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valcrow

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Everything posted by valcrow

  1. General rule for me: -Layer height should not exceed 2/3 the nozzle size. (I usually keep it under 1/2) -If you use 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2 is fine, but 0.3 will start to give you bad layer bonding depending on material. I haven't discovered a minimum yet, I've used 0.8mm nozzles to print at 0.09 layer height with no ill effects. So I can still cut down time and have a nice surface finish. Flow should be dependent on your material rather than your nozzle size. The software will calculate the proper extrusion volume by changing your nozzle size appropriately. For speed, you can go fast with the medium nozzles, 0.4 and 0.6, but you have to increase your temperature proportionally to your speed. For 0.25 and 0.8 I would slow it down for different reasons. 0.25 is a small hole, you physically can't squeeze that much material through so if you go too fast it will grind. 0.8 is large so you either need high temperatures to keep the filament hot while extruding a large amount or you have to slow it down. You'll get a feel for it! but that's my 2 cents.
  2. Oh! interesting! Didn't know each side was different. I just assumed that warning was there because the sticker could cause a slight bulge being wedged on the heated bed. Almost all my stickers on the bed are gone. :/
  3. Ok, so we used the sheets a bit more, and while it was REALLY awesome for warping Nylon, it's not so good for Polycarb, PLA, or basically anything that sticks somewhat well to glass. It just ends up as a permanent fixture to the print... If you wanted something to stick well, this would be the tool to use, but a little TOO well for some applications. If it sticks too well, it comes off with your print, and the adhesive stays on the glass which then needs to be soaked in water for a little while until you can scrape it off. Then you need to scrape it off your print as well.
  4. If you get a nice impression of your nozzle it's usually not the TFM, check the nozzle next. I've had some nozzles that just don't print well because there is buildup at the tip, it cleans well and everything so I would try with another nozzle if you have an olsson block. If problem persists then it's not the nozzle. Also a drill bit passed through the TFM doesn't really reveal the problem because it's usually the cavity that causes the issue. The cavity 'catches' molten plastic, and it cools which ceases the whole system. So usually it'll break down when there's any sort of retraction. Here are a few spent TFM's cut in half. A drillbit or filament will pass through that just fine. http://www.redicubricks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_20160303_162640-1024x576.jpg
  5. If you've never changed out the PTFE and your machine is nearing or over 1000 print hours, my best guess would be that. You will usually be able to push filament through no problem, but you will have trouble pulling filament out at 90C without breaking the filament strand. In terms of inspecting the PTFE, you can post a picture of your atomic pull and we can usually tell the state that it's in if everything else is working. Depending on when you purchased your machine you might have an extra PTFE in the bag of stuff.. I would rummage through your box of parts to see if you have an extra and swap it out. If you don't, source a TFM coupler (the ones used in the 2+) and they will last you a very long time compared to the PTFEs.
  6. How many print hours do you have on it and have you changed out your PTFE part lately? (the white piece between the spring and nozzle) Have you done an atomic pull? Were you successful? As in you got an impression of your interior nozzle shape?
  7. Looks fine to me! I leave mine on all the time too, no ill effects so far. Mine have like 2x the amount of time it's on vs. printing. Something like 5k hours on, 2.5k printing.
  8. Well, if in doubt you can always post a picture, I or someone here would likely be able to catch any parts that are 'off'.
  9. That would be a strange thing to do. Considering a UM2 upgraded with the extrusion kit effectively makes it UM2+, not really any lesser than a UM2 upgraded to +. So if someone DID do that, rest assured you'd have ended up with a UM2+ either way. Now if you really wanted to know for sure, you can always check the serial number sticker on the bottom of your machine and on the box and cross reference them somehow. Either way, I would probably not trade in a perfectly good 2+ for a dual 2, unless it happened to be Foehnsturm's UM. You're just asking for reliability issues, and reliability is where UM2's really shine.
  10. Ohhh Kay, so I might have spoken too soon, but I tried straight uncarbonfibered nylon and it destroyed part of the sheet that it was printed on. I guess that's kind of a good and bad thing. I had trouble with this nylon not sticking to anything before... It was basically a 1 line sqiggle with a 2 line brim, so not much surface area and it still stuck like it was crazy glued on. The good news is that there was no warping. The bad news is that there was absolutely no way to save the sheet. Now I wonder if the warping of the previous print actually helped save the sheet to some degree... will test more.
