astrodenny

No problems at all now - it did the trick!

Excellent - thank you!

On the back of the Ultimaker there are two sets of slots for the material feeder (far left corner and toward the center-right). Are there any differences with the location of where the material feeder sits? Thanks

Just tightened the red/yellow wires for the temp sensor and it seems to have gone away- the red screw was a bit loose. I restarted the ultimaker as well.

I tried to re-prepare the print in Cura, then selected print. It preheated, then I received the MaxTemp error again and it will not let me print. I receive Machine state:Error: 0: Extruder switched

I had just finished a print and I've recently been seeing Err:MAXTEMP show up on the ulticontroller. At one point the temperature on Ulticontroller read 386 degrees it then suddenly dropped back down. When viewing the Machine log in Cura, I found this: Changing monitoring state from 'Offline' to 'Detecting serial port' Serial port list: [u'/dev/tty.usbmodem641', '/dev/cu.Bluetooth-PDA-Sync', '/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Modem', '/dev/cu.usbmodem641'] Connecting to: /dev/tty.usbmodem641 Connected to: Serial<id=0x160e5150, open=True>(port='/dev/tty.usbmodem641', baudrate=115200, bytesize=8, parity='N', stopbits=1, timeout=5, xonxoff=False, rtscts=False, dsrdtr=False), starting monitor Changing monitoring state from 'Detecting serial port' to 'Detecting baudrate' Recv: ?nP<HN?Vb!8&6@??9 Recv: H?JqkJ.6?h&?H?X??A><y6M?>~?f?H?8?J3?~?kH?m?7??%)<?+MJO6?F??HH6f?J? Recv: L?K?L?K?IHZ? Recv: g:&hwL* Recv: J?Z??I??I?%?{?x?:&?k^>H?$p|?%?%?%h%?x??^J??+^>IJO.X?^X?J?j??j?aHJP|@_a?&??M/M6CL Recv: I kJ?6 Recv: I?6Xkh?4?&H'?H Recv: I?&HN~ Recv: X?J?z"?Jj?J?J?(jK?? Recv: g Recv: ?Mah$|4 Recv: ?I?j?I? Recv: jo?f?JH??JOq?(-? Recv: ?N?O]?6?+Nm/H?o>FNn~_?~8?^HfNN6a?-HHw&I@~a~?HoBO6Ha&??']h.? Trying baudrate: 250000 Send: M105 Baudrate test retry: 4 Send: M105 Recv: echo:Unknown command: "" Recv: ok Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 1 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 2 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 3 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 4 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 5 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 6 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 7 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 8 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Baudrate test ok: 9 Send: M105 Recv: ok T:386.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0 Send: M999 Changing monitoring state from 'Detecting baudrate' to 'Operational' Send: M105 Send: M105 Recv: Resend: 1 Recv: ok Recv: ok Recv: Error:0 Recv: : Extruder switched off. MAXTEMP triggered ! Changing monitoring state from 'Operational' to 'Error: 0: Extruder switched...' Recv: Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) This seems to happen after the print is complete and before I start a new print. Not sure what this means and was hoping someone could lend some input. Thanks!

Illuminarti, Here is my latest cube after solving the bowden tube problem: Much better! No drifting and it seems the sides are straight/clean. However I'm experiencing a slight bending around the corners. If you look close you'll see that some of the corners are not sharp, but bend slightly. Note that one of the sides was scratched by accident as my print was bonded to the print bed - accidentally scratched it while trying to remove. As for the corners, it seems like when it makes its final turn, something is too tight?

Trimmed the bowden tube by 5mm - the end of the tube was a mess - it definitely had chew marks around it. Removed the front right extruder housing screw and nut - the nut digs into the side of the tube. My extruder housing is pretty tight due to the increased surface thickness from the paint, so just left it off. Since my horseshoe had issues fitting underneath and staying put, I filed it down to reduce the thickness. It is now stable, although I will consider printing the one from Francis (Thanks again!) I printed a calibration cube at 220 and 100 mm/s speed - it stayed in nice and tight! Thanks! Thanks!

