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Everything posted by kolia

  1. +1 pour faire sans raft! Par contre concernant la vitesse je suis plus circonspect... sur une petite pièce avec des trous pour des vis, à 100mm/s ça sera surement compliqué mais pour énormément de pièces pas de souci (et plus elles sont grosses mieux ça va, 100mm/s c'est parfait). J'imprime avec des layers de 0.15 et à 100mm/s ces jours et le rendu est très très bien. Par contre tu devras augmenter la température. On est souvent obsédé par la qualité au debut, mais n'oublie pas de te faire plaisir et d'imprimer autre chose que des petites pièces ou des trucs de calibration... Et quand tu passes dans les plus gros morceaux, 100mm/s au lieu de 50 mm/s c une petite perte de détail mais un gain de plusieurs HEURES Bref, tout ce couplet juste pour dire que tu peux parfaitement imprimer à 100mm/s Et ne sois pas timide, passe en full settings tout de suite! C'est plein d'infos bulles super qui t'explique déjà le pourquoi du comment!
  2. However he is not talking of a comprehensive manual, but a cheatsheet; the thing that lies on your desk when you start to learn a new thing and just need a quick refresh about a superficial point. You don't always look for a specific answer. And cheatsheets have their fans. I can't see why It wouldn't be compatible with a comprehensive wiki manual.
  3. Perfect example illustrating what I was saying: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/star-wars-at-st-scout-walker I would be crazy if i was the designer (and as a visitor, I want/need to see the full picture!!)
  4. Hi, - I think there should be a tip when uploading a picture, about the optimum size, as everything seems to be cropped/resized. If not, when you put a smaller picture it then looks like crap. - I can't find any way to actually display the full size picture, and it seems that they are cropped and resized, so information is lost. And it will be frustrating, for uploader, and for reader who may not understand the point of a picture that looks shitty because the interesting part has been cropped out. Have a good week-end!
  5. @blecheimer: So, did it fix your problem? I'm about to get a bearing! (I would take a thicker one if I could, but doesnt look very standard).
  6. @Viralata: If your point is just to swap the filament, why do you even launch a print? Assuming you have the Ulticontroller, then just increase the temperature and that's it? For the rest I do exactly the same as you.
  7. Do you mean swapping filament during a same print? I think the feeder has simply not being designed for swapping during a print so I don't know what kind of documentation you can expect... Do you want to do it if you are out of filament? Or to change color in the middle? If it is to change color, I think people doing it pause the print, remove the current filament, feed the new one and prime it manually a little and then resume the print. The trick being to get back to the good position of printing. Seems there is also this plugin: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_ChangeFilamentAtZ Also, it looks like a new option is being tested in the dev version of Marlin, especially to make it easier: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/AeI1B2YWGr8 I'm curious of the feedback if you give it a try!
  8. You should really take a chance here, you would get personalized feedback ! However, I think i'm the same and like some "reference" data to process and try to do by myself. And I agree some FAQ would be cool. Anyway, you can find the page here: http://web.archive.org/web/20130526014427/http://techwall.net/analyzing-your-first-print (in general you can find a lot with the "internet archive waybackmachine" Cheers
  9. In case It can help someone passing by: removing the Arduino from the UM board didn't help. Using older version of Cura neither. After many tries I think I managed to reupload one time the basic Blink Arduino example. In the end I got a new Arduino, and now everything is fine Don't know what was the problem with my original Arduino, but it has to do with uploading code to it.
  10. @calinb : I think my feeder is fine, even holding back the filament manually I can feel how strong it's pulling it up. But you are right that 230C and slow speed is not the best idea and might cause the heat to go up and mess up. Now, for this print I needed low speed, and under 230 it wasn't fluid enough I felt, especially at the beginning of the print. I will reconsider this thanks! @gr5 : You are perfectly right, it was using the latest version of Cura, and now that you mention it, it seems most of my recent problems are linked to it. And I didn't think of it because I didn't expect much core difference between 13.04 and 13.06... and a terrible bias concerning chinese quality made me blame it a bit too fast... shame on me. I'm not sure what you mean by "looking at the gcode view"? The gcode itself or the layers display? Last question: is what you call "skin thickness" what is named "shell thickness" in Cura? The pictured print was done with shell thickness 0.8mm, I will go up. Many thanks,
  11. Hi there! I've been trying to print some earrings (http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Spiral-Earrings/) for a while but it's always failing at some point: PLA stopping to come out. I'm not in front of machine all the time, not sure what happens. So, I came back to another print that I've already done successfully in other color, and here is what I get: I saw the lowest "dotted line" happening and applied some more pressure manually on the filament at that time and it kinda recovered. Then I left. The print finished but it seems the same phenomenon happened a few more times. Is that what happens when there is air bubbles coming out? I'm pretty sure other few prints failed because of that, where the filament totally stopped to come out. Now, I also got some good long prints with this same (chinese-low-cost) PLA... But I waste so much time that if it's a PLA problem, I will just move to another roll and stop getting crazy Thanks! PS: I printed at 230C, 50mm/s, with retraction disabled, hence the terrible stringing I guess.
  12. Ha, thank-you. I was about to post the same question as Graeme. Same process here so far except I was feeding by hand at the beginning instead of starting a print. I will go for extra skirt or brim tonight...
  13. Thanks for the answers, Well, when I plug the machine I see the Arduino appearing in the COM section of the device manager, and it says COM3. It's still possible that it's actually not using this port? gr5 you are right though, it was initially displayed on COM16, but I already couldn't connect, so I manually changed it to COM3 (you can do this from the device manager, and I sometimes set up my system like this for another machine at work where software expects things on fixed hardcoded port numbers) thinking that maybe the COM was too high and not detected. I will try to uninstall the driver and reinstall again...
  14. Hello everybody, I recently switched from using my machine with a Mac computer to a Win7 64bits Professional one. With the Mac one no problem. It happened one time that I couldn't connect to the printer via USB, but after restarting the computer all good. Now, with the one running Win7 64 bits, I've never been able to talk to the machine. When I plug the USB, Windows beeps normally, and I see the Arduino appearing in the device manager. But: - Can't upload firmware (failed on timeout) - Can't run the first wizard: Changing monitoring state from 'Offline' to 'Detecting serial port' Serial port list: [u'COM3'] Connecting to: COM3 Error while connecting to COM3: 'Timeout' Failed to open serial port (AUTO) Changing monitoring state from 'Detecting serial port' to 'Error: Failed to autodetect...' In Cura preferences if I manually set the COM to COM3, then the wizard will fail after trying every possible baudrate. Restarting machine and computer doesn't work neither. Otherwise Cura works fine and I can slice and use the SD card on the Ulticontroller. Same problem with Cura 13.04 or (beta?) 13.06. I guess something is wrong with my system and not directly Cura but can't figure it out. I don't understand what is wrong (and I hate that) and being able to work through the computer would be convenient in some cases... Any clue? Thanks!
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