  11. I have a general feeling that 25 sheets will last you a LONG time. They certainly aren't just a 1 shot deal. By then maybe they will offer them as separate packs. I think the idea for this is that the people looking to use the Engineering materials like PC and Nylon have everything they need. It's also a pretty good deal all around. You get two nozzles, two TFMs which is around 70 bucks already. (canadian) And 25 sheets + door for like 50 more dollars. @Dim3nsioneer Sure thing, will keep you updated!
  12. I have tried the sheets! It's quite awesome so far. I probably should have read the instructions because I didn't use water... I also have a ton of air bubbles. I was having trouble getting Nylon Carbon fiber to stick to the bed surface, I tried everything including hairspray, gluestick, full enclosure and each time it would warp enough to pull itself off of the bed and cause the whole print to fail. With the sheets, it stick on well. The part warped a bit (maybe 1/3 of what it was warping on glass + glue) but the sheet held on and I was able to complete and remove the print without damaging the sheet. I printed the same part in the same area and it looks like it's got some longevity as I didn't damage the sheet. It has a good balance of hold vs. release properties. Overall quite impressed, will test with more of the annoying warpy materials. I'm quite happy it comes with a door + nozzles. But I agree the option to buy it separately should be there.
  13. Thanks for the plug you are fast! Valcrow from shop3d.ca here. We carry most of the parts, not all of them are listed on our site since it's just too many to list. However if you're in need for something specific let us know and we'll likely be able to get it decently quickly if it's not already in stock. I have to check tomorrow if we have a UMO pt100/heater cartridge in stock. We have most um2 parts and 'some' UMO+ parts on hand. Send sales (at) shop3d.ca with the parts you'd like and we'll help you out!
  14. Whoa, that's cool! What do you do with them? fishing (I mean obviously from the video). But do you spear one and then bag em then go catch another? Or it's like a 1 fish/swim type thing? Is it for sport/work/hobby? Just curious why you need carbon fiber for this purpose? Wouldn't some other filament work? like polycarb? Nylon tends to absorb water, is that not a worry? I appear to have a lot of questions
  15. Great discovery... I presume you can only get those adhesive sheets with the advance printing kit though? Having had much success with some of my ambitious large prints (actually they all are) using XT-CF20 I didn't think it was worth trying other filaments but this is looking very promising with it's added strength and (possible) extended durability... glad I've tried it. Do you think some kind of tape could be as good as your adhesive sheets? P.S. I do rather like your knives by the way... You could maybe try blue tape + alcohol? I've never had Blue tape + alcohol not stick. The only problem is the tape itself may lift but will keep the part on the bed most of the time. I have tried XT_CF20 numerous times and while it looks great and feels great, the strength feels worse than regular PLA. The layer bonding is REALLY terrible unless you print really slow and hot. This italy stuff is REALLY strong in comparison I tried to break a few pieces and had a hard time. I'll try out the glass fiber tomorrow now that I know the CF works.
  16. You're quite ambitious trying such a large part. Anyways, today, Success!! Finally able to print without a super warped print. Just slightly warped at the edges maybe 0.8mm at the extreme. (whereas the earliest test was over 1.4mm lift. The magic solution seems to be the sheets that come with the advance printing kit from Ultimaker. It's a soft-ish sheet that you stick onto the glass. This stuff held on nicely to the print while printing and released without destroying itself after (so it's not a 1 use trick). Interestingly, bed temperature was set to 0. (room temp)
  17. This looks like a filament thing to me. Old, bad quality or difficult colours seem to cause this. What brand are you using?
  18. Funny, I just started testing this today as well! Most of your observations are pretty much same as mine with the exception of the temperature and flow. Mine is flowing perfectly fine at normal 100% 240C-250C. I've been able to print my knife handle with good layer bonding and like you said, pretty much indestructible stuff and really awesome finish. Similar to Colorfabb's CF, but less matte. I printed at 90 microns and it was smooth with almost no visible layer lines. The bottom layer looked like a carbon weave since it was smooth (from the glass) and weave like due to the parallel lines of the first layer. I had similar warping issues, I tested printing on bare glass from 20C, 60C, 100C with only minor success. (major warping each time). I tried gluestick with not much more success. Will try hairspray and other tactics soon as well. Good to see other people testing as well I also have the glass fiber and wood from them so I'll test those too.