Thanks Francis I will check this out as well... Paul - In order to reinsert the tube into the fitting, as well as diagnose the issues, is it generally safe to just remove the print head completely from the axes? I feel like too much pressing down will push the slider blocks or bend the axes? Thanks

Hi Owen, Ok, the taped side is through the material feeder so that seems correct. Ive checked the wiki and it seems as if the tube was inserted correctly into the teflon. Its as far in as it can go. When I think I have a tight fit, it gradually slides upward during a print. I have the horseshoe clamp on (top of extruder head), but this to does not seem to grip well. To keep the tube in place.Im going to disassemble tomorrow and check closer. One thing I immediately noticed was that the nut on the front right side of the extrusion head digs into the tube a bit. Ive rotated this nut so it is flush, but the problem persists. For the 7mm thread can you please elaborate as far as whers to place it? Hi Phanc60844, The tube is definitely damaged. Starting at the extrusion end and upward inside the extrusion head. Ive noticed when inserting the tube, its not a straight shot downward... I have to really get inside and nudge the tube into the teflon. Once inside the teflon, it xoesnt seem like anything is gripping it. Perhaps im not pushing hard enough? Ive only been trying to insert while the head is completely assembled and connected to the axes. As far as trimming, how much could I trim? Any shorter and it seems as if i wont habe enough tube to move around the print area without pulling or tension on the tube itself. Thanks in advance for your responses!

Running into the same problem - Can someone confirm what end the bowden tube should be inserted into the hot end? My tube came with a taped side and I may currently have this backwards (taped side going into the material feeder). Also, I'd like to print this bowden clamp eventually :http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864 but I'm afraid it will pop out again. I'm new to 3d printing, I've got most major mechanical issues figured out, but this tube has been somewhat problematic and preventing me from moving forward printing this right away. For now, I'm going to reinsert the bowden tube and try to figure out a temporary fix to hold it. I also found this and wondering if at least it would make a difference http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Jamming It's ultimately for jamming/clogging, but wondering if it may help keep the tube stable. Currently the extrusion end of my tube seems to be a bit knurled on the outer surface. Regardless it keeps popping out of the hot end during a print. The horseshoe clamp holds the rest of the tube in place, but the popping out of the teflon has been preventing me from finishing a decent print. Can't wait to finally print the new clamp!

Hi Illuminarti, Here are 3 more pics closer to the sides I'll also fix the bowden tonight and reprint. I'll also do a seperate print at 3000 and post that as well afterward. Thanks!

Ok guys here's what I've done: 1) Replaced all pulley grub screws with the new silver ones included in the ultimaker kit. 2) Aligned all pulleys, including the motor pulleys so they are pulling their corresponding belts straight. Tightened them as best as I could and will tighten more! 3) Marked all pulley positions with a black sharpie 4) Discovered the Y motor pulley's grub screw was all the way in, but not very tight! 5) Made sure to check each long belt so that they were parallel with their corresponding axis. 6) Checked short belts and corresponding pulleys for any friction against the frame or end caps.] 7) My slider blocks' c clamps where extremely tight around the ends of each axis - I loosened them slightly 8) Recalibrated the print bed 9) Preheated the PLA to 210-220 10) Tightened belts, but not overtight (refered to video on tight belt "sounds" when pulled back) 11) Lightly oiled the axis 12 ) Reduced print speed to 100 mm/s 13) Tightened short belts (but not overtight) on pulley motors Here is what I got ... after all that I was jumping for joy and things at least looked much better ... until of course, my bowden tube came out! So this is a partial print, but at least you'll hopefully notice the improvements: Let me know your thoughts. As you can see, once the tube popped, it stopped feeding. I paused the print, tried to carefully get the tube back in but it became too much of a project without moving the print head around and misaligning the work. I have to say, the blue horseshoe clamp is frustrating - in my case it does not fit - it's just too tight and thus pops off. Frankly I'm not sure how much of a difference it makesbut I will be looking for a better solution. I saw one post where someone used a zip tie. If there is a printable substitute, I'd like to consider that.I also seem to have lost a motor spacer in the process, which I'm still looking for that dissappeared off my desk (just used the screw and washer for now). Anyways, please take a look at the print and let me know your thoughts.

Hi gr5 - the bottom layer did break off - it started a bit sloppy but then seemed to tighten up as it increased in height. I've gone ahead and tightened the belts, made sure all pulleys are aligned and all belts are parrellel, I also replaced all of the grub screws with the replacements included by Ultimaker. I did it this evening so I will print another and see how it comes out. Printed at "normal setting" via cura Temp 210 .2mm layer thickness 50 mm/s

Acceleration is set for 5000. I'll lower this to 3000 as an experiment and I'm going to make adjustments with pulleys and belt positions now - I'll report back and let you know. Thanks!

