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rob

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  1. I noticed that there is no cooling solution for the Ultimaker Original+ Electronics, is it not required at all for the stepper drivers? I noticed that the plywood panel in the bottom of the Ultimaker getting quite warm during a print which doesn't happen on my Rev 4 Ultimaker Original (probably due to the cooling). Is there any benefit to adding cooling?
  2. Yep, they were inserted into the old wooden z stage so you could attach the acrylic bed to it by threading screws into the holes. I guess Ultimaker didn't want to pay thousands to redesign the mould just to remove unneeded parts, would be useful to mention this though. I've been building an UMO+ kit tonight and have to say there are far more missing screws and nuts compared to my Rev 4 UMO I built back in May 2013. It's really annoying as some stuff like the z stepper needs 10mm bolts as the motor is only threaded about 5mm deep.
  3. It's very close on my pinter as well but I've just lived with it as it hasn't seemed to cause any issues yet. Given that the tab is useless I'd be tempted to follow IRobertI suggestion of just hacking it off with a file.
  4. You'll need a proximity sensor rather than an inductive one but it should still be possible, I, playing around with one at the moment, trying to get my head around the various parameters in the firmware at the moment.
  5. This was the first thing I tried when I messed up my start.gcode but it doesn't actually seem to restore the default start/end gcode.
  6. Just because I had a nightmare trying to restore mine even after reinstalling these might help someone: Cura 14.09 - Original Ultimaker with Official Heated Bed Kit start.gcode ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... end.gcode ;End GCode M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning ;{profile_string}
  7. As others have said, once the bed cools then the prints will pop off with nearly zero force. I clean mine with dish soap (washing up liquid) and hot water then dry it with a clean hand towel, I don't use anything extra for adhesion when printing win PLA.
  8. I did amplify it so it was easier to hear, It's not actually that loud in reality but as I sit next to my Ultimaker at my desk it is audible. It's not really a problem because I just powercycle the machine to get rid of it.
  9. Not essential but I printed one of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:39983 It helps when priming the nozzle as you don't have to turn the grear.
  10. You can see why going down the DIY route might put some people off, yes it's probably going to be cheaper but you do need to be prapared to do your research and able to troubleshoot when things go wrong. I do think the official Ultimaker kit is good value considering the quality of the components they supply. Remember, it's not juse a heated bed you're getting, it includes a whole new aluminium Z stage (identical to the UM2), new Z stepper with built in leadscrew, hefty 24V power supply, new power supply board, and a nicely finished glass plate. I was really happy printing on blue tape and the acrylic bed but wanted a heated bed to prevent warping on larger prints. I wouldn't go back now, the bottom layer is so much nicer now and prints litrally pop off the bed once it's cooled down, no more scraping or soaking in alcohol to remove the tape.
  11. The glass plate is typically clipped onto the top of the heated bed. This allows you to take the glass off to remove prints or clean the bed. The official ultimaker heated bed is some sort of aluminium plate with the heating element etched onto one side but with RepRap type printers you'll typically see just a PCB with a glass plate strapped to the top.
  12. I've upgraded to a heated bed now but when I was using tape I would try and lift the tape off the bed with the print (for large prints) and then soak the bottom layer in isopropyl alcohol for a few minutes. After that it peels away quite easily with no marks.
  13. Same here, I have it on my desk and can hear the clicking from the new power supply board. If anyone's curious, this is what it sounds like:
  14. Not sure, no instructions to explain it's usage but I assume it's for some sort of bed adhesion. I've found cleaning glass with washing up liquid (dish soap) and warm water and then printing with the bed at 65/70C produces great adhesion with PLA. I noticed that the hole in the back of the plate which didn't appear to do anything. Flipping it would place it in the correct position for the limit switch as you say but the cable grip ends up on the right meaning you would have to clamp the middle of the cable rather than the sleeving at the end. I think there was a cockup somewhere in the ordering/design process and UM just decided to ship them as they are with no lower limit switch mechanism. Not caaused me any problems so far but it would be nice for UM to let us know what happened here. I though that to begin with but the wood actually rests on top of the 24V power connector housing causing a gap between the plastic standoffs and the wood. I was expecting it to work like the fan cover on the UM electronics but after further inspection it rests on the power connector housing with a gap.
  15. I never saw an answer posted, is the lower Z switch just redundant now?
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