  19. Just set the flow to like 50%, you will get a sponge like texture that is rather fragile and trippy looking.
  20. It's hard to answer if it's worth it for you since like you said, you could buy a printer for that price. However I can tell you the advantages having used a UMO for a while and then a UMO+ for a short while before going to UM2. The UM2 and UMO+ has the same platform so the user experience is pretty much the same except that the UM2 homes on the bottom and the UMO, the top. The pros: -MUCH more hands off. If you're printing PLA, it will stick when hot and let go when cold. Which allows you to setup prints back to back without doing anything to the bed. Super convenient, I can't over state this after mucking around with blue tape. -Makes your bottoms flatter and smoother. If you ever combine prints or halve them, a heated bed will make the seam MUCH smaller since the edges will be less warped and surface flatter. -Glass is very flat. Which makes it easier to level. -3 point leveling instead of 4 point via thumb screws. a HUUUGGEE improvement over the UMO leveling. And no accidental crushing of your hex driver while trying to level as it prints. -Much more solid flatform than the UMO -new z-screw -Heated bed expands your material options. Basically it makes the whole z-stage into a UM2 z-stage. which is very handy and nice. I think if you're looking to not mess with your tape anymore, a heated glass bed is the way to go. The ONLY thing that glass is not as good for is very small footprint tall prints. Tape + alcohol is still the best option for that. And you can still do that by applying tape to the glass.
  21. This kinda sounds like one of your pullies is loose (the one that controls left/right) You should try and tighten all of the set screws on the pullies that control the left/right motion.
  22. Version 1.0

    1,921 downloads

    Need a new sturdy custom camping knife? Why not save a bunch of money by buying raw blades, and customizing it with your own handles. It's cheaper, custom fit to your hands and you get to 3D print things.
  23. Are you sure your mesh is totally solid? I would specifically check the verticies around the hole to see if they are welded to the corresponding side verts. Overlapping, double or unwelded verts sometimes cause funky effects like these including solid fill layers for no apparent reason. In your layer view in Cura, does it show this error? If you scale up your object as large as possible, does this error still occur (in your layer view)?
  24. Ah I see. Well if anyone can refurb them properly it's Fbrc8 I would say there is a slight quality difference between the 2 and the 2+. It doesn't come from the nozzle size so much as the fact that feeder is stronger and more reliable at extruding a more exact amount. More reliable extrusion results in better prints. Usually this is the difference between a really well closed in top layer and one with small gaps. The quality of the side walls is not noticable between the + and non +. The smaller nozzle is not as big of a deal as the bigger nozzles actually. But having the OPTION to change them cannot be underestimated. You can halve the time of a print by using a larger nozzle, while keeping the layer height the same so the quality is almost indistinguishable. When you're talking about hours, this is a big deal. 20 hrs to 10 hours is a huge difference. The small nozzles are good for really detailed small things. You can even get some 1.5mm ones. But I have to say I don't use them that often. Labern here is the master of small prints so he can chime in more on those. If you want to save some money, there isn't a HUGE difference between the + and the non+ in terms of sheer output quality. I would say again that you're sacrificing a bit of reliability and a lot of versatility. The + is also much better at the higher temperature engineering materials (Nylon, polycarbonate, TPU, CPE+) One thing you should consider getting immediately if you decide on a non+ is the TFM coupler that comes standard with the UM2+. It's probably the single most important part. (http://shop3d.ca/product/ultimaker-tfm-coupler-and-tfm-isolator-bundle/) Ask fbrc8 if they have one to sell you if you do get it from them. Otherwise we carry them.
  25. Hi fellow Canadian! If you're getting it new, there isn't any place that sells the UM2:EXT non-plus in Canada that I'm aware of, we've switched to the plus version only for a while now. The non-plus was already a great machine, but the + upgrades adds a lot of reliability and quality of life refinements onto the non-plus that IMO is a MUST if you are a heavy user. Basically all the parts that were causing minor annoyances and some major annoyances (like the feeder) have been addressed: Here are some of the things that are upgraded from the + and non +. -Hot end housing now glass filled (more durable) -Fan shroud is larger to accompany olsson block -olsson block now pre-installed including 4x nozzles sizes. -new geared feeder with manual latch (much more reliable) -TFM coupler update (the part that requires the most maintenance now lasts 3-5x as long if not longer (like 2000 hours)) -Better heater cartridge, & sensor Even things like better bed clips. So yeah all of those things, you will eventually want to upgrade on the UM:EXT non-plus anyways eventually so it's good to get it all factory installed and tested all in one.
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