to be put onto the filament. Check this part of the video to see how the latch is suppose to be locked. This is an older UMO so it will look different than a UMO+ but the concept is the same. You need to squeeze the two parts together and then drop the black dangly latch down to lock it in place. This may seem obvious to seasoned users but I've seen a bunch of people not do this correctly causing problems right from the get go.
  19. It looks like you need to turn on "Enable support interface" This will create a more filled layer on top of your support so the support has better, more reliable contact with your part. For PLA, I usually do around a 0.2mm gap between the support interface layer and the object. If your contact points are small, you can reduce this to 0.12 or so, but anymore usually makes it quite difficult to remove the supports afterwards. For printing reliability I would err on the side of too close than too far away. Most of your supported surfaces are curved so. Zig zag looks ok for this model to me!
  20. I find the fans really affect layer bonding for different materials. For instance, for carbonfiber nylon, if the fans are on, it visually looks OK, but it breaks into individual layers like it was made of stacks of paper if you try and flex it. But once you turn the fans off the whole thing becomes super strong. If you're running with the fan on check that it's not set to 100%. Also we recently changed the print settings to what Ultimaker suggests those settings may work a bit better too. I'm not sure what material to use for supports for polycarb, I haven't tried any combos yet.
  21. I haven't tried PVA supports with TPU, but I have tried TPU95A + ABS and it works pretty great.
  22. Hi, We usually have our settings posted up on each material on our website, so if you're not sure you can always check there. https://shop3d.ca/product/ultimaker-pc/ They may differ a little bit from what UM recommends. In the case of PC its: Print bed: 100-110 C Nozzle temp: 250-260 C Fan: 0% (Your print will fail if not set to 0) Bed Material: Clean glass But as I mentioned if your part is very large, you may need a way to contain any kind of drafts or use an adhesion sheet. I would try with these settings first however. As for ABS prints failing, are you trying to print with PVA supports? ABS doesn't stick to PVA so it's difficult to use dual extrusion in this instance. If you require a strong material that is also high temp with PVA supports, Nylon is the way to go. Nylon sticks to PVA even better than PLA so you will get much better results when using dual/support mode.
  23. Yup you can do it. We've had pretty good success printing UM:PC on the UM3. For large parts you may need an adhesion sheet if you find it's peeling off. Otherwise clean glass with no fans at 260C will work. Since you're in Canada send us a email if you're having trouble.
  24. This sounds like TFM death to me. Usually, if it pushes through ok, but snaps or really stretches out on an atomic pull there's a cavity in the TFM. Check that your back fan is running when your nozzle is at 100+ degrees. Not the side ones, the one blowing forward through the heatsink. If this guy isn't running it will also cause the issues you're seeing.
  25. Also if your nozzle is dirty, you will experience more stringing.
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