Thanks for your response illuminarti, I only ran this as a basic setting in Cura under "Normal" - duplicate outlines was not checked off and I did not have joris enabled. I've tightened my pulleys, but I'm afraid I may have fiddled too many times to the point where I've lost track of what I've tightened and/or changed. I need to revisit this again. I was following the youtube video on belt tension as well as trying to get my belts to be parallel with the axes. I do have the backup grub screws included in the kit, which I'll swap out on all of the pulleys tonight. I'll also use a sharpie and test to see if they shift. I haven't checked to see if belts are running up the sides of other pulleys, but have notices perhaps my X-Y short belts are too close to the walls. My long pulleys don't seem to rub up agains the frame at all. Then again, perhaps my pulleys are too far away from the bearings? I read in another post to get them as close to the bearings as possible. Currently, they're pretty far off from the end caps/innner frame/motor pulleys (5-10mm). I've moved the print head and certainly cannot seem to get the smoothness down that the Ultimaker youtube video shows. This is defiitely an issue for me. I can move the print, but it takes more force than the video. This too is something I need to explore further. My end caps are definitely tight on the axis rods - the slider blocks were also painted - causing the slider block/belt tension levels to not adjust lower - on two of them I have to physically slide them upward/downward with my finger. I'm having a bad feeling paint could be part of it. I'll also experiment with Cura abd reduce the travel speed. I have the ulticontroller, but did not make any changes to my AmaxX or AmaxY settings. Unfortunatley I did not check this before turning the printer off before having to leave the house. I returned, switched the printer on, and my current Amax settings are X=9000 and Y=9000

Measured my compression spring to 11 while using the clamp properly - works fine now! Thanks to all of your responses!

I've printed the official Ultimaker Robot as my first print. Not bad, but not great either. It's my first print in 3D printing as I'm new to the industry but looking for some critiques on what how I should fix. I've followed the wiki, manuals, and forums, but it seems if I change something, I find myself fixing something else. Not ultimaker's fault, just learning. Regardless would love to get input on what I should be doing based on the Ultimaker Robot. Thank you!

I've been trying to print a calibration cube but seem to experience the walls of the cube drifting from left or right. Temp 220 Cura Fill Density 20% Print Speed 50 mm/s Layer Height .2mm wall thickness .8 Calibration Cube http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:68445 On my first run, it seems that the cube would drift toward the left, leaving a stair step formation and not straight walls. I tightened up my X-Y motors and belts by shifting them as far down as possible. There were a few other problems before I canceled the print, but I think I have these squared away such as not sticking properly to the print bed and preheating before starting. Before X-Y Belt Tightening After the belt tightening, my left and right sides have improved signficantly. However, I'm now drifting up and down. My next approach is to tighten all of the x-y long belts and pulleys. However, am I missing something? I've reviewed the calibration wiki but would like to know what am I missing? Thank you

Hi gr5, thank you, I think you just nailed it. The locking pin does slide down, but it's very loose and I negelected to adjust it so it can finally rest within the clamp while pushing forward. The closed/compressed spring was at about 13mm - I will adjust this to 11mm. I reviewed the video several times, but completely missed how far back you should push the slide into the bracket to compress everything together so that the black wheel pushes against the filament. I do feel compression when I close it and I'm sure once I can get it to 11-11.5mm this will help as well.

Thanks Owen! I've gone through this wiki but did not look at the "red cross" axis calibration pic close enough to get the general idea. It just hit me like a ton bricks. :shock:

I noticed that my large gear is slightly loose and there is some play in between the gear and washers.I should tighten this a bit more, but was confused as to how much. I do remember the guide saying not to bolt the mounting plates too tight. I my case they do indeed seem pretty tight. By pushing the hinged clamp forward, it seems to grab. However if I let go it will not push the filament properly.

I appreciate all of the responses - thank you!

I completed my assembly this weekend but having a problem with the material feeder. It seems to finally feed when I stand there and press hard against the clamp so that the filament catches along the drive bolt. Without having to take it apart and redo, what am I missing? The large extruder gear is tight although the directions are vague about keeping it somewhat loose. I've tightened the spring loaded screw as tight as possible (without cracking the plastic). It just seems as if the wheel is not hitting against the filament properly or my drive bolt is not correctly positioned (however I checked this and it seems that the "good part" is against the filament. Thanks!

For the X-Y axes, does anyone have a general idea of what the distance should be for each pulley along the axis? How far away from the sidewalls of the frame, etc? I've checked the wiki, but it was not clear as to precisely how far in/out each pulley should be located along its axis. Thank you in